Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: RPM Will Fluctuate Radically From 500 To 900 After One Minute Of Starting
Jan 9, 2017
Have a 2001 F150 5.4L Super Crew that hates temps below 50 degrees. It has new O2 sensors on the pass side banks, Map and Air charge temp sensors as well as a new IAC motor and a fuel pressure regulator. I've went though all the vacuum lines and replace the cracked dry ones as well a checked for vacuum leaks.
On initial start up, the truck will run and idle fine. after a minute or so, the rpm will fluctuate radically from 500 to 900 RPM. When driving, and you come to a stop sign, the engine will do the same almost seeming to stall. Once the engine reaches full operating temperature, then it runs fine. It always seems to throw P0171 / P0174 when it does this.
We've sprayed all around the intake and cannot find a leak anywhere. I do find it odd that this is a temperature related issue based on the engine operating temperature and the air temp in general. 50 degrees seems to be the turning point from running to just being a hand full until it warms up.
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I have a 01 f150 with the 5.4. when it starts it takes a minute or two to do so.. After I shut it off and try to restart it won't unless I turn the key on and wait. I checked the pressure and when idling its running about 28 soon as the key is turned off it goes to 0. Is my pump bad??
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I am Hearing a series of 5 one second tones about 1 minute after starting. There is no indication on the dash that anything is wrong. There are five tones about one second long. They repeat five times and then stop. The truck appears to be running fine. What is this?
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My 1997 ford f150 4.6 triton runs hot after 1 minute of idling. I changed the two coolant sensors, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. I also went to have a diagnostic done at two different places and nether one could get a reading....
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My 2000 f150 with a 4.6 and just about 200,000 miles stumbled for a minute then died, no engine light came on. It wanted to restart and almost did a couple time's but no go. which leads me to believe it has spark. after about a 30min cool down it started and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Got me home. then the next day same thing died and started after it cooled. Has done this a few time's.
I had put a cheap O'riely fuel pump in it a couple years ago. but i hear if you run your gas tank low on gas a lot (which I do) the pump can get hot and you can toast it. Does the fuel pump is the issue or could i have another problem. And BTW in the past year I have cleaned the EGR port's on the throttle body, put a new egr valve, and fuel filter. And i checked the fuel pressure to had 40...
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I have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
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2003 F150 5.4L Tow Package 140k miles... Had coils, all plugs/wires replaced two years ago due to vibe climbing hills. Now at startup in the morning for a minute or two during idle, the engine vibrates severely then subsides and runs fine rest of day. Doesn't do this every morning. Truck lives in FL. The issue is either temperature related or moisture related. Ford service has the truck presently and attempting to diagnose from an overnight stay. They already 'fixed' the problem last week by replacing #1 plug/wire and resetting the power control module (pcm) but two days later the problem came back. Tech said today that the plugs currently installed are Bosch (any issue with these plugs?)
2003 F150 5.4L 140k miles
2011 Expy 5.4L 44k miles
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On my 1997 XLT 4.0 the Oil Pressure Gauge (yes, I know it is not a real pressure gauge) started fluctuating down and up rapidly. Revving the engine does not seem to affect it. Oddly, it does not do it for the first few seconds after startup, until the idle stabilizes and lowers.
I checked the connection on the wire to the sending sensor, it looks clean.
Main concern - is this just the sending unit failing, or is it the Oil Pump? Do I need a mechanic to test the actual oil pressure?
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2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute. Then the truck wouldn't start at all.
Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.
48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?
I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.
The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.
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The explorer has been having an issue starting after its warmed up. Starts perfectly fine when its cold. but sometimes when I drive, stop for 1-10 minutes, it takes a long time to get her to start up. Typically 30sec to 1 min of cranking. Doesn't seem to have any idle issues or issues running.
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Parked the truck last night and all was fine. Went to start the truck today and let it warm up before hooking up the trailer and it dies withing a minute. Go to start it again and nothing. End up killing batteries. Checked for codes and had a bogus EGR code P0404. Bogus because the tune I run doesn't have the EGR enabled and it is deleted. Still plugged in though.
Hooked up dual battery chargers and sent the boy to pick up fuel and oil filters and oil. It was over due in both areas. Changed both and still no love. So I drag out the laptop and set up my AE to monitor FLP, FLM, IPR, ICP, ICV, Sync.
KOEO
FLP 11.00
FLM 47.0
ICP 0
ICV .24
IPR 14.25 odd right?
Synch 0
Cranking
FLP 9.6
FLM 47.0
ICP 800-1600 varied the longer I cranked
ICV 2.2
IPR 14.24
Synch 1
still no start.
Still no codes.
I then cycled the IPR through AE a few times and turned the key. Damn thing fired right up.
Idling
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 875
ICV 1.4ish
IPR 26.4
Synch 1
I pushed the RPMs up to 2500
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 2200 iirc
ICV 2.24
IPR 42.0ish
Synch 1
Turned the truck off and restarted it a few times. No issues. Turned it off and pulled the positive cables and put the chargers back on it.
So the question is .....Is the IPR sticking on me? I just replaced the HPOP in the spring along with the up pipes. Made sure everything was clean. I actuated the IPR and cleaned it out. Put a new screen on it had zero leaks.
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2003 F150 4.2L V-6. Cranked ok but no start, no check engine light. Plenty spark and could hear fuel pump running. Thought it might be out of fuel but gauge showed over 1/4 tank . Added ~2 Gals fuel anyway, started immediately- no check engine light, no codes set. Thought- bad gauge sending unit. Dropped tank and found plenty of fuel and sending unit checks good. New pump on order but what else could cause the problem?
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Been awhile since I've been on here...guess that's a good thing! Current problem...about a week ago my car stalled after starting it. I had been running errands all day so the engine was warm. Started fine, and then slowly died. My husband replaced the IAC valve. (My truck had this same problem 3 1/2 years ago...it was the IAC).
After replacing this time, it seemed to be fine. However today, again after running errands, the engine stalled slowly after I had started the engine. It seemed like it was trying to stay running, but then just slowly died. I tried starting again and it stayed running, so I was able to get home. It seemed to run fine while driving home. Also, no engine light has come on. Wondering what could be causing this. Don't want to get stranded somewhere.
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I have a squeal that I am pretty sure is coming from somewhere in the A/C compressor/pulley assembly. The trucks squeals on start up (more so when it is cold/damp outside) and then sometimes as I am driving. It doesn't matter if the a/c is on or off. I have also noticed that, while driving, the squeal occurs when I take my foot off the gas. At this point I have replaced the belt, the tensioner and the a/c pulley. I am about to change out the shims to see if that works, but also was wondering if it is possible for the clutch hub to wear down and go bad.
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1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
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My 3rd gear is starting to slip, Is there a chance that it might be a small fix ? if so how or what can I do? 2003 F150 4x4 Automatic ...
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Have a 1999 f150 replaced tranny. truck started out ok for first 10 miles now it putters when starting from stand still can not figure it out.
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I got an 2001 f150 4.2l v6, 5speed. It started running real rough almost like it was hitting on only 3 cylinders I replaced the crank sensor and did a tune up on it along with a new coil pack and now it won't hit a lick the plugs are getting fire, it's getting fuel but, will not start it's not throwing any engine codes. Which leads me to believe it may have a bad ecm.
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My 2002 Ford F-150 4x4 4.6L 5speed strangely has a time delay in starting now. A delay in TIME and not the usually chucking along waiting to start. Or simply I turn the key and a second or two passes before anything starts to happen and it fires right up. Was wondering a few months ago, if my clutch sensor was going out but then it cleared up once I put a new battery in it although at the same time the weather warmed also. Bad connection somewhere, bad ignition switch, or bad clutch position sensor – I could go in each of these directions. Thought maybe the security in the key was doing it too but both keys have the same problem. No codes also.
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2001 F150 ... I'm having trouble with my truck starting after its been running for awhile and then I shut it off.... I have to let it sit for a few min. Before I can crank it again and it will start. I was driving down the road and it just died on me the other day that's what started all this...
The fuel pump and filter was already replaced and I just replaced the cam and crank sensors ... but its still acting up...... I'm not sure where to turn next... No check engine light ..... I have a scan tool and checked for soft codes but nothing.
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After the details below, the truck finally started & I let it idle over an hr. Then turned it off for the night. Just to check, immediately tried restarting. Turned over very fast. Started once almost immediately & ran for 1 - 2 sec, then died. After that it turned over fine, but no attempt to fire - just as it's done in the past.
2000 F150, 5.4 L gas. Couple weeks ago it didn't start. Cranked fine - no sign of starting. It did this once a couple mo before that - wife was shopping & didn't start at the store. By time I got there, it had started. Her "solution" was loosened / retightened the gas cap (no, don't know why).
Never found a problem - didn't do it again for months. Then it did. Figured a code scanner would show something relevant to starting problem. It didn't - as far as codes go.
Couple weeks ago, battery was NOT dead by any means, but slightly weak (hadn't driven for couple weeks). I charged the battery (< 1 yr old). Seemed to take charge OK - didn't take long. But, after charging, volts at the battery = 12.8v.
Is it possible that's too low for these trucks & cause starting problem? It turned over quite fast - still no sign of firing. Gas isn't old. New Autolite spark plugs. Clean air filter.
I decided then to use the "jump start" setting on my charger (2 weeks ago) - still didn't fire & made no difference in cranking RPMs. Jacked around that day a couple of hrs. Checked all fuses (inside & under hood).
Bought the scanner - needed one anyway. Actron 9580A. All it shows on codes is a problem ABS wheel sensor (C1230) and a non-MIL code:
P1000: "OBDII Monitor / Drive cycle test not complete."
Suggested fix: "drive vehicle until drive cycle test is complete."
I don't think that's keeping it from starting. No idea about the drive cycle test. The battery hasn't been disconnected OR dead since I replaced it. It's certainly been driven hundreds of miles since new battery. Right after reading the codes today, decided to try starting. Didn't turn over quickly - battery somewhat low after 2 weeks w/o driving.
Surprise - it started - though didn't turn over fast. I let it idle some, then started recording data w/ the scanner. Where a couple weeks ago w/ the engine turning over like mad, it wouldn't start or even fire.
Note: only real difference in today (when finally started) & 2 weeks ago, or the time several months earlier: today is much cooler - in the 60's - vs. 90's the times it didn't start.
So, right back at square one - no signs of what's keeping it from starting. Maybe need some instructions on using more advanced features of the scanner / recording live data (if it starts again).
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