Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Premature Downshift Into First When Slowing Down - Trans DTC P1740
Jul 15, 2005
I have a code P1740 that sets after a couple of drive cycles. This is preceeded by a flashing "Overdrive Off" light, until the MIL eventually comes on.
The only driveability symptom seems to be a premature downshift into first when slowing down. When cruising at highway speeds, I can turn OD on or off using the switch on the end of the shift lever and all appears OK.
Could it be the OD solenoid, and if so is this something I could change myself?
2001 F-150 4.6L 51K miles
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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2000 f150 4x4 5.4l 4r70w Trans. I am getting these 2 codes and I have read on 1 or the other what they mean but nothing I can find on getting both codes at the same time. Truck runs drives and shifts fine Fluid is full and clean. Trying to figure out where I should start looking first.
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My truck, the aforementioned 01 f150 5.4 has been running fine but has had the codes p0401 and p1740. I know what they both mean I just haven't fixed them yet. Today I went to move my truck and it wouldnt start. It turned over fine and would hit some but wouldn't start. Would the tcc solenoid be the cause of that? Also the reason my egr is throwing is because there is a line that is not connected but I have no clue where it connects to... Where is the best place to get diagrams for the egr system.
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I have a 2003 Camry LE with 1MZ engine and U151 5 speed auto trans. 138,000 miles The problem is that the trans makes a very noticeable downshift clunk when stopping.
With light driving you can feel what seems to be a 2-1 downshift just before stopping. With aggressive driving and rapid stop the clunk is felt either when stopping or actually after the wheels stop turning depending on speed and hard braking. If you stop aggressively it actually feels like someone hit you from behind. It literally shakes the car.
TRANS FLUID is full and clean. There is no smell or burnt appearance. The trans tests good in forward and reverse stall tests. Neutral to drive/reverse engagement is also quick and firm.
Here is the fun part. The condition does not exist when cold. After the engine and trans warms up it starts happening. Also, after presenting the condition with a hot trans, I can shift it out of drive and into 3rd and have no problem at all no matter how I drive. To make things more interesting, I can erase the trans learned values with a scan tool and the trans shifts normally for a couple of days before the condition returns.
We are concerned that there may be damage done if this condition continues.
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2000 5.4 4x4. 104k miles. Extended cab. Heres the issue, when you're at that spot on a slight upgrade and the tranny should down shift out of overdrive it will downshift kinda hard. Sometimes it does this and sometimes it wont. Its driving me nuts. I thought maybe change the fluid and filter and see what happens, but a tranny guy that I don't know from the other guy said dont waste your money its more than likely a broken spring behind a piston. I put a new motor in this truck about 10k ago so I can wrench. It did this before the motor swap too.
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1997 ford f150 automatic 4x4 was perfectly fine till today ,no slipping no warning nothing.pulled in the driveway and about 30 minutes later had to run out.the truck tried and pulled like it wanted to go while in drive but wouldn't.then i tried it in reverse and went fine like nothing is wrong.i put it back into drive accelerated for a minute then it went for about 15 miles.while at a red light tried to go and it wouldnt move but was able to put it in reverse to back out of the lane.so i had it tow roped back home and halfway there while accelerated about 10 miles into it it caught and ran fine till i slowed down.at home i changed the tranny filter and fluid.no foul smell,the fluid looked perfect,no metal nothing in the tranny pan,i tried to put it in 2wd and 4wd to see if it would go and still did nothing.after accelerating the gas a minute it pulled and tried to move forward but nothing.
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My truck won't down shift most of the time if I'm in 4wd especially I have to manually shift or stop let the rpms go to idle then it shifts down and I can take my foot off the brake and drive again not good when ur in deep mud and u start slowing down and can't bring rpms up...
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2003 F150 SuperCrew 9.75". Today we got to tearing into my rear end on my truck. I was having a clicking noise from the rear end when slowing down from about 20mph. It was a constant click, click, click, click. It was driving me nuts. Well when I first tore the cover off to change the wheel bearings I found some metal pieces in the bottom of the rear end housing.
I did some researching and came to the conclusion it was the shims behind the side gears or the clutch packs. Well it turned out to be the clutch packs were totally shot!! The side gears and the spider gears were loose and kinda just flopping around!! I ended up changing the side gears and spiders gears, bought them as a kit through ford and then the clutch packs.
The job overall wasn't to hard at all. The hardest part was getting the spider gears spun into the carrier. Ford has a "special tool" that that compresses the clutches and another to hold the carrier through the splines in the gears so you can spin the carrier itself to spin the spider gears in. We ended up using the axel shaft itself and clamping it into a vise and setting the carrier on it to hold it from being able to spin.
We then took a piece of all thread and put it through the side gears and put washers on each of the side gears and nuts in-between them and then spinning the nuts up and down to compress the clutches. Basically what Fords "special tool" does. Then just spun the carrier with the pin that goes through the two spider gears and that was about it. Once we got that done it was all basically putting it all back together.
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I have had a few times when my 2013 Chevy Traverse LT suddenly jumped to a low gear while quickly slowing down, causing the RPMs to jump up to 4-5000 RPMs. It remains in that gear until I am practically stopped. Is this normal?
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I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 with a 5.4 engine. On two different occasions, I have been driving down the highway about 70 miles an hour down a slight grade in OD. When I let off the gas to coast a little the truck will downshift. press on the gas again, the truck goes back into OD. I do this a couple of times and then it wont do it again. What might be happening. Truck has 82,000 miles on it. I am the only owner. Transmission fluid changed a year ago.
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When I'm slowing down, usually about 35 mph which i think is going from 3rd to 2nd gear, there is a noticeable rough down shift. Nothing horrible, but definitely much more noticeable than the shifting of all the other gears.
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Just did some trading for a 97 f150 4x4 extended cab with a 5.4 and auto trans. The guy I got it from told me that the transmission in it shifts real fast and won't downshift once it gets going and shifts hard sometimes. From past experiences I figured it might be the tps and sure enough pulled codes and I got the 122 code for voltage to low on it. Checked the wires with my multimeter and had exactly 5.0 volts to the one wire and when I checked the ground back to the battery had 12.xx volts when i tested the signal wire it had 1.0 so all my wires checked out but I am still getting the code. I replaced the sensor once already so I guess it is possible I got a new sensor that is bad or is there a chance that maybe my plugin to it is bad?
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For the most part, I'm pretty happy with my 2010 Santa Fe SE (V6 AWD Automatic).
When I'm coming up to a yield sign, or otherwise slowing down to say 5-10 miles an hour but not a complete stop, and then when I start to try to go again, there is a hesitation and then the vehicle kind of jerks as it starts. It's like it takes a half second to a second for the throttle to respond, and by then it revs higher than I expect. I don't know if it's the throttle delay or a delay downshifting before it starts, or a combination of the two.
I've also noticed that a half second or so delay when just sitting in park and quickly pressing the throttle and releasing. I can press the pedal to about 50% and release it before the RPMs respond at all. Then it'll rev up and back down as you'd expect, just not WHEN you'd expect.
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Had a slight shutter or jerking feeling in their LS, sort of like the rotors are warped, when they slow to a stop from 40+ MPH? I just cannot make the car stop smoothly no matter the amount of brake pressure I apply.
I can 100% eliminated the issue if I shift the car into neutral before I slow down. So it has to be the the transmission not downshifting smoothly. Done it from day one. I even replaced my rotors and brakes so I know that isn't it.
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is it possible to put a 351 or a 302 in a 97 f150 with the 5.4 e40d trans is so what all would have to be done in order for everything to work rite??
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Ok so when I come to a full stop my truck doesn't want to shift right when I take off where do I need to start looking
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I have a 1998 f 150 v8 4.6 ltr xlt. A mechanic told me that if my tranny gets hot the OVERDRIVE LIGHT will start to blink. It sounds strange to me, should I have a guage installed? I will be towing a trailer this summer.
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I have a 1997 F150 4 x 4 with the 5.4 overdrive transmission. When I accelerate from a stop I can feel the slip of the transmission until I reach exactly 35 miles an hour. Above 35 seems to be normal and have plenty of torque.
The funny thing about this is I have had a 2001 Windstar same 35 miles an hour. I have also owned a 1997 Ford Explorer with this exact same issue. Three different motor and trans combination that will not lock up until you reach 35 miles an hour.
The truck has 213,000 I have replaced all coils fuel filters catalytic converter and torque converter. Have exterior tranny cooler. engine runs good and strong. And no code I have a reader.
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I have 97 f150 x-cab 4.6 auto 4x4. I'm gettin ready to pull motor & trans to rebuild both. I was wondering if I can pull both while still bolted together without having to remove the cab??? And what else will needed to be removed.
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 4x4 with the 4R70W trans. its leaking fluid from somewhere. its not the pan gasket or the seal. it seems to be coming from the top somewhere. the dipstick tube has new o-rings. and the cooler lines have been replaced and are not leaking either. Where else it could be coming from. the passenger side of the bell housing is wet with fluid.
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