Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Power Window Motor Replacement
Apr 29, 2006
What do I need to do to replace the drivers side window motor in my 97 f150? Do you need special tools? or just pull the panel loose from the door replace and motor and push the panel back on. Or is there plastic clips that are going to break off?
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My driver's door power window motor stopped working. Replaced motor (Dorman). New motor was shaky and wouldn't stop when going down. Replaced motor again (Dorman), same thing. Regulator became damaged, replaced (Dorman), smoother, still won't stop with auto button, or holding down button. At some point glass came out of regulator and track. Replaced glass. Window goes up and down smoothly, but just doesn't stop when going down and tries to keep going. I don't see a limit switch or circuit for it. I see there is a relay and a fuse for the auto down. What tells the motor to stop driving current?
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Drivers window not working .. I pulled panel and checked voltage at motor when switch was activated 12.8 volts on this vehicle. Is just the motor changed or the whole window mechanism. If so, what are the steps ...
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Do we need to drain the fluid to change the transfer case motor?
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I just replaced my Wiper motor last week and noticed something strange. For the last year or so when I turn on the key to start the truck, once in a while my radio, gauges, and other electricals such as windows wouldn't work for a bit, anywhere from a couple seconds to maybe as much as a couple minutes. Since my wiper motor was on the fritz, I pulled the fuse and the radio,gauges,ect. wouldn't work until the WTS light went out, then everything worked just fine, even after I started the truck and the glow plugs come back on.Since I replaced the motor everything works as soon as i turn the key. Coincidence? Or could one of the internal relays on the motor being stuck cause that?
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I have a 1997 ford explorer, the passenger side rear window only works in one direction, I have tested motor and it does work in both directions reversing the polarity, checked switch by checking voltage on each prong of plug (where motor plugs into harness), and does get 12 volts on each line as switch is being activated,I think there may be a ground problem on the one side that does not work, where to start looking??
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My power window switch illumination has gone dark on one side of the switches....
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower.
I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower. I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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I have a 2000 f150, the overdrive light flashes on the swifter, the motor has no power and sputters unless I put it in second gear. It won't shift gears in drive.
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I am replacing the high pressure power steering line on my 2000 Lightning and have a question about the fitting that goes into the steering gear. The new hose came with a black rubber o-ring that the instructions seem to indicate goes on the end of the steering gear fitting. The problem is that I did not see any o-ring on the original hose end or in the steering gear itself and the hose did not leak there (it was leaking on the pump fitting). Should there be an o-ring at the end of the fitting or does the fitting go on without it and uses a metal to metal seal? If replace this hose, did you use the o-ring or leave it out? Does it go on like this? Or like this?
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Can the power window regulator motor on a 96 Explorer be repaired? I can hear the motor make a thump noise but it is bound. I have seen videos on earlier model Fords where the motor can be taken apart and the plastic spheres can be replaced but I didn't know if that can be done on a 96 model.
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Looking for a video or directions as to how I replace a windshield wiper motor on a 2006 SD?
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I would like to replace my drivers side window. It has some deep scratches and with the windows tinted it really shows. Been looking for place to buy from but can't seem to find one.
The only one I found was on Amazon but was trying to find one cheaper or with no shipping charge.
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The front passenger window motor seems to be making a strange sound when going up. It is very quiet and normal when putting the window down, but it makes a hard-to-describe noise when putting the window up.
Is the motor going bad? What's the best way to troubleshoot this problem? I'm thinking take the door panel off and put the window up/down, and use my mechanic stethoscope to be sure the noise is coming from the motor.
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My 2006 F350 has a nasty air leak/whistle coming from the rear power sliding window, unfortunately I found the one of the vertical seals laying in the cab. Looking for some insight on if there is a replacement seal kit, where I can find one and how difficult is it to install?
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My wife's 2006 Camry left rear power window motor is bad.
I already checked the plug and there is voltage when I use the switch.
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2008 crew cab - passenger front window will not respond at all from master driver side switch. from the passenger side switch it goes down only. I purchased new regulator/motor assembly on advise from an experienced mechanic and a service manager from a Ford dealership. The new motor does the same thing - down but not up and only from the passenger switch. An Autozone manager said that was wrong advise. that if the motor went in one direction it was fine and it was a switch problem. I purchased a new main driver side master switch....same problem.
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This procedure explains how to remove the driver side, rear door panel, test the power window motor and switch and replace the power window regulator assembly.
Tools Required: #2 Philips screwdriver, small slot screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, jumper cables, set of test leads with alligator clips, DC voltmeter.
Cost: In the end, I did not end up buying a new window regulator assembly, but I think a "Dorman 741-356 Rear Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator with Motor for Toyota Camry" would work.
1. Locate the anchor (red arrow). Push the center in and then pry the anchor out with a slot screwdriver.
2. Remove ashtray, pry and remove the rubber liner and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
3. While pulling the door handle, carefully pry the plastic trim piece away from the door handle bezel and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
4. Pushing the door trim piece forward, pry the rear upward. Note that there is a plastic tab (red arrow) at the front of this trim piece, so it is necessary to lift it from the back to avoid breaking it.
5. Squeeze the electrical connector to remove it from the socket and then set the trim piece/switch assembly aside.
6. Remove #2 Phillips screw (red arrow).
7. Remove two #2 Philips screws (circled in red) at the bottom of the door.
8. Grasp the bottom of the door panel with your fingertips and gently, but firmly pull outward to disengage the 9 snaps on the door.
9. Lift the door panel upward to unhook it from the door. Carefully set the door panel on the ground.
10.Pull the white plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Pull the green plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Gently set the door panel aside. %
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So I've been noticing some issues with my 2011 GTI with only 1800 miles. I had some weird drive by wire issues, like the motor holding its RPMs with the clutch in for excessive time, a start up and idle issue (TPS?), my passenger window is very slow (heard that this is common), and now my driver window hesitates and pauses when rolling it down... ERR!
And yes I will take it to the dealer, its just that I live 100 plus miles away.
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