Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Power Loss - Cannot Go Very Fast
Oct 8, 2014
I have a 97 F150XL 4x4 a few days ago i was driving and i started to lose power i had to take it out of overdrive just to maintain 60mph by the end of the day it took a good 45 seconds to a full minute to get up to 10 mph. I have been told it is the catalytic converter, anything that would cause this it has a lope when stopped at a light but is fine when in park it acts like its flooding when I take off from a stop but the faster I go after taking off the flooding feel goes away and just seems like a lack of power. That morning i put on a EGR vacuum solenoid and an o2 sensor...
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Yesterday had my truck 1999 ford f150 v8 4x4 it was just sitting there idling fine then it all of sudden sounded like it was about to stall then began idling fine again. It has some hesitation on take off and when going about 40 mph
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Ok so I have a 2001 f150 4.6l 4x4 I purchase it recently and have been having some issues it has a huge power loss on take off and even while driving I have changed plugs coils tested almost every sensor and am at a loss at this point. No check engine light on or codes...
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Ive got a 2001 f-150, 5.4L, 121k miles. I've replaced the fuel filter, removed and cleaned all injectors, cleaned MAF, changed 2 faulty coil packs, and installed all new plugs.
No codes thrown, truck runs smooth. Problem is intermittent. It will act as though it's got no power, usually won't happen till it's warm. I can drive it for 2 hours, runs strong. Sometimes when I pull onto a highway and get on the throttle a bit, it starts to hesitate, rpm's go to about 3k and it hesitates, but does not miss. acts like trans is slipping but I'm positive it's not.
So when it starts to do this, it's constant. I can continue to drive and it's runs terrible, does ok if you barely use any throttle. But.... I can be driving 40-50mph while it's having this problem, toss it in neutral, turn it off and restart, and all the power is back, great acceleration, as if nothing ever happened.
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My 99 F150 4x4, 5.4 triton all of a sudden got very loud and has a loss of power. To me, it sounds like a cylinder is straight open to the atmosphere. I at first thought a spark plug blew out or an injector somehow came dislodged but I checked and everything seems ok. It's coming from the passenger side somewhere but is so loud under the hood I can't tell exactly where.
I took the valve cover off to see if a valve is stuck open or something, but I don't really know what I'm looking at as far as internal engine goes. I turned the crank by hand with a ratchet and the valves seem to follow the cams, but I've never inspected valves before so don't really know what to look for. What could be causing this loss of power and incredibly loud noise?
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Replaced the spark plugs and wires a couple months ago. Started skipping yesterday throwing the #4 misfire code so I replaced the coil pack, reset the check engine light but it's since came back on and has a rough idle and loss of power. By the way, it's a 97 F150 4.6L 4x4 with 200,000 miles.
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1997 F150 4X4 4.6 engine with 285,000 miles
Truck was running perfect down the road, then suddenly it lost power and started missing at all RPM ranges. So i keep driving another 6 miles and then POOF the miss is gone and truck runs perfect. Couple hours later i hop back in it and its running good and then suddenly it starts missing and loosing power again except this time it never started running good again. Never did throw a CEL.
I hooked up my SCT Tuner (for my F250) to check for codes and came up with P0171 which indicated one of the banks was running lean, but no missfire codes. Did a search on here and learned the common problems(vacum leak) of that code.
Found the vacum leak at the PVC elbow, so i replaced both ends of the plastic tube.
Pulled the throttle body elbow and cleaned out the clogged up EGR ports.
Put a new air filter in and took the MAF out and cleaned it with MAF cleaner.
Put it back together and it idled way better but still ran like crap with the bad miss/sputter. Ran it down the road a few miles and came back thinking of the catalytic converter, i crawled underneath and it was glowing red. It does run and feel like the converter is stopped up but if i have a dead miss and dumping fuel wouldnt that make it glow red to or no? Still no CEL and now no codes.
Also i held the engine at about 1000 rpms where i could here the miss good and unplugged the fuel injectors one at a time to see if that made a difference. Each one i unplugged made it miss worse, so wouldnt that tell me that all 8 cylinders are firing?
And i changed the spark plugs (motorcraft) 250 miles ago.
So it still cranks and runs smooth after a cold soak overnight and then after a mile of driving or less it starts the dead miss/sputter and loss of power.
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I bought a 1998 F250 5.4 XLT, 4x4, automatic gear shifting, electric 4x4 HI/LO switch. I'm living up on a hill and when I drove back home last time there was snow and I had to use 4x4 all the way up back home. 4x4 worked fine. I parked the truck and switched of 4x4.
But when I started the truck next time and switched in a gear the 4x4 dash light started blinking. But different to many post I read so far the 4x4 dash light is not just blinking 6 times every 2 minutes, it is blinking constantly very fast (double time of flasher) as soon as I switch in a gear, even without moving the car. The dash light is blinking regardingless to the position of the 4x4 switch. I realized that interior lamp is flashing in same rythm as the 4x4 dash light.
When I shift from 2HI to 4HI 4WD does not engage but it sounds like shift motor on transfer case is doing something. When I switch to 4LO 4WD does not engage either but the gear reduction works. I noticed that when I drive downhill and put on brakes the 4x4 dash light stops blinking for short.
What might be the problem?
What I tested so far:
- All fuses (under dash and under hood) are okay
- Relays under the hood (they switch when I connect them to 12V)
- Switched heating mode selector to panel. Air comes out of panel. Then switched on 4x4 and air comes still out of panel. Not switching to window. So vacuum pump system should be okay as well, right?
- disconnected car battery for a while. Reconnected, started engine, put in a gear and 4x4 dash light was NOT blinking any more. But as soon as I drove a few meters it started blinking again.
- When I drive the speed indicator works as well. So shouldn't be the rear speed sensor, right?
What else can I test?
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All of a sudden wouldn't start Saturday morning. Turns over fast. No fire. Waited a while and tried again and it started and ran fine. It did it again Saturday afternoon, so I changed the fuel filter. Gas from filter was very dirty. Still did it after filter change, so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still did it twice on Sunday. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. Drove it 200 miles without a problem until I killed it. Then it wouldn't start.
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1998 F150 ....Left signal lights flash supper fast or not at all but if I pull the arm down (for left side again) but stop before it clicks in place, signal lights work normal. 4 ways work good; right side works good 95% of the time; all bulbs are good. So like Spotty suggested it's the signal arm switch? Does that sound right? Many years ago I changed it twice in my old Ford Taurus; twice because I was buying used from a wrecker.
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I changed the rear end on my buddies 2003 f150 and now the speedometer is 15 mph fast I was wondering if there is a way for me to calibrate the speedometer..
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Left the truck sitting for a couple of months while working out of town. I bought this truck used with only 1 key. We rebuilt the engine and had noise issues so we don't want to drive it much until this is resolved. I went out to start the truck to move it and it would not start. It had cranked right up the week before. Now it just spins over and the theft light blinks rapidly. I've check all the door locks.
When I called a Ford dealership all the service guy would tell me is that it's going to have a new key made and I have to have the title on the truck to get it done. AND, I have to have the truck towed to a dealership to fix the problem of it not starting... The battery drained down so I took it out and charged it... only thing I can possibly think of is a low battery or maybe somebody tried to steal it while I was out of town and messed up something.
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Just did some trading for a 97 f150 4x4 extended cab with a 5.4 and auto trans. The guy I got it from told me that the transmission in it shifts real fast and won't downshift once it gets going and shifts hard sometimes. From past experiences I figured it might be the tps and sure enough pulled codes and I got the 122 code for voltage to low on it. Checked the wires with my multimeter and had exactly 5.0 volts to the one wire and when I checked the ground back to the battery had 12.xx volts when i tested the signal wire it had 1.0 so all my wires checked out but I am still getting the code. I replaced the sensor once already so I guess it is possible I got a new sensor that is bad or is there a chance that maybe my plugin to it is bad?
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My '99 F150 is having wiring issues. It started with a left flasher being fast and the rear bulb not working. I put in new bulb and that didn't fix it. Then I realized that I also had no tail lights. The reverse lights are good and the brake lights work too.
So far I have searched for and repaired suspicious splices done by PO, added a ground wire that was cut off from the trailer wiring harness, checked every fuse that I could with an ohmmeter and I pulled the multi function switch and tested it with an ohmmeter also. It tested fine but I did find one of the female pin connectors had pulled out of the harness. I managed to get it back in and seemed to click into place alright. Somewhere over the course of all that I now have both sides of my flashers fast and still no tail lights. Good news is that I haven't broken my brake lights or reverse lights yet.
Could I have a bad flasher relay? Earlier in the process I did have my 4 way flashers working correctly and a couple times I even had the turn signals going. Now, none of the rear blinking lights work but the front ones go 90 to nothing and I still have no tail lights. My truck does have the auto lamp thing.
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Vehicle: 01 F150 5.4 4wd
issue: snapping sound like crushing tin can at take off and now at a fast stop.
Repairs already done:
upper control arms
lower ball joints
Sway bar link and bushing
4wd cv axle shaft assembly (both side )
Slip yoke grease.
Tie rod ends replace inner and outer
I put the truck an a lift and put it on drive and there is no sound.
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01 F150. Cranks but no start, will fire with starter fluid spray. Theft light fast flash, Check engine light on. Only have one key and don't know what the kid that had owned has done.
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2002 f250 7.3l diesel...
I got a new radiator and the tranny fluid was the worst the mechanic had ever seen. He serviced it and warned me that it might not be long for this world. I broke my flexplate and so I had to pull the tranny, and I decided to throw a new torque converter in because it was giving g me symptoms like a broken sprag( it wouldn't rev up or do a brake stand in gear, therefore slow takeoffs).
I was recommended to replace the tranny, I decided I could do the job again down the road if I needed to. About two thousand miles down the road I had a hard shift going from overdrive down to get up a hill and about 10 miles later the truck started slowing down....I couldn't give it enough pedal to keep it going and the engine sounded rough.
I pulled over and checked fluids and everything was fine, truck idled fine, bright red tranny fluid not burnt at all. Pulled on to the road again and it pulled fine until about 40 mph and it wouldn't go any faster. I got it towed home and ordered up a tranny from Ford figuring it must be toast, but I thought I'd throw it out to the forum to see if there is any other troubleshooting I can do before I install the new one in case it is some other problem or some electrical harness or something, or if that is a pretty standard reaction to a fried tranny.
Engine runs good at idle, shifts perfectly to drive and reverse, drives forward and back(I'm very hesitant to drive it out of the driveway in case I can't get it back in). Only happened two times before I decided to tow it. Temps looked fine on the gauges, fluid was a little overfilled in the tranny, but again, not hot or burnt.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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I've lost traction going around corners. My daily route takes me down a dirt/gravel road that has a couple of tight curves. It seems that last week my 6 month old, just rotated BFG All Terrain's could run these curves with no problem. Now I'm drifting like the Duke boys running from the law. Even making a right turn on dry pavement gets some squak from the tires.
Truck is a 2002 F150 fx4 with 3.50 LS rear diff with about 185000 miles.
So I have two theories. First is the shocks. Standard Rancho that came with the truck. I don't think they've ever been replaced. My bigger concern is the rear diff. I've had a shudder when I take off at corners that indicates it needs a fluid change or friction mod. added. I did the latter a couple of weeks ago. Didn't really work.
I'm wondering, can the clutch pack in the rear diff go out or go bad? If so, what happens? Does it default to an open diff or spool the axles? Or will it just grenade the whole rear end? The loss of traction is my symptom right now. Possibly some wheel hop on braking today, but I couldn't tell if that was just the road.
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I am having trouble getting my 2000 7.3 (200k) to start on the colder mornings. It will crank over fast, but won't start without a lot of tries. Today it took 6 pre-heats and cranks, but on others (and colder days) it has started easier. It does seem to be getting worse though.
I have replaced the glow plug relay recently so it *shouldn't* be that unless the replacement is fried. Starts fine the rest of the day and drives fine, but not in the cooler am (it was about 34 this morning). I also tested the batteries yesterday and while they aren't new, they tested okay.
Also, I read (briefly) about the CPS, but forgot to watch the tach this morning, but did notice it is pushing smoke out when turning over.
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I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
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