Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Possible Manifold Leak In Exhaust
Mar 12, 2015
So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I own a e1999 Ford F350 7.3 4x4 with a Garrett GTP38R turbo. I have been having issues with very little power and pulled an CEL of P0221. I know it's for the APS and have been trying to trouble shoot it as a new APS has not fixed the problem. However, while working on that I just noticed an oil leak appear. I tracked it down and can visibly see it leaking out the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold in two places. It is seeping out the top. Is oil supposed to even be running through here like that?
I recently replaced my up pipes with the newer style bellowed ones. While I had the turbo off I replaced all the o-rings top and bottom and did the EBPV delete on the pedestal. I have been having very little power and cannot the truck over 5-10 MPH and stays at low RPM's so I originally thought it was the leaky up pipes. Those were fixed along with fuel pressure checks which came back good. I then pulled the P0221 code finally. While I had the turbo off I inspected it and it did spin freely and had no side to side play in it.
What was unusual to me was there was a small pooling of oil in the turbo when I took it off. I know the CCV goes through here so some oil is normal. Also, when I was diagnosing the up pipe leak I could see a small amount of oil spraying out the blown donut gasket along with the exhaust gases. I don't think that is normal.
Is there an internal seal in the turbo that can go bad causing oil to spill into my exhaust and possibly leak at the exhaust manifold? Or do I have an internal oil leak from somewhere else?
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2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
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I am changing the passenfer side exhaust manifold on my '00 150. The bolts all came out fairly easy, sprayed them often in PB over the last 2 days, my problem is the 2nd and 3rd nuts on the bottom are under the motor mount. Do I need to remove that or is there an easier way that I'm missing.
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I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab 4.6 auto that has a leaking exhaust manifold. I changed both manifolds about 3 years ago and the passenger side bank is leaking again. I haven't gotten into yet to see if its just the gasket or the manifold itself. My question is does anyone know of a set of headers I can put on the truck that will bolt up to the existing exhaust? If I make the switch to headers I don't want to have to redo the whole exhaust system.
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I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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I just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
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Truck Specs: 1997 F250 LD 184000 miles and a 5.4, automatic, shift on the fly 4x4 extended cab.
What I did: Changed the exhaust manifold gasket on the right side. There were some broken studs which came out with a stud remover.. No torch was used during this evolution.
What happened: After driving 10-15 miles it set the codes that I listed in the subject line. Reset the codes 20 or so miles later the P1131 code set again. (both times there was a noticeable loss of engine power) The upper O2 sensor checked out with a meter. When I checked the voltage on the truck's harness plug referenced to the NEG terminal on the battery, both the power and gnd had 12V- Key On Engine Not Running (KOENR).
What I did: Cleaned the connections put dielectric grease in the connections and reassembled. Reset codes; all was well ~ 100 Miles later the codes are back. I also ran a continuity check from the plug to the control module, they check out fine.
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I was looking at my exhaust manifold..and I found a couple of studs missing...so if I want to replace both of them , is it better if I replace all of them on both sides of the engine ?
By the way..my exhaust manifold is good I don't think none of the studs are broken.. but I have been having this engine knocking noise on my engine, do yall think a couple of studs could be the problem of why my engine is knocking?
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If the exhaust manifold gasket is broke / cracked will it making a ticking sound?
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So I've driven my 97 F-150 (4.6 L) around for several months now listening to that wretched left side exhaust leak caused by the nut on the EGR tube rotting off the nipple on the manifold. I tried plugging it, taping it with that exhaust "bandage" tape, etc. Nothing obviously ever lasted. And I sure didn't want to try replacing the manifold and then dealing with the potential broken studs, etc.
Then I finally got around to getting the gas tank straps replaced with that recall. So I took it to the dealership this past Friday. I mentioned the EGR tube leak kind of in passing. The service manager said they could fix it for about 80 bucks. He said they had successfully removed quite a few of those nipples without replacing the manifold. I kind of thought to myself "yeah right" (considering I live in the rust belt with all the road salt, etc.) and told them to go for it.
Not surprisingly, they called me back later in the day and said they couldn't get it out, and he wants to replace the manifold, etc. I just told him to plug it instead. When I picked up the truck, I learned the mechanic decided to WELD it instead of plugging it. I was pretty surprised that he tackled it, and he actually did a pretty decent job in sealing it except for one small pin hole on the back side between the welds. I mixed up some JB Weld and filled the pinhole. The welds may fail or the JB Weld blows out tomorrow, but, in the meantime, I don't have to listen to that wretched exhaust leak constantly. At least I'll have a few days peace if not longer
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My 2003 f150 4x4 w/5.4 has 220k miles and only minor issues until a few days ago. I now have a coolant leak at the mating surface (both sides left and right) of the aluminum crossover coolant manifold (holds thermostat on one end). I have most of the bolts out to remove the crossover manifold but there is one bolt on the RH side that comes from the underside. All things equal, main question is... Can that crossover mainfold be removed independently from the intake? My thought is that in order to get to that last single bolt (there may be others I am not aware of yet) that I will need to remove the intake.
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I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
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I've got a 1997 F150 with the 4.2L V6. Before I got it last summer I did some research, but apparently missed the issue with the intake manifold gasket leaks on these early engines. It seems to be a very slow leak, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I called Ford to see if it had had the recall work done on it, but all they could tell me is that there wasn't an open recall on my truck (with the exception of the recent fuel tank strap recall). Their system apparently only goes back 10 years, so they couldn't even see the freakin' recall. So, I've got a few questions:
1) I know I didn't post much info, but does this seem like an intake manifold leak?
2) Are there any special tools needed to change out the gasket myself?
3) Can you all recommend any replacement gaskets? I found a few different manufacturers of gaskets, but I'm sure some are better than others.
4) Can this issue cause the computer to throw the loose gas cap code (P0455 if I recall correctly).
5) Would it be worth it to just get a new truck? I really wanted a diesel in the first place, but I also hate to give up on a nice truck with only 115,000 miles.
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I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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I have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
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I currently own a 2009 F-150 XLT, ext. cab, 4X4, 4.6l, 6R80 trans. Surprise, Surprise I have just developed an exhaust leak at the manifold collector. After some careful investigation, I separated the pipe from the manifold and the sealing surface is totally rotted away. I cleaned it up as best as I could and slathered some muffler cement inside the joint to seal the leak. It is about 80% better but will get worse again I'm sure.
I visited my local Ford dealer and talked to a friend I have working there and he said Ford has known about quality issues with manifolds for years and he was surprised that the manifolds lasted 70k miles.
I am hoping to use the truck as is through the winter and in the spring I am going to install these headers:JBA Headers - Reviews on JBA Cat4ward Exhaust Headers - Stainless, Ceramic & Chrome Finishes
This intake:K&N 63 Series AirCharger High Flow Cold Air Intake Kits Best Price & Reviews
This tuner:Bully Dog Triple Dog GT Tuner (49-State Legal) - Bully Dog GT Tuner Reviews on Gas Programs for Dodge, Chevy, Ford & Nissan Trucks
I already installed a Flowmaster American thunder catback exhaust system about a year ago...
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