A friend from work is having what he says is piston slap, but only under a load. I feel it could be the timing set since it's never been changed and at least 160k miles. Odometer quit working at least 5 years ago. Other than that, motor runs great. 1997 F150 4.6....
View 4 Replies2007/ES350.
I got this car in december 2014 and yes, there was this well known piston slap noise on cold mornings.
The dealer where the car has been maintained did an oil change at 54 400 miles and they added bulk oil 0W-20. I think that's a pretty thin oil for this engine, also the manual recommends 5w30.
So I bought a box of Amsoil 5w-30 Signature Series, the OEM filter and did an oil change.I could immediately tell the difference, the piston slap started to fade and the MPG went up. They say that this oil will improve the fuel consumption, and that's true.
But the most important thing is that piston slap noise started to fade immediately and now after 2500 miles there's around 10% of the piston slap noise. The engine is smooth as silk and I'm really happy with the result.
I just turned 210,000 miles on my 2003 Silverado, and I have started to notice what sounds like piston slap when at warm idle. When I start the truck in the morning, it sounds fine. But once the engine warms up, then I hear the noise. I'll rev the engine up to 2000-3000 rpms for a couple seconds, then let it idle, and the noise is gone. But 10-20 seconds later, it slowly comes back. I do not hear the noise at all when driving the truck. I tried SeaFoaming the engine through the throttle body and the brake booster vacuum line thinking it was carbon build up, but this did not fix the issue. However I may have eradicated the entire mosquito population!!
I've read that piston slap on these trucks only happens during a cold start. This is not the case with my truck. But am I still hearing piston slap.
2003 Silverado W/T 4.8L V8
Just purchased 2015 Camry LE. While taking delivery, I noticed a subtle piston slap that started shortly after the engine started and completely went away after driving the car for about 10 minutes. Most people would not consider it an issue, but I am an engineer working with large industrial engines all the time so it was a concern. I asked to drive another Camry on the lot and it had the same issue. The service manager came out and said that this slap is normal and all 2012 - 2015 Camry with 2AR-FE engine do this. I bought the car anyway since I loved the overall design, ride quality and the features, but the piston slap keeps bothering me.
2012-2015 Camry equipped with 2AR-FE 2.5L engine? In order to check you have to start the cold engine and wait for the RPMs to drop to around 900 which will take 1-2 min. Put your ear in front of the radiator and listed to the subtle metallic tapping noise of the pistons rocking and slapping the bore walls. The noise will last for about 10 minutes until the pistons expand and close the excess gap between them and the bore.
My 2005 with 160k miles has engine noise when cold.
I talked to a couple specialists who said it could be valve noise another said valve noise would not abate when the engine warmed up. He suspected piston slap. A valve adjustment is pricey and the local independents are afraid to touch it given the complexity and needed shim packs. If it is piston slap I would be disappointed after spending a pile of dough to still have the same noise.
Have I missed a possible cause?
I have a loud noise coming from the passenger side of the engine, on my 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2,4 with less than 6000 km L. My buddy said it was a lifter. Last night, my brother-in- law, a qualified mechanic, who is the fixed operations manager at a Hyundai dealership said it is ''piston slap'' and that they had already changed two engines this year for this.
I had the mechanic listen to the noise 2 weeks ago when in for my first oil change but Blondie said it was the fuel injection system...
I have a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4r70w and it shifts a bit slow between first and second. So I've been doing my research and figured id try to put new 1-2 accumulator piston and springs in. What are the part numbers so I don't order the wrong stuff.
View 1 RepliesIt has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
View 11 Replies1999 4.6 (106K miles) will stumble / miss when at 35-50 mph under a mid throttle load (just before reaching the downshift point). Has been doing this since I bought the truck at 70K miles.
Computer has no codes, engine runs fine under all other circumstances, and gets a decent ~20 MPG on the highway.
Done the standard tune up items (plugs / motocraft) and cleaned MAF, replaced TPS, tranny flush/ filter. Replaced the left O2 sensor 2 months ago, but it dumped a code and was really noticeable when it went out.
I am about ready to dive off and replace the MAF, but at $100 a shot would like other alternatives to try first. I am really convinced the engine is leaning out and misfiring under this load.
I have 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. Truck runs fine until under load and runs fine until I slow down to a stop sign. Once truck sits for a few moments it fires up again and will run for a short while then will do it again. Each time i let it sit for a few minutes, it will start again.
I pull a small travel trailer and seems to happen more frequently when pulling or climbing hill, but not under full power, just when slowing down. Could this be cause of catalytic converters? MAF sensor, or fuel starving.
Check engine light is on, will codes identify if it is a plugged cat?
My 4.2 liter F150 suddenly started missing under load. A little background: It is a late 2003 and has 75k miles. It has been in my family since new, and I have had it for the last 4 years. This truck is as stock as they come, and has been well maintained.
On my way to work yesterday, it began missing. Not bad at first, but got worse. It misses while under load and under acceleration. The "check engine light" never came on. I have not put fuel in in several days, and it ran fine until now, so I doubt it is bad fuel. I started the engine after dark and looked for arcing. None visible, and I even sprayed the wires with a mist of water. I pulled the plugs and they all look normal. The gaps were all way too large, so I regapped the plugs to .054". I pulled the coil pack and it checks within range with my VOM. Can the coil pack be the problem even though it checks out on the bench? Can the large plug gaps have contributed to a coil pack failure?
Where to start. I HATE just throwing parts at this thing, and I don't like wasting money... If I let one of the auto parts stores run a scan, will it show a code even though I have no check engine light? I used to think of myself as a pretty good diagnostician, but then again, when I used to spend a lot of time under the hood, those cars had points, condensers and carburetors...
My daughter has a 2010 F150 with 5.4, when pulling her horse trailer or extended idling her truck starts running rough, so far her husband has changed the fuel pump and 2 coil packs, no luck.
View 3 RepliesI have a 03 f150 2wd with the 4.6l. Recently it has been slow shifting into reverse(about 2 full seconds) and when it finally gets in reverse it shudders when it comes under load. The fluid is full and not burnt...
View 1 RepliesHave a p0401 code which I need to diagnose and solve. However, I don't believe the symptoms are indicative of the EGR system. Its a 1999 4.6L auto approximately 200k miles. Truck runs fine until it warms up, and then occasionally it begins to act like its missing under load. steady state on the freeway it may have an occasional miss, but put a load on the motor and the miss becomes real bad. This doesn't seem to me to be symptomatic of a P0401 code, but I don't really understand the EGR system enough to be sure. Searching on the forums for other p0401 codes doesn't seem to have the same symptoms.
View 10 RepliesI've got a 97 truck, broke the crank, swapped in a motor from an 07. Heads down is 07, intake up is 97. had heads planed and a valve job with new seals done. Left it alone from the rings down. Got it in this weekend, running today. Ran it in the driveway with no load for about 30 minutes, top end was noisy for about 5 minutes till the top end got good and oily (I'm assuming). Purred like a kitten, sounded real smooth. Took it for a drive around the block, heard the clatter in the video below. It's almost always there when driving. Brought it back, turned it off to check oil, it was a quart low. Added oil, startup was VERY labored with a real hard knock in the bottom end. Ran like poo till I gave it some throttle for a couple seconds, then it cleaned up and idled well. Let it run for a couple minutes, turned off and let it sit for a couple minutes then started back up, same thing. Very labored with hard knocking.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford F-150 with a 5.4 Triton. 212,xxx miles. I replaced the cops and the plugs about 6 months ago. I was pulling a trailer up hill last week and the engine was under a load doing about 3000rpm. It began to misfire and give me a flashing mil. However, before I went very far the engine began to run fine. It happened 3-4 different times. However, there is no code recorded. I've driven the truck nearly 100 miles with no problems, but I'm going to be pulling that trailer uphill again next week.
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a 2000 f150 4.6 with 105000 on it I notice when I was driving if the engine got under a load it whined. It does it every time and it does it being parked but not as bad. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesBrake pedal was going to the floor. Plenty of fluid in Master Cylinder.
Pulled both front wheels off to find no sign of any leaks anywhere. High and dry all around.
Metal lines look like new the length of the car. No rust, no sign of any leakage. Clean and clear all around (this is a southern car).
Didn't pull the rear tires off, but just by rubber-necking with a flashlight, all dry back there, too.
So I removed the bottom bolt on both front calipers and swung them up out of the way.
Then I started pumping the brakes to see if the pistons moved.
Two rounds of about 6-7 pumps of the pedal, and nothing. No movement.
Third round, shocked to see both pistons came nearly all the way out!!!! In fact, when I touched them, they wobbled. They were hanging by a thread.
So I tried using a C-Clamp and old brake pad combo to try to push the driver's side piston back in.
But the (fairly large) C-Clamp wouldn't open quite enough, and unequal pressure was applied to the face of the piston.
Next thing I knew, the whole thing exploded with the piston falling out, and all the fluid gushing out to the ground.
Should I just pull the passenger side piston off now, too? And let that fluid also gush out? (all this fluid is pretty much original from the factory, so it's old fluid anyway.
Do I just place the piston back into the bore, refill, and bleed? The piston just sits in there loose like that with only the rubber seal holding it in??? Or are these calipers history?
What about the pads and discs? Some of the fluid got on the bottom half of the disc and one of the pads. Just wash it off with brake cleaner and let dry prior to reinstall?
'97 Taurus GL Wagon 3.0L OHV205k miles
I have a 97 F150, 2wd, 4.6, auto bought for a great price agout 3 months ago.... I installed a cold air intake (air raid) and a throttle body spacer with the swirling cuts.
Since the cold air intake add, the truck occasionally makes a load "roaring" sound from the intake system. At same time rpms increase 500-1000 rpms...
it doesn't do it all the time, mostly at low throttle, and a quick jab on the accelerator usually stops it. sometimes such as when parking, holding the brake and applying a bit of throttle with load from the brake will also stop it.
Guys at local garage seem to think it has something to do with lower outside temps, (denser) and addition of cold air intake. it made the noise before the throttle body spacer.
I only hear it in gear under load so I can't stick my head under the hood to pin point it. I dont see any black streaks and I replaced the EGR tube. Is it commonly just the gasket or do the manifolds crack? If they crack where?
View 11 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 5.4L 4WD with 192k mi on it. Recently ( suddenly ) the vehicle began shuttering pretty alerting under light load at 35 - 45mph. The engine idle was intermittently smooth then rough. I quickly drove the truck home and ran a Trouble Code check with my Autoxray EZ-scan 4000 and found the two trouble codes P0302 and P0171. I have checked for vacuum hose cracks and found none.
Replaced the fuel filter, PCV valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor ( dirty ).
Right after cleaning the MAF sensor the idle remained smooth - but stumbling immediately when put in drive. Driving at 35-45mph still exhibits intermittent shuttering and occasional very short bursts of what feel like complete engine shut-down. This all is evident under light to moderate load .
At this point what would you recommend ? Replacing the O2 sensor bank #1 ? Or is there a possibility maybe the EGR valve is faulty - or another vacuum valve somewhere ? Intake manifold leak ?
The severe stumbling and very short complete engine shut downs would indicate that maybe the computer is failing or it's a fuel delivery issue? What rational steps to take next ?