When braking i would feel the pedal pulsating...figured the pads were finished. Checked them out and they were not in that great a shape so I changed them all around. I'm still getting a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal.... I just need to bleed them or are the discs warn or warped or something?
View 8 RepliesI just had new rear drums put on, my front brake pads are new, my rotors are good...but there is still a pulsating when I brake. When I am just about slowed down you can definitely feel a surging coming from somewhere. The steering wheel does not shake, and I don't feel more than a vibration from the brake pedal. I have taken it to 3 mechanics and replacing the drums was given as a solution. But since I have already done that, the problem is obviously not resolved. I know I need new tires as 2 of them are really cupped and loud...could that be it?
View 19 RepliesAfter my 2006 Ford F150 Lariet started shaking and pulsating when braking (38,000 miles) I took the truck to the Ford dealer and asked to have my brake pads checked. They came back and siad they looked fine and I had alot of wear left. Then I mentioned that is was shaking and asked them to check it again, they drove it and then said my rotors are warped and I need to replace the rotors and pads. I don't haul, tow or do anything crazy with it.
Now, here's my questions:
1. Can the rotors go bad and the brake pads be fine?
2. Should I go with a ceramic pad or stick with the OEM?
I'm just a female and don't want to be taken advantage of at the dealers. Cost is not an issue when purchasing a good product.
Having ABS issue with my 2004 Ford Escape XLT.
A bit of background information: every now and then (usually when decelerating from around 35-40mph), I will get a pulsating/knocking feeling from my brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the ABS, as I was told about a year ago that the ABS tone ring was broken. The more the problem manifested itself, the more I got to study it a bit. The pulsating/knocking in the pedal is usually accompanied by a very dry rubbing sound, and both the sound and the pulsating seem to be in direct relation to the motion of the wheels. I took it to the local garage this weekend and they recommended changing out the rear brakes - this made sense to me, as they haven't been changed out for as long as I have had the car.
Got the car back about an hour ago - on my way home, the pulsating came back when I was coasting into a stop light. The pulsating seems to have no affect whatsoever on the stopping distance of the car - a few times when it has happened, I have mashed the pedal, and the car comes to a quick stop just as you would want it to. After coming out of a complete stop, the brakes will work completely fine for a while - there seems to be no real rhyme or reason to what makes it happen.
05 GX 470...no KDDS...100k miles. When I've been driving a few miles, I feel a pulsating when braking. Feels like it's coming from the front (front left if I had to guess). I put in new rotors and brakes in the front, turned the back rotors and problem still persists, no improvement.
I'm now considering the hub-bearing. However, when I do the standard-check (lift wheel and apply stress from top/bottom) there's no indication of a bad hub bearing.
The problem worsens as I drive faster. When on the highway, if I start to turn the wheel right 'then' brake...the steering wheel pulsates bad. When I turn the wheel left 'then' brake, it's not as bad...but still noticeable. When I start pressing the brake pedal 'then' start to turn the wheel right it's still there but not as bad compared to applying the brake after turning.
There's no pulsation in the break pedal, only the steering wheel and body/chassis.
Got new brakes 4 months ago - except this time put in redstuff ceramic pads.
I've had really bad vibration and grinding lately so I just had the rotors machined and cleaned up.
Some of the vibration is gone but when I apply the brakes more than very lightly I get shaking shuddering including the steering wheel. If I apply the brakes harder it goes away.
I would estimate the pulsating/shuddering/shaking happens when I apply the brakes more than 10 percent up to say 40-50 percent. Very light pressure no problems and hard braking no issues.
This has gotten worse since the servicing. What could be causing this? I've already replaced the propshaft and am replacing the tires.
Test drove an 08 V10 today. Brakes seemed to work fine and didn't lock up but I felt no pulsating in the pedal and heard no chirping of the tires like most ABS systems do. Is this normal? Anything special to look for in used late model V10s?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Acura TSX with 117k miles. We had the rotors and pads replaced in July of 2014 at Midas (won't go back there again!). Anyway, we are getting a pulsating in the steering wheel (shaking) when braking at times. Sometimes it is much more noticeable than others. This started shortly after having the pads/rotors installed. I took it back to Midas, and of course they couldn't duplicate the issue.
So, here's my question, can we continue to drive the car until it needs new pads (then I'll change the pads and rotors)? I know that the steering vibration can be annoying at times (it's not AWFUL, but you can tell that they're warped). I really hate to have to replace both right now as money is pretty tight with buying a house.
Ok, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
View 3 RepliesI'm getting this checked today most likely as it's been happening for months now. No issues with vibration and stopping is fine. As a matter of fact brakes are excellent. However when I'm stopped at a light or whatnot and I depress the brake pedal there's a pulsation that occurs almost every time. It's fairly constant and only happens when I'm at a stop not when I'm stopping so I know it's not a warped rotor. What it might be?
View 4 Replies2003 Hyundai Accent. I will try to give a good description of the issue. Wheel was shaking (or was noticeable) at about 60 mph. Lessened after that but still bad. I had my tires changed and balanced as well as an alignment. My rear right toe is still off a bit. Now, the shaking is noticeable at 68-70 mph and higher. Pedal shakes, wheel shakes. I can feel some vibration all over including the seat, gas pedal and wheel the most. Wheel not jerking, just vibrating mildly.
It is not quite as bad as before and does not happen until 68-70, 10 mph higher than before the tire change/balance. I have put my back wheels on the front and it is the exact same condition - this would remove tire and balance as the culprit (?). I also hear an audible hum.. kind of a pulsing sound at 50 mph+. This speeds up and slows down with my speed. For instance if I am going 70.. I hear it every half second, 50 mph I hear it less often. It is pretty faint, not a thump. It seems to be coming from the front but I can't pin-point it. I feel no tire play up/down/side/side.
What is the next step here? I'm going to get the rear toe fixed but this shouldn't be the cause of the pulse/wheel + pedal vibration. Vibration/sound doesn't happen when I am braking. No rubbing shield behind rotor.
Two weeks ago Sun, truck ran fine, however Mon morning all hell broke loose. Truck was running very sluggish and stalling while coming to a stop. My first thought was tune up. I replaced the plugs and wires. During this I found that i could not get a socket around the ever loved driver side rear plug so i was only able to replace 7 plugs however in that process i managed to break the metal coolant tube that runs to the heater core.
Aday later replaced the entire intake manifold,egr valve, egr tube, IAC valve, both coil packs, fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter. During the removal of the intake i looked at the rear spark plug and found that a screw had been wedged into the hole breaking the plug and got it changed now it is all back together and the truck runs amazing however did not solve the low rpms during stopping. ive replace the above and checked fuel pressure which is good.
I have a TPS sensor just haven't installed it yet not sure if it is related to the issue. Tranny guy says it may be a bad solenoid or TC however last night I reset the PCM and drove it it ran flawless. this morning the problem returned which leads me to believe its not the tranny. ok one last kicker that 6 experts have failed to answer when i manually put the truck into 2nd gear the engine dies! no studder no fighting just quits.
Truck is a 98 F150 4.6 V8 186,000 miles i have yet to
1) change TPS.
2) clean throttle body.
3) clean MAF sensor. n
Not sure if any of this has an effect on the issue. There is only a EGR insufficient Air flow code..
I've spent several hours over the course of the last week trying to figure out the problem I am having with my 1999 F150. When coming to a stop, there is a heard and felt "clunk" coming from the rear end of my truck. The other day, I had to brake to a stop rapidly and it felt like something had dropped out of the back end of my truck. It's 4WD with a 5.4L V8 with 240k miles. I have a fair amount of knowledge of the truck, having performed all maintenance and most repair, so if I need to check something and report back I should be able to. Also, I've owned the truck since it was new, and this is a recent development.
View 10 RepliesI am noticing a snap noise that occurs only when I move forward after backing up and braking. I'm thinking it could be either a rear drum not releasing, bad U-joint, or something in the rear end. How do I isolate the cause?
View 2 RepliesWhy does my truck seem to have mostly back brakes? When I slam up the back tires almost always chirp then the abs kicks in I haven't put a set of front brakes on it since I have had it and I've had it for 4 years....
View 1 RepliesI own a 2003 Toyota Camry SE four cylinder sedan with only 46,000 miles. The car has four wheel disc brakes and an anti-skid braking system. About a year ago, I started to notice that there was excessive travel in the brake pedal. That is, the pedal will travel an excessive distance before there is any braking action. I have tried to correct the problem by pumping the brakes as I back out of my driveway to engage the self-adjusting mechanism; doesn't work. I have also gotten in the habit now of pumping the brake pedal; that works a little, but it's not a solution. Being an old chap who always maintained my car myself, and diagnosed and repaired most problems, I concluded that the problem was the master cylinder because when stopped at a light, the brake pedal would continue to go down. Incidentally, there has been no loss of brake fluid since I bought the car new in 2003. Recently, I had the master cylinder replaced and learned that I'm not as car-smart as I thought. There is no improvement in the pedal travel problem.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 2003 F150 sport Scab 4x4 with 75k miles from a Ford dealer with a 4.6l auto. we didn't notice it when we test drove it but it has a squeak when going 0-10 mph in forward or reverse. The story goes a week after getting it home we started noticing a vibration and thudding in the rear end when braking so I take it back to the dealer (50 mile trip 1 way) and when I get there the drivers side rear rim is 30 degrees hotter than the passengers so the tear it apart and find the e-brake was dragging so they lube it up and tell me its good to go. I made it around the building and now I feel it dragging iddling around the parking lot and it is still squeaking so I take it right back in.
Long story short after going through this 2 times that day and bringing it back another day they replaced rear pads, calipers, roters and the hoses going to the caliper and tell me its good to go. Well it no longer had the dragging feel and I had to drive through DC traffic so I beat feet for home and on the way noticed its still sqeaking. I call them and they tell me to put a thousand miles on it and maybe the pads just need to wear in (??). so I took a road trip and 1.2k miles later it still squeaks.
I have tried to tell them it may be the u joints (after searching on here I learned that I am taking it back tomorrow and going to try and get something done but they are still saying its something to do with the brakes and probably won't do the u-joints. Normally, they are filling up the gas tank every trip up there and its all been under warranty (gonna see about getting the warrenty extended tomorrow due to this problem has been ongoing since we got it). Should I just let them run their own course and keep making trips back and forth?
It's a farm truck, lumber getter trailer puller. Not driven often, after sitting for awhile the brakes seem to be pulsing in front like antilock, as if braking on ice. I checked both front caliper springs or plunger slides and they are free not froze up.
View 1 RepliesTruck is a '99 2WD with drum rear brakes. 81K miles. I rebuilt the rear brakes due to a leaking wheel cylinder. The old shoes were not completely gone, but were worn evenly - everything looked normal.
Not a professional wrench, but I've been re-doing my own drum brakes since the '60's, so it is not rocket science to me. Still, as a precaution, I did them one side at a time so as to have reference point, and also snapped a few cellphone pics just to be safe.
Replaced both wheel cylinders, all hardware, and of course the shoes. Gravity bled the cylinders first, followed by the old tried-and-true, wife in the driver's seat, "down-and-hold, now up" routine. Adjusted shoes to just contact drums lightly, and buttoned it up.
The problem is that I'm getting a violent chattering from the rear axle with either light or normal braking. The chattering is worse as the brakes warm up - shakes the whole truck. At first I thought I had a bad rear ABS sensor, but then I did a couple of stops just using the parking brake, and got the same chattering.
Now I've pulled the drums off to re-check. There is nothing loose, nothing out of place, nothing leaking, but there was a heck of a lot of brake dust in there and the lead shoes on both sides were noticeably more worn than the trailing shoes - and I've driven maybe 100 miles since the rebuild.
You can't reverse these shoes, since the trailing shoe has a peg to hold the automatic adjuster, so that is not the issue. The drums were turned less than 1000 miles ago, so I did not have them re-done at this point.
I had my "assistant" partly depress the brake pedal while I had the drums off to confirm that the cylinders were expanding both shoes, and they are.
I have another issue. I just started having problems when braking. Every time I brake there is thing loud grinding noise that sounds like it coming from the back tires but there isn't a squeaking noise like there is where you need new brakes what else could this be??
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 f-150 V6 4.2L 2WD. I've been noticing a few symptoms going on and aren't sure if they're related or not. Firstly, I hooked my code reader to the truck and I have P0453 DTC active: Evaporative Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input. As far as symptoms, truck runs overall pretty well. However, if I shut off the truck after running for awhile and then immediate attempt to start it back up, the starter will spin the flywheel but it won't ignite unless I apply pressure to the gas pedal.
Again, this is only when it's hot. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and have 35 psi when running, and seeing as how I don't really have any other fuel-related issues going on (aside from the DTC, which I'm unfamiliar with, so it may be related??), so I don't think it's a fuel pump or anything issue. Maybe an issue with the TPS? I work on diesel trucks so throttle body systems are foreign and strange to me.