I have a 2000 Ford F150 4x4 extended cab the passenger side head light is very dim try and turn on high beams and it does not react while on low beam the high beam indicator in the cab is on. Where can I look or what is the common problem for this.
View 10 RepliesI'm trying to find out why my truck has a grinding noise on the passenger side when my truck first starts driving for the first 1/4 mile. It stops after that or when I apply the brakes. Do I have a brake sticking or something more serious?
View 1 Replies2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
My 2001 F150 4.6 threw the #3 plug on the passenger side while going down the road at 65 mph. It threaded back in and tightened up to make it the last 7 miles home. I have read that Time serts are the best option but I need this truck daily at work. Has anyone tried using the Heli Coil system as a temporary fix? I am going to order the Time Set kit but since I need the truck now, I was wondering if it were possible to pick up a Heli Coil and insert it until my Time Sert kit arrives?
View 5 Replies2002 F150 FX4 w/ 5.4 Just sprung a new oil leak somewhere and I can't tell where it's coming from. The oil is actually dripping off the frame on the passenger side. It looks like the leak is somewhere at the back of the engine on the passenger side above the bell housing. It's dripping on the frame and running down a little ways before dripping to the ground. I can't get a good visual without removing the inner fenders. It's a pretty good leak that just started yesterday. Not a drop before then. I just had the oil changed within the last couple of days if that works.
View 3 RepliesI have a possible oil leak as the title said and it's a 5.4 triton. I believe I'm seeing oil under the frame on the passenger side. Where the leak is coming from and I know it's not a severe leak it's still concerning and what it could be. 2000 F150 Lariat 5.4 ....
View 4 Replies2003 F150 4.6 - I'm currently replacing the passenger side manifold studs. How the heck do you get to the bottom bolts? Looks like the motor mount is in the way. There's way more room on the 5.4s...
View 4 RepliesI just purchased a 2001 F-150 XLT and while driving it back to town my brother rolled down the window and now it wont go back up! The drivers side works fine, but the passenger side wont roll up using either side of the switches. I know it isnt the motor because neither side would work. What it might be or how I could fix it?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 F150 Lariat Supercrew, and suddenly a bad rattle developed inside the passenger side door. The window still works fine, but I'm afraid it won't much longer. I have taken the panel off, and can reach into one of the supports and mimic the rattle. When you shut the door, it sounds like the glass is going to fall out. I had to replace the motor on the driver's side door a couple of years ago, and I'm hoping to prevent another window sliding down inside the door. How to fix this situation? I haven't been able to feel anything that may have come loose.
View 3 RepliesI'm wondering what is going on with my 2001 F-150's 5.4L Triton engine. Recently it's been making this noise that I can best describe as a "rattle" from the passenger side of the engine. It's not a constant rattle, it comes and goes every few seconds.
It sounds like it's either from the valve cover or timing cover, so I was thinking maybe it's the feared Cam Phaser failure, however the noise doesn't seem to match what I've heard from other videos of confirmed Cam Phaser failures.
I've attached a link to a video of the noise that I made. It also has a lifter tap from the opposite side of the engine that may be noticeable in the video. It has been present since I bought the truck two years ago, it hasn't gotten any worse and it isn't what I'm concerned about.
Video link : [URL] ....
I have a 97 with a 4.6 Triton motor I need to replace the head gasket on the passenger side number 3 is leaking nothing else is wrong with motor so I have it torn down to timing chain cover and ready to remove. do i have to take the drivers side valve cover completely off to take timing chain cover off or can I take to first 2 studs out of the drivers side front valve cover and side the timing cover off. I just want to replace the passenger side head gasket and get rid of truck.
View 6 RepliesAt least this is how I did it after a P0133 code.
The back ground on my truck (see sig) is that I am the second owner (my former neighbor was the first) and it has 293K miles on it at the time of this post. The truck is bone stock FWIW.
I searched the internet and couldn't find a good step by step replacement write up. The front oxygen sensor on the passenger side is hard to get to so here is what I did:
Jacked the truck up and placed jack stands under it. Removed the front passenger tire and the plastic wheel well liner.
Tools needed for this part are a 7/32 socket and a trim tool remover (for the plastic push in fittings).
There are 5 screws and 3 or 4 plastic push retainers (don't know actual term) to remove.
Because of the location of the sensor I had to remove the transmission dipstick tube. *If you do this have a pan or bucket under this area as you are going to lose fluid* the dipstick tube is held place by an 8mm bolt about the middle of the exhaust manifold. Unscrew it and with a little pressure the tube will pop up and out, and so will some fluid.
Wheel well liner out and dipstick tube pulled out of the way.
The connector where you will disconnect the old 02 sensor is tucked up behind the engine block and is kind of hard to get to. A little time and patience and you can get it separated.
From underneath the truck I cut the end off of the old 02 sensor (because the closed end of the wrench wouldn't fit over it) and used a 7/8 box wrench to unloosen the sensor a little at a time until I could get it out with my fingers.
I put the new 02 sensor in finger tight and then tightened it down with small turns of the 7/8 wrench until tight
The cord on the new sensor is longer than the factory one so once reconnected I used zip ties to keep the slack up and away from the hot parts.
New 02 sensor installed and dip stick tube back in place. Note the attachment approx 1/2 down the dipstick tube. It is the 8mm bolt I previously mentioned.
Wheel well back in place. Truck lowered back to the ground.
My '02 F150 just developed an oil leak. It appears to be coming from the passenger side front. I'm just assuming here, but could it more than likely be the timing cover? I'm 150 miles from home and I'm debating on getting the timing cover gasket on my way home tomorrow. Also, if it is the timing cover, what other gaskets should I replace? Pretty sure the water pump oring.
View 1 RepliesI have a f150 with a 5.4L with 354,000 miles on it. It started leaking water somewhere on the front of the motor on the passenger side. it looks like it is under where the heater hose connects to the intake. I guess my question is can the water eat a hole in the intake?
View 1 RepliesTwo weeks ago I was driving home from work and my heat stopped working. I pulled over and saw coolant dripping badly out of the bottom of my truck. I popped the hood and sure enough, coolant was bubbling out of the front passenger side of the intake. I took it to a shop to do the work (quoted at 500-550 out the door with a dorman intake). A week goes by and I get a call from the shop, "After two Dorman Intakes, the truck is not running right", what it could be.
The truck has 367k on it (not sure if original motor). Yesterday I get a call from the owner, " we put the original intake back on and fixed the leak with jb weld. The truck still runs bad. They claim they didnt do anything wrong and will not take any blame for ruining my engine. (Keep in mind the truck ran PERFECT when I took it in there). The truck doesnt throw any codes and they are at a loss of what could have happened. They put in 8 new plugs and 2 coils that they broke while in the process of removing the intake. F150 5.4 ...
2002 F150 Screw... The other day I had a passenger in the truck with me. He tried to roll down the window in subzero weather and the window was frozen shut. The motor overcame the ice and pull the window down but I think a bracket come off the window. Now the window does not go up-and-down straight It is a little cockeyed. I've never tried to get inside the door of my pickup to fix a motor or something like that? How to access it? Once I get in, How do you reattach the glass to the motor and bracket that holds the window?
View 1 Replies99 f150 4.6 4x4 ... auto.. so, driving on the interstate I had to accelerate hard to avoid hitting a crazy driver... after that I smell antifreeze... get home can't find a leak.. wait a bit and I see antifreeze leaking passengers side coming down the firewall outside... if you are laying behind the passengers front tire with your feet to the back tire.. looking up you see the catalytic converter.. behind that on the firewall a stream of antifreeze... follow the stream up and there is a piece of plastic just about were the firewall starts to go straight up from the floorboard bend.. putting my hands in that it goes inside..and its wet inside..
I can't tell what that's for really but. Am I guessing evap coils access? any rate. I don't feel any dampness inside yet.. but I do smell it in the cab stronger now. I haven't ripped up the carpet either. Im suspecting my heater core sprung a leak?? there is a good amount of fluid coming out and down the firewall outside I would say I have about a 6-foot puddle now. course I parked on a hill too. no fluid that I can tell is at all leaking off the heater core hoses.. they felt dry. Im guessing there is a drain port in that black box inside and that is where this is coming out?? no noticeable leak from the motor side.. it's all dry.. its actually going down the firewall and hitting a metal plate that carries out to a cross member on the transmission and then leaking down.. motor area is dry.
I have a 98 F-150 which has a loud knocking at the passenger side valve cover. I am not a mechanic but thought it was a rocker arm knocking. I dropped some oil from the oil pan and did not see and metal shavings. I added some mystery oil but the knocking continued.Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled to a mechanic to check for the problem. He said the oil ports are clogged and oil can not get to the cam shaft and the cam shaft bearings are probably causing the knocking. He said there is no way to fix this problem and I will have to replace the motor.
I called another mechanic and described what the other mechanic described. The 2nd mechanic said it would require a complete tear down of the motor and would be cheaper to replace the motor. I recently bought this truck just to use for hunting and around town since it already has 198k miles on it.
Is there any way to clean the gunk from the oil ports? The truck will still run but just has the loud knocking so I don't let it run for more that a couple minutes. I have been reading many opinions for sludge blocking the oil passages and am considering removing the valve cover gasket and filling with diesel and let sit for 24 hours then repeat then put in fresh oil and filter. Maybe this will clean the blocked passages.
I have a 2001 Screw 4x4 that had a bad valve on the passenger side. I got the head rebuilt and put it all back together. Now it has a pretty bad oil leak at the rear of the engine. I thought it was the valve cover gasket but when I took it off the gasket was right where it's supposed to be. I pulled the starter and it seems to be leaking out of the new head gasket. What could I have done wrong? The thing runs perfect now but it's dripping oil like crazy so I had to have done something wrong. I used an OEM head gasket from the dealer and torqued the new head bolts to 30 ft-lbs and then went another 90 turn twice just like the book said.
View 14 RepliesHave a 1998 F-150....heard a strange noise coming from the front passenger side of the truck. Parked and turned the wheel and heard something fall off. It appears to be a shield of some sort.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).