Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: P0306 And P0174 Codes - Engine Overheating And Coolant Reservoir Dry
Nov 11, 2014
I have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.
Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:
=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.
After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.
After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:
=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.
I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.
Next things I'm looking at replacing:
=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets
I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.
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2001 F150 5.4L Triton Motor. Everything seemed o.k. then got the Engine Service Light. Checked with reader and above codes only appeared. Read numerous articles/videos and pulled the PCV hose/boot assembly and replaced the whole thing with oem part. Visually checked for disconnected tubing = none found. After this and with the new hose assembly in place I performed a reset. With the scanner still connected restarted engine and read values: ST FTRM1&2 = -.08~+2.3, both oxygen sensor voltages are varying and the LT FTRM1&2 hang around +26 and +28.
From what I understand the ST seems o.k. but the long term is WAY OUT OF WHACK. Started it up again and took carb cleaner spray and covered all the connections I could see = no change in engine rpm. No cracks in the air cleaner body. Big plug to the MAF was inserted and plugging the hole. I am thinking of making a smoke "machine" and trying that or removing the hoses from the throttle body and plugging the holes in the throttle body and see if that clears them up. IF it does then connect one by one and keep checking the values. Lot more work but I am at a loss.
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05 2 wheel drive f150xl 4.2 l 135,000 miles. Smoking white out of exhaust. More at start up but doesn't go away. Turns a little blue. When parked at idle if I bring up the RPM's quick I will get a little puff of black in the white smoke. I can't smell or taste(when I touch my fingers to mouth) any anti freeze in the exhaust smoke but I live in Myrtle Beach and I have little if any anti freeze in the coolant. I flushed the motor, changed oil and filter and added a can of seafoam. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it. I also replaced the air filter because I went down a dirt road and hit a deep water hole. Dirt and mud got into the air filter and by passed it also. This was the reason for the engine flush also. I can't recall any smoke before this. Maybe a puff on start up from moisture not sure. Im going to buy a coil pack and plugs and start from there. I have never had this many codes.
P0174 Bank system 2 to lean P0300 random multipl Lean mil. Missfire detected P0305 random multiple Missfire detected cylinder 5 misfire P0306 cylinder 6 Missfire P0316 Missfire detected on start up first 1000 revolution
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I have a 99 f150 with the 4.2l v6 with a 5 speed 173000 miles. I picked it up not to long ago. When I first got it it had both the P0171 & P0174 lean on bank 1&2 it was also siting for a while. I replaced the fuel filter which was filled with black fuel, also changed the PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, and changed the oil. I cleared the code, drove it for a little bit and the light came back on after 20 miles.
I then proceeded to replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. Upon doing that i noticed that i was missing one of the linkages for the IMRC. I went to the junkyard and pulled off another linkage rod off the same motor. ordered new plastic clips, put the IMRC on cleaned everything up and began putting it back together. I also cleaned the Injectors while i had them out as well and put in new spark plugs and wires.
Put everything back together. code was cleared since the battery was disconnected. drove it and then the engine light came back on again. this time it was only the p0174. so i then both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors on bank 2, reset the code and it came back on again. I'm lost.
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2002 F150 - 5.4 ... So just bought this truck about a month an a half ago. No problems but the other day the SES came on. It is showing P0171 and P0174. And P0000 (almost forgot that one) was told that's generic though. Haven't really noticed a difference in the way it's running. Has been extremely cold here in WV but the only thing I can notice (or think I notice) is the gas mileage has gone down a little. After reading some on this forum I'm looking for a vacuum leak correct?
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2003 f150 5.4, 4x4 ... Truck is shaking pretty bad, idle bounces between 500 and 750, and its throwing p0172 (rich on bank 1), P0174 (lean on bank 2), and it looks like a misfire on cylinder 8 judging by that power graphy thingy. I'm going to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow on the PCV.
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I have a 99 Ford F-150 Lariat. I am smelling oil in my coolant reservoir. I have looked all over the engine and do not see any leaks. I do not see any oil on the ground. The truck does not overheat so I don't know how it is getting in. My engine runs great. What can be causing this problem?
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I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
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I have a 2003 F150 4.6l triton v8.... I started over heating yesterday. Got home, let it cool down and found Oil in Coolant. No coolant in oil or transmission fluid. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2003 F150 4.6 Triton V8.... My truck started over heating again after replacing the Thermostat and Water Pump later this summer.... Well I checked Coolant and I have Oil in the Coolant. I see Nothing wrong with the Tranny Fluid and see nothing wrong with the Oil.... What could be the problem??????
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Had overheating issue with the wife (she doesn't monitor fluid levels like she should). Now you can't operate it for more than a day or two before the reservoir is super low to empty. Mechanic coolant is going into the engine, probably through the intake manifold. Says investigating further will cost a ton. What can I do cheaply to figure out what's going on before I give up? I followed her when the engine was started from cold & could see water vapor (more than I would expect) in the exhaust until when I figure the engine reached full operating temp. It has about 225k and is the 6 cyl engine, btw.
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I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gage creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gage shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (cannot squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the waterpump is working. Also the fan is running fast. The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow. Looking for solutions to my problem.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Celica I think I may have overheating problems every time i stop after driving a little while i can hear a boiling noise from where you put your coolant in and when i open it there is steam coming from the black hose that goes in it.
The funny thing is when i am driving the temperature gauge stays at 1/2 way and never passes it, also sometimes when i stop green and a bit clear liquid leaks on the ground on the side where the battery is.
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2003 Sport Trac. My car was not starting, told my fuel pump, replaced twice and nothing. Found out about inertia switch and changed it, now car runs.
Before this switch blew out my car was running perfectly, no check engine, nothing. Now i have changed my fuel pump twice and put a brand new fuel filter in and soon after i get lean codes P0171 and P0174. My fuel pressure is 60psi at idle and drops to 0 after about 30 seconds when the car is shut off.
A lot of my intake is new since i did have a vacuum leak before, so i do not suspect that is it, especially since this happened after the new fuel pump. I am completely stuck as to what i should do. And i get hesitation when trying to accelerate sometimes
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with a 2001 Neon motor in it. I have just recently had problems with the car overheating. So we started diagnosing it and replaced parts that we thought were wrong. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and timing belt. The problem that I am having is that the car won't take coolant out of the reservoir tank. I have bled the air out of the cooling system and it still didn't fix the problem.
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I have a 92 Plymouth Voyager, which I just got back from my son. He was driving it in Seattle for awhile, until it overheated. He had a new radiator and new thermostat put in, but it still overheated. I towed it back to my place to see if my daughter and I could get it running. The new radiator he had put in was leaking from a seam around the top. We replaced that with a new radiator.
I drove around for about 60 to 70 miles, into town and back. No problem. Today my wife and daughter took it to town and only made it about 2/3 of the way before it started to overheat. Daughter discovered a hole in the coolant reservoir. But I am still not sure what could be the reason for the overheating. I did replace the water pump about three years ago. What I can do to possibly repair this problem?
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I've got an '03 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC that I got for a deal on craigslist as it needed timing chain tensioners. I got that all done and it runs and drives relatively well, but it idles a little bit rough - especially when it's sitting in gear at a stop light. My go-to first attempt for idling issues is to squirt off the MAF sensor, throttle body, and squirt some starter fluid around the vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks (though it's possible I may have missed a line or two). Neither seemed to work much. I cleared the codes, dumped some Sea Foam and fresh fuel in it and drove it around a little bit and it threw the CEL light, got about 10 mpg, and generally just didn't seem to have as much power as it should (though I have no experience with the 4.0 in a explorer, soI'm not counting that as a hard fact).
I pulled the codes and I've got a:
P2196 (O2 sensor stuck rich - bank 1 sensor 1)
(and)
P0174 (system too lean - bank 2)
That seems kinda weird to me. Bank 1 is rich and bank 2 is lean? That would make it idle and run weird, for sure, but I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out what would cause that. I think my next step would be to check/replace the plugs, but that's more of a shot in the dark than a proper diagnosis.
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So my 99 F-150, 4.2L started throwing a code a few weeks ago, P0306 #6 Cyl Misfire. This thing has got 238,000 and has been the most reliable commute vehicle I've owned.
Today I changed all the plugs and wires (they were due anyways) which didn't resolve the issue. After clearing the code, got about 3 miles out and it came back. Running SeaFoam through the system on this tank as well, but I'm leaning towards an EGR blockage like what is described here:
Sparky's Answers: 1999 Ford F150, P0306 Misfire Cylinder #6
I was about to buy a new coil pack but I'd rather not continue to throw parts at this, as I've read many others do with this same exact situation, only to end up with the same code. I've replaced the coil pack once already a few years ago when I lost a cylinder on the way to work.
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I was driving my 2008 Santa Fe last week (before I went on vacation) and noticed the the A/C wasn't coming through quite a cool as usual (almost felt like the vent was on w/ no AC). Then after about 10 minutes of driving I noticed the thermostat on the car get to about the 3/4 line pretty close to the red lines.
Luckily I was home so turned the car off and popped open the hood. I noticed the reservoir tank was empty and there was some coolant that dripped down on the fans & a small pool of coolant on the engine block right under where the oil is poured. (nothing has been dripping under the car)
I added a little coolant to the reservoir tank and the next time I turned it on and let it run for ~10 minutes, it was the same thing.
Anyway, I came back from vacation and opened the hood to try and identify exactly where the leak was, and ran the car for ~30 minutes, with A/C on full blast and the car didn't overheat or leak anywhere. Coolant tank was still full from when I filled it the first time.
What could have caused the leak/overheating in the first place?
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I have 2001 Nissan Xterra SE 3.3L V6. A few weeks ago my car started to overheat while going through the grapevine (mountain pass in SoCal). After filling it up with coolant, I took it to the shop. They couldn't figure out what exactly was the problem. It passed the block test and such. They said the top hose was swelling up as if something was blocking it. They also said my car was going through about a gallon of coolant. They replaced the water pump, thermostat, and the top hose. they also replaced the timing belt.
After driving the car for an hour, it started to overheat again. This time, I took it to the Nissan dealership. They said the timing belt was off by 2 teeth and they think that's why it overheated, so they fixed that problem. They also did a cooling system test and found no leaks.
I got the car back and it still overheats. After the turn off the car, I see coolant being bubbling back into the reservoir almost to the top. Also, my radiator was replaced about a year ago.
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