Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: P/S Whine And Motor Won't Stay Running - OD Light On Column Shifter Flashes
Jan 13, 2016
2000 XLT ext cab 4.6 4x4 auto .. Having a couple of problems in below freezing weather when temps are below 30 deg F.
1. I have the usual P/S whine, but when starting up a cold engine, the whine is extremely loud and the motor won't stay running. It starts and immediately dies. I have to give it a little gas to keep it running. It only takes a few seconds until the whine dies down, then it idles fine. Should I just replace the P/S pump or is there something else I need to look at?
2. Again, with a cold engine, when I start driving, the OD light on the column shifter flashes. It flashed for quite a while. The tranny worked fine, though. No problems shifting. I was told that I have to have the dealer read the code and it can only be done when its flashing. Is this true? I'd rather not spend the $$ if its something I can take care of myself. I did change the tranny filter and that worked some. Now the light flashes for about 2-3 minutes then it goes away.
Like I said, these problems are only on days when its below freezing and once the truck is warm, everything works fine.
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Got a buddy with a 98 white f150 with the 5.4 motor. It will start up and idle fine but if you try to drive it it has no power what so ever. What it could be?
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I have a 2000 f150, the overdrive light flashes on the swifter, the motor has no power and sputters unless I put it in second gear. It won't shift gears in drive.
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98 f150 4x4 5.4... So i purchased this truck about 3 months ago and now I am having problems putting it in Park. The column shifter is very loose and sloppy. Is there any way to rebuild this?
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ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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This truck has been running fine then as my son was getting off the interstate it started acting like it was running out of gas then died. I went to tow him in and it cranked right up and never had another problem for a week. Yesterday he drove 80 miles away when the same thing happened shortly after he got off the interstate. He replaced the fuel filter which it probably needed but still won't start and stay running. It cranks right up the immediately dies.
First time this happened it was throwing codes PO171 and PO174. Now it is not showing any DTC's at all and none pending. We see no frayed or bad wires and all vacuum hoses seem fine. He cleaned the MAF with no change in behavior.... If it were an outboard motor or some kind of boat I'd say the problem is in the ignition switch except it does run a very short time before dying. If I immediately try to restart it won't stay running. If I let it sit for a while then it will run for about a half minute.
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I have a 2001 F150 4.2 V6. Three days ago, I noticed the Theft light blinking while driving. At first, there was no issues with performance, although the blinking was most noticeable just as I tapped the accelerator at cruising speed.
I thought it may temporarily disconnect the battery, which I did. After hooking it back up, I went for a test drive. About five miles into the drive I picked up an intermittent, though somewhat steady skip--almost like a plug wire. Shortly thereafter, the flashing light returned.
I'm not sure if the two problems are connected (the light and skip) or if it's just a coincidence.
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2003 F150, 5.4 FX4, overdrive light flashes. Took to a shop they said overheating issue, but I don't understand if it is a overheating issue why does I flash at 4 in the morning when I leave for work fter sitting all night and why does it stop when I do over 70 on the highway.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 200k miles. I have no spark and no gas at the fuel rail Schrader valve. I have replaced the shaft pos sensor, no start. I have checked the fuses and the relays. I have crawled under truck and listen for the fuel pump to turn on while someone turned the key to on and heard nothing. I have 2 keys and while turning the key to on and start, the THEFT lite flashes. I have checked the impact sensor on the passing sick panel, it hasn't been tripped.
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I got a 1999 f150 if you put shifter in gear the overdrive light comes on. When you put it back in park the light goes out.
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I own a 2000 f-150 7700 series with a 4in body lift. recently Ive had a problem starting (I believe it is from the shifter not recognizing im in park) but now my theft light flashes at me and there is a weird sound that sounds like a relay from under my steering column when i roll my windows down, move shifter around or turn on 4x4. also my radio stays one every once in a while after the key is turned all the way back to off, and windows wont roll down after i hear the relay sound. Ive read to tighten shifter linkage and will do that tomorrow to see if that fixes it.
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My 2001 f150 is not starting up. The anti theft light flashes and then eventually slows down and flashes one time, pauses and then flashes two more times. The odometer still shows my mileage as I know some people with this issue just get dashes. I know there are passive anti theft codes that can indicate what is wrong but cant find a chart with any info for all the codes. I'm going to assume my pats transceiver module is shot. Or maybe the key simply needs to be reprogrammed? I checked fuses, relays, etc and didn't see any that were blown. What could be causing it? Or maybe there's a relay I forgot to check out.
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I have an intermittent security system issue. I sometimes get a dotted line in odometer and rapidly flashing theft light.
Crank no start. After a time, the theft light flashes a code of 1 then 4. Research gives me the result that PCM did not power up.
Have pulled gauges. Fixed known cold solder joint issue. Checked all connectors and reinstalled. Truck starts fine about 7/10 tries.
I have replaced battery terminals. Removed cleaned and replaced all firewall grounds. Checked harness connection blocks and PCM connector. Made sure all under hood fuses and relays working.
Currently sitting in a parking lot waiting for it to decide to start again. Only one chipped key. Where to look next? 1999 F150 xlt 6 cylinder.
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My 96 cherokee 4.o is having trouble. the motor is cranking but will not stay running unless i am pouring gas directly into the butterfly valve. it runs great while i am pouring gas into it, but it sputters out and dies once i stop. i checked to pressure in the fuel rail and gas will come out of the valve however the pressure gauge doesn't have any response. it feels like the fuel pump.
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I have a 2004 Subaru Outback. This fall I started having intermittent problems starting the car. It would run like a champ, no problems. Then every once in a while when I would try to start it, typically happens after it has sat all night, it would turn over just fine, motor would catch, then the motor would quit running (almost immediately upon start). It is kind of like the old days when your carburetor was not adjusted quite right and you would have to keep one foot on the brake the other on the gas while stopped at a stop light to keep the motor running.
The first time it happened we added "heat" as we thought it might be water in the gas line somewhere. It started, then ran just fine. This winter the problem started recurring more frequently. We added injector cleaner, it seemed to work a bit, but did not solve problem. We took it to the shop, and they could not figure out what was going on as nothing is registering on the computer and the car would start just fine for them. Brought the car home it worked OK for a week or so, then started up again.
The motor would catch then would quit running almost immediately. We were able to get it running good enough to get it to the shop (kept one foot on gas at stop lights, etc so would not kill). My car has been at the shop for two weeks now. It finally misbehaved on their watch, and they replaced a sensor, but they are not sure it fixed anything. They are keeping it so see if they can get a better diagnosis.
My first thought was the gas pump, but they said they had never seen a subaru gas pump fail and usually when a pump goes out, it goes out. They thought it could be electrical, but not sure as the problem is so intermittent. I would like to get my car fixed and back home. It's a great car; when it is running it runs great. The shop we work with is very good, and they are reluctant to start just replacing parts if it is not going to fix the problem.
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The cruise control quit working on my 2007 Town and Country. The indicator light in the instrument cluster flashes but won't stay on. If I have the ignition switch on but the engine off the light will come on and stay on.
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I have a 03 GLI 24V VR6 6 speed and im having an issue with the brake light.. ive checked all the fuses and emergency brake sensor and they are all good, the issue is the brake light flashes 3 times then will stay on almost immediately and whenever it does the entire drive of the car changes.. without the light on the car runs fine but when it comes on its like the car goes to a limp mode and is leaning out on fuel.. it wont rev past 4k it falls on its face and basically jerks along until I get where I am going.. I've replaced ABS speed sensors, MAF, and front brakes and axles recently.. before this was an random issue that would come and go but now its almost every time and it makes it undriveable..
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I have a 2012 F150 screw xlt ecoboost with a column shifter. It does not lock out when the car is parked and key removed.
I bought the truck used and didn't give it much thought considering everything is electronic these days. Then this weekend my 2 year old was sitting in the front seat while I was loading my bicycle on the back and the truck rolled forward a little. Needless to say, It just became priority number one to get fixed.
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Truck is an 03 F350 with the 6.0. It sometimes sounds like the shift motor on the transfer case is trying to engage. It has the vacuum system which is blocked off. Warn aftermarket hubs. Switch on the dash with 2wd, 4wd and 4 low.
It's kind of an off and on thing. Try to engage for a few or more seconds then nothing for awhile then repeat. It sounds like it's at the transfer case. It could very well be coming from firewall/engine bay area as well. Is there anything between the dash switch and the motor?
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Recently noticed when driving, I'll hear and feel a slight clicking noise coming from my steering column. I can be going straight or turning. it is intermittent. I've look underneath and nothing seems obvious. when the truck is in park, I've tried to manhandle the steering wheel, the steering wheel is solid. the truck is a 1998 f150xl v6.
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I've been having problems with my column shifter ever since I installed a Pioneer shift cable probably about 3 years now. I was told and also thought that the cable would loosen up after awhile but it never has. I had some put it on and I watched him do it. He seemed to have some trouble because it took him a long time under the dash. It shifts so stiff that over a period of about 2 years it finally broke the end of the shift tube one night. Luckily I was able to fix it the next day by getting a spare without missing any down time. It was still just as stiff with the other shift tube. It finally broke the plastic on my shifter tonight, not necessarily whatever is causing it but because it takes so much effort to shift into Park, Reverse or Drive.
I think the plastic may have cracked over time. Luckily I had another one at home along with another shift tube. I didn't replace the shift tube this time but I did remove the caps and smear some grease on the bushings to see if it would make it turn. I looked further down at the end cap that broke last time and sure enough one of the bolts was backed almost all the way out. I retightened it tonight too. That's what happened when the bottom broke last time. One of those bolts backed out and it cracked the housing. It works now but if you go all the way to 1st to get back to anywhere it really takes a tremendous amount of effort to get it to shift. Something is not right and I cannot pinpoint it. I know they offer brand new shift tubes but I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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