I am having a problem with the clutch fan not coming on at high temps pulling a grade or flat. Replaced the clutch had the front of the radiator removed and all the debris blown out and replaced the thermostat. Still over heating and the fan comes on real late.
View 1 RepliesI bought this truck for work and all of a sudden it will rev real high when I press the clutch in to switch gears or when sitting at a light. I stopped at a parking lot and popped the hood and tried to pull the throttle back by hand but it will not go. There is a lil slack in the throttle cable but when the truck is off and I manually pull the throttle back it returns normally.
I was wondering if the little black electronic box opposite where the throttle hooks to the throttle body is making it rev so high? I really don't know a lot about these newer trucks as I have driving older trucks my whole life so probably using wrong terms...
Have a noise coming from the serpentine area. Sometimes it's a bit of a chirping, other times it's almost like a solid grind.
I pulled the belt off and the idler pulley had a bit of play so I replaced that. The tensioner pulley felt fine. I'm suspecting the fan clutch, as the noise only appears after the clutch has disengaged the fan (although it could be this is just masking the other noise because I've got a heavy duty / loud fan clutch setup).
How can I be sure that the fan clutch is the culprit before replacing it?
What kind of engine oil temps are too high? I know pulling the other day it got as high as 220 but I honestly only have the gauge cause I got it for free. Whats happening at the different temps? I know for trans fluid but not for engine oil..
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
View 2 Replies2004 F-150 heritage : 12 degrees F yesterday. clicked (firewall solenoid) but starter was not pulling amps. After putting a jumper pack on it, after about 30-40 clicks it took off, never to work again.....towed it home with a rope.
2000 F-250 Super Duty : 7 degrees F today, did the same except you could tell the starter was pulling amps. Took a lot of clicks and engaged but I let off too quick, another bunch of clicks and it started. Once I moved it, I tried it a bunch more and it seemed to work, however I do not trust it.
2001 Crown Victoria : 7 degrees F today, the first turn of the key was nothing but a click, and the 2nd turn it worked fine. After moving it worked a bunch more times.
Whats up with the cold temps and the starters?
On a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
View 7 Replies2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
View 14 RepliesMy '97 Honda Civic overheats when driven at high speed on the highway for more than an hour. I've changed the thermostat and the radiator fan, but it still does it.
View 15 Replies'01 F150 XLT 5.4L EFI 207,000 miles
I've had this truck since '03 @ 45,000 mi and have loved it ever since. It hasn't failed me yet, until now. Living in TX with no A/C is the pits,
He first replaced the large hose assembly (with a non Motorcraft part) due to a pinhole then recharged the system. It cooled great until the pressure pop off valve (or whatever it's called) blew all the freon out.
His first suspicion was the fan clutch, which was replaced with a motorcraft fan clutch. Next he used his a/c machine to evacuate/flush/recharge the system - problem persisted. Lastly, he cleaned the radiator and condenser fins and recharged again. The system still overheated and lost the freon.
While the freon is in the system it cools like never before but after driving it, parking for a while, then re-starting it overheats within minutes.
I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gauge creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gauge shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (can not squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the water pump is working. Also the fan is running fast.
The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow.
I have a 2003 F150 4.6l triton v8.... I started over heating yesterday. Got home, let it cool down and found Oil in Coolant. No coolant in oil or transmission fluid. What could be wrong?
View 2 Replies1999 F150, 6 cyl. 4.2L, 233,000 miles. My temp gauge went way high on the interstate so I assumed I had a bad thermostat. replaced it with a genuine Ford themostat, added coolant and here's where I'm at.
1. Let it idle up to operating temp. When it was warm, the heater was blowing cold air.
2. Thermostat opened up, top radiator hose was hot and full of coolant, still no heat in cab.
3. Took it for a ride on the hwy. Heat started to work in cab, temp gauge went way up. I slowed down and went home down a side road. Temp gauge went back to normal and stayed there. Only driving about 30 mph.
I don't get why I'm overheating at 60mph. My best guess is I have some sort of obstruction in the cooling system.
I have a 2003 F150 4.6 Triton V8.... My truck started over heating again after replacing the Thermostat and Water Pump later this summer.... Well I checked Coolant and I have Oil in the Coolant. I see Nothing wrong with the Tranny Fluid and see nothing wrong with the Oil.... What could be the problem??????
View 4 RepliesNew 6.0 owner having some issues. I have read just about everything I can find on the ECT/EOT problem.
208K on it, its been studded, running a full banks system. Factory size tires. Since buying it I have drained and flushed with distilled 4 times before new ELC coolant (system looks very clean, no debris found at all), T6 oil change and cleaned the air filter.
I am having a large delta on ECT and EOT. Here's some data from today's run. There is a lot of it. Readings from every minute.
Ambient Temp 118 today, took it for a run up the highway cruised north at 65 mph and back south at 75mph. I was driving on Saturday at 75mph and got the wrench light for excessive delta with 232 degree EOT.
45mph on the way to the Freeway- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
65mph after accelerating lightly- ECT 197.6, EOT 216.4
10 miles later, flat 65mph cruise set, it maintained a reasonable temp hold and reached max of ECT 199.4, EOT 218.7
After 2 minutes of coasting down off-ramp and sitting at a light- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
after reaching 75MPH moderately- ECT 201.2, EOT 216.5
1 mile later, holding 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 220.2
2 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 224.6
3 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 225.2
4 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 226.4
5 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 227.3
6 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 228.2
7 miles at 75mph- ECT 206.6, EOT 228.5
8 miles at 75mph - ECT 208.4, EOT 231.0
At this point I dropped cruised and coasted to the next exit, a mile down.
After coasting to exit and sitting for a minute- ECT 201.2, EOT 221.0
After a mile at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 221.6
2 miles at 45mph, lightly on throttle- ECT 204.8, EOT 221.0
After idling stopped for a few minutes- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.8
Driving again lightly at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 211.5
Am I just ignoring the obvious oil cooler issue or is this a water pump, etc? I changed out the thermostat again for another motorcraft unit after Saturdays hot run. I swear it did not run this hot when I got it... but I question if they were running nearly 100% water in the system. What EGR cooler there is, if there is a way to tell without disassembly?
It's been pretty smooth sailing since I installed my BPD oil cooler a couple months ago, oil temps are great now. However, in the last month or so, since the outside temps have gotten hot, I'm noticing that my coolant temps seem to be a little higher than they should. I put a new Ford thermostat in it back in the fall when I flushed the coolant system and refilled with EC1 coolant. The temps I'm seeing range from 206 up to 222 and I have seen as high as 230 when I was going up a long grade on a hot day. This is not towing.
The fan does kick on like it should, or at least I think its working properly. When the temp gets to 210-212 I can hear the fan a little, when the temp gets to 219 I can really hear the fan. It usually cools it back down pretty quick unless I'm headed up a long grade. Am I wrong in thinking these temps are too high for a 192 degree stat? My worst fear of course is head gaskets even though I don't have any other HG symptoms. No coolant loss, no puking. What other things should I check first? A new thermostat would be easy enough but I don't know if that would be the issue or not.
Truck runs cool when driving around town about 177. Get on the highway and the temp goes to about 195, go up a mountain pass she climbs to about 210 and I feel that If I dont back off the gas the truck will overheat because the temp just keeps climbing. Go down the highway again on a flat stretch of highway and it drops to 195, get into town temp drops to 177 and even lower when i just let the truck idle.
Truck has a brand new 195 thermostat, fan clutch is only a month old, water pump is about 2 years old, this truck has had head gasket issues in the past but every year I put in the bars stuff and have not had a problem with it since, I started doing the bars stuff about 4 years ago. This is the stuff you flush the system first with not the pour in stuff. 1997 f150 4.6l
2003 F-150 Supercrew w/4.6 V-8, 2-wheel drive, 219,000 miles and very well maintained. I'm getting an intermittent overheat condition that I can't figure out. Coolant level is good and I just replaced the thermostat. My OBDII app showed it running at a constant 207 degrees (195 thermostat) after the thermostat. Appears to have good pressure at the cap. It ran great for 30 minutes at idle and then did fine for a five mile test drive.
The next day in the morning it overheated within 3 miles of the house (heat was on) and you could smell it. Pulled over and let it sit for 20 minutes and started back up and it stayed constant at 207 all the way to work (11 miles). It sat at work for about 7 hours and ran great all the way home (without heat, with heat, with air cond). Then this morning it did it again, overheating about 3 miles from home. This time I pulled over and shut it off for about three minutes. Turned the key on without starting and the temp was already dropping again. So I started it up and it continued to drop down so I drove to work with no more issues. This afternoon again went home and it never overheated.
I'm expecting it to overheat again in the morning. I'm gonna go live on the OBDII for temps during the drive tomorrow.
I own a 2000 F150 4.2L (I think off the top of my head) v6 XL model. For the past couple of years I've had an issue with overheating. So far I've had the following replaced:
Radiator
Thermostat
Radiator Cap
Water Pump
The intake manifold has been repaired, that was the first item to have some work done to it. The shop I took it to said the coolant hose that runs into the manifold was corroded at the entrance to the manifold. They stated there was no way to actually replace the hose, but they gave me two options:
1. replace the entire manifold or
2. cap the existing entrance port, drill a hole into the manifold next to the port, and run a new hose.
I chose the cheaper option which I suspect is part of the problem. Now to the problem.
I can drive around town all day long no problems even in 100+ degree Oklahoma summer heat. I left it idling on the side of a street for 2 hours during summer and no problems. The moment I get the truck to 55mph it starts to overheat. Not just overheat, but peg completely out in just over a mile after hitting 55mph.
Once I drop the truck down to about 40mph the temp starts to lower, but will fluctuate between normal and 3/4 to max.
What I need to look at? I've been told head gaskets, but there's no leaks and no water in the oil. I've been told to replace the engine, which if I could afford that I could afford a down payment on a new truck. It's a bit frustrating at best.
I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited, ~180,000 miles. It has been a good car but we've run into some problems the last few months. About a month ago we were driving back from vacation and experienced a loud belt squeal from the engine. Had a nearby mechanic look at it -- turned out it was a timing belt pulley which we had to have replaced.
Now, a couple weeks ago, the day after getting my fluids changed, I was driving over the mountain on another, shorter, trip and experienced sudden overheating - steam coming out from the radiator - lots of discouraging gurgling and clunking sounds as liquid moved around. Had to have it towed 40 miles back home.First thought being a Subaru person -- head gasket. A couple of mechanics nearby when I was broken down on the side of the road gave that as a preliminary diagnosis as well.
Unfortunately, we were leaving for a week on another trip, so I had to wait to have my car looked at until we got back -- about 2 weeks. Now my regular mechanic takes a look -- he says it isn't the head gaskets, but a hold corroded in the bottom of the radiator that the coolant is just pouring out of. Also the fans aren't working. F
I have heard that most people get their radiators replaced before it becomes clear that it is a head gasket issue. So I am very nervous that this issue is actually a head gasket and that for whatever reason my normal mechanic can't find the signs for because it was sitting for two weeks, or for some other reason. He's not a Subaru specialist. I asked specifically that he check the head gaskets and he says no oil in coolant, coolant in oil or sweet smell from tailpipe.
I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gage creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gage shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (cannot squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the waterpump is working. Also the fan is running fast. The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow. Looking for solutions to my problem.