Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Oil Pressure Gauge Drops To Zero
Feb 26, 2013
I have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
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I have a 2003 4.6l f150 164000 miles. While back oil pressure dropped to 0. Then chattering. Then up then down. I changed the oil and filter, then flushed the motor, then changed the oil and filter again. 1500 miles, no problems, no chatter. Then all of a sudden it happens again. Oil level good and clean. Oil pump?Pick up tube?
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I've got a '98 F150.throwing codd 402, excessive flow EGR, also the oil pressure drops to absolute zero only when gear shifts but comes right back up. No knocking or other distress sounds in engine. I know I'm in need of an oil change. I already searched a bit and decided to swap out the DPFE sensor which I did purchase from the dealership. No code as of yet but what could that pressure drop be? Could a simple il change and filter fix that?
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'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
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1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
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I changed the sending unit and replace the oil filter with a motorcraft unit and still can't get the oil gauge to read pressure. Since it is a gear oil pump I don't believe it is the pump.
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2002 F150, 4.6 V8, 140k miles. Oil level good, oil was changed 2 months ago.
Driving along one day, out of the blue oil pressure light comes on, oil pressure gauge went to zero.
Engine did not run hot, no bad engines noises that I can hear.
Upon restart, oil pressure will be up on the gauge for minute or so, then goes to zero and oil light comes on.
Asked around, some say oil pump, some say oil filter or pickup tube.
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Just recently got a sweet deal on an 01 Lariat with a very low mileage 5.4L. I almost didn't purchase it because the oil pressure gauge will not read when you start the engine. Sometimes it will sometimes not.
When it does read, it is just past half which is the normal reading. When it doesn't read, it shows zero and the light is on. The engine runs fine either way, and the previous owner said it has been that way for years. The engine has been well cared for, and has been running Mobile 1 full synthetic for most of the 80k miles. The oil was not overly dirty at purchase, so I figured it to be a loose connection. I suffer from the cold solder joints that these trucks are plaqued with, as evident by the intermittent odometer reading. Do you think the oil gauge issue is the same thing? A cold solder joint? Or should i just start with a new sender?
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My launch scanner reported a bad oil pressure switch, but I've replaced that, and when I did the oil pressure light went away, but my gauge still didn't work. Could it be a faulty switch? Or is it common for gauges to stop working on these fords seeing how there's a resistor to trick the gauge from the factory anyway? If I smack my dash the gauge will raise and lower. But I think that's normal.
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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I have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder that has 79,896 miles on it. I have done a lot of warranty repair to the car (transmission, radiator, oil leaks and other fun stuff). My latest problem is when the car is running for more that 20 minutes and I slow down or press on the brakes my oil pressure gauge drops to L. I have taken it to two dealers one -- said that the 'pressure was in normal range" and could not do a thing and the other fixed a leak in the oil cooler and replaced the seals behind the manifold. This still has not fixed the problem. At this point they feel there is nothing else they can do but this is not normal.
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I have an 03 Explorer that had a starting issue. Long story short, it had no fuel pressure. So after testing the relay, I switched out the pump with an Airtex unit . All seemed fine...for a while.
Became hard to start again, checked Schrader valve with the key on, and not running, no pressure. Strange though, it would run.
So got the fuel pressure gauge on it. Turn the key and pressure will go to about 5-10psi and then drop to zero. Turn key off and on again, up to 5-10psi, then drop to zero. Turn the key to start and pressure goes up to 10psi, then starts, then goes to 30 while running and you can drive it around. Shut off motor and pressure goes down to zero.how the sending unit is supposed to hold fuel pressure and not release it? Is there some kind of check valve in the sending unit assembly that can be cleaned or does it need a whole sending unit with another pump? I already spent the $100 for the pump, and it is working if you can drive it!
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177,000 miles, fuel pump was replaced just before I purchased it a few weeks ago. Truck has been running like new until today when it started doing this completely out of the blue. If you watch the video, the sound is not off, the tach is moving independently of the sound of the actual revs. Occasionally when doing this, the fuel gauge drops to zero. Thinking this is an electrical issue somewhere.
YouTube.....
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I have had several issues getting to where I am now. The Neutral safety switch (MLPS) is new. The tranny has been rebuilt with new TC installed as well. The truck shifts out fin 1-2-3-4 until I hit 57mph. At 57 the od drops out and will not reengage until I drop down below that speed. I ran a diagnostic test on the TPS with my multi-meter and it all was in range on the voltages and was smooth through throttle movement etc.
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So my 99 F150 never got great MPG, but at least she was between 12 and 14 pretty consistently. However, she's spent a lot of time sitting, and now the MPG is right at 8. 9 or higher would be shocking. Any guess as to why this is? I know that engines need to be run now and again, but I can't beat 20+ MPG in my car and 40+ on my motorcycle, so she sits. I try to take her out once a month for a good drive to get everything heated up and moving and to burn any condensation that got in the oil. She's got fresh oil (not even 500 miles and 6 months), clean air filter, and fresh plugs and wires. I've also treated the gas with Sta-Bil at the proper mixture.
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So I have a 1997 ford f150 v8 4.6 2w... I got codes p0171 and 174 my truck seems fine till the idle drops, it's weird when I have it on park it's fine if I turn the wheel left the idle drops when the ac turns on the idle drops and it's wasting crazy gas. Where should I start first in finding this problem?
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OK so here is what is going on in my world. I have an '03 F-250 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4, with an Edge programmer and 4" MBRP exhaust. About 3 years and only 20,000 miles ago I changed out the HPOP, O-rings on the rails, all new O-rings on the injectors, blue spring in the fuel pump, IPR valve, EGR valve and a number of other new seals in my high pressure system. The truck has run great since then. I cleaned out my turbo about a year ago and it has been like new.
Now for the fun part. About a month ago it has been cranking a little longer when hot than it should, but not too bad. About 2 weeks ago even though it starts fine in the morning, it is just completely gutless out of the driveway until about a block away the turbo spools up strong and it runs great. It has run perfectly during this time once it is warmed up a little bit. Saturday it left me stranded in a parking lot cranking with no start. It had been sitting for about 2 hours.
I got towed home and plugged in my SGII and it shows my ICP at 345 when cranking hot. Once cold it starts up and runs great, but won't start again once hot. I changed out my IPR valve with a used one that I had on the shelf that I took out when I did my HPOP. No change. The FICM has 47 volt while cranking and 49 when just ign is on. Batteries are very strong and it has a new starter. When cranking the low oil pressure comes up on the gauge. Not sure where to start and I am frustrated. I have had this truck for 9 years and it is in great shape. It only has 138,000 miles.
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I need to install an oil pressure sensor sending unit. I've already occupied the 1/8"NPT test port on the rear of the oil cooler, where else might I be able to tap into oil pressure? (LPOP)
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I bought an Autometer 4763 gauge that didn't come with the correct fittings to plumb the sender into one of the extra ports on the back of the bowl. I went to the Ace hardware store right across the street and they didn't have anything (not surprised) and then Napa. They couldn't find a fitting to match either. He found that the plug threads are 7/16 20 tpi and the sender is 1/8" NPT. He suggested getting a 7/16 20tpi bolt, drilling it rifle-style, and then tapping it for a 1/8" NPT. The alternative, and what I ended up doing, was to use brass fittings to tee it off one of the supply lines to the heads. I ended up going that route but wanted to know if I should have looked harder for the right fitting.
Here's a pic of what I have now. I've test fit it, and it seems to work although I will need to insulate the hard lines because they rub due to the offset.
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