Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: OD Drops Out At 57 Mph?
Sep 20, 2014
I have had several issues getting to where I am now. The Neutral safety switch (MLPS) is new. The tranny has been rebuilt with new TC installed as well. The truck shifts out fin 1-2-3-4 until I hit 57mph. At 57 the od drops out and will not reengage until I drop down below that speed. I ran a diagnostic test on the TPS with my multi-meter and it all was in range on the voltages and was smooth through throttle movement etc.
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I have a 2003 4.6l f150 164000 miles. While back oil pressure dropped to 0. Then chattering. Then up then down. I changed the oil and filter, then flushed the motor, then changed the oil and filter again. 1500 miles, no problems, no chatter. Then all of a sudden it happens again. Oil level good and clean. Oil pump?Pick up tube?
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So my 99 F150 never got great MPG, but at least she was between 12 and 14 pretty consistently. However, she's spent a lot of time sitting, and now the MPG is right at 8. 9 or higher would be shocking. Any guess as to why this is? I know that engines need to be run now and again, but I can't beat 20+ MPG in my car and 40+ on my motorcycle, so she sits. I try to take her out once a month for a good drive to get everything heated up and moving and to burn any condensation that got in the oil. She's got fresh oil (not even 500 miles and 6 months), clean air filter, and fresh plugs and wires. I've also treated the gas with Sta-Bil at the proper mixture.
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I have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
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I've got a '98 F150.throwing codd 402, excessive flow EGR, also the oil pressure drops to absolute zero only when gear shifts but comes right back up. No knocking or other distress sounds in engine. I know I'm in need of an oil change. I already searched a bit and decided to swap out the DPFE sensor which I did purchase from the dealership. No code as of yet but what could that pressure drop be? Could a simple il change and filter fix that?
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So I have a 1997 ford f150 v8 4.6 2w... I got codes p0171 and 174 my truck seems fine till the idle drops, it's weird when I have it on park it's fine if I turn the wheel left the idle drops when the ac turns on the idle drops and it's wasting crazy gas. Where should I start first in finding this problem?
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1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
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I have an 03 Explorer that had a starting issue. Long story short, it had no fuel pressure. So after testing the relay, I switched out the pump with an Airtex unit . All seemed fine...for a while.
Became hard to start again, checked Schrader valve with the key on, and not running, no pressure. Strange though, it would run.
So got the fuel pressure gauge on it. Turn the key and pressure will go to about 5-10psi and then drop to zero. Turn key off and on again, up to 5-10psi, then drop to zero. Turn the key to start and pressure goes up to 10psi, then starts, then goes to 30 while running and you can drive it around. Shut off motor and pressure goes down to zero.how the sending unit is supposed to hold fuel pressure and not release it? Is there some kind of check valve in the sending unit assembly that can be cleaned or does it need a whole sending unit with another pump? I already spent the $100 for the pump, and it is working if you can drive it!
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My wife has her 03 escape v6. It has a very rough and low idle. On start up it idles nicely and then the idle drops and pulses if that makes any sense. I've pulled I think its the idle control sensor. It killed the engine as soon as I did. I've cleaned the throttle body.
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I have a Mazda 626 (V6) with about 150K miles and a funny engine racing problem. It occurs only when I'm going highway speeds (for me, 70MPH) and the car has been running for about 15 minutes. The engine will race, then chug and RPMs will drop down again, then it will race, etc. If I slow down, it will stop racing, but often start again as soon as I put my foot back on the gas pedal. If I don't get on the highway (running 60MPH and under), the car is completely fine.
I've taken it to my mechanic twice; the first time had the fuel filter replaced, the second time got new spark plugs, but it's still doing it. What else it might be?
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I have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
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2002 e350 7.3 diesel transmission... At 7 miles the speedo began bouncing and truck drops into second. Parked it 30 minutes, stated up no problem until 8 miles and the it started again. Have checked most of the electrical, changed speed sensor and transmission position sensor. Only error code 2-3 rd gear mismatch.
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Well I just completed a complete refresh of the fuel system. New injectors, IDM , UVC and UVCH, and glow plugs. (All Ford Parts)
I had my AE software running on the last drive and noticed the oil temp is quite erratic. The odd thing was, when I left off the pedal, it would drop 100 degrees. Once I got back into the fuel, the temp came right back up where I thought it should be (140-160) puling a 7000# Enclosed 8.5wide car trailer, in 30 degree weather.
The truck ran OK but seemed down slightly on power. I know the oil temp affects SOI timing, but what degree and how often does it sample, to make timing changes? I found a new one at an Oreillys and put it in, but no change. Wires do not seem to change OHM reading when wiggling them.
I will post pics from recording as soon as my kid brings my laptop back.
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I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
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177,000 miles, fuel pump was replaced just before I purchased it a few weeks ago. Truck has been running like new until today when it started doing this completely out of the blue. If you watch the video, the sound is not off, the tach is moving independently of the sound of the actual revs. Occasionally when doing this, the fuel gauge drops to zero. Thinking this is an electrical issue somewhere.
YouTube.....
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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I have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
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I have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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