Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Noisy Serpentine Belt - Crank Pulley Squeak?
Nov 10, 2013
Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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Ever hear of a crank pulley failure? Mine did and took out the serpentine belt. I have 63,000 miles on the 07 and it was a big shock to see the pulley in two parts.
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I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
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I have a 2003 f150 4.2 v8. and i have a squeaky belt I am almost positive its the belt i went to change it today but being sick,cold (NY), getting dark having just worked 10 hrs and changing oil it was not going well.
The reason I think its the belt it does not squeak when its really cold out but once it warms up a little its back so I am thinking when it gets warm it stretches out a little and when its cold it shrinks up or am I just crazy..
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My tensioner pulley is making noise.I replaced the rear idler pulley (can't get to the front one), but still have the noise. Mention a DIY for replacing the tensioner pulley bearing. A part number for the bearing?
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The nut that holds the pulley in place on the alternator has fallen off, causing the pulley to become loose and now the serpentine belt will not stay on. What is the size and thread type for the nut that I need to replace?
Alternator Pulley Nut for 2004 Camry 4cyl
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Just replaced the drive belt on my 2001 Toyota Echo, 100k, AC. First replacement as far as I can remember - don't know if a shop ever did it in the past, but doubt it, and did this change myself. I opted to replace because,
1) it seemed about time, and
2) I was getting some belt screech before the engine warmed when it was cold and damp out.
But, now I have an even worse screech. I've only noticed it happening at night (alternator resistance from the headlamps?), when it's cold and there's dew on the windows. It's intermittent, but increases in volume under load (initial acceleration from stop, or downshift to engine brake). I thought it was connected to the dash fan being on, but apparently not, as the sound is present (again, only on cool, damp, nights) when the fan is off, both AC on and off.
One last detail - I may have a bit too much tension on the belt. In this car the tension comes from pulling the alternator away from the engine, and I had a hard time getting a good reading on my tension indicator. I'm likely at the high end of the recommended tension but may be exceeding that to some extent.
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My serp belt squeaks due to contamination due to timing cover leak. I removed belt and cleaned it with mild degreaser solution and it was quiet for 1 day. If I had 100% water in cooling system, would any more leakage cause a belt squeak? I am putting off fixing timing cover gasket since it is a 5hr job. Coolant is @ 90% water concentration now.
Taurus 3.0 Vulcan motor.
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In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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Well, started to get belt squeak during cold starts. The idler pulley was changed many miles ago for same issue, but it seems to be starting up again. There are NO tutorials for serpentine belt replacement on this gen of RX.
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So my mk6 developed what initially sounded initially like a bad serpentine belt tensioner. Only under anything more than load, and sounded like a bird chattering under the hood. Got outside today, fired car up, watched tensioner and it sat there steady as a rail. The noise is coming from the opposite side of the engine. Not really mechanical/metallic at all and tracks under load with the RPMs. Why i initially thought what i did. Not I'm sort of baffled.
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The serpentine belt starting squeaking on cold and damp mornings about 18 months ago at about 60K. I replaced it with a Dayco belt, and the noise went away for about 6 months. When the weather turned cold last winter, the noise came back. So I changed the tensioner with both idler pulleys right about when the weather warmed up, and it was fine all summer. Now that it has gotten cold again, the squeak is back yet again and as before it goes away when the car warms up. I know it is the serpentine belt because when I spray it with water the noise immediately stops. I checked all the pulleys with the belt off and when I spin them I hear no noise. Is there something else it could be?
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I have a problem with my 1997 aerostar. There is a squeaking noise that gets more significant when I turn. I am pretty sure this is the drive belt as the power steering fluid is fine. Should I attempt to replace the belt tensioner and if so is it just the pulley that needs replacing or the whole tensioner. I am by no means a mechanic but can figure most things out.
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Ok, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
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My fiance has a 97 Corolla had belt that was located near the engine block on the passenger side going long ways. This belt had a frayed edge since she and I started dating(over 2 years). Whenever asked about it, she said that any dealership or shop she took it to for something else said that it was fine or they didn't think it needed to be worked on/fixed. Alarms for me? Yes, but it's her car. For whatever reason, it hasn't been fixed.
Yesterday, the battery light kept flashing on and off and the steering became hard and sluggish, as if the power steering wasn't working. We got home and I opened it up and the belt was gone except for a few solid strands left.
So, is this the timing belt, or something else? And what is required to fix it?I'm also in the process of hunting down my Haynes book for this car still but wanted to ask the masses that exist here.After finding the book, it looks to be called the serpentine drive belt.
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2003 3.0 ranger... This will be my 3rd time replacing serpentine belt and if needed 2nd. time for idler, tension pulleys...NOT SURE WHAT TO DO, should i replace parts again?
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Leaving on a 200 mile trip in the morning and when checking the fluids, I found the serpentine belt trying to get off the AC pulley. I've put in on twice and it immediately jumps half way off when starting the engine. How long it's been doing this. Nothing is obviously loose or moved. What is likely causing this?
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About 2 weeks ago i noticed that the serpentine belt started shredding. I noticed it before it was all gone, so i parked it and started ordering parts before i did anything. Since i had to get the radiator hose off, i decided to flush the coolant, change the thermostat and the upper radiator hose to go around the belt. Once the parts arrived, I drained the coolant and did two flushes and tried to change the hoses and thermostat. the Gates hose ended up not being the right hose, in hindsight I should have used the old hose and put it back together.
But I returned the Gates hose and ordered a Motorcraft hose. not thinking, i left the system dry and possibly sitting with water from the previous flush. Three days ago, I got the correct Motorcraft part and did the work on Sunday. since it had been sitting, i decided to run another flush, i noticed a squeaking sound and that the water was coming out a little browner than when i left it. So I ran another two flushes and said to hell with it and put the whole thing back together and filled it with coolant and distilled water.
This morning, the squeaking sound was louder, but temps where fine and coolant level was fine. I drove to work ( about a 10 mile drive) and when i finally stopped, i got a whiff of coolant smell. I noticed coolant behind me and when i lifted the hood, i noticed the reservoir was half empty and coolant dripping down from the center of the block. I can still hear the squeaking, I figure the water pump is on its last leg and decide i need to go home. I walk in to work and let them know I'm gonna take the day off to situate this. Before i leave, i top off the reservoir with a gallon of distilled water and head out.
After a short distance I notice that the squeaking stops, now I'm terrified that the water pump just completely failed. (I've never had one fail on me so I'm not sure what happens when it does) As i drive home, I'm watching all my gauges. none of the temperature gauges spike, everything was normal for the drive home (another 10 miles) I park it and lift the hood and the reservoir is completely full. why is reservoir completely full? why would a leak like that stop? Should i just change the water pump? I don't want to just hope for the best, i do use my excursion to haul the kids from time to time.
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