Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: No Start Just A Click From Starter
Feb 8, 2013
I got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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I'm having some strange electrical issues b where to start fixing the problems. Here is whats happening:
- Put the key into the ignition and turn to the "on" position, full power to everything no issues at this point
- Turn the key to the start position, get 1 click out of the starter and then lose all power to everything
- Turn the key off and back to "on" position, sometimes I get power at this point and sometimes the power stays dead for a while
- Check the battery, which is good (12.3 volts)
- At one point someone noticed some sparks coming from a connector near the back of the firewall on the passenger side (sits on top of a metal cover with a large positive terminal right behind it). I've disconnected this terminal, cleaned it and put on some dielectric grease all of which hasn't done anything.
- Basically I mess around with few things, check some connectors, let it sit for a few minutes and then it will start.
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I just bought an 03 f250 5.4l . I'm just using it to plow my driveway this winter. The starter just clicks , after multiple attempts it will start. The previous owner said it's been like that for a long time but always starts.
I'd like to fix this now while it's warm out , before I buy a starter I'm wondering if I should look into other causes and how to trouble shoot the issue.
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Have a 97 Ford explorer. Over 270,000 miles on it. Recently had Crank sensor, Crank case vent tube, plugs wires replaced along with intake manifold gaskets. Also had fuel injectors cleaned out. Now i cant get it to turn over. Went to store, truck started fine, came out and click. Thought it might be the battery even though its also brand new but no, had the starter checked, it is also good. Put test light on all electrical having to do with starter and found all hot wires and good grounds. Finally bypassed the solenoid for starter and still nothing but a click. I also checked NSS to see if that might be it but after putting it in reverse, the reverse lights came on, and even jiggled shifter in park and neutral to see if that might work but still just a click. Not sure where to go from here short of buying all new parts but doesn't make much sense to do that if they all appear to be working properly. Don't have a volt meter to check voltage.
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Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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So when I try to start the F there is a single click heard. Battery is tested good and is only 6 months old.
Been trying to locate the starter. From what I believe is it in the V install Valley? Meaning the entire cover needs to come off?
How to find / get to the starter. I will continue to see if the connection of cables are good.
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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Our 2004 GX has been a great car, but is suddenly doing a number of strange things - like not start. When I say it won't start, I mean you can turn the key, the dash lights up, the steering wheel adjusts, radio goes on, etc, but then NOTHING! No solenoid "click", no starter noise, NOTHING! Does not crank at all. The car just turned 60,000 miles, is in great shape, lives in the garage and has never been in an accident.
After the first couple of times it did this, had the battery replaced, as it was getting close. and then the car started again. Until the next day. No rhyme or reason as to when it would do this. It might start 10 times in a row, then NOT start for a while, then magically fire up instantly, even after several key turns. I wiggled the key, tried a different key, shifted to Neutral, wiggled the shifter to try to rule out security interlock, bad ignition switch and shift interlock. No dice.
Did some more research and thought it might be the starter relay - banged on it and it started, so replaced that part. Didn't solve the problem. It also began to randomly die while idling (in park, or in drive). Sometimes it would re-start, sometimes not. The times it has done this, it typically dies after running or 15-20 minutes, but NOT ALWAYS.... Sometimes it will die once, then be good for the rest of the day. Sometimes it re-starts immediately, after a few minutes, or more recently only after sitting for a few hours.. So basically we can't use the car.
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I have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
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I have a 97 F-150 v6 with 62K miles on it. I went out the other day to start it and all I got was a loud click from under the dash. I figured it was the battery. Late for work already, I just drove the wife's car. This morning I tried to jump it, nothing, just the same loud click. Headlights are good and bright. I'm no truck mechanic so I was maybe thinking solenoid or starter.
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I have a '97 Explorer XLT with a 5.0L V8. Recently, I've developed a problem, in which it doesn't always start. Sometimes, when I turn the key, there is a very loud click (as if the solenoid is engaging), but there is no start. The battery is NEW, and confirmed good, and the terminal connections are tight. I have also replaced the solenoid, but the issue remains.
If I turn on the headlights, before trying to start it, the lights DO NOT dim when the key is turned...indicating NO draw, on the electrical system. I can try it several days a week, unsuccessfully. And then, one day, I can turn the key and it will start as if there was never a problem to begin with.
I have lost confidence in my favorite vehicle, as I am afraid to drive it if/when it does start, for fear of being stranded. I am thinking it may just have a bad armature, or windings in the starter, but if that doesn't correct it, I can't return the starter (as it is an electrical component).
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1997 f150 electronic 4wd not working, lights on dash not working(they light up on start up) replaced transfer case motor still not working, checked all fuses, Do not feel or hear clicks on vacuum solenoid, Top vacuum lines on both have vacuum. Where do I go from here? What do I check next....
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2001 F150 4.6 V8 Triton
Automatic
Battery Tests Good
Starter Tests Good - I saw it spin and come out at the testing station at Autozone
Ignition Relay (the one in the fusebox)- New (8mo.)
Switch on the firewall on passenger side of truck - New (8mo.)
Battery terminals/connectors - Tight, no movement, Cleaned within the last week.
Starter connections - cleaned within the last week.
I am having trouble with my truck not starting. The issue has been occurring on and off for over a year. Usually, it happens about once a month, regardless of weather.
I turn the key, and there is one click. Usually at this point, I can use one hand to gently pull the shifter "up" towards park and turn the key again and it will start. Recently it is not starting when I do this. I have tried many times, and have tried to start it in Neutral (is that even possible with an Automatic?).
With the key in the "ON" position, I go under the truck and jump the starter cellinoid. I am jumping the small post to the big post where th wire comes from the battery. I do not touch the post that the wire goes into the starter.
I am very confused because it starts just fine without fail and almost instantly when I jump the posts. It is drive-able this way, but I would like to resolve this issue, and resume using my key to start it since the issue doesn't seem to be resolving itself as it usually does.
A friend told me about the Ignition Starter Switch inside the Column. If I have time I will attempt to start the truck with a screw driver on the switch tonight to narrow down the issue.
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Starter Removal, The top bolt is a bugger.
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