i have a 1997 f150 2wd and it has a 4.6 litre v8, it runs good but it seems to have no power when pulling a trailer anymore, it has 321,465 miles on it, original motor and transmission, it uses about a half a quart of oil every 2500 to 2800 miles between oil changes, the trailer i pull is just a small car trailer i have always pulled it with the truck, what could be causing it to lose power?
View 1 RepliesA friend has a 2003 6.0,around 200000kms well maintained just had new injectors,filters etc. This truck is his bread and butter so anything that needs to be addressed gets it, pretty much touble free until now. Just out of the blue last week at driving @60kms/hr pulling an empty trailer it died no surge or sputter. Full fuel,oil etc,they tried to get it running and it would not fire up. His local auto shop pretty much gave up on it and it now sits at our Ford dealership. Thoughts are leaning to fuel delivery to electrical can we ball park some things that he can put forward to the dealer to get him in and out sooner.
View 10 RepliesMy husband and I bought a 09 f-250 with 58000 miles. It used to pull our travel trailer with no power issues. Now the rpms go up & the power goes down. It never gets hot nor any lights come on. It's been in the shop twice. The first time nothing was found. The second time we were told it was dirty fuel filters. The truck only has 70k miles...
View 2 RepliesMy 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
Just bough a '98 F150, 4.6L; drove it home and it ran great, lots of impressive power etc... Parked it my shop and getting it ready for safety check so I can register it. All I did was change the oil, oil filter and air filter.
Couple weeks have gone by, I went to start it and it does start & idles beautiful but it will not rev. I give it gas and it's like it's choking / wants to die. The signal lights are flashing super fast which I don't recall doing before. Battery wasn't holding charge so I installed a new one tonight; no difference. Alternator is good.
I have not checked the plugs yet because I don't think that would be the cause of an overnight change from running excellent to what it is now but I will check them.
I have a 2012 Ford 4x4 crew cab 150 xlt. 15,000 miles. When pulling my dump trailer I was stopping to turn and the transmission disengaged. Once I turned the corner coasting the transmission kicked back in again. During this happening pushing the gas did nothing but rev up engine. My dealer said if this happened that a warning light would of came on or a wrench would appear on dash but it didn't. He said then it didn't happen. This happened 3 times in 10 miles of driving. I had it in tow mode.
View 4 Replies2000 7.3 180,000 miles. It sounded like I was in passing gear from the turbo but not as loud or strong. The tach never moved like it would if it was in passing gear. We kicked it in and out of overdrive, pushed the O/D, no change. Then while driving it would just go quite/back to normal. Oh forgot, this was while pulling a cargo trailer with a total weight of about 4,500 lbs...
View 5 RepliesI took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesI have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
View 11 Replies1999 5.4 auto
I have no trailer lights. I have checked all of the fuses. I cecked for voltage and am reading 0v what am I missing?
My truck makes a horrific screeching sound when it's loaded or pulling a small trailer (2000lbs) up hill. I discovered last night while I had it in drive, if I hold the brake and give it a little gas (like if you were trying to do a burnout) it will make the screeching noise as well. It won't break the rear wheels loose either, which makes me think it's down on power or the transmission is slipping.
My first thought is the transmission, but some searches on this forum describe U-joints or the carrier bearing as possibilities. The previous owner told me he replaced a U-joint just before I bought it, so I'm not ruling that out at all....
My truck specs: 1995 351 E40D 4x4 (manual transfer case & hubs), extended cab eddie bauer. 158k.
I bought my truck a couple months back for my custom furniture business. It's a '98 F-150, XLT, 5.4, supercab, 4x4, 3.73, 4R70W, 176k miles, with tow package. Today I picked up a single axle 6x12 trailer enclosed with metal mesh, weighs about 2000 lb. This was my first time towing with this truck and I figured it would run a little slow but this was ridiculous.
Highest speed I could get to was 64 going slightly downhill with OD locked off. Most of the smaller inclines and flat areas were max 55, then the worst was a two mile 7% incline at 35 mph. That last one just wouldn't downshift. This was all between 5000 and 6000 elevation in the Rockies. It's a little embarrassing getting passed by loaded semis
Am I doing anything wrong? Could it just be this specific trailer has issues?
My 05 f-350 6.0 is giving me some problems. I have 311,000 on my truck. It had had its share of problems, at 80,000 it blew its first head gasket. Ford fixed that one!! At 199,000 it blew its second one. I had head studs installed this time. At 299,000 I had to replace two injectors, a new turbo, a egr delete kit, a new oil cooler, power steering gear box, and while I was burning 1000.00 dollar bills I put a new edge cts on it. IOne the way out day one it was 95 temp out side, the truck ran great coolant temp and oil temp stayed around 202 to 204.
Day two 70 degrees my o temp hit 235 while the coolant temp went to 210. Backed off the throttle to 60 mph. Coolant temp dropped to 202, but the oil temp stayed around 217 to 220. I can not make the oil temp go above 198 with out the trailer. The other thing that scares me the most is my coolant level dropped about a half gallon!!! It is not blowing any white smoke, there is no coolant smell or leaks that I can see, and the holding tank has no evidence of being over pressurized. The edge system does not give me any codes except for the two for my egr delete.
So the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
I've been getting ready to take a camping trip with the, new to me, Superduty and going to rent a trailer. When I bought the truck it had no brake controller and the aux relay box was pretty dusty so don't think it's towed in a while. I got my self a controller and the jumper harness to go form the factory connector to the controller, then went to local parts supply and got two standard auto relays and a 30 amp maxi fuse. I noticed after installing the system the reverse lights stay on after putting the truck in reverse, they don't even go out with the key off.
Did some further testing and found pulling fuse 28 (central Elec) the circuit stay powered up, but only after shifting to reverse the first time. Can only turn off lights so far by pulling the trailer relay at the back of the aux. relay box where the two "towing" relays go, I fairly certain it's the "Trailer back up lamps relay". The power mirrors stay powered up too so the relay control circuit is staying powered but only after the relay is energized. What the issue maybe or where to look for a short? I guess there is the a less obvious possibility too - did ford use some funky special wiring for the relays meaning my standard automotive relays from the parts store are incorrect?
2002 7.3 4R100 ... The truck started flashing the O/D light pulling a 9K lb trailer on the highway.
The transmission codes read were P0705 (Range Selector) and P0873 (bad 3-4 shift - RPMs did not drop).
On the highway, the TCC seemed to lock up fine in 4th (OD button was set to leave O/D ON). When the truck would downshift (not often) then it would sometimes would rev high when it downshifted. It was like 3rd was slipping or it was downshifting into 2nd instead of 3rd. I think it was doing a 4-2 downshift but not 100% sure.
What confuses me is that if it is doing a 4-2 downshift then it would have to change state of both valve body solenoids. Is it possible that it was doing a 4-3 shift but solenoid was sort of sticking? Trans fluid looks fine.
I have read other posts where people had same problem (titled 3rd gear slipping), but they never seemed to resolve the problem in the thread. How likely is it that the solenoid is the problem? It seems to drive fine in 3rd when the O/D OFF button is pressed and O/D is not allowed.
I just got a 99 Ford f150 with the 4.6. I am having problems getting the four wheel drive to engage. I turn the on the dash and the lights come on for four high and for four low. I have a 00 four by four and it works fine, so I know how to work it. In the 99 I can hear the transfer case engaging and everything clicks just fine just like it's going into fourwheel drive, but the front end is not pulling. The front drive shaft is turning but still the front end is not engaged. What the problem may be?
View 4 RepliesSo i drive a 2001 F150 4.6L and over the last couple of years it has started pulling down and shaking heavily. I have taken it to mechanics and it always gave a code as a miss. well we replaced the coils and the plugs and of course it still has the problem. finally we did a compression test and it shows that #3 and #5 have no compression and the mechanic said it was either a blown head gasket, a valve or a cracked head. it has 230K miles on it so i was wondering what your thoughts on it were and also if it would be cheaper just to swap the motor.
View 2 RepliesI have a '97 4.6L 4x4. I've had a few issues recently and am at wits end.
Symptoms: while pulling a boat at highway speed, the engine engine just died. After waiting about 20 minutes for a buddy to show up with a tow rope, it started up and ran fine...until I got home (10 miles). I parked and after approx 5 minutes of idling it died again. No CEL, and found no codes when scanned. 15 minutes pass, it fires up and works fine.
The next day, I hook the boat up again, dive to the lake, go fishing, drive home. Everything was fine. I unhook the boat and drive to work. Half way there my voltage gauge starts falling and 5 miles later all of my gauges end electric stuff dies. I drive two more miles to work and strange beep starts coming from under the dash on the passenger side (I think). After my 12 hour shift it starts and I start my 10 mile commute. Half way through I lose electrical power again but make it home. Now it doesn't have the juice to turn over.
Are these problems related, and what are the possible causes and cures? On an unrelated note, what's the easiest way to replace a rear leaf spring shackle?
I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
View 4 Replies2003 250 superduty 6.0 ... I had to do the icp sensor. I went in from the top and discovered that the oil cooler was failing also. Replaced the icp and the oil cooler. Got it all back together. It would crank but wouldn't fire up. it did try for a about a tenth of a second. that's as close to firing as it got. The shifter has been loose. i ran it through the gears and the back into park. now it won't even crank.
Took the starter in to have it tested. it tested fine. Went to put it back on the truck. With no real force tightening the electrical connection it just snapped off the solenoid. put a new solenoid on it. Still no crank. Checked all related fuses and relays. They all seem to be good.
When I turn the key to on I get the buzzing noise and everything. Been through a lot of the no start check list. I don't have the ability to quite test everything. But what i can check. i do have an obd2 scanner. I cleared the code for the icp. I don't have any other codes showing. I have tripled checked that. After the weekend I am going to have to give up and take it in I think.