My friend has a 2000 f-150 2x2 and was following him and he said he heard something pop and then no transmission , haven't put a code reader on it yet. It's not the flex plate starer works fine fluid is a little discolored and has no bad burned smell to it.
View 1 RepliesGot a 1999 ford f150 2 wheel drive. I have replaced both upper and lower control arms with ball joints on both sides. New shocks, new stablelizer links, new inner and outer tie rod ends. Also, a new steering gear and i still have popping noise coming from both sides around the wheel area when i enter or leave out of drive ways, turning, or running in a hole. Doesn't do in going straight. I don't know what else to do. Driving me insane. I keep spending money on this truck and still where i first started.
View 9 RepliesLariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
View 9 RepliesToday I changed my intake manifold gaskets n I hooked everything back n now its bogging out n popping as it's idling, I put new spark plugs but it still the same. What the problem might be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 f150 4.6 v8. when i start driving and i hit about 40 my truck doesn't want to shift, i have to take my foot off the gas, let it shift then apply the gas again. if i don't it shifts real hard or the RPM's go real high. and then every so often my overdrive off light blinks. it shifts in and out of overdrive ok though.
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
I've recently purchased a 02 F-150 4x4 with 135k showing. About a week after purchase 4 COP's were replaced to eliminate a skip that started the day I drove it home. After a few hundred more miles it started shuttering at take off, much the same as the trans shuttering usually in higher gears/speeds. Only does it briefly in 1st gear and occasionally it goes into 2nd, but stops immediately after shift. After about 10 miles it stops doing it and until the trucks sits awhile it stays gone. About the same time a popping sound started coming from the rear axle at slow speeds. It changes sides as you drive and turn, and sometimes goes away intermittently altogether. Also is it possible or probable the two are related ?
View 4 RepliesI'm going crazy here with this strange noise on my '01 Screw. EVERYTIME it starts to rain - and I mean immediately upon starting to rain - I get a strange clicking and popping sound that is unmistakably near the passenger rear door, up high, almost in the corner of the cab. Today my wife and I were driving and it starting to rain and I saw her start cocking her head and I said, "Do you hear it too?" She confirmed where it is coming from, but I just can't figure it out. My truck has a cap on it, but it doesn't seem like it is related to that. It is ANY kind of rain too. Precipitation=sound. Really odd.
View 9 RepliesI recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 with the 4.2.The troubles started with popping a little through the exhaust ,bogging down and bucking,rough idle and had the two codes together that deal with having bad intake gaskets don't remember the codes offhand.
I also noticed every plug in the truck was wet and black however it didn't appear oil wet.I have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket ,injector o rings,checked injector ohms all were 16.5,new EGR gaskets,all bolts are torqued to specs
Now I have a no run condition, it will crank but not run. I heard a pop in the engine one time. I cranked till the battery went dead.I also noticed as I was calling it a day last night the radiator reservoir was empty. I don't know if somehow I got a hydro lock even though I put new intake gaskets in it or i have some other issue like timing or something. I don't know where to look next....
I drive a 1997 dodge Dakota 5.2l 5 speed manual 4wd and recently it started making a really aggressive banging or popping noise while I was driving, it also made the truck bounce up and down a little bit and I could feel the shifter move up and down while this was happening. So I went underneath and discovered my transmission mount was out so I changed that and as well I changed a few u joints. One thing i noticed while I was replacing u joints was that when I had the front drive shaft off the whole problem was reduced to just a minor popping noise but once I slapped back on the front drive shaft it all came back. Another problem that is occurring because all of this is that when I tried to use the 4wd in 4 hi it just kicked it out of 4hi but in 4 lo it would stay in but all the problems were still there. The only time it doesn't do anything is when I am already rolling and I put the 4wd selector in neutral to disengage the drive shafts.
I have asked a few different people their opinions and I get different answers, someone thought it could be something to do with the steering shaft or intermediate steering shaft but I think that is not the correct diagnostic. Another one of my buddies suggested that it might be a stretched chain or gear in the transfer case that is causing it.
My 2003 f250 6.0l just up and quit. It make a popping noise out of the intake when cranking. I am getting 1150 psi at the icp and ipr is at 62% which seems high to me. The FICM voltage seem fine unless the batteries are drained and I am getting FICM sync. I replaced the HPOP, ICP sensor and IPR about a year ago. I recently replaced the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump. I am at a bit of a loss. I did pull the IPR and everything looked fine.
View 14 RepliesBack in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
I have a 1997 Ford F150 4x4. I only have reverse gear, when you put into drive you have to rev up truck and then it will kick into gear & as long as you keep a little pressure on throttle it will stay in gear & shift fine if you let up on throttle it seems to go back into neutral & you have to start the the process all over. What is my problem? I have changed fluid & filter.
View 2 RepliesLooking for any good videos of flushing the transmission out of an 1997 F150. I'm having a hard time locating the input and output lines to the radiator. I don't know which it is top or bottom one...
View 11 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 XLT V6 Speed Manual stickshift. My problem is the transmission will not go into any gears, it is in neutral.
View 1 RepliesTransmission lost 3rd and 4th gears so I pulled it and found the direct drum burnt up, got new drum and changed all seals, clutches, steel plates, aftermarket cooler and put a sure cure kit in it.
Truck drove great until it blew the front seal out 250 miles later, took it to a shop since I was away from home and he said the clutches got hot so he completely rebuilt it. Truck made it 150 miles and lost 3rd and 4th again. He replaced all the solenoids also.
Transmission shop rebuilt it again and it made it 80 miles and now it will not move at all. We replaced the neutral switch, shift cable, and shifter handle on the last rebuild because he thought it was hanging between neutral and drive.
What else could be making this transmission keep going out? Could it be a bad case, bad valve body or what? We are at a total loss on what keeps burning it up.
2003 toyota Camry. when coming to a stop and hitting brakes there is a poping sound. It almost sounds like metal hitting each other. What is this or causing this!?!? Also it is a 4cylinder automatic with 100000miles.
View 2 RepliesGot a 03 GTI VR6 and my drivers door kept on making this creaking/popping noise(it is very similar to the creaking noise of a old wooden door or the sound you hear in horror movies but for a lot shorter duration). The sound seems to come up when I accelerate, break take off from a complete stop. I took the car into the dealership and they torqed some bolt on the hinge and the creaking went away. Not a month later the passenger door develops the same creaking. The dealer tries to torqe the bolt on the hinge again and they say it cant be done and that their body shop needs to replace the hinge. They paint a hinge for me and put it on but don't get the door adjustments right so I get a lot of wind noise. Finally they adjust the door right and all is well.
A while later the drivers door starts creaking again! I went to another dealership and did an oil change while I was away on a trip to Toronto and the service technician said he could lubricate the door gasket and that this will take the creaking away. So he did. Now granted that has taken the creaking away but after some rain and 2 car washes the creaking came back in full swing.
I call the dealership to set up an appointment and they refuse to look at the door saying that as far as they are concerned the vehicle is up to manufacturers specs and that they will need to get a VW rep to look at it. In the mean time I call the vw customer care which tells me that they contacted the dealer and that the dealer beleves that the car is up to manufacturers specifications and that the noise I am hearing is normal and that all the cars have this noise.
Now I owned an 02 Golf GL 2dr and never heard that sound. It's been a month and a half and neither the dealer or vw customer care have called to inform me when the VW area rep. will be coming to have a look at the issue. It looks like I hit a dead end with having my issue acknowledged and looked at. Is this really a standard noise on the mk4 2dr platforms ? How I should pursue this issue ?!? Anything ?!
So I was given a 1999 f150 4.6. The transmission was supposedly either new or rebuilt. (I'm going with rebuilt) Driving it for the first time today, I noticed it had very little poor acceleration. When I would get on the gas (to the floor) the rpms would shoot up (3-3.5) but the truck didn't accelerate accordingly. It feels like the power it's getting to the wheels. Driving at highway speed trying to maintain a speed at over 70 the truck wanted to stay at 2500 rpms but if I let off the gas just a touch it would shift up (into overdrive I think) and level out at just below 2000 rpms, but if I accelerated even just barely, it would down shift and go back to 2500. I've also noticed the truck runs 5 mph faster than it reads with stock sized tires. I've check the tans fluid and it is bright red in color and at the appropriate level. I crawled under the truck and noticed the trasfer case mount was wet with fluid (not dripping) and the rear output shaft of the transfer case was also wet. Could this be a transfer case problem?
View 13 RepliesWoke up this morning and was going to work. Went to unlock my truck and noticed the lights didn't come on inside when I used the remote door unlock. Then I started truck and the tranny lever on the steering column wouldn't go into gear plus the sterring wheel will not lock when the truck is off!
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