Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: No Enough Power To Turn The Engine - Dead Battery
May 23, 2015
I think I have a battery issue but wanted to ask the group in case someone ran into this before.
Went to start my truck this morning and did the normal dead battery sound but doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. I can see the engine start to turn but can't get over compression.
So I bought a new Interstate battery from Costco, installed it, and same problem. Hooked up a charger and it showed 25%. Let it charge for 4 hours, now it's at 50% and still won't turn over.
I'm going to wait over night and let it charge, but I wanted to ask the group if there is any known problems (Beyond battery) that would do this.
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On occasion my battery (new) goes dead. Sounds like a battery leak? How do I test for this? I have a Cnc odb2 tester, test light, multi meter and alternator tester.
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My 2001 F150 was dead, my son came in and told me Dad when I open the door I hear a clicking. Upon investigation a relay in fuse panel was clicking and I had to jump start the truck. NOTE- The truck has a brand new battery purchased 3 days prior to this issue.
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2001 F150 ext cab lariat 4x4. My father passed away last christmas and my mother would like to have his truck running. A little back ground truck has a 4.6 has always lacked power. Ford did a motor job on it at ten thousand miles saying it was assembled wrong at factory. #seven cylinder has been dead for years. This spring the cat plugged up on drivers side. The local mechanic put two new aftermarket cats on it. Worked ok for a day. Then started acting up. Truck seems to only be running on three or four cylinders. It will start right up but won't rev up if you put it in gear it stalls. My uncle was s Ford mechanic for years and means well but is too busy to fix it. She has been waiting since may for him to look at it. He claims the problem is likely the wiring harness for the O2 sensors that runs behind the engine. Does this seem reasonable?
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I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
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My battery was dead. Jumped the battery but hooked up cables wrong. Put car on battery charger.
Car has power now. Turns over but does not start. Seems like no power to engine. Engine light is on.
Is there a fuse that needs to be fixed?
2007 Camry LE with 4 cyl.
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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SO the inlaws have I believe a 1996 Explorer XL-not too sure of year-that they will let us use long term if we get it running. Anyway problem is I have the keys, the keys wont turn any of the lock cylinders. I have dumped about a half can of both WD-40 and PB Blaster into all of em and nothing. It has been sitting out back for a year and a half so the battery is so dead. The driver and passenger windows are down about a quarter inch? I want to get in the car without spending any $$ as we will be having twins soon and a free car is too good to pass up.
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On cruise control, engine went dead immediately after passing gear kicked in. After 2 days on the side of the road got a pull to the house. Then after having a charger on it over night the electric seems to be messed up. Switched on, the dash lights light full strength for a fraction of a second before appearing as thought the battery is real low. Also the doorlocks act crazy. I think maybe I blew out the BB on the high oil pressure pump.
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My 1997 F150 with the 5.4 engine has 167,300 miles. My wife drove it to work the other day and when she went to come home the truck would not turn over. The starter would engage the flywheel but would not turn the engine over. I had it towed home and I pulled the starter. Advance Auto bench checked it for me and said the starter was fine, only drawing 36 amps. I have also verified the cabling from the battery and starter relay is fine.
So here is some history up to this point. Over the past four months the battery light would come on and off. I had the battery (only 8 months old) and the alternator check and both tested fine. At one time the check engine light came on and the code indicated a miss fire on the #3 cylinder. I pulled the plug (new platium plugs at 120k miles) which looked fine and reconnected everything. Since I disconnected the neg. terminal of the battery the engine code cleared. Once in a while the engine would sputter and run rough at 40 - 45 mph, but run fine at slower or higher speeds.
Since I had the starter off I used a pry bar to try to manually turn the flywheel, seems to turn in one direction but not the other. I have also tried to turning the engine over by hand via the belt and putting a socket on crankshaft pully bolt. I can not get the engine to turn over. So in my reading on the internet it seems like I might have a hydrolock. I have not lost any antifreeze that I can detect and I have not seen any white smoke coming from the exhaust. From what I'm reading there are two types of hydrolocks, one caused by antifreeze and the other caused by a open fuel injector.
Does what I am describing sound like a hydrolock and what is the best way to diagnose if it is caused by a leaking gasket or injector? Should I pull a couple of plugs on each side and try to crank the truck?
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i have a 2003 with v10 limited excursion its 4x4 has new battery in it also when parked on level groundi have no issues and when parked with the front end down i have no issues. however when i park the truck with the front end up in the air. example when parking in driveway about 30 to 40 degree angle with the nose up. the battery will go dead after sitting for just one day
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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Drove it last night around 9pm. Parked it and went to drive it again this morning around 7:30. No cold weather here or rain. Here is what I know: When I turn the key I hear a click (not a repeating click) but the engine doesn't turn over. Batteries have 12.5 volts. I put my trickle charger on them and had full charge after about 3 or 4 minutes. When I turn the key the headlights do not go dim. I put a screw driver across the solenoid on the passenger side fender and got a strong arc. When I do that, I can also hear another click that sounds like its coming from the engine. I tapped the starter a few times with a hammer, but it still wont turn over. I'm guessing bad starter.
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After replacing the battery and starter...as well as replacing the alternator (bench tested good), I'm still greeted with one 'thud' when attempting to turn the engine over. The battery light is one in the dash. I've been through this scenario with more than a couple vehicles that haven't started in the past. I do the normal check the battery, wires, alternator, fuses, and starter. Somewhere along that line...it always fixes the issue. Not so here. I have to admit that I'm at a loss at the moment.
2001 F-150 5.4L
115k
Replaced starter
Replaced batter
Alternator bench tested good
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I am working on a 2000 f-150 XLT 5.4L 4x4 Automatic. It tries to crank over but acts like its stuck. things done: New starter, new battery, fixed connections. I can turn the crank counter clock wise but won't turn clock wise. Not sure if i should say the engine is bad or could trans be stuck? Heard 5.4L's have timming chain issues. Is that true? Point me in a direction and i'll go forth.
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.
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After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
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I have a 2003 Ford F150 King Ranch which I just bought, I noticed that the turn signals (both right and left) do not work and also the power mirrors are not working.
My 2003 Ford F150 has the 5.4 vortec, 4 x 4, automatic with 200K on it
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I'm having some strange electrical issues b where to start fixing the problems. Here is whats happening:
- Put the key into the ignition and turn to the "on" position, full power to everything no issues at this point
- Turn the key to the start position, get 1 click out of the starter and then lose all power to everything
- Turn the key off and back to "on" position, sometimes I get power at this point and sometimes the power stays dead for a while
- Check the battery, which is good (12.3 volts)
- At one point someone noticed some sparks coming from a connector near the back of the firewall on the passenger side (sits on top of a metal cover with a large positive terminal right behind it). I've disconnected this terminal, cleaned it and put on some dielectric grease all of which hasn't done anything.
- Basically I mess around with few things, check some connectors, let it sit for a few minutes and then it will start.
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I have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
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I have a 2001 F150 step side 4.6L that just stopped turning over to start. The engine rocks slightly when you turn the key, then nothing but a little electrical smell. Was starting fine up to this past week. Battery is strong and good and upper battery connections clean, has original starter solenoid. I am a weekend mechanic, my son's work truck, trying to do this myself.
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