The starter on my kid's truck doesn't disengage and continues to turn over after the ignition is off. I have seen a few posts on this but have yet to find a clear troubleshooting path and it seems a lot of money wasted on new starters, solenoids and new ignitions.
View 4 RepliesStarter problem with my 1999 Ford 5.4 f150. Last few days I’ve had to cross the solenoid terminals in order to start up. After replacing the solenoid the starter would not disengage. Put the old solenoid back on, crossed term and the starter did the same thing. Bought new starter (what a job finding the upper bolt) replaced old one, and I’m still hearing the starter running along with the motor. What else?
View 11 RepliesIts and 03 ranger with a 4.0 auto and it grinds after starting and it doesn't always start smoothly, like it hops around till it finally starts, kind of like the starter wont disengage. Do I start with a new starter or is more than likely a flexplate issue? I hope its just a starter.
YouTube video : 2012-02-16_15-35-45_211 - YouTube
2nd problem is it hesitates a second or so before it goes into gear and clicks in hard, kind of like when you are low on oil, but its not low on oil. It also shifts hard. When I got it the column bolts were loose so the shifter was floppy, I am wondering is someone tried to fix it the wrong way. Also now its pretty stiff to move the shifter selector.
Also what tranny is in it, it may be some sort of heavy duty unit, it was an x electrical municipality vehicle, it appears to have an 8.8 and heavy duty rear springs. Door tag reads axle rd, tr D, and spr 2c...
My father-in-law has a 01 F 150 4x4 with the 4.6 automatic and his overdrive button will not disengage. Is there a fuse or something on the tranny that he can look at to get it to work?
View 7 RepliesI recently bought a 1997 f150 4x4 with shift on the fly. I bought the truck from an old man who parked it outside his house. I love the truck, but the 4x4 has been finiky. I have done a ton of research and i have done a bunch of testing. The vacuum system is working correctly. I have tested the solenoids and the front axle actuator is working properly.
There is some kind of electrical issue. It might be the GEM (i really hope not), but it might be the shift on fly switch itself.
The 4x4 will engage, but when i turn the switch to 2h nothing seems to happen. Driving in reverse doesn't work. But sometimes it switch from 4h to 2h, just by turning the truck off and restarting it. If restarting doesn't work, then i have to pull the 5 fuse, let it sit, then put it back in. I read that this resets the GEM. (Number 5 fuse, middle row, 5th from the top).
Resetting the GEM usually does it, but not all the time. Sometimes it will still be in 4x4 again after resetting the gem. And then what is really weird, after driving it in 2h (after the gem reset) then turned it off and restarting it, it will go back into 4x4. All this happens with the switch set to 2h. So I have been having to reset the GEM, each time i restart it. (This was going on for a day or so.)
Any easy testing i can do? Do you think it could be the switch on the dash, or more likely to be the gem? I hope it isn't the gem. I don't want to have to pull a fuse each time to drive my truck.
I have a 2000 ford f-150 4 wheel drive that will not disengage, I am down here in south fla where and don't put it in 4 wheel drive much, but yesterday I put in 4 wheel drive and I heard the click click and it engaged I put it in drive and drove it about 5-10 miles parked it and turned the switch to 2 wheel high and got out , got back in the truck turn her back on and the 4 by 4 lamp came one went off then came back on and stayed on and it still in 4 wheel drive and wont disengage.
View 4 RepliesI have a Toyota Tundra 2000 SR5 V8 4.7L with about 100k miles on it. Today the starter did not disengage after I turned the ignition off. I did not disconnect the battery in time and now the battery is completely dead (no charge even to the door locks). About two months ago I replaced a three-year-old battery after I could not start the truck and measured only about 9 volts on the battery with a multimeter. Now I realize that a starter already going bad was probably affecting the first battery.
Questions: Does it sound right that a starter that does not disengage will kill a battery pretty quickly? For a starter that does not disengage, are we looking at the starter or the solenoid or the relay or not enough information yet to know? Does this model Tundra have an integrated starter and solenoid or separate? Where is the starter? Is there any recommended order of replacement/troubleshooting (for example, start with the relay, or it's probably the solenoid so start there).
Starter Removal, The top bolt is a bugger.
View 5 RepliesMy 1987 Toyota 4Runner 22RE has a weird cold starting issue. When the temperature is in the low 30s F or below I have to use the gas pedal when I first start it (for only a few seconds) in order to make the starter disengage. If I don't push the gas pedal it chugs at around 250 RPM and the starter remains engaged. If I kick in a little more gas (up to about 1,500 RPM) the starter will immediately disengage and then it runs just fine at around 800 - 900 RPM.
When it's warm out (40 F or higher) it starts up and runs perfectly without any of the aforementioned happening.
Maybe related is the following: when the weather is warmer out this SOMETIMES happens: the engine idles too high (1,100+, sometimes up to 1,700). If I "kick" the gas pedal this usually knocks the idle back down but not to 750 - 800 where is should be.
I have thought about replacing the (I think it's called) idle air control valve (the big metal thing with the flappy gate inside) that sits atop the air intake above the driver's side headlight I want to replace this only if it's going to fix it.
I have a '99 F-150 SC, 4x4, 4.6L, with 48,000 miles. I drove approximately 15 miles, then parked for 20 minutes. When I returned, the truck wouldn't do anything when the key was switched to start. It's as though there was no power going to the starter. Could it be a problem with the immobizer system, or just a freak incident with how I handled the key? The truck ended up starting after another 15 minutes and has consistantly started for the remainder of the day.
View 4 Replies1998 f250 4.6 4x4. In park the starter engages with key on . Ounce running the starter is still engaged in park and neutral. No engagement in the drive gears. Changed the ignition switch and neutral safety switch on the trans. When key is off instrument cluster is still on.
View 3 RepliesI got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
View 3 RepliesThis past monday morning I got in my 05 Legacy GT w/ 82,000 miles. When I turned the key it acted as if the starter engaged for a second then disengaged and made the typical motor winding sound. I tried it several more times with the same result. So I reluctantly called my local repair shop and had it hauled over for what I thought was possibly a bad starter. The mechanic went out to check it to see what it was doing and when he did, it started right up…..!! He said that when it started it ran as if it had been flooded for a minute or two then cleared up. Throughout the day he drove it around and started it about 20 times and said it “appears” to be ok. It’s a small shop that I trust with my other cars but they don’t have the tech to pull codes on a subaru. So my question is, what was the cause of this issue? Neutral Switch? Cam Sensor? or a Fluke?
View 1 RepliesI have 98 f150 with 4.6 starter went so I put a new one on wich was a hassle and it tries to turn but just wont as if the motor is seized. I had been hear a loud howling sound from what I think is the ac unit and the ac line burst after trying to start. Would a bearing or something with the AC be enough to stop the engine from turning over? Or could it maybe be a wire connection problem? To me it sounds like a starter trying to start a seized motor but I cant see that my motor would be out it only has 190 000km and the oil looks good. but we couldn't turn the motor over with a ratchet? The truck had been getting gutless. I am stuck...
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2000 f150 4x4 ex cab with the 5.4. Once in a while when starting, there is a grinding and the starter won't engage the flywheel. The truck has only had 17000 miles put on it in the past 4 years, and has sat quite a bit. Could the starter gear be gummed up and not engaging all the way, or should the starter be replaced? Or could poor contact on the cables cause this? Or is this a flywheel issue?
View 14 Replies2000 f150 4x4 5.4auto tranny.
When I turn the key, sometimes i have a time delay before the starter kicks in. I replaced the relay on the firewall and no change. A couple of days ago I started the truck but the starter did not turn off when the key was released. I had to turn the key to off then back to run to get the starter to stop. Now today, I nearly got stranded by it. It took several attempts to get the starter to kick in.
To me this seems like a relay sticking. What should I try next?
My truck has started fine every time I've turned the key except for last night after work. I got in had all the lights on the dash and dome lights. I turned the key and nothing. Not even a click. Hooked it up to a company truck and it fired right up and ran fine. Drove home shut off and then started it a little later and it started fine. Then this morning it wouldn't start. I hooked up the jump pack and still nothing. I drove my fusion to work and when I got home I went out and it fired right up like nothing happened. Does the work sometimes not work other times sound like the solenoid on the firewall? 2000 4x4 4.6 auto 253k miles
View 4 RepliesI might have a chance to pick up an 1997 F150 with a 4.6 pretty cheap. He has replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder, Says it keeps turning over until you put in in gear. In my experience a solenoid that is sticking wont stop until you disconnect the battery, just wondering what people think it might be? I am thinking I will just put a push button stater to make it work if its a wiring issue.
View 3 RepliesMy husband's starter went, so he took it in to be rebuilt. After my husband reinstalled it, as soon as he connects the battery up, the starter engages without the ignition on (not even a key in the ignition). Did the guy who rebuilt it screw up, or is there something my s/o might have done wrong when putting it back in?
View 11 Replies2004 F-150 heritage : 12 degrees F yesterday. clicked (firewall solenoid) but starter was not pulling amps. After putting a jumper pack on it, after about 30-40 clicks it took off, never to work again.....towed it home with a rope.
2000 F-250 Super Duty : 7 degrees F today, did the same except you could tell the starter was pulling amps. Took a lot of clicks and engaged but I let off too quick, another bunch of clicks and it started. Once I moved it, I tried it a bunch more and it seemed to work, however I do not trust it.
2001 Crown Victoria : 7 degrees F today, the first turn of the key was nothing but a click, and the 2nd turn it worked fine. After moving it worked a bunch more times.
Whats up with the cold temps and the starters?
I have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.