Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: New Leaf Springs Have Slightly Different Arch?
Sep 26, 2012
I bought some new leaf springs for my 2000 F150XL and noticed one is different only slightly, it being in the arch one is 7 15/16 which is correct, but the other is 8 1/8. how much variable do they allow, will it make that big of a difference or will i be able to notice it after there on. I am happy with them but don't want to put them on and then the truck set uneven??? the reason for replacing the ones still on the truck is they are twisted and apparently broke they are 2/1 springs and having the new ones i can tell the #2 spring on the truck now are shorter like the ends are broke off and the clips moved around allowing for them to twist, so i really needed new ones.should i put the taller arch on a particular side or should i just put them on....
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My wife's 2000 SCAB 4x4 has been rattling for a while now. I have been able to figure out that the culprit(s) are the metal bands on the leaf springs, which are somewhat loose and causing the rattle. I have squeezed them with a large c-clamp on a couple of occasions, which seems to have provided a temporary fix, but as soon as the suspension cycles fully they stretch out again, and begin making noise. How to tighten them permanently? Or is there a replacement/upgrade to fix it?
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I tried to replace the rear spring bushing of the drivers side front leaf spring.
Got the nutz off the shackle... The lower bolt was bumping into the front drive shaft and would not come out all the way.
Biggest problem I was having seemed to be I could not get the axle to drop far enough to release the pressure on the bolts in the shackle.
NOTE: I was trying to do this without unbolting the U-Bolts from the axle.
I was under the impression you could do this without unbolting the u-bolts. I have all new hyperflex suspension bushings and would like to get them on.
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I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
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My truck in the signature is 21 years old on original Leaf's. Is it time to change them? Do the backs last longer than the fronts?
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Been chasing this for a few weeks and getting fed up. Have a bad metal on metal "creaking" noise from the front at low speeds.
Background - Replaced springs with X code front and modded C code rear from Junior at ATS. Also replaced shocks at the same time. All hardware tightened with weight on suspension. Have rechecked torque on ubolts many times, even loosened and retightened both ends of the shackles, sway bar links, shocks, etc.
Can't get the noise to go away. Hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from but you can "feel" the noise in the back half of the front springs.
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Trying to figure out if my front leafs are factory or not. I assume so but they look extremely weak for a 9k rig.
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This is my dads f250 build date of 9/03. I know these wheels are not the factory xl wheels. I also think they changed something with the wheel back spacing somewhere around this time. He is running 285/70/17 bfgs and is rubbing the leaf springs pretty good. He ran this same size on his previous 02 model with no rubbing. Can he get away with 1/4 spacers? What years these wheels are from? And the backspacing differences, if any. His 02 had the chrome large bullet hole style wheels.
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I have a 99 SD 250 diesel, I also have a broken rear leaf spring. My truck has a 3 1/2 in. block between axle and leaf. My question is this. Can I remove the block and install 4" lift leaf springs without messing up my pinion angle? The blocks look square. But someone toldme once they are made to a specific angle for rotating pinion for better u joint alignment. Sounds like it could be true.
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As the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
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I have a 2000 F350 that was once a work horse. Its now just my daily. The leaf springs in the rear have 2 broken on each on and the front need to be replaced due to 344K miles on them too. My question is how do I soften up my ride on leaf springs though? Theres a local shop that will do the work, but my rears have 7 leafs / front 2. It used to tow daily but I dont tow anything with it. could I go to 5 in the rear to soften it?
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I decided to go ahead and do a rear block replacement. I'm going to install the Ready lift 4 inch blocks.
I have both u bolts and nuts off of both sides. Rear stabilizer bar disconnected and both shocks disconnected. However, when I raise the rear of the truck, the axle raises as well. What could be holding it on still? I noticed there's a nut in the middle of the leaf springs. Do I take that nut off? I just don't know what could be keeping it from separating.
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I just put some toyo at2 295.75.16. On my 04 250. And I've got some rubbing on the plastic and front leaf springs. If a 2.5 " spring left will take care of the rubbing or will I need wheel spacers.
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...So I think the time has come to replace the rear springs in my SuperCrew....They are starting to sag...nothings broken...spring perches look ok. Question is , Are the supercrew springs any different than a reg cab or supercab?
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4r70w and it shifts a bit slow between first and second. So I've been doing my research and figured id try to put new 1-2 accumulator piston and springs in. What are the part numbers so I don't order the wrong stuff.
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Ok, have a 2003 fx4 auto trans with manual 4x4 ...I notice more and more that say at intersections, when I start out either turning left or right it feels like the 4x4 is slightly trying to engage, or a chuttering feeling..best that I can describe it. any thoughts, I have 106 K and do need to change out the diffential oils etc.
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I have a99 5.4 and its missing slightly when cold mostly. I'm thinking egr poss did tune up 7 mos ago so I don't think it's plugs or coil pacs seems to get better when it warms up...
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All, i have an issue ( or at least i think its an issue) with my 99 f150 5.4. When i use my cruise control, i notice when i put on the brakes slightly to slow down, it feels like its not coasting because you can feel the engine still engaged and wont coast. I think this happens even without the cruise on. What this could be? I have the latest update on the cruise control harness. I believe that was for power always to it even in off, causing fires.
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I have a 2001 F150 step side 4.6L that just stopped turning over to start. The engine rocks slightly when you turn the key, then nothing but a little electrical smell. Was starting fine up to this past week. Battery is strong and good and upper battery connections clean, has original starter solenoid. I am a weekend mechanic, my son's work truck, trying to do this myself.
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I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
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I just bought a 98 f150 about a month ago from someone. The guy i bought it from said the tranny had been rebuilt about 4 months prior and i have the invoice proving it. I have lately noticed a hard shift from first to second gear, all other gears shift perfectly, but on my way from work toady the tranny seemed to slightly slip out of gear(in other words the rpms didn't shoot up, just loss of power) when accelerating from a stop light, and then it seemed to catch and started shifting ok. my question is given these symptoms is it possible that i can make this tranny last a little while longer or is it about to quit? any possible causes?
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