Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: New Battery Leak / Goes Dead?
Mar 13, 2016
On occasion my battery (new) goes dead. Sounds like a battery leak? How do I test for this? I have a Cnc odb2 tester, test light, multi meter and alternator tester.
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My 2001 F150 was dead, my son came in and told me Dad when I open the door I hear a clicking. Upon investigation a relay in fuse panel was clicking and I had to jump start the truck. NOTE- The truck has a brand new battery purchased 3 days prior to this issue.
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I think I have a battery issue but wanted to ask the group in case someone ran into this before.
Went to start my truck this morning and did the normal dead battery sound but doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. I can see the engine start to turn but can't get over compression.
So I bought a new Interstate battery from Costco, installed it, and same problem. Hooked up a charger and it showed 25%. Let it charge for 4 hours, now it's at 50% and still won't turn over.
I'm going to wait over night and let it charge, but I wanted to ask the group if there is any known problems (Beyond battery) that would do this.
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i have a 2003 with v10 limited excursion its 4x4 has new battery in it also when parked on level groundi have no issues and when parked with the front end down i have no issues. however when i park the truck with the front end up in the air. example when parking in driveway about 30 to 40 degree angle with the nose up. the battery will go dead after sitting for just one day
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After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
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My dad has a 97 f150 ext cab and the gauges are dead.... What would cause this? I've checked the faq but didn't see anything.
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1997 F-150 XLT Extended cab. 4.6L VIN 6, 5 speed manual, 4x4. Replaced speed sensor on transfer case, speedometer is not completely dead but bounces around. Seems to be about 10 mph below actual speed. When I come to a stop say at a red light speedometer drops to zero at about 20 mph or so. Cruise also inop. It seems like whenever I let off the gas to stop or shift gears the speedometer drops down but then goes back up but not to the right speed. It has the mechanical odometer by the way. Everything else seems to be working fine. New speed sensor did not come with the plastic gear so I had to reuse the old one. Not sure if that gear was bad or not, but it was the pink one if that matters.
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2001 F150 ext cab lariat 4x4. My father passed away last christmas and my mother would like to have his truck running. A little back ground truck has a 4.6 has always lacked power. Ford did a motor job on it at ten thousand miles saying it was assembled wrong at factory. #seven cylinder has been dead for years. This spring the cat plugged up on drivers side. The local mechanic put two new aftermarket cats on it. Worked ok for a day. Then started acting up. Truck seems to only be running on three or four cylinders. It will start right up but won't rev up if you put it in gear it stalls. My uncle was s Ford mechanic for years and means well but is too busy to fix it. She has been waiting since may for him to look at it. He claims the problem is likely the wiring harness for the O2 sensors that runs behind the engine. Does this seem reasonable?
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How can I determine if my compressor is bad or is the solinoid/clutch bad. Truck had sat for about 9 months-1yr. A/C hadn't been operated for an additional 5-6 months. It worked like a freezer before I parked the truck. When i started the truck back up and tried the a/c the clutch would try to spin but very intermittently, now not at all. What direction should I go?
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I reprogrammed my computer, to get rid of a bad tune with the Ford Program. After reprogramming, and entering in my tire size/gear size my speedometer and odometer no longer work. Also my overdrive light is flashing. Does this truck have a PSOM and could that be bad? What else could cause the problem, it definitely happened when it was flashed. Whats the cheapest way to fix it?
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I have a 2003 passat wagon v6 4 motion.
Last Thursday the battery was dead. I could jump the car and it was fine. Drove for 20 minutes to work and 10 hours later it was more dead than in the morning. I bought a new $150 battery, the heavy duty one, that Thursday. Friday everything was fine, 60 + miles. then Sunday for another 30 miles, no issues. This morning it almost didn't start, then later going home I needed to jump it again.
There is nothing plugged into any of the 12v power adapters. No Lights left on. Seems like it's not charging? So I was thinking alternator. Though reading on here seems Like i'd get some check engine lights/codes about the alternator??
What can I do to check if the alternator is charging? I have a meter and am good with electronics, but do not know that much about cars... Looks like the alternator is burried under the front left og the engine as you are looking at it standing in front??
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I've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
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My camry isn't starting and I thought it was the battery (5 yrs old) and got a new battery. After that, starting was difficult and it still wouldn't start. After a few aaa calls and realizing hitting the starter would get the car to start, I realized it might be the starter. Now, the car won't start even after having one person hit the starter while I turn the key.
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Yr 2000 F-150 with V6 . Only 68K miles. 3 weeks ago went into fast food for lunch and then truck would not start. The starter would spin it over real well and plenty of gas etc etc. I came back the next day with a tow truck to take it to the dealer and it cranked and ran perfectly for 3 weeks till yesterday. Same thing. Will not start in parking lot of grocery store.
I only have one key and someone suggested that it could be the chip in the key or the theft system acting up. I only have one key from when I bought the truck 7 years ago used. Someone else said when the anti theft system is screwing up, the motor will be totally dead and starter will not work.
This time I am again planning to tow to the dealer and I fear a huge bill for something that is actually very tiny at fault since the truck runs perfectly well and then mysteriously will not start. This is the 2nd time in 3 weeks I have been stranded. I pulled all the fuses and reinserted. I checked all spark wires and they are in good shape and tight. What could it be that all of a sudden causes the engine to not start up and run intermittently ?
It is something I can do myself and I am pretty capable. I replaced in the last year water pump, power steering pump, ball joints and alternator. So what is not getting..... fuel or spark? The only two things we need for to run ... right ?
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My uncle has a 1997 Corolla that has been sitting on his garage for about 2 years. We jump started the car and after a while recharging the battery, we saw fumes coming out from the engine. I then noticed that there was oil all over the front of the engine.. From what I have found in google it seems that this is a valve cover leak. How serious can these be? Are they easy to fix? because my uncle is thinking on calling the junkyard.
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So I've driven my 97 F-150 (4.6 L) around for several months now listening to that wretched left side exhaust leak caused by the nut on the EGR tube rotting off the nipple on the manifold. I tried plugging it, taping it with that exhaust "bandage" tape, etc. Nothing obviously ever lasted. And I sure didn't want to try replacing the manifold and then dealing with the potential broken studs, etc.
Then I finally got around to getting the gas tank straps replaced with that recall. So I took it to the dealership this past Friday. I mentioned the EGR tube leak kind of in passing. The service manager said they could fix it for about 80 bucks. He said they had successfully removed quite a few of those nipples without replacing the manifold. I kind of thought to myself "yeah right" (considering I live in the rust belt with all the road salt, etc.) and told them to go for it.
Not surprisingly, they called me back later in the day and said they couldn't get it out, and he wants to replace the manifold, etc. I just told him to plug it instead. When I picked up the truck, I learned the mechanic decided to WELD it instead of plugging it. I was pretty surprised that he tackled it, and he actually did a pretty decent job in sealing it except for one small pin hole on the back side between the welds. I mixed up some JB Weld and filled the pinhole. The welds may fail or the JB Weld blows out tomorrow, but, in the meantime, I don't have to listen to that wretched exhaust leak constantly. At least I'll have a few days peace if not longer
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So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
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This is a 2003 F150 4.6 liter Romeo engine with leak behind the oil filter. I can't tell if the leak is from the oil pressure sensor or the adapter behind it. I think it is from the adapter where it mates with the engine. My question is how the heck do I get it out to put in a seal? I can see one bolt but can't image it being held by one bolt.
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My 2003 f150 4x4 w/5.4 has 220k miles and only minor issues until a few days ago. I now have a coolant leak at the mating surface (both sides left and right) of the aluminum crossover coolant manifold (holds thermostat on one end). I have most of the bolts out to remove the crossover manifold but there is one bolt on the RH side that comes from the underside. All things equal, main question is... Can that crossover mainfold be removed independently from the intake? My thought is that in order to get to that last single bolt (there may be others I am not aware of yet) that I will need to remove the intake.
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So about 2 yes ago I had a cracked intake manifold and had it replaced..shortly after had low egr flow codes that had me replace every sensor involved on top and three that ford found for me. And fixed...my 01 f150 5.4 super crew has been my best friend last 165k of its 246. So it has a small leak in radiator. Didn't think that would do anything for a bit. Well after almost overheating a few times I pulled up to a job and water was pouring out the top back passenger side....blah blah blah saving 1400 this time I pulled everything to the head. Took off intake put back together torqued to 20lbs.
Still mix fires at low idle and low rpms.gets worse longer I sit at light have redone plugs switched coil pack at the misfire location..still missing. the round black sensor before the egr out of the intake has good vac in but limited to egr. Don't think this is right...has lean codes both banks....but I also had a PVC not in and the exhaust outflow sensor had a hose knocked off again...misfiring...checking hoses nothing obvious... Perhaps the spare coil is no good now....keep one two handy for wet locations... Did I not do intake right...and I did use rtv
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Not mine, but the guy claims his trucks battery light and CEL are on with the key off??? He's battery goes dead (it is new) and only 12.3 volts running with it revved up. My inclination would be alternator, but how can those 2 light in the dash be on with the key off? He did replace the ignition switch.... nothing ...same condition.
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