Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Multiple Exhaust Manifold Studs Broken On Both Side / Codes P1131 And P1151
Jan 3, 2012
I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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Truck Specs: 1997 F250 LD 184000 miles and a 5.4, automatic, shift on the fly 4x4 extended cab.
What I did: Changed the exhaust manifold gasket on the right side. There were some broken studs which came out with a stud remover.. No torch was used during this evolution.
What happened: After driving 10-15 miles it set the codes that I listed in the subject line. Reset the codes 20 or so miles later the P1131 code set again. (both times there was a noticeable loss of engine power) The upper O2 sensor checked out with a meter. When I checked the voltage on the truck's harness plug referenced to the NEG terminal on the battery, both the power and gnd had 12V- Key On Engine Not Running (KOENR).
What I did: Cleaned the connections put dielectric grease in the connections and reassembled. Reset codes; all was well ~ 100 Miles later the codes are back. I also ran a continuity check from the plug to the control module, they check out fine.
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I was looking at my exhaust manifold..and I found a couple of studs missing...so if I want to replace both of them , is it better if I replace all of them on both sides of the engine ?
By the way..my exhaust manifold is good I don't think none of the studs are broken.. but I have been having this engine knocking noise on my engine, do yall think a couple of studs could be the problem of why my engine is knocking?
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2003 F150 4.6 - I'm currently replacing the passenger side manifold studs. How the heck do you get to the bottom bolts? Looks like the motor mount is in the way. There's way more room on the 5.4s...
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I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
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I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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Broken exhaust studs and decided to get the Banks system. I haven't run across any problems with them in the old threads. Are you happy with your headers and exhaust now that it's been on a while?
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Just bought a 03, the seller showed me a exhaust leak. I found a bolt broken off, flush with the head. Looked at the passenger side when I got home, that side leaks too, and found one broken off bolt there too. Question, are these easy to do? As in, I have extracted broken bolts before, but they where on my V10 and I could just weld nuts to them and they came right out.
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So I received my International bellowed up pipes from Riffraff and I figure I will start soaking all of the bolts with some aerokroil before I get started on monday and I see the very last bolt head near the up pipe is gone. The bolt is there but the head is gone and you can definitely see soot buildup everywhere near it. I don't know if I should order a new manifold for the passenger side and new bolts, order a driver and passenger side manifold and new bolts, or just order one set of new bolts and try to get take the passenger side manifold off and replace the one broken bolt.
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'90 Maxima...A couple of my exhaust studs broke (it was a problem for this model) and now I have an annoying exhaust leak. I tried to put a new gasket, but it started to leak again. I am thinking of using permatex copper sealant....drilling out the broken bolts and replacing them would be very expensive I think.
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I got a 08 ford f450 sd in the shop with a cracked abd broken bolt in the driver's side exhaust manifold, any tips tricks on getting it out,I have everything loose but I can't for the life of me get the egr cooler out of the way to access the top bolts to the manifold so I can replace the manifold, or a link to a service manual would be great.
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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I have a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 past few months it has been throwing a p1151 code meaning it is coming up lean on the driver side. I just changed the plugs and it didn't work, neither did changing the fuel and air filters. cant find any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Replaced a bad injector along with the spark plugs and its still coming up lean.
The truck also seems to bog down at about 50-60 mph if i let off the gas and coast it will drop about 300 rpms. It has me confused and annoyed, i have true duals with glass packs could that be causing it?
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I have a 98 ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 it has 228,000miles standard tranny but I keep the truck running great. I did the plugs and wires about two weeks ago and it was running fine, actually great. This morning I got into the truck to start it this morning and it barely started. It fired up but barely stayed idling. I would get into the petal and it wouldn't raise rpms. I had to get to school so I headed out. I couldn't get any speed in gear the truck wouldn't gain speed. It would sputter and pop and then all of a sudden it would go ok but then start popping again. I took it to a buddy shop and his scanner showed p1131 and p1151 both codes. I don't know what to do?
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I am changing the passenfer side exhaust manifold on my '00 150. The bolts all came out fairly easy, sprayed them often in PB over the last 2 days, my problem is the 2nd and 3rd nuts on the bottom are under the motor mount. Do I need to remove that or is there an easier way that I'm missing.
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So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
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I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab 4.6 auto that has a leaking exhaust manifold. I changed both manifolds about 3 years ago and the passenger side bank is leaking again. I haven't gotten into yet to see if its just the gasket or the manifold itself. My question is does anyone know of a set of headers I can put on the truck that will bolt up to the existing exhaust? If I make the switch to headers I don't want to have to redo the whole exhaust system.
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Unfortunately I broke off one of the wheel studs on the front drivers side of my 2010 Prius. I got a new stud from Toyota but I'm not sure exactly how to put the new one on. Looking for any steps on how to replace a front wheel stud? Not even sure how to raise calipers/remove rotor (if that's necessary to replace stud)....
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If the exhaust manifold gasket is broke / cracked will it making a ticking sound?
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