it's missing at an idle and it acts like it dont wanna take gas but once you get it going on the road it does good. the motor is a remanufacture motor it's only got 6,000 miles, new coils, plugs and wires, cam sensor, crank sensor, idle air control, mass air flow,and temp switch.
View 9 RepliesI have 2002 f150, fx4, ext cab, 110000miles 5.4 automatic truck, i just replaced my spark plugs, it still have a little miss, thought spark plugs will resolve but its the same, im wondering if i should change O2 sensors? clean EGR Valve? IAC valve? i am not getting good gas mileage and maybe its this missfire or something, its runs good without any problems, just this slight miss makes me think if its the cause to bad MPG.
I tried to find threads with pictures of how to change O2, how to clean EGR, and IAC, i remember seeing these threads but cant find em. And you think these three things will resolve my MPG and the slight miss?
So today, I planned on switching the belt, idler pulley and tensioner since at least two of them are making noises. After taking all of the stuff off, belt, idler pulley and tensioner... and since I always compare parts I buy to parts that were in, making sure they are identical and I didn't order the wrong one. So first up I checked my tensioner and the position of them or angles are different, completely different.
So Google it to view a few diagrams and bang! it hits me... the one I took out from my F150 is for a non-AC... so back into the truck and I'm looking. Didn't have to go far when I realized that my AC compressor is missing!!!!
I keep looking around and I see that yes, I did have AC in it before I got it; because the guts are there but sliced! Great, so the job went from easy and easy I mean buy compressor and install; but now since the guts were cut, the PO sliced the thing out simply put.
1.) What are the bolt sizes that hold the compressor in place?
2.) Is there a wire connector on the compressor? or no?
I have a99 5.4 and its missing slightly when cold mostly. I'm thinking egr poss did tune up 7 mos ago so I don't think it's plugs or coil pacs seems to get better when it warms up...
View 11 RepliesMy 4.2 liter F150 suddenly started missing under load. A little background: It is a late 2003 and has 75k miles. It has been in my family since new, and I have had it for the last 4 years. This truck is as stock as they come, and has been well maintained.
On my way to work yesterday, it began missing. Not bad at first, but got worse. It misses while under load and under acceleration. The "check engine light" never came on. I have not put fuel in in several days, and it ran fine until now, so I doubt it is bad fuel. I started the engine after dark and looked for arcing. None visible, and I even sprayed the wires with a mist of water. I pulled the plugs and they all look normal. The gaps were all way too large, so I regapped the plugs to .054". I pulled the coil pack and it checks within range with my VOM. Can the coil pack be the problem even though it checks out on the bench? Can the large plug gaps have contributed to a coil pack failure?
Where to start. I HATE just throwing parts at this thing, and I don't like wasting money... If I let one of the auto parts stores run a scan, will it show a code even though I have no check engine light? I used to think of myself as a pretty good diagnostician, but then again, when I used to spend a lot of time under the hood, those cars had points, condensers and carburetors...
I have a 2002 f-150 4.6 that sometimes has a miss upon acceleration but not all the time.the truck is a 4.6 with a manual trans.has no engine codes and scanner never show a misfires but sometimes it does , have replaced all spark plugs and coil boots twice.
View 4 RepliesHave a p0401 code which I need to diagnose and solve. However, I don't believe the symptoms are indicative of the EGR system. Its a 1999 4.6L auto approximately 200k miles. Truck runs fine until it warms up, and then occasionally it begins to act like its missing under load. steady state on the freeway it may have an occasional miss, but put a load on the motor and the miss becomes real bad. This doesn't seem to me to be symptomatic of a P0401 code, but I don't really understand the EGR system enough to be sure. Searching on the forums for other p0401 codes doesn't seem to have the same symptoms.
View 10 RepliesI recently purchased a 1997 F150 4.2 Liter. On the way home it started missing. Within the next few days it died on the side of the road. After towing home I found no spark. A few days later I t started but only for a few minuites and died. No spark, coil pack is new so I replaced the CKP and it started up. Drove it about 1/2 Mile and died again, No spark again. Not getting power to coil pack when I am turning it over. So in short, new coil pack and CKP sensor and no spark. If it sits for a few days it may start or it may not. But if it does it only runs for a short period and then no spark again.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F150with the V6 motor, automatic transmission and 73k miles. It has begun having hesitation/missing problems at low rpm, 1000-1800 or so, and it feels like the engine shuts off for a fraction of a second. At idle and above that range it seems to run fine. Also, it only happens in Drive and when the engine is fully warned up - it does not do it when cold or in Neutral. Uphill, downhill, doesn't matter. There are no OBD codes. The spark plugs, air filter and MAF sensor have been replaced recently. I have OBD scantool on my laptop, but have not been able to use it yet.
View 1 RepliesThis a 02 with 5.4, had codes po306, pulled and checked sparkplug had moisture in it. Fixed that ran ok for a little bit then started again, no codes now and smells a little like rotten egg.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!
My truck was shuddering in od. So as I last effort thinking it might be injectors I pulled all of them and replaced all of the orings and valve cover harnesses. After all of this was done seemed to do nothing at all. Now a new problem has surfaced. It's having idle problems. It will now idle at 780-850 instead of 650-700rmps. Also on deceleration it will miss pretty bad. Checked all of my injectors again all connections are good and all of the injectors are tight. Not burning any oil. So I unplugged the icp and bam runs like a top perfect running engine. So I bought a new one and plugged it in and itake doing the same thing. So what is going on! Also it was throwing a random check engine light but wouldn't bring a code up I'm completely lost....
View 2 RepliesI was looking at my exhaust manifold..and I found a couple of studs missing...so if I want to replace both of them , is it better if I replace all of them on both sides of the engine ?
By the way..my exhaust manifold is good I don't think none of the studs are broken.. but I have been having this engine knocking noise on my engine, do yall think a couple of studs could be the problem of why my engine is knocking?
I've got a 97 f150 4.6 that has randomly started missing over the last month. It has started to get more frequent and codes are showing a misfire on both cylinder 1 and 8. Both of these cylinders run off the same coil pack. I'm thinking its the coil? The plugs and wires, motocraft, have about 3k on them and the truck runs great otherwise. I just don't know how common a coil would cause this or if they would act intermittent like this.
View 5 RepliesHave a problem with starting. Truck had an alarm system that I took off. Reconnected the wires back to factory. Installed a new battery-starter cable. Checked and had no radio and no power windows. Found two relays missing and one fuse under the hood missing. Installed new. Tried again and have all accessories but will do nothing when turning key to start. With key on I can jump across solenoid by starter and it will start. Once started it will not allow me to shift out of park. If I shut truck off and turn key to on position I can shift out of park and into neutral and jump across solenoid and it runs. Once I shift back into park it kills the truck and we start all over again. I've traced wires and fuses and can't find anything. 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4l....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
View 14 Replies02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 crew cab, it currently has bench seats with the center console missing. Can I put a 40-20-40 split bench seat out of a 2012 f250 in my truck? And if so how much modification will need to be done?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
View 2 RepliesWell, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.