Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Metallic Screech - Timing Chain?
Mar 23, 2014
I have a 4.2 with 330km (206k miles). Recently I have noticed some unfamiliar sounds that I'm trying to diagnose. First off, lately when starting the truck cold, it sometimes makes a metallic screech /clank-like noise. It just lasts for a moment when the engine catches, then disappears. Doesn't happen every time but has happened at least 1/2 dozen times the last couple of weeks. Sounds like metal gears colliding. Haven't noticed any drive-ability issues.
As well, I changed the oil a couple of days ago and when I stuck my head under the truck afterwards to check for leaks, I could hear a definite rattling / clattering noise from the area near the oil filter.
Does this sound like timing chain?
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OK, my truck is making all kinds of horrible noises from the timing chain area. it is a 97 f150, 4wd with a 4.6. i know i need to replace it. BUT my question is, how long can i let it go before the chain breaks and sends valves into piston? And also what is the best timing set manufacturer? or are they all pretty good?
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Can you change the tensioners and guides without removing the chains or getting the cam lock tools ? Doing a in truck repair to fix a squeal sorta noise at start up without the belt on coming from passenger side valve cover that lasts for about 5 sec. oh fyi CRC new freeze off works wonders compared to jb blaster for my tear down so far!
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My 2003' Explorer XLT (4.0L V6) has an oil leak. I tracked it down to the passenger side, rear, bolt head on the valve cover (back by firewall). I took it to a guy who replaced the valve cover gaskets, but it is still leaking. He claimed when he had the cover off he looked for any cracks on it, but did not see any at the time.
Anyways, I was searching around and found several explorers leaking in or around the same area of the valve cover. And it turned out that there issue stemmed from bad timing chain guides, causing the valve cover to crack.
I do notice that on a cold start, I hear a rattling when I first start it up. It rattles for maybe that first 1-2 seconds when starting. Is this my timing chain rattling around? If that is the case, how much this could set a guy back on repairs?
I guess I don't know whether to just replace the valve cover, or if I should dig into it to see if the real issue is the timing chain guides/tensioner. Mileage is approximately 121,000....
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I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer explorer with the 4.0L SOHC . I have a coolant leak from the passenger side that is not a water pump issue.
When removing the timing chain cover with the engine in the car, do I need to remove any accessories ( power steering , alternator etc. ) or their brackets?
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I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
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I am going to start from the beginning because oftens times we don't provide all of the information that may be pertinent to the correct diagnosis or repair. It'll be kind of lengthy! It all started about 3 days ago when my wife told me that my truck was "shaking." I said, "ok, just drive the car til' I can look at it" The next morning, the I was able to look at the truck. I had a cylinder 8 misfire detected. I drove it for about 1 hour that day to and from work. I did this so I could see what what the "shaking" was. It was actually what I describe as a "shudder."
Anyways, I done a fuel pressure check and all was well. I took of the coil, tested it, it was fine. So, I took out the plug to inspect it. It was wet! Not drinched, just mildly damp. I dried it off, cleaned it off with carb cleaner and it fired right up no hesitation no nothing. No CEL light, no shaking, no shuddering. It ran perfectly normal. I let it warm up to speed and took it for a test drive around about 6 city blocks. All was well. So I took it on the highway for about a 2 mile stretch. I was givin' her some juice pretty hard to see if it would misfire. Upon acceleration I heard a screech. Now this is where it get's interesting.
The screech that I hear, I just related it to the belt because it's done it ALL the time. When I first bought the truck it squalled like a whipped puppy cause of a cheap belt. The good ol' bar of soap trick fixed that! But, ever since then, it upon shifting, or under acceleration it would screech then stop. So anyways, on the highway run, it screeched while I was accelerating. It did this from about 60mph-80mph. I then, turned around and came back home. By the time I got to the stoplight to turn off towards my house my oil light was on and the engine was knocking. Not a tap, a knock.
I slowly coasted home not going over 20mph and pulling it out of drive as much as I could. I get home, and I check the oil and there is nothing on the dipstick! WTF!? I always run Mobil1 Full synthetic and put it 6qts. It doesn't smoke, doesn't leak or nothing! So I freaked out and went and bought 2 qts of Valvoline Hi-Mi and poured it in. It brought up the hash marks and quieted the deep knock. Later that night after work, I done a full oil change and flush and put back in my Mobil1 Fully synthetic 5w20. It now knocks at startup, and smooths out to a tic. Then at idle, it sounds like a light knock. It appears that it goes away upon acceleration.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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looking for any tech writeups or any good info on changing out timing chains on a '99 1/2ton with 5.4. I mostly am concerned about keeping it in time during the process.
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I have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
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My truck has had this annoying tendency to drink coolant. I believe I took care of it by replacing the thermostat gasket. Not so, it drinks about a quart every 50 miles - so quite a bit really.
Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer so that they could figure out where the coolant was going.
Answer I got back was - timing cover gasket, water pump, lower radiator hose.
The water pump appears to be good, its just the gasket that's bad. So my question is - how significant is the timing chain cover leak? Poking around online it appears to be reasonably common, but sounds very expensive. The dealer indicated it would be 2 days work minimum.
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Replacing the timing chains and tensioners on an SOHC Explorer, only to have the tensioners fail again after only a few thousand miles? I'm a pretty experienced back yard mechanic and have rebuilt several engines over the years with great results, but this one has me stumped. The only part of the instructions I did not do was to remove the valve springs, but everything was lined up as it should have been using the special tools required to set the timing. I really like the truck, but don't know if it's worth fixing if this is just going to happen again.
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I really love this little truck. It's got 129,000 on it, but when I shut it down I can hear the chain clattering on the guides a little. Makes me wonder how much longer it will go before jumping a tooth. The truck has always been well maintained, but is there any ballpark figure when they usually let go? Is it worth it to pull the engine and put in a new chain? I'm fairly new to the Ranger.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC while the engine is running the left side timing chain rattles. I replaced the timing chain and guides and tensioner, the engine has good oil pressure but the noise is still there.
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It is timing chains that are prematurely stretching causing this startup noise. The news is that there is updated parts out there to address this and Ford now has a TSB on this issue formally admitting to it being a common problem. I go over it all in this video. There is also a link to just how it sounds in the description of the video on youtube.
Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost Rattle Upon Start Up- Timing Chain Stretch Issues - YouTube...
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There was a time Ford when used a nylon toothed timing chain gear on the camshaft. Over time this got brittle and started to break into pieces. The rule of thumb at our household was to change these at about 100k miles.
I think that was a "302" thing and all "5.0" engines have all metal gears? I have no reason to open up our '99 Explorer's 5.0 with 180,000 miles. But, I will change the timing chain if it should be done.
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I have 2000 V6 3.0 Ranger and it has sprung a small coolant leak from timing chain cover gasket. I think just few drips after driving a while since I don't see significant drop in coolant level (Took a month to notice level dropped in reservoir) and did not see an active leak while idling. No water in the oil.
The proper repair would be to replace the gasket, but for the age and condition of the truck, I don't think it is worth it. Searching for a cheaper solution, I found K-Seal and see lots of reviews with success. Will it damage the cooling system in anyway? I think it would be worth a try even if it doesn't fix the leak as long as it does not cause any harm.
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I have an 05 5.4 f250 that had a stuck injector. I changed plugs before I realized it was injector. After that the truck had a terrible rattling noise. I ended up changing timing tensioners and guides (guide was broken). Started it up and have the same noise, like timing chain is loose.
What I think happened is gas got into oil when injector was stuck. I had key on to pull codes. Then it lost oil pressure?
Could this cause can phases to go bad? Also can I just install lockouts or do I need to replace phasers as well?
Not sure if there's anything else I should check
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I had the front timing chain cover replaced, ever since it hasn't started. It would turn over fast a couple times and then drag and then repeat.
Found out the "Tone ring" was warped, it's been replaced and now it just turns over and over and no start but it doesn't drag anymore.
We can smell the fuel, and pulled a plug and can see spark while turning over and I was told fuel came out the plug hole so there is fuel there.
Tried a new cam sensor, crank sensor and battery and no change. Is there something else in the removal and replacement of the front timing chain cover that could be causing this?
I'm not a huge believer in coincidence as the vehicle was running great before this job.
2006 Ford Escape
3.0L v6 w auto tranny.
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So working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
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