I have been getting some knocking the under most any loads . I do not have any codes. I tried premium gas and that did not make any difference. If this is not fixed what issues can this cause? What should I look for do get this fixed?
View 14 RepliesI have an 06 with 105000 miles. Since about 95000, I've been starting to get what sounds like a fuel knock with medium-high load on the engine. Thought it was carbon at first, but a few applications of Techron didn't clear it. Higher octane does seem to solve it.
Do the knock sensors go bad on a Prius? What's the proper way to diagnose the knock sensor on a Prius? (can't exactly bang on the block with a wrench at idle and listen for fuel adjustments on a car that doesn't idle).
I have noticed since day 1 of owning my v8, that there i a horrible sound that comes from the exhaust upon medium to heavy acceleration - a loud fluttering is the best way i can describe it. I took it to the dealer and one tech said something was definitely wrong, the other went and got a new reg off the showroom floor and demonstrated that it is common and normal. Although another new reg did the same thing, i am not convinced that this obnoxious sound is normal ...
View 17 Replies1996 gmc jimmy knocking at medium RPM no knocking at idle or high RPM it sounds like it may be coming from the transmission
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2012 SE V6 with 1600 km in it. Literally brand new car, two days ago I noticed a faint knock when driving normally over medium sized bumps in the road. Sound seems like it is coming from the front drivers side. It's not my first time around the block and wonder if it's suspension related or steering related. It's going to the dealer tomorrow...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2009 V6 Ltd with about 15k miles. It has always seemed to shift a little too hard from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd under light to medium throttle. Does this sound like a transmission ill that can be fixed by adjustments?
View 8 RepliesEarly 99 F250 7.3 Manual 4WD Extended Cab Short Bed
I am at a loss. I have a slight vibration/medium roar seemingly coming from front. I have tried fixing/replacing several things, with no luck. When I get above 35-40 mph, I can hear a whirling vibration that sounds like tire tread noise (very little tread on tires). When I tap the brakes, seems to make a difference, seems to get louder as I slow down. I can feel it in the clutch and accel. pedals. It is consistent, when I push clutch in and let idle at 45mph, it is still there. Doesn't seem to make a difference when swaying back and forth, maybe a little. When i get below 25-30mph it isn't noticeable.
Here is what i've done so far :
1.Replaced both front wheel bearing assemblies, rotors and brakes
2.Replaced drivers side brake caliper (seemed to be sticking a bit?), will do passenger side tomorrow
3.Serviced both hub locks and verified front axle is not engaged (one was locked for some time, I thought I found issue, but still have vibration)
4. Tightened pitman arm joint, was slightly loose (need to replace)
5. Inspected tie rod ends and other joints, see no noticeable movement, but have not marked them off the culprit list.
6. Tightened output shaft nut, was a little loose
7. Raised rear end off on jack stands, and revved up to 50 mph, and no vibration, so I have excluded u joint and cardan joint, everything points to front end
8. Rotated tires, left front to right rear
What I haven't done :
1. Have a leak in pinion seal, not replaced yet
2. Seems the upper and lower ball joint had the slightest, I mean slightest play in it when lifting the front driver side wheel (I mean less than 16th inch) but could hear it. I haven't done anything with this yet ... may be the problem? Would a tire out of balance wreak this much havoc with this amount of movement?
3. Haven't replaced the pitman arm joint, will but not sure if this can create issue.
Nothing I've done seems to make a difference.
My truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
If we have the air on a medium or high setting (A/C or just vent air) and coming out of the middle vents (at your face in other words), then turn the car off with the fan speed on that medium to high setting, then turn the car on later, the air comes out of the defroster (windshield) instead, even though the middle (face) setting is selected.
I have to turn the air fan speed right down to the lowest setting, then the air switches to the vents (face), and I can then turn the fan speed back up again. Its like it has a weak flap or something in the dash that diverts the air around. Car is an 03 6.0l limited with the "climate control" (the buttons and digital display).
My Ford F250 XLT (HD) 2 wheel drive has recently developed a shimmy; a shaking of the steering wheel that usually occurs at medium speeds, and seems worse when going around a curve. But since it doesn't seem safe to drive, I dropped by a local shop for a diagnosis. Their thought was that I had a caliper sticking, since it pulled to the left when they test drove it and applied the brakes, and maybe rotors since the vibration indicated warped rotors. Since I hadn't mentioned shaking during braking, I paid the diagnostic and moved on.
Upon leaving, the shaking started up again going around the first curve, at about 35-40 mph. Shortly after that I took it to a dry, flat, unbusy stretch of road, and applied the brakes at about 60 mph, and brought it to a stop in it's lane with my hands off the wheel; no pull either way. Now I have it up on stands, and have visually and physically checked the parts I know and recognize, i.e., ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, etc. I don't know how to inspect gear box, or steering shaft issues, but steering wheel play is minimal.
On the way home today upon medium acceleration I heard a pop kinda like a backfire ......now black smoke pours out on acceleration.no much in line of power either. Hoping I haven't screwed the motor ...
6.0 ltr turbo diesel 2004 f-350 super duty crew cab 4x4 ....
I have a 2012 Explorer Limited with 95K miles. Under medium to hard braking, the steering wheel wobbles, and the car slows irregularly. I'm struggling to find the best word to describe. It's not a vibration or a shudder. It's like a pulsing that is slow enough to be counted. The car doesn't pull to a side under braking, either.
I put a dial indicator on both rotors, and they are nearly perfectly flat. There is no evidence of a leak anywhere. The only think I noticed is that the DS caliper had a little more pressure on the rotor, making the rotor harder to turn than the PS rotor.
I have a 2016 Superduty. I was sitting still in the drive, engine running and Tx in Park. Following the manual's instructions, I put the Tx in Neutral, turned the 4x4 to 4x4 high and then to 4x4 low. I then pulled the to engage the electric locking rear diff. I put the Tx in Reverse with the foot still on the brake and then as I gradually lifted pressure off the brake pedal (I think) and started creeping, I heard a medium pitched grinding; not so much like spur, helical, or hypoid teeth grinding; more like cog gears. I stopped the truck and disengaged everything. Later in the day while on dirt I put her through her paces proper and all was fine. I guess I'd like to just know, given that this is my first 4x4 with so much electric shifting, what actually happened. If you are pretty sure of what I heard but are puzzled by the sequence, I could have the order of things a bit off as my brain was just about wiped completely free of all memory when I heard that sound so I may have the order of what I actually did, wrong.
View 4 Replies94 blazer ac fan will work on low and med but not high replaced resistor under hood but still no high speed fan?...........
View 8 RepliesI recently performed the MDI update, and now whenever I connect something to the USB, I get a "Check Medium" error message.
View 10 RepliesHad my first drive with the windows down for a long time and noticed a new medium to high pitched whine, stays relative to engine speed. Not the turbo, its much louder than that, i searched about the water pump issues and no one seemed to mention any associated noise, just coolant on the driveway. Waterpump? Alternator?
View 5 RepliesThis morning, I hit the brakes medium hard and got a short metal-on-metal 'scrape' noise from the rear end. It sounded like a brake shoe to me. Later my wife was out shopping and did a 'regular' stop and got the same noise.
The car isn't driven a lot. It's just under 1.5 years old and has 5,400 miles on it. So, I'm pretty sure there isn't a lot of brake wear. Maybe a little above average from mostly city driving. I assume the rear brakes are self-adjusting. Do they make noise when they are adjusting?
I have a 92' Century w/107 K miles that has a medium rough idle. This is a summer use vehicle for me. I have done the normal maintenance on this motor w/ new plugs and a good Napa wire set. Any bad vacume lines that I can get at have been replaced including the vacume tree on top of the motor. Has anybody had coil issues or ground issues with this motor?
View 2 RepliesStarts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 LS460L. Bought it new and have loved it dearly for 6 years now. It now has 70k miles and is under an extended warranty purchased at 50k miles. As a first year model it has had a ton of TSBs done on it.
The problem i have had as long as i can remember is a lag or stutter during medium to hard acceleration. It feels a little like the old turbo lag or like a very mild stutter. It has had the transmission adjusted, had the service manager driver it for a week to try and capture on computer etc. But nothing has fixed it. At times it feels like if you watch the tachometer during these moments you can actually see a bounce (I may be imagining).
I have almost given up and just lived with it. We have tried tranny, type of oil, software tweaks etc.
I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?