1999 F150 has a tremble or vibration between 27 and 40 MPH it does it in any gear but only between these speeds. I thought to begin with it might be a slight misfire, but seems like if that was the cause it would happen at any speed...
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 2003 F150 sport Scab 4x4 with 75k miles from a Ford dealer with a 4.6l auto. we didn't notice it when we test drove it but it has a squeak when going 0-10 mph in forward or reverse. The story goes a week after getting it home we started noticing a vibration and thudding in the rear end when braking so I take it back to the dealer (50 mile trip 1 way) and when I get there the drivers side rear rim is 30 degrees hotter than the passengers so the tear it apart and find the e-brake was dragging so they lube it up and tell me its good to go. I made it around the building and now I feel it dragging iddling around the parking lot and it is still squeaking so I take it right back in.
Long story short after going through this 2 times that day and bringing it back another day they replaced rear pads, calipers, roters and the hoses going to the caliper and tell me its good to go. Well it no longer had the dragging feel and I had to drive through DC traffic so I beat feet for home and on the way noticed its still sqeaking. I call them and they tell me to put a thousand miles on it and maybe the pads just need to wear in (??). so I took a road trip and 1.2k miles later it still squeaks.
I have tried to tell them it may be the u joints (after searching on here I learned that I am taking it back tomorrow and going to try and get something done but they are still saying its something to do with the brakes and probably won't do the u-joints. Normally, they are filling up the gas tank every trip up there and its all been under warranty (gonna see about getting the warrenty extended tomorrow due to this problem has been ongoing since we got it). Should I just let them run their own course and keep making trips back and forth?
Have a 1997 2wd F-150 XLT auto trans with 305,000 miles that has developed at vibration that is most noticeable at 55-60mph. It seems to start at about 35, but at 55 you can feel it in your seat. When it's vibrating shifting into neutral doesn't change anything.
Drive shaft u-joints: two rear replaced not too long ago (5+ years?), front joint by transmission seems to move freely, but isn't excessively sloppy, carrier bearing okay. Have done the following with no improvement:
Re-balanced all tires, no problems noticed during the balance;
Replaced first right and then left rotor and wheel bearings, no change.
Several mechanics have driven it and made different pronouncements, it's not: transmission, rear-end, tires, u-joints or carrier bearing. One mechanic ran it while up on his lift and didn't see a driveshaft balance problem. Last suggestion was that the left wheel bearing were "on their way out", so they were the most recent change. It's drivable, but not fun and it produces a lot of noise in the cab.
I haven't really gotten under it to check this out, but my truck (see signature) has a slight vibration on take off. It only does it when the wheels are turned to the right or left. They don't have to be turned very far either. It doesn't do it on straight line take offs, or on a take off from a rolling stop. ONLY when pulling off from a dead stop and the front wheels are turned any degree to the right or left. I'm running mostly bald all terrain tires, the wheels are not bent. My current wheels are new to the truck, and the problem was there with the previous rim/tire combination. The rear end doesn't seem to have any slack in it. The transmission shifts like a top. There are no other clanks or vibrations anywhere in the drivetrain and it drives good.
View 9 RepliesThe truck is a 1997 F250 light duty extended cab with the 4.6 triton v8. The motor appears to run smooth and idles good, from my perspective. It accelerates smoothly, as well, and seems to cruise at an otherwise smooth rate. Until I hit around 50. Then it transitions right into a shake, or vibration. I know I need to be more specifc with the symptoms here, but it's pretty hard to feel where it's coming from. I feel it in the steering wheel, but also, it feels like the whole truck. My dog, oddly enough, will look at the center floor with his head tilted, when it starts to vibrate, I know he's got a better sense of hearing then me.
So, up to about 60 and over that it seems to go away. Sink back down below 60, vibration is back. below 50, seems to go away. It does it in and out of overdrive, does it when I pop it into neutral, but when truck speed goes down below 50 or over 60 for the most part, under various said stimuli, the vibration fades away. I'll also add that the vibration increases substantially with greater acceleration...The more gas I give it, the worse it seems to get, but still, only within the 50 to 60 range. Not as bad when cruising and/or coasting, but still vibrates regardless. Otherwise, acceleration from dead stop and over 60 is good.
So far, I rotated the tires and only difference I noticed after this was a little bit of a shimmy at 40 to about 43 mph that wasn't there before I rotated the tires. They probably need to be balanced, but the vibration at 50 to 60 doesn't seem to be tire related. The 50 to 60 mph thing is more like an overall vibration. I'm thinking driveshaft maybe? I checked the u-joints and they seem pretty tight...no movement I could feel by hand. I also check the front end a little bit, and tried to see if anything looked or felt funny, like any excessive play in the ball joints or tie rods, etc. That all appeared okay.
So, for now, I just try to avoid 50 to 60 mph. Harder then one would think...you end up either getting tailed or tailing someone. I guess that's all for now. If you need more info, I'll try to get it to this post as soon as I get a chance. Also, not sure of the trans I have. You all probably know better then me, but once I get a chance to check, will let you know. I don't think it's trans related or torque converter. I am not slipping or knocking, but forgot to check the trans fluid, which I will also update the condition of that when I get a chance.
Also, engine seems to run smooth. I didn't change out the plugs or wires per what I would think normal maintenance, but have nightmares of doing the plugs and breaking one. especially on these tritons. I had a e350 with the 5.4? that blew a plug and stripped out the threads. This 4.6 doesn't look any friendlier to navigate, with the fuel rails in the way and all. But if that is the problem and needs to be done, well, I'll get it done if I have to. But, like I said, idles well and accelerates up to 50 fine...no ticking or unusual sounds, at least that I notice.
My 2000 F150 started knocking, it does this after I get up to speed and let off the gas a bit, it will know as I push on the gas again but if I push heavy on the gas it dose not knock, What could if be? By the way it is a hard knock not a pinging sound.
View 3 RepliesThis started about a month ago. The truck surges at any speed as long as the gas pedal is at a static position. There are no codes. I have replaced the fuel filter air cleaner cleaned the maf and did a ton of reading on this issue. Is it the tps? The tps voltage does not fluctuate any when it surges. Maf,? Should be throwing a code right? Same as the egr valve. What am I missing?
View 8 RepliesI have 2002 5.4L f150 120k miles. Bought it almost 2 years ago and did not notice this vibration at the time but it could have been there and I didn't realize it. The trans was replaced by ford with a reman at 90k. I'd assume they inspected the trans mounts but who knows.
At idle only, there is a vibration. Enough that I can see water in a bottle moving and a plastic bag shake., felt through the seat, hand on engine can feel it, can feel it through the door..etc. Very annoying. At 700-750 rpm it goes away. Happens in all gears. I don't want to shotgun approach this. What I've done: Replaced plugs and coils since it needed them anyway. They looked good! No difference. I've sprayed the maf down and cleaned the throttle plate (I know your not supposed to but some 16 year old will try to tell me it cured his idle and he gained 10 mpg, so I figured I would mention it). I've removed the IAC and cleaned it, plunger moves freely. My idle does not fluctuate. I have watched mode $6, it's not a misfire. I have removed the pcv hose and checked for cracks - it's in good shape. Replaced the pcv since it's cheap. Ran Chevron tehcron through it. Checked codes - nothing. I have an edge and it happens on all tunes as well as stock.
I have ability to read live data but do not know enough to interpret it, so that is about useless unless you can provide me acceptible ranges.
2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
I have a 2000 f-150 4x4 that has only high fan speed for a/c heater. Speeds 1-2-3- no longer exist. Is it a switch or a control module? Also, the door code for the rear differential is 19; is that limited slip?
View 8 Replies2004 F150, 4.6 V8. I'm wondering if my engine control module is going bad.
A few weeks ago I got into it in the morning, turned the ignition on, gauges responded as expected, warning lights on, etc. After starting the engine, all of the gauges peg to the left, and sort of "tremble", as if they were trying to keep going past the stop. After 5 seconds or so, they move up normally. This happens every time I start it now.
Since this weird gauge behavior started I have had to disconnect the battery to clean the negative terminal. After reconnecting it started experiencing idle problems. It idles smoothly, hitting on all 8, but it wavers. I found instructions in the owners manual for "relearning the idle and fuel trim strategy". It's been a over a week since doing this, and it still wavers and throws a P0506 error periodically, which I have been clearing. Twice while coasting the tachometer has jumped up to around 2000 rpm and the engine cut off, like maybe it thought the engine revved and closed the throttle to "slow it down".
My question is, have I just not waited long enough for it to re-learn to idle, or is it possible the engine control module is starting to fail?
I have a 1999 F-150, 4.2L V6 with 206,000 miles that recently developed a rear-end shudder/vibration. According to my door jam axle code (27) and the axle tag (3 37), I have what appears to be a conventional rear differential, even though most of my research would indicate this rear-end is for the F-250. In any case, and based on other online research, I changed the differential oil with a 75W-140 synthetic and added 4oz of a friction modifier. Now the vibration appears to be worse. It primarily vibrates when taking off from a stop, whether turning or not.
I have felt the vibration at speeds up to 60mph, but it is more noticeable at lower speeds. The vibration also seems to diminish after driving the truck for longer periods of time, particularly if at highway speeds. In other words, when I drive to and from work, which is about 30 minutes each way of mostly highway, the vibration is barely noticeable once I exit the highway and slow back down to 35-40mph. When feeling the vibration, if I decelerate, the vibration immediately ceases, but starts again when I accelerate. It's not as noticeable if I accelerate harder, but I generally don't do that. The gears inside the differential didn't have any noticeable wear, chips or slop/play. What may be plaguing my usual trouble-free F150?
My truck was running awesome, until, Out of NOWHERE, she started feeling super sluggish with a lot of loss of power, sounds like she is misfiring,or out of timing, and all the sudden started vibrating, the harder I accelerate, the more the vibrates.
When I start her up, she idles fine.If I try to drive her,givin he gas is like pulling a trailer with the e brake on, and she starts to vibrate. I've looked at some websites that have diagnostics from Bad timing, to spark plug wires, to plugs, to a bad fuel pump.
So I did what any other self diagnosing guy would do, I hooked up an actron scanner to see what codes she pulled up. Below are the specks of my truck, and the codes the actron scanner gave me. It just shows me codes, and have no way to interpret them..
BTW, I parked the truck till I find out what the hell I an do to fix her, not many mechanics where I live, so It looks like I'll be going at it alone.
So for the vibration, I checked the obvious, tires and rods are good and tight,had someone check the rotation, and its not alignment or balance.
Truck: '97 F-150
4.6L FI V8, SOHC 16V
Short Bed 4x4
Codes:
P0155
P0401
P0153
P0155
P1151
P0308
P1000
Last August I bought a 2002 Ford F 150 extended cab 4x4 only until the weather got really cold did I start noticing this kind of like almost vibration or like the rear end is slipping but it doesn't happen all the time it only happens when I take off but once I get driving then it goes away...
View 4 Replies2001 F150 2WD 4.6 102,000 miles.... All rotors and pads replaced by a shop and the trouble began. The shop swore it was my tires and like a dummie I took it to Sams and had my tires replaced.
What's been done? New BFG Long Trail T/A Touring Tires, rotors and pads were replaced a second time, new Monroe shocks and the shocks were replaced a second time, new U-joints, front wheel bearings repacked, ball joints inspected and have slight wear, new driveshaft at 20,000 miles, two new rims, two new back tires of same type, wheels balanced over and over with road force equipment. All this got rid of a dangerous shake at 67 mph but did not affect the 42 mph bounce.
I now have a pronounced bounce at 42 mph. I have an annoying vibration at 67 mph that is present 97% of the time and an occasional smooth ride for 3-4 miles on the interstate before the vibration resumes. The ride is always rough until the tires warm up. I think the vibration is caused by the road and the truck can't stop it, but I'm not sure. Three shops are scratching their heads.
Bought the truck knowing it needed a little work because it sounded like a diesel when running. So I had the timing chain, tensioners, water pump, etc. replaced and that fixed that problem. Then, a couple days later, a spark plug blew out of the engine. So, I go to do a full tune-up to find out that 3 of the 8 cylinders already had heli-coils in them.
I pulled those three and bored out and re-tapped the cylinders using the Cal-Van inserts. This has worked beautifully so far. I also replaced all of the other plugs as well with double platinum plugs. I also replaced all COPs. This got the truck running again and it drives great. No loss of power whatsoever. It just runs like a dog at idle. As soon as I give it throttle it smooths out completely.
It seems like the problem gets worse as the engine starts to get up to normal operating temp. Basically, if I am idling, in gear or in park, the truck shakes pretty bad. It kind of feels like it's starved for fuel or barely missing. I do not have any codes though and if it is a miss, it is completely gone under throttle.
Other things I have replaced within the past couple of weeks:
EGR
EGR vacuum solenoid
DPFE
Both PCV elbows
PCV valve
Air filter
Harmonic balancer
Other things I have done:
Cleaned IAC
Cleaned throttle body butterfly (including EGR ports)
Checked TPS voltage
I'm sure there are other things that I am forgetting.
The idle seems low to me but I'm not sure what is considered standard for the 5.4l. Mine idles around 600 in park once engine is warm and the needle doesn't move despite the roughness felt. Just going by the tach, you would think that the idle was smooth as silk.
Truck info:
2000 Ford F-150 XLT
5.4L V8 2V
150k miles
I have a 4.6 01 F150 with 3.08 rear end I got back in Sept. In Nov. I replaced the timing chain/guides and brakes/rotors all the way around. I have also flushed the cooling sys. and replaced all the coil packs/plugs in Nov. About 2 months ago I started feeling a vibration(feels like the truck is bouncing most of the time not bad but I know something isnt right) at ~37MPH. Not always bad but 98% of the time you can feel it.
I feel it at other speeds sometimes also. 2% of the time I dont feel anything. It had older tires and I got a new set ~ 3 weeks ago and its the same. A couple days ago I put a GoPro under it and filmed the driveshaft and it does seem to be bent some. What might be my issue or things I can check myself? One other note is the previous owner did use the truck to haul a horse trailer some and I know now that rear end was not the best for that! Truck has 210K on it and engine was replaced at ~ 150K
2001 F150 Driveshaft wobble - YouTube
I went down the street and back and only got up to ~35MPH
01' Screw 5.4 4wd. Went camping this past weekend and it was the first outing for this truck our TT weighs 6k. When accelerating from a dead stop going straight I'm getting a rumble strip like vibration that last a second. If I take off very easy it doesn't do it. I've seen similar post but no definitive solutions. This truck has less then a 100k on it and so far I've changed the trans filter/fluid rear end oil with modifier and new spark plugs.
Once I'm rolling and hammer down it won't do it. It's more of a annoyance then anything.
I purchased a 2003 F-150 Screw a few months back. Within a week I noticed a noise that sounded like a bad ujoint. To it to a shop and they confirmed it. They told me they replaced both. I only drive about 4 miles to work around 40 mph. Friday I had to go out of town and this was the trucks 1st road trip. I noticed that around 55 the truck feels fine. At 65 there is a shake / vibration. At 75 it is very noticeable. At 1st I though front end, but after a few hour I noticed the feeling can be felt in the seat of my pants type of thing. Or my foot on the kicker panel. Truck has 27K on it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 f150 with a 4.2 manual with four wheel drive I need to replace the speed sensor in the transfer case it looks a lot like the one in the rear end I've called the auto parts stores and they show nothing. What sensor I can use ? I did find one on rock auto that said it was for the transfer case but after looking into there part I found it was for a automatic ...
View 1 RepliesAbout 3 days ago I noticed my engine RPM was around 250 higher than usual. Usually my truck idles around 550-600 rpm (I know this is low). Anyway, yesterday it threw the P1506 "IAC over Speed Error" Code. It is idling very rough, shifting weird, but does crank up fine.
My truck is now at 93,000 miles and I just cleaned the IAC at 87,000 miles due to the common no start condition. I guess I am going to get a new IAC now since another code came up.
Well, my question is it came up with two other codes also:
P0171 - System too Lean, Bank No. 1
P0174 - System too Lean, Bank No. 2
Do you think the P1506 (IAC Code) made the O2 Sensor codes show up or is it really the O2 Sensors? I just changed my two upstream O2 Sensors around 90,000 miles. Should I get a new IAC or try to clean it again?