Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Loud Popping Noise Almost A Clunk When Making A Slow Sharp Turn
May 2, 2015
Lariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
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97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
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At 120k miles, my 2003 Camry LE 2.4L started to make some noise when making sharp right turn at low speed (below 5mph) going forward. It sounds like the tire rubbing the fender or somewhere, not metallic, and it's periodic, at 2-3Hz or so. It comes from somewhere on the driver side but I'm not sure. The car doesn't make noise when turning at stop or backing up or going straight, and the noise seems to disappear if turning at higher speed (maybe the turn is not sharp enough).
First I suspect the tire is rubbing the fender. But after inspection, no rubbing marks can be found, and there seems no rubbing when the car is parked and the wheel turn all the way to the right. Then I suspect a bad CV axle. But the boots seem in good shape with no leaking grease, and there's no noise when backing up.
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I've had my R since late mid-summer, and one of the first things I noticed was this clunk sound when reversing into my parking spot and when making an aggressive sharp turn. Usually Left.
After reading multiple threads on this topic, I came to the conclusion that it was my sub-frame and the bolts need replacing. I got in a GB for the tyrol subframe stiffening kit after reading some good reviews/responses.
Today, on my day off, I finally went to a mechanic to get this installed. I just changed my mechanic, and this was my first visit to the guy hes had over 10 years experience at vw and just opened up his own shop. He did a great job, torqued the bolts to spec, made me drive around, do some pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear, reverse forward etc.
So hes about to pull the car back in to retorque and.... CLUNK...
Get in the car, reproduce the sound, get the car back up on the hoist... and at this point I'm expecting the worse. He takes my control arms off, checks the end links...
Brings the car down, and the clunking sound is louder than ever. It was the weathergaurd. When I turned on the wheel it was pulling it out and when I straightened the wheel it was popping it back into place, making a big clunk sound.
This was the exact sound that I was hearing, thinking it was my subframe. The bolts that came out were not stretched or bent out of shape like the ones you see in other reviews. They're actually in great shape. I'm glad I did the Tyrol kit and do not regret it, and I definitely feel a difference when I went into some aggressive turns.
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I have a 2013 Avalon hybrid that is almost 1 yr old.
I have recently notice a single "pop" noise that seems to be coming from the rear when I turn right with a sharp turn.
I have looked in the trunk and under the vehicle but I cannot find where it is coming from.
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I have a 2002 Subaru legacy wagon, 185k miles, 5 speed manual, thumping noise when making sharp turns at slow speed, happens only after I drive over about 10 miles, does not happen after the car sits for any length of time.
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For the last few weeks, when I make a turn (particularly a sharp turn in either direction) I get a "clunking" noise that sounds like it is coming from the front end somewhere. I can also feel it - almost like a gear slipping and engaging again. I am not in 4WD mode when this is happening. It NEVER happens unless I am turning a corner. If I drive straight, it's fine. 1999 Explorer XLT (4 door, 4wd model)....
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2004 Jeep Wrangler Sport 5-speed Bought used 2yrs ago. 76,000 miles Only seems to happen after driving for more than an hour. When I either back into my driveway or turn sharp into a parking sport, mostly to right, I get a bumping sound, like something rubbing. My mechanic has replaced the sway bar links, front rotors, axle yoke, had a front differential leak so seal was replaced, and am still getting the sound. Tires Bf Goodrich All Terrain Do not do off road.
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My wife informed me about a noise coming from the chassis of her truck.
2007 Explorer XLT 4x4, 4.0 OHV, AT, 89,000 miles on the odometer.
We took the truck to dinner last night so I could investigate the problem. This occurs while only making left hand turns at slow speed.
There is a definite clunk sound AND feel. It actually sounds and feels like we are driving over a loose manhole cover, and IT DOES feel like metal to metal contact on the driverʻs sids of the truck.
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The last couple days my truck (1997 f150 4.6l) has been having starting issues. At first it would just turn over and not start then the battery would die. So i bought a new battery and yesterday now its starts sometimes but when trying to start it while its ttuning over it stops then starts turning and starts up. Then i drive wherever I am going when i get back in to start there's nothing.
Its not turning over at all but when i turn the key there is a loud single knocking noise coming from behind the dash near the passenger floor vent. Actually there ate two noise from the same area, one when i initially trun the key and another when i release the key. But after just sitting there doing this it will finally turn over and start. What this is, there are no codes being thrown besides my dreaded P0401 which i cant seem to get rid of either. Ive changed every part that has to do with the egr system and cleaned the throttle body replaced vacuum lines and still the code.
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Ford F150 truck, when starting, the starter will turn over strongly for half a second then just abruptly makes a loud noise and stops. It won't ever fully crank. Is this just a bad starter?
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I have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
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My 2015 is making a strange noise most noticeable when making a slight right turn up a driveway. It sounds like a spring popping.
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Every time we make a sharp right or left turn the engine on my van stalls. It has to be completely restarted. In the last year we replaced the trans and steering column and had a major tune-up. So far, no one has been able to diagnose the problem.
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I have an 02 f150 ext cab fx4 with just under 140,000 miles my first problem was when I shift from reverse to drive I have a loud clunk/bang I was trying to find out what was wrong so my brother in law was looking out the drive shaft he pushed it into the rear end now when I am over 65mph and take my foot off the gas I have a vibration but only when I take my foot off the gas and above 60-65mph the steering wheel or peddles don't vibrate but the floor does .
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I have owned a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4L for the past two years, and she has served me well. However, I have been having issues lately. She has hit 179,400-ish miles and with age things have started to fail. I want to know how much it will cost to fix these things and if I can do it myself.
There is a metallic popping noise coming from the right front side of the vehicle every time I make a turn (I haven't particularly noticed if it's a left- or right-hand turn when it happens.) I have been advised by my father that it's probably a CV (constant velocity) joint. Is that what's causing the noise?
My right front headlight has gone out, and I've replaced the bulb as well as the fuse, but it's still out. Could it be faulty wiring? The left front blinker has stopped blinking, I hope that's as simple as changing out the bulb.
The shift is automatic, but in the mornings (I've noticed it's mostly when it's cold outside) I attempt to move the shifter out of park and it won't budge for several minutes. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off, and then turn it back on for the shifter to move.
One last question- how often should I change and/or flush my transmission fluid and the filter, and can I do that myself or should I take it to the dealership? (Which I am reluctant to do.)
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So I got my Haldex fluid and DSG fluid changed two weeks ago. When I picked the car up I noticed a vibration when I was making tight turns. Last week I called the dealer and told them. They said to drive it a bit more to see if it works it self out. But now after getting back from H2Oi, it still is doing it but not as bad.
Its a vibration you can feel and a rumble you can hear when making a tight turn at slow speed. Like turning into a parking space or turning at a stop sign. What would this be? I searched but couldn't find an exact answer.
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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When turning right, it seems as if my brakes don't want to work. There is somewhat of a grinding sound and what I can only describe as a "shutter" from the pedal. They work great going straight or turning left. I should also mention that the steering locks up when turning sharply, haven't noticed if it's only when turning a certain way. This happens mostly when backing up. Also, the ABS light is on occasionally. I drive a '96 GMC Suburban.
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A few months ago I had the passenger side Control Arm replaced. Over a year ago I had them both replaced with after market parts. I went into the dealer and was told the reason the parts failed so soon was because the parts were aftermarket parts and that I should have them replaced with original Toyota part. When the passenger side failed again, I had the dealer replace it with an original Toyota part.
Here's the problem: after they replaced the one side with an Toyota part I took my car and immediately when making a sharp turn to the right the vehicle making a jerking motion. It was unnerving the first time. It felt as if the vehicle might turn over. I noticed that this only happen or mostly happen when making a turn to the right.
Also, as I'm accelerating the vehicle will pull to the right the abruptly jerk to the left. What I was told by the dealer is that scene replaced the one side with a Original Part and the other side was an aftermarket part, the two not being of the same quality were what I felt he was saying that the parts were slightly different in size and would cause this problem.
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My friend has a 2000 f-150 2x2 and was following him and he said he heard something pop and then no transmission , haven't put a code reader on it yet. It's not the flex plate starer works fine fluid is a little discolored and has no bad burned smell to it.
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