I have another issue. I just started having problems when braking. Every time I brake there is thing loud grinding noise that sounds like it coming from the back tires but there isn't a squeaking noise like there is where you need new brakes what else could this be??
View 2 RepliesWhy does my truck seem to have mostly back brakes? When I slam up the back tires almost always chirp then the abs kicks in I haven't put a set of front brakes on it since I have had it and I've had it for 4 years....
View 1 Replies1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
I just picked up my new Tiguan Wolfsburg yesterday. Beautiful! Drives wonderfully! But an odd thing, I noticed that as I brake, there is this thud, thud, thud noise around the back tires; almost like something is hitting the tire because the thud interval slows as the car slows. Then, when I got out after a 10 mile drive home, I noticed the heavy scent of burning rubber. Does this sound at all like a new car settling in, or possible issues already?
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
The last couple days my truck (1997 f150 4.6l) has been having starting issues. At first it would just turn over and not start then the battery would die. So i bought a new battery and yesterday now its starts sometimes but when trying to start it while its ttuning over it stops then starts turning and starts up. Then i drive wherever I am going when i get back in to start there's nothing.
Its not turning over at all but when i turn the key there is a loud single knocking noise coming from behind the dash near the passenger floor vent. Actually there ate two noise from the same area, one when i initially trun the key and another when i release the key. But after just sitting there doing this it will finally turn over and start. What this is, there are no codes being thrown besides my dreaded P0401 which i cant seem to get rid of either. Ive changed every part that has to do with the egr system and cleaned the throttle body replaced vacuum lines and still the code.
1999 f150 4x4 reg cab V6 standard, 4x4 shifter on the floor, pull it into high light comes on, front diff actuator goes in, put in 1st only back tires spin, put in reverse front and back spin (I was on a patch of icy road) I can hear a slight clicking noise maybe when in forward gear but its very quiet so could be normal? When I am underneath everything seems to be working and engaged.
View 1 RepliesI bought a new 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe this past August and this is my first car.
My first concern was that Hyundai advertises 27mpg in city and around 37(?) for highway. I acknowledge the fact that Hyundai recently had to lower their mpg estimates for some of their cars and provide reimbursements but however, these reimbursements are for 1-2mpg difference. My car after more than 6 months is still only getting about 14-15 miles on a casual drive in the city and only about 19-20mpg combined and about 24-25 on the highway! I am only getting about half the estimate for in city! I do not drive aggressively. In fact I am a pretty safe driver since I am a new driver and cautious about everything. I am also using premium gas on my car. I called the dealership I got the car from and they were trying to tell me about the reimbursement program which I already knew of... The reimbursement based of the 1-2 mileage difference is not what I want. I want to fix it and get close to the estimated mileage as I can. What is the best way to go about doing this?
The other issue is that sometimes when I hard brake, my car makes a loud grinding noise. My dealership's service center said they could take a look at this. I was mainly wondering if there is anything I should be concerned about for this?
I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
View 2 RepliesI am having a major issue with my truck. I replaced all of my brakes about 8 months ago. Replaced everything. Rotors, calipers, pads etc. About 3 weeks ago I pushed on the brakes and they locked up and I heard a loud pop and then grinding. I pulled my wheel and my brake on the right rear had broke the 2 mounting bolts and fell off. So I put the brake back on thinking I hadn't tightened the bolts.
Drove about 7 miles and around the 10th time I stepped on my brakes it did the same thing. So I replaced the brakes again. Calipers caliper mount and pads. I have been driving it 2 weeks and all of a sudden same thing happened. I push on the brakes the right rear locked up and snapped the bolts again. So now I replaced everything rotor calipers etc. Greased everything up and no problems for a day. Do I need to replace the brake mount and where do I get that?
So whenever I brake while reversing (and rarely while moving forwards) I hear this odd grinding noise coming from the front left wheel and can feel it through the brake. Im not a petrol head but I decided to replace a wheel bearing hub myself recently to save money. I am pretty sure I reconnected the anti lock brakes correctly though I doubt it's that. My brakes are good.
View 4 RepliesThe noise is somewhere between a tin rattle and a bearing grinding heard most when braking but constant under say 10 mph. We have not been able to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from but I believe it is front drivers side.(but really could be anywhere) it is not dependent on rpm, nor gear or clutch engagement, Nor hubs engaged or disengaged.
The drives side front hub, rear hubs' bearings(races and seals) have been replaced. I have the passenger side front hub to do as well, just haven't gotten to it yet and it doesn't seem bad. we are all stumped on what it is. It seems to relate to the rotating assembly though as it seems to change with speed. it almost seems like tire rub, but there is no scaring or marks of any sort anywhere for it.
Vehicle is a e99 f250 short bed ext cab. open diff if it makes any difference. My next thought after the hub is pinion bearing? Could it be something to do with abs? say the truck is 4 wheel abs but the fronts are disconnected (trying to figure out if it is 4wabs as it appears to have connectors, but the original hubs did not have the hole for the sensors. no abs light comes on, but that could be a bad bulb too)
What we have found is hubs locked or unlocked, 4wd engaged or disengaged, and happens at right around 16 mph, braking, accelerating, clutch in or out, in gear or in neutral. All 4 corners have new bearings. We have found 2 things, 1 is the track bar bushings are shot (don't think this is the source of the noise but could be wrong and i will be replacing those..once I have money in again.. 2 the passenger side leaf spring when wacked with your hand makes a different sound than the drivers side.( could be a matter of different loads, but figured worth noting)
There are 2 noises, the first is the noise we hear, the second is one that i found when doing the noise reduction (loud meaty tires you cant hear the noise in the audio without reduction) I think that that was one of the hubs, or maybe the brakes, I am unsure, but it happens at different locations in the video.
Audio : [URL] ....
So I have every so often been hearing a grinding noise coming from what I believe is my back brakes (only does it when I brake). It isn't every time I brake but it does seem to happen almost every time I back up out of my spot initially and touch the brakes. It happens almost everytime I brake when driving at a reasonable speed. Tiggy has like 53,000 on it.
I have looked online and I just don't have the tools or access to a garage to do them myself so I think I am going to have to bring it in. Any rough estimate of what it is going to cost me? Also, I just bought this used on 7/5/14, I was under the impression in California that they can't sell a car with having brakes that are this worn.
Whenever I start my car, there is about 20 seconds of loud grinding coming from the glove box. It's sort of a tak-tak-tak-grrr-tak-tak-tak-grrr over and over. I've opened the glove box and noticed that with each start, the Navi box spits out the DVD, makes an awful grinding noise, then self-reinserts the navi DVD. I'm guessing this isn't normal, as it jars the normally whisper-smooth operation of my Phaeton. Is there an easy fix, or is this something to take the car into the dealer for? It would my first time taking it in for anything.
View 5 RepliesI have a Honda CRV 2008 with 75,000 miles on it. There is this grinding/rubbing noise coming from the right back side of the car. I hear it when I accelerate and it goes away when I slow down. What could it be?
View 11 Replies2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
Last week while my wife was pulling out the cart . I heard a grinding noise coming from the back wheels. i figured it was time for new brakes, I changed the front last year so rears were pending.
I changed rotors and pads, they were like 20 per left. also looked like the e brake was touching the rotors. I adjusted that a little.
So the noise is still there and its worse. I have no clue what could be making the noise. brake dust shield maybe.. shocks .. Its worse when i turn right...
I have done brakes on every car i have owned and it was pretty easy for lx. What could be causing the noise.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe v6. I've had problems with the air conditioning in that it blows hot. Paid around 900 bucks to have a new compressor installed because the mechanic said that would fix it but it didn't. That was about 8 months ago. Still blowing strong but no cold air. About two weeks ago I took the car to a different mechanic who told me it needs a new compressor which would be 900 bucks. I declined that but had the guy do a little work on the breaks. He put new rotors and pads on the front brakes two weeks ago. Now within the past couple days when I start the car up it makes an extremely loud nasty grinding type of sound for a couple seconds then stops. Oil is fine and new. It happened this morning long enough for me to look under the hood and see the fans looked like they were fine, and the loud grinding noise seems to be coming from behind the glove box. It hasn't broke down on me yet, it's just really obnoxious and embarrassing with all the noise every morning.
View 8 RepliesI just got the car back from repairs, there was a loud grinding noise coming from the left side of the engine. It turned out the whole rack and pinion setup was pouring out fluids and needed to be completely replaced also while it was in there they checked out an oil leak which ended up being the front valve cover and replaced a dead O2 sensor. The car has 99,300 miles
View 6 RepliesThis morning when I pulled into the garage after taking my daughter to school and shut the car off, I noticed a very loud hissing noise coming from the back end of my car, underneath somewhere. When I came back out an hour later to leave for work, it was still hissing. I drove to work and all was fine, but when I went out to the lot after work my car was completely dead.
I tried jumping it, but it wouldn't even take a charge. I had to find a ride home and will get it towed tomorrow. I'm sure the hissing noise is the cause, but what's going on. My car has never given me any problems--it's run perfectly for almost 150,000 miles (5 speed manual transmission). Maybe this is the end?
Having problem with my car (2001 Elantra GT) - over the last month or so it's been occasionally making a very loud (not but consistent) grinding noise coming from the front of the car when decelerating at low speeds. The noise sounds like gears slipping over each other but cuts in and out. It's pretty loud and not a nice noise to hear! Sometimes it makes the noise when I brake firmy but not until I reach lower speeds... mostly it's just when coming to a stop, but it did it once last week when I was pulling very slowly out of a parking spot and not even braking.
As it's become more frequent (going form maybe once a week to several times every car journey) I have started to feel something in the brake pedal also, like there's something kicking it from behind. I took it to a mechanic and had to pay a ton of money to get a broken front left ABS ring replaced (it also had the front right ring replaced in May), and within 2 minutes of driving away from the place the noise was back. Before I spend even more money that I don't have on taking it back for extra diagnosis.
I'm told that this is almost certainly the ABS system that has a fault even though the ABS light never shows except when I start the car, and I've taken the fuses out of the ABS in order to confirm that it is. I haven't heard the noise after a few days of driving with ABS unplugged so I think we can be reasonably sure here. Is there anything that I can check myself or test (I'm not very handy when it comes to cars) or can you tell from this information what it's likely to be? Other things that I've noticed with the car which may or may not be relevant are:
- the warning lights for brakes, ABS and TCS are all lit with the fuses for ABS1 and ABS2 taken out. I take it this is normal for all 3 to illuminate with the fuses out?
- since unplugging the ABS I've noticed a slight metallic squeal from the brakes as if the brakes are worn down. Didn't notice this before I unplugged ABS though it may have been there, not sure.
- sometimes when going over a speed bump or just a minor imperfection in the road I hear a clunk in the front of the car and feel something move in the underside of the car. Happens mostly at lower speeds also, but not if I go over the bump really slowly.
- in the fuse box when I took out the ABS fuses I noticed there was a bit of minor melting/brown burn marks on the top of the connections marked (iirc) ECO3 and ECO4 on the diagram (large white connectors). Is this anything to be concerned about?
- sometimes when I have air coming into the car through the air vents it will become significantly warmer for a few minutes, then slowly go back to normal. Can't think of any circumstance that links the times when this happens (eg. speed, weather etc).
- the oil pan has a leak which is on the list of things to fix when the car works properly.