Yesterday had my truck 1999 ford f150 v8 4x4 it was just sitting there idling fine then it all of sudden sounded like it was about to stall then began idling fine again. It has some hesitation on take off and when going about 40 mph
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 F150XL 4x4 a few days ago i was driving and i started to lose power i had to take it out of overdrive just to maintain 60mph by the end of the day it took a good 45 seconds to a full minute to get up to 10 mph. I have been told it is the catalytic converter, anything that would cause this it has a lope when stopped at a light but is fine when in park it acts like its flooding when I take off from a stop but the faster I go after taking off the flooding feel goes away and just seems like a lack of power. That morning i put on a EGR vacuum solenoid and an o2 sensor...
View 14 RepliesOk so I have a 2001 f150 4.6l 4x4 I purchase it recently and have been having some issues it has a huge power loss on take off and even while driving I have changed plugs coils tested almost every sensor and am at a loss at this point. No check engine light on or codes...
View 8 RepliesIve got a 2001 f-150, 5.4L, 121k miles. I've replaced the fuel filter, removed and cleaned all injectors, cleaned MAF, changed 2 faulty coil packs, and installed all new plugs.
No codes thrown, truck runs smooth. Problem is intermittent. It will act as though it's got no power, usually won't happen till it's warm. I can drive it for 2 hours, runs strong. Sometimes when I pull onto a highway and get on the throttle a bit, it starts to hesitate, rpm's go to about 3k and it hesitates, but does not miss. acts like trans is slipping but I'm positive it's not.
So when it starts to do this, it's constant. I can continue to drive and it's runs terrible, does ok if you barely use any throttle. But.... I can be driving 40-50mph while it's having this problem, toss it in neutral, turn it off and restart, and all the power is back, great acceleration, as if nothing ever happened.
My 99 F150 4x4, 5.4 triton all of a sudden got very loud and has a loss of power. To me, it sounds like a cylinder is straight open to the atmosphere. I at first thought a spark plug blew out or an injector somehow came dislodged but I checked and everything seems ok. It's coming from the passenger side somewhere but is so loud under the hood I can't tell exactly where.
I took the valve cover off to see if a valve is stuck open or something, but I don't really know what I'm looking at as far as internal engine goes. I turned the crank by hand with a ratchet and the valves seem to follow the cams, but I've never inspected valves before so don't really know what to look for. What could be causing this loss of power and incredibly loud noise?
Replaced the spark plugs and wires a couple months ago. Started skipping yesterday throwing the #4 misfire code so I replaced the coil pack, reset the check engine light but it's since came back on and has a rough idle and loss of power. By the way, it's a 97 F150 4.6L 4x4 with 200,000 miles.
View 4 Replies1997 F150 4X4 4.6 engine with 285,000 miles
Truck was running perfect down the road, then suddenly it lost power and started missing at all RPM ranges. So i keep driving another 6 miles and then POOF the miss is gone and truck runs perfect. Couple hours later i hop back in it and its running good and then suddenly it starts missing and loosing power again except this time it never started running good again. Never did throw a CEL.
I hooked up my SCT Tuner (for my F250) to check for codes and came up with P0171 which indicated one of the banks was running lean, but no missfire codes. Did a search on here and learned the common problems(vacum leak) of that code.
Found the vacum leak at the PVC elbow, so i replaced both ends of the plastic tube.
Pulled the throttle body elbow and cleaned out the clogged up EGR ports.
Put a new air filter in and took the MAF out and cleaned it with MAF cleaner.
Put it back together and it idled way better but still ran like crap with the bad miss/sputter. Ran it down the road a few miles and came back thinking of the catalytic converter, i crawled underneath and it was glowing red. It does run and feel like the converter is stopped up but if i have a dead miss and dumping fuel wouldnt that make it glow red to or no? Still no CEL and now no codes.
Also i held the engine at about 1000 rpms where i could here the miss good and unplugged the fuel injectors one at a time to see if that made a difference. Each one i unplugged made it miss worse, so wouldnt that tell me that all 8 cylinders are firing?
And i changed the spark plugs (motorcraft) 250 miles ago.
So it still cranks and runs smooth after a cold soak overnight and then after a mile of driving or less it starts the dead miss/sputter and loss of power.
The car has felt like it looses power a little while idling but never has completely. we have had the oil light on for a week but hadn't checked it yet. then it lost power twice while driving so we pulled over and white smoke was coming out of the oil. we added a quart of oil but it would not start... the dip stick was still low, looked dark but not sludge. it might have been leaking the oil we poured in but that could be from the power steering leak we had. started it a few days later. the engine sounded like it was shaking real loud back and forth. What's wrong or should we drive it like that 15 minutes to the mechanic?
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
My 1997 ford f150 4.6 triton runs hot after 1 minute of idling. I changed the two coolant sensors, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. I also went to have a diagnostic done at two different places and nether one could get a reading....
View 14 RepliesMy 1997 f150 5.4 has started an idle issue. The truck when started will idle around1200 rpm and not settle down After driving a bit it will drop down around 800 and idle rough and sounds like it has a plug fouled. As soon as you give it gas it clears up and sounds fine, then drops down an idles rough.
Checked for vacuum leaks but don't see any. pulled the MAP sensor and cleaned it, but did not change.
I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
View 7 RepliesHaving problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
I've been experiencing power loss at random times while driving, idling, With almost always flickering headlights on my mkiv 1.8t gti. Also on what always seems like the exact same spot on the freeway I'm losing all power to the wheels and it feels as if my plugs aren't firing for about 10 seconds Which causes me to bog down. At which point I down shift and play the throttle until my motor then begins running normally again.
I've semi recently replaced my battery and terminals, due to corroded terminals and worn out battery. Is is possible a ecu reset could solve this problem?
Also when the power surges during driving my traction control and hand-brake lights on the tachometer will flash and the car will beep three or four times (same as when the hand-brake on beep).
My 2004 F-150 Heritage with the 4.6 was running great until yesterday. Went in the store and left it idling, when I came back out it had died. First time it has ever done this. I started it and it started right up but misses bad. Checked it out and found all 4 cylinders on the drivers side are dead. The check engine light is on and the overdrive off light on the shifter is on. It will start right up and everything else is fine, oil pressure, coolant, etc.
View 9 RepliesMy 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
View 13 RepliesI've owned the truck for 8 months, did a fair bit of maintenance in the first two months (plugs, tranny fluid change, maf cleaned, o2s replaced), 320,000km runs very well, no codes.
When the truck is in gear and I put my foot on the brake after a second or so idling, the engine shakes. Releasing the brake, the shake stops, but it does it every time. Also, the belt or one of the pulleys will squeak a bit at the same time, but only idling with the brake on.
It doesn't seem like it is a serious problem, but what and why? My instincts are telling me it may be transmission related.
I've lost traction going around corners. My daily route takes me down a dirt/gravel road that has a couple of tight curves. It seems that last week my 6 month old, just rotated BFG All Terrain's could run these curves with no problem. Now I'm drifting like the Duke boys running from the law. Even making a right turn on dry pavement gets some squak from the tires.
Truck is a 2002 F150 fx4 with 3.50 LS rear diff with about 185000 miles.
So I have two theories. First is the shocks. Standard Rancho that came with the truck. I don't think they've ever been replaced. My bigger concern is the rear diff. I've had a shudder when I take off at corners that indicates it needs a fluid change or friction mod. added. I did the latter a couple of weeks ago. Didn't really work.
I'm wondering, can the clutch pack in the rear diff go out or go bad? If so, what happens? Does it default to an open diff or spool the axles? Or will it just grenade the whole rear end? The loss of traction is my symptom right now. Possibly some wheel hop on braking today, but I couldn't tell if that was just the road.
I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
View 3 RepliesI am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....