Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Loosing Coolant Into Cylinder 1
May 17, 2012
Ok 210k truck runs great except I am loosing coolant into #1 cyl. Ive owned the truck since 120k and it has NEVER ran hot not even above normal. I guess due to expansion it will even fill up the cyl nearly hydro locking it, no oil in water/radiator and no water residue in the oil either. I had the intake gaskets replaced thinking it may have been it but it came soon back. I really dont think its an head gasket, has there ever been reported problems with the intakes on these trucks? oh btw 97 2wd with 4.6. Even with coolant getting into the cyl it still runs great just a little white smoke.... I really don't want to replace the engine I think it has a lot of life still in it.
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I have a 2003 9.5 Saab with a 3.0 liter tdi. It has 160,000 km. The coolant light came on saying that the coolant was low, I took it to the Saab garage. They said that the ducts are compressing and that the water pressure increases in the engine and comes out of the radiator cap. According to them, it will eventually (within days or months) kill the engine. Saab does not make these engines anymore. I took the car also for an oil change which they say is not worth doing.
According to them, these engines have had problems like this (i.e. it is not a one off). We checked and do not see any coolant leaking from the reservoir cap but we see some coolant leaking on the garage floor. We check the oil and see no sign of coolant leaking into the oil and therefore do not think that it is a head gasket problem. We don't fully understand what the garage is telling us, is it a common problem ? How can we treat this ?
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I have a 1996 7.3 Power Stroke with 171,000 miles. I noticed I was burning oil the end of last year and changed the turbo as the seals were out of it and that slowed it down but did not resolve the issue, so i then moved to injector o'rings and replaced all of them, and after 1000 miles with the new orings and a new oil change i have still burnt 3 qrts.
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I LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
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Truck was throwing that collect temp different than oil temp light then started to heat. When I drove temp went down. When I stopped I checked coolant t as low and left orange rust dust around and under overflow I have topped off but can't find a leak. I clean it and it comes back I have a leak somewhere? Head gasket? But oil is fine I drive my truck 200 miles no issues?
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my car has tge 3.6 motor and has 2500 miles and seems to be loosing coolant...
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I started loosing a bunch of coolant on my tdi which is still under 36k and there is no visible leaks anywhere
Took the car to the dealer last night to get it checked out and they were ready to send me back home telling me there is no issue since they don't see any leaks under the car
Either way after telling them that I have already gone through 2 gallons of coolant they decided to top off the coolant and ask me to drive 200 miles.
I drove 156 miles last night since I need to get this issue resolved and now the coolant tank is empty again... sitting at the dealer while I'm typing this.
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I have a 2000 passat tdi, over the past months ive noticed that I have been loosing coolant through my coolant reservoir overflow, my car has been running perfectly, my mechanic told me that its likely to be a head gasket problem and he put ceramic sealer in the coolant system, which was a disaster, the coolant pressure became much worse and told he me I needed a new radiator, which he fitted, but there was no improvement, whilst my mechanic was working on the car he noticed that when my car was running if he removed the oil filler cap the engine breathed heavily, my mechanic told me that the engine would need replacing,so I should sell the car as soon as possible.
I found it difficult to believe my trusty VW was in such a bad state, as it has only done 87000s mile and has full service history and starts and runs like a dream. Today I went for a second opinion, they told me that the coolant problem was because of a defected water pump, with most likely the plastic impellers failing, and the engine breathing problem could be down to a blocked breather at the top of the engine.
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I have a 2000 honda civic ex that I recently bought used. It ran fine with no problems for a good month then the check engine light came on and it started overheating. I could smell burning oil and see smoke rising from the hood. I checked the coolant and it was all out. So I filled it back up. Drove about 20 miles and during the drive when sitting idle the car would shudder and jolt around for a second, after about 20 miles I could see the coolant that I just filled up was all gone. I could hear some bubbling sound, all of the coolant had burnt away and was steaming. I did some research and it could be a blown head gasket, but I'm not sure and was seeking how to fix it or to clarify if it was a head gasket.
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My mate has bought a mk4 golf and it is loosing coolant. There is no obvious signs of a water leak the car starts fine, goes up to temperature fine, only time the temperature rises is when the car has to work harder. (going up hill) then returns to normal.
Left the car today for a couple of hours and went to check the coolant level and the system was still under pressure when opening the expansion bottle top. There is signs of rusty water around the cars panels where the expansion tank is located. Previous owner said that it used 4 litres of water on a 330 mile round trip. previous owner said it could be the head gasket but there is no cream on oil filler cap.
There is no sign of water leaking from the heater matrix inside the car.
"2000" y reg mk4 golf 115bhp 1.9 gt tdi all standard
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I have a 1996 BMW 328is and recently it overheated on the way to work which is about 20 miles i pulled over let it cool down and now when i drive the car after about 5 minutes it starts overheating and is loosing coolant but i am pretty sure its burning out the exhaust now the person i had bought it from had replaced the head and head gasket no more than 8000 miles ago with thermostat and housing and water pump and radiator so now i get no heat in the car both upper and lower radiator hoses rock solid and burning the antifreeze.
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Trucks throwing codes for cylinder 3 and 8 misfire. I pulled the plugs and both were covered in oil and cylinder 8s electrode was literally gone. so I replaced the plugs and within 5 miles it was missing again. so I replaced all plugs, all wires and coil packs. cylinder 8 plug had fouled out. Its a 4.6l 99. I have a mild exhaust leak where the manifold connects to the downpipe. but not bad enough I feel it should matter. it runs rough until about 3k rpm and then it kinda straightens out.
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I have changed the COP and the injector as well as the spark plug. I am still having a misfire on #7 cylinder....
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Which cylinder is #3 on 2003 150 4.6. ...
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1999 f250 ld, 5.4.
Started running rough, checked codes. Initially got po300, po304. Reset, and when I checked again, had po171.
Checked the PCV lines, and found a split right near the throttle body. Of course. broke the plastic tube trying to pull it off. Replaced the short piece of hose with a longer piece to make up for the broken plastic tube.
Now, po171 is gone, but the others remain.
Cylinder # 4 looks impossible to get to. I would like to swap COPs to see if the code moves.
A. does this make sense?
B. how the hell to I get back there?
At a minimum, it looks like I have to disconnect a bunch of hoses, and maybe even remove the fuel rail.
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whats the best way to clean a 97 f150 5.4 cyl head
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My truck has developed a misfire on cylinders 1 and 5. The OBD2 scanner at autozone says code P0300, Po301 and P0305. I bought a new set of plugs and wires. Problem still there. I then replaced the both coils. Problem is still there. Is there a control module or something that could kill those 2 cylinders like on the older trucks with distributors?
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Got myself into a tight situation with a truck I recently purchased and seeing if any of you have experienced the same thing or know what may be going on. I bought a 1998 F-150 with 213,000 miles and a 4.2 engine. When I test drove the truck it had a small chugging vibration, for lack of a better term, but the check engine light was not on and it seemed to run great while driving. No problem at highway speeds nor below.
On my way home the check engine light turned on which turned into a blinking check engine light and I knew I had been taken by a person with a diagnostic computer who cleared the codes. He made a comment about it turning on before but his "buddy" fixed the issue but I took his word because he seemed like a decent person.
I took it to a local shop and, if I remember correctly, error code 302 came up for misfire on cylinder #2. He changed the plugs and wires and it seemed to run a lot better. About 5 miles later on my way home the check engine light turned back on, but it still seemed to run smoothly by the time I got home.
The next day I took it back to him and this time we got the same error code plus (again going of my poor memory) error 174 which he said was cylinder #2 running lean. Earlier today he called and said he checked over everything and couldn't figure out anything wrong until he checked the compression. He said the other 5 cylinders were around 130 psi and cylinder #2 was at 75 psi.
Now this mechanic runs more of a brake and exhaust shop so his next statements are why I'm coming to all of you for your opinions.
He said the cylinder was shot and everything inside was shot including the piston, rings, and everything else associated with #2. (I don't think he got in there to really check it out) After scouring the forums I hear more people talk about the valves may not be sealing correctly and what sound to me, to be smaller issues than the entire #2 cylinder being toast.
I'm not sure if I am going to go after the person who sold it to me or not yet but I would like to see what others may think is going on before I light this guy up. I plan on taking it to a more proficient mechanic to do the work, if deemed worthy of work, but would like to kmow where I stand.
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I have a '98 F150 with 4.6L Triton with low compression in cyl # 4 @ approx. 30#; all other cyl are at 140# or so. Would it be a burnt valve, bent valve, cam? Any harm if I drive it like that? I have not have it on the road yet.
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I have 97 150 it has a misfire on cylinder 4 and 6. I put new coil packs on and new plug wires. Spark plugs are only a year old. what else it could be?
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I recently took a 4.6 from a 98 e-150 van and put in a 1997 f 150. put new oil pump, bearings, and rings. Got everything hooked up and ready to roll. turn over but no spark to any cyl. What it might be?
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