Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Loose Shocks Causing Front Pop When Accelerate?
Apr 6, 2015
I have a 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 with a 6" suspension lift. Recently Ive had some front end noise, so after swapping out a lower ball joint and the sway bar links, i still have the pop. It only happens when at a stop or slowly moving and i turn to the right and accelerate. It sounds like its coming from the front drivers side. I have wiggled everything in the front end and everything is very tight. The only loose things i can find are:
1) Bottoms of shocks can be wiggled back and forth, both sides do this.
2) driveshaft leading to the front end has a lot of play, but I don't believe that's relevant since its not used when I am in 2wd.
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
After/during the rain, every other time my truck loses considerable power to accelerate. It's not consistent but happens increasingly often. As I accelerate up to ~ 50km/h (also when I reverse), my engine will shake the entire truck. Past 50 it "appears" to go away. Typically this will last up to 10 mins and will disappear and run fine again. The last time it happened the check engine light came on and went away the next day. After reading online, I've heard about the "COP" connection??
2003 Ford F-150, 4.6L Triton V8 XL, 2WD
View 4 Replies
I am looking in replacing the front shocks on my 03 excursion. It is 2w drive with the 5.4 engine. What recommendations for a smoother ride?
View 1 Replies
What is the degree of difficulty in replacing the rear shocks on a 2WD 2002 F150?
View 14 Replies
I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab Long Bed that still has the original shocks which are in need of replacing. What shocks I should get that would provide a soft ride?
View 14 Replies
The problem is my new-to-me 97 Ford F150 5.4L SOHC engine, auto transmission, is overheating after driving it for a short while. Seems to be fine at idle. I have read previous posts with the exact same issue, but the consistency seems to be all over the map from burping the system, head gasket, thermostat, and possibly a plugged radiator.
Backstory:200,000+ miles.
Truck sat for 6 months after previous owner broke the shift cable.
Truck was in a front end collision. Frame looks bent underneath the engine.
Previous owner had overheating problem. He said he changed the heater core. Looks like brand new coolant in the system so story probably checks out. Desperately needs an oil change. Very black oil.
Previous owner thought the system needed a burping. So I'm largely assuming the problem started after the heater core change, or he misdiagnosed an overheating problem and thought the heater core could cause it. I have found a radiator cap and thermostat in the truck which seems to indicate he tried many things to fix the overheating and was unsuccessful. Engine looks pretty clean for the miles.
Symptoms/Backyard Tests :
Blows cold air with heat on highest level and on defrost.
Blender door fuse intact.
Doesn't overheat at idle.
Ran the truck for 15 mins with the coolant bottle fill cap off on level ground to try to burp it after draining some coolant and checking the thermostat orientation. Coolant level increased in the bottle. Large air bubbles came out. (Another session before this one, I ran it for 30 minutes with no coolant cap, and eventually coolant overflowed the fill bottle. Normal or no?)
Seems to overheat after the thermostat opens. After doing the 15 minute warm up/burp, I took it for a test drive. I drove it about 20 blocks with the temperature gauge on the dash reading the same as the warmed-up idle temperature. Got to the 20th block and the gauge immediately spiked to overheat with the oil pressure dash light coming on. I could be mistaken as the oil pressure light almost looks exactly like the overheat dash light. But I'm pretty sure the temperature icon was on the right side of the oil can icon and not the left.
After the above drive: Upper rad hose too hot to touch.
After the above drive: Lower rad hose medium warm. Could hold on to it if I felt like it.
After the above drive: Upper part of rad pretty hot. Not Insta-burn but hot. Tempature decreases to warm to cool as you go lower down the rad.
After the above drive: Both heater core hoses going to the cab luke warm.
Coolant looks brand new.
Radiator looks slightly bowed. Probably from the accident? Otherwise looks clean and minimal bent fins.
Drained some coolant and pulled the upper rad hose to see if the thermostat was upside down. Looks installed correctly.
No signs of weep hole leaks from the water pump.
Fan seems solid. Has maybe 1-2mm of play in the bearings.
Something that looked like steam from the muffler at startup, that disappeared after getting closer to a normal range warm engine.
I have driven crap cars for many years and I've never seen a plugged radiator which makes me skeptical of it being that. All the radiators I have changed were because they were eventually leaking from cracks in the radiator.
I would also be interested in doing an informal poll if you have read this far and have had this era of F150 that overheated. Have you ever repaired the head gasket? And/or have you ever changed the radiator?
View 9 Replies
My issue started as simply a lack of air conditioning. Upon initial inspection I noticed that the compressor clutch is not engaging when I turn the ac on. So I figured the next step would be to see if I am getting voltage to the clutch. My Chilton book says to test this with the truck on, so I disconnected the harness from the compressor, attached my meter to the cable, and attempted to start my truck. I've found that the truck wont start with this cable disconnected. It will turn over but just never starts. Also the fuel pump comes on as it should.
I've repeated this several times. It always starts with no problem when the compressor clutch is connected. I understand that there is some monitoring circuit with the pcm so maybe that has something to do with it but I'm pretty fuzzy on how that works. Upon further inspection, it looks like I should be able to test my ac signal with the engine off, so maybe that's not such a big deal, but this whole truck not starting business is blowing my mind.
View 1 Replies
Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
View 9 Replies
My dad has a 97 Dodge Neon 4 cylinder. The car has been leaking oil, and on Sat the leak grew and was real bad. He took it to the only shop he could find open who put it up on the lift and said the leak was coming from the front of the engine. On monday they did the work ($286) and told my dad it was a seal on the front of the engine behind the flywheel. My dad is old and doesn't hear well and the mechanics english was not real strong and his writing on the recepit is not real clear. As I am worried my dad might have gotten taken, is there a replaceable seal on the front of the engine that could go and cause a leak? They showed my dad the leak as the car was on the lift and running as that was only when the leak occured. I am concerned my dad was taken. He says he drove it around and such and didn't see any leaking when he picked it up and left it running in his drivway for a while upon getting home and no leak. Just wondering?
View 11 Replies
I currently own a 2007 Camry LE 4cycl, and so far its been running great with about 115000kms. First off, I was rotating my tires and notices that the outer cover on the shocks (all 4) is loose...is this normal or is it a sign that they need changing (I have never changed anything related to suspension, so i wouldn't know)?
This is what I am referring to: [URL] .....
The second issue is more difficult to pinpoint. When i am stopped at a stop sign or light, and i accelerate I hear kind of a pinging noise, if i rev the engine in neutral i don't hear the noise. I had the dealer check it and they said it could be the flex pipe, which i had changed but the noise is still there. What it could be? The pinging noise is like a metallic noise, i.e., like pins inside a metal container.
View 4 Replies
Okay, so I am not really sure where to post this. I have one of the weird 1999 F-250s that aren't a SD. The shifter is pretty loose, about 4-5 inches of play while in gear. Shifting isn't a problem, just the play in the shifter that I worry about. I have been trying to find rebuild kits, but can only find stuff for Rangers/Mazdas.
View 7 Replies
98 f150 4x4 5.4... So i purchased this truck about 3 months ago and now I am having problems putting it in Park. The column shifter is very loose and sloppy. Is there any way to rebuild this?
View 3 Replies
When doing my last spark plug change I noticed that the electrical plugs to the fuel injectors seemed really loose. The plastic tabs on the harness plugs don't even lock onto the injector plug. Its actually amazing that they don't vibrate loose or stay electrically connected. The plugs are not cracked or damaged that I can see. Is this a problem? I feel that I should replace the plugs with something that has more of a positive "grip" to the FI plug....
View 2 Replies
The cruise switch on my brake master cylinder is bad and causing the cruise to not work. I have it bypassed with a jumper wire and it works fine. is there any reason not to do this?
View 11 Replies
Ive been having problems with my o2 sensor behind the left cat coming loose and causing a horrible rattle. Ive tightened the hell out of it a few times and it lasted around 4k miles each. recently i tightened it again and it comes loose within like 20 miles. I was gonna put lock tight on it but with the wiring going into the sensor i cant back it all the way out. I just said screw it and put some JB weld metal putty on it to hold and it lasted like 2 days and now its rattling again. I guess next step is find out how to take apart the sensor so i can un thread and lock tight it....electrical stuff scares me though.
View 3 Replies
The belly pan on my AUDI A4 is loose and causing a clattering, rattling noise. I looked under the car and it looks like all of the screws are missing..... Can I fix this myself?
I saw that a lot of places online sell the screws but pricing was a bit confusing and I wanted to make sure it's something I can fix myself.
View 16 Replies
Geo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
View 7 Replies
I have a 97 ford f150 v6 2wheel drive. I was driving to work when l heard rattling in the engine like something came loose when I stopped to check my transmission fluid was pouring out drained out in 2mins tops. What do you think it could be?
View 6 Replies
My speedometer has not been working for months now and it really hasn't bothered me as I go by RPMs, but I am going to make a long trip in a few weeks and I wanted to try to get this fixed.
The speedometer flips over to 100 mph and rest on the opposite side as it should. When I accelerate it does not move until I get over about 35 mph where it will then flip to 86 mph. It will slowly move to 82 mph as I accelerate up until 75, where it will then no longer change. Every once in a while it will start working when I start the truck up, or when I am driving down the road. It has before, within a 30 minute time frame, started working and stopped working 6 times. Currently my ABS light is on, but it has been on long before this started occurring. Every other gauge on my dash works.
I drive a 5 speed manual V6 2003 Ford F150.
View 6 Replies
My 97 F150 4.6 4x4 threw a P0302 and P0401 the other day, I traced the miss fire to a loose injector plug. I reset the codes last weekend, I got in the truck and went to the Dump and to town to pick some stuff up. It threw the EGR code again, so this morning I did a little checking on the EGR I cranked the truck and disconnected the FPR vacuum line and hooked it to the EGR valve and the truck died down but didn't completely die.
Now the green line that went to the EGR valve felt like it had a slight bit of pressure coming from it. Is this normal? I did pull the white feed line from the EGR Regulator and it had good vacuum.
The regulator also makes a humming sound when you cut the truck off. Ill be pulling the alternator this weekend due to it going out last night, while I'm in there if Ive got to pull the throttle body id rather do it while I'm elbow deep in it. So does it sound more like a Clogged Throttle body or a Faulty sensor?
View 4 Replies
I have a 1998 f150 w/ the 4.6L V8
For months I have had a hesitation in this truck when i go to accelerate, and at times you can even feel a little buck with the cruise set at 70MPH. It has gotten worse and worse. When i start pulling a trailer good luck, it will do it but its terrible, hesitations and misfiring,
There is always a misfire/hesitation. Will Idle nice After its warmed up. Sat for 2 weeks fired it up and it had a HORRIBLE idle for at least 1-2 min. This is new now it wont idle when cold. Now I had one code Cylinder 4 misfire, cleared the code never came back 2-3k miles later still not back on -
replaced coil packs
New plugs
New wires
Fuel pressure test good
Checked the Heater hose - not leaking and nothing in the hole.
View 3 Replies
