Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Little Rough On Start Up / Slight Coolant Smell
Dec 17, 2012
OK, I have a 1997 F150 2wd 3 door with a 4.2, approximately 130000 miles on it. I am the 2nd owner and have only had it for a couple months.
I noticed it ran a little rough on start up but smoothed out after it warmed up so I wasn't too concerned. CEL was on but it ran fine. I got the truck from my FIL and he said that it just had new hoses put on and the CEL came on after that. I noticed a slight coolant smell and after a big leak by the water pump I discovered that the guy who fixed it didn't have any of the hose clamps as tight as they should have been.
The heat went from really good to non-existent the last few weeks, never had any over heating issues though. Last week I was driving it to work and the temp gage spiked the light came on. I stopped and checked the coolant and it seemed fine. After I sat for a minute or two I checked the temp and it came back to normal. I figured it was because I let some pressure out of the system. It got hot again when I got to work but didn't spike at all driving home. I figured the water pump or t-stat was bad.
I replaced those on Saturday. When I filled the coolant up it ran rough and smoked but stopped and ran fine. Temp was fine but heat was nada. Today same thing, smokes like a steam engine for a few minutes then runs fine. Coolant smell is noticeable. I had the codes scanned and got P0303, P0174, and P0171.
I am thinking intake gaskets, since it seems to be an issue with these engines. I am going to fix it before I get a hydro lock situation, so what would be the next thing to look at before deciding that they need changed? Do I need any Ford specific tools to do this job?
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2000 F-150 xlt off road with a 5.4. I have owned the truck since 2001. The truck has 170K miles on it and I change the oil between 3-4K miles. The last couple oil changes I have I have noticed I haven't been draining as much out as I usually do, this past oil change was about 3 quarts low. I thought it was very odd. The truck runs great and does not smoke or leak oil.
This morning I got in and noticed a tick or slight knock, thought maybe it needed warmed up. After a minute. I shut it off and checked the oil, to my surprise there was next to no in the engine! This has me very worried now. I haven't checked my coolant since last oil change so I'm not sure if that's where it's going. Where to start looking, I'm missing like 5 quarts of oil in 3300 miles. Again the truck run great and does not smoke at all. I was getting ready to change it this weekend, always run high millage 5w-30.
View 8 Replies
I have an 01 supercab. 5.4 Triton 135k. I have begun to smell coolant the last couple of days. Have seen nothing leaking and truck doesn't run hot.
Will investigate more this weekend. Where to start looking for this. It has to be leaking somewhere. Windows don't fog and the smell is there all the time. I live in florida so don't use much heat.
Not the heater core. Heat works fine and no smell from the vents.
View 12 Replies
My DD just developed a head gasket leak. I've been noticing a coolant smell for a few days and today saw lots of white smoke from the tail pipe. I figured this is where my coolant was going and sure enough there is coolant coming from the driver's side head. I've ordered the gaskets and new bolts, but need the install.
I think mostly what I will need is the intake and head bolt torque and sequence. I will need to take a few days off work to get it done. Truck is a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L engine.
View 2 Replies
2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
View 3 Replies
My 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
View 4 Replies
Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug. I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
View 13 Replies
I noticed on a few occasions that there is a slight smell of coolant around the front of our Camry after driving it a while. I haven't noticed any decrease in the level in the reservoir.
Since it's a CPO vehicle, I was thinking maybe some coolant was spilled during the inspection process. A little spilled coolant can go a long way, and last a long time.
View 4 Replies
I just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
View 4 Replies
Went to start my truck up about 3 hours ago to take my ol' lady to work. Turned it over and acted like the usual cold start. Well soon as I thought it was good to let the engine spin, it got to about 300-400 RPM and then died. So I shut the vent off and turned my head lights off (turned them on soon as I thought it was good), spun the engine again and when it hesitated once again I gave it some gas like you would on a carb (not pumping just gave it half throttle or so) brought up the engine to about 3K and it ran just fine.
I'm not sure if its the fuel filter (when the last time my dad even bothered to change it since he has done most of the work on it in the time we've had it) or if the fuel pump is going out for the 3rd time in the last 10 years. The last time the fuel pump went it was a bad Walker fuel pump. It was promptly replaced with a Bosch and has been going strong for the last 8 years or so.
If it is the fuel pump, my guess is either my dad is going to junk it or fix it. With it getting close to 260K miles its becoming warn out and showing its age. Been pretty dependable and will do just about anything you ask and it'll do it even if it takes a long time to get going.
The fuel lines are pretty rusty so if its the filter chances are we'll have to put in a new section of fuel line in. Its probably running close to 135K miles on it since it was last done. I've only started doing maintenance on it the last 6 years or so for the most part.
View 2 Replies
Drove for 25 miles. Park, try to restart to park truck at other place. Truck start but very rough. Did drive for 20 yards and truck stop. Try to restart no way. I think I do not hear fuel pump when I turn key and gas pedal fill completely empty, no any force to move it. Should I assume fuel pump or should check some sensors first? I have P0420 for a few weeks, not source of this problem. Drove truck before with P0420 for years. No other code. Do we have PATS in keys? My truck is f250 99 LD. My pickup have PATS. How to check it?
View 5 Replies
97 F150 4.6 Vin 6, 5-Speed Trans, 200,000mi, Rebuilt recently. I was on my way to get my truck smogged, but she threw a code, P0171. I read somewhere to clean the throttle body elbow, which I did (needed to do it anyway). After I had everything put back together, I start her, and it's rough and immediately dies. If I keep the RPM's at about 1.5k for a minute, then let off, the truck will run fine for about 30-45 seconds, then die again. I just replaced my IAC and the problem persists.
View 8 Replies
I am new to FTE and have a question about my 99 4.2l. After it warms up, i can shut it off and about 30 mins later try to start it again and it will idle very rough and sometimes stall. I also noticed that it surges sometimes with just off idle throttle when its cold. I am not getting any codes thrown, here's what I've done so far: cleaned the maf and throttle body, and it didnt work at all. I did convert my cht over to ect by using the plugged coolant outlet on the lower right side of the intake manifold and extending the connector wires which actually solved the problem a little bit but it still does it from time to time.
More info about the cht to ect conversion, but after reading that ford did away with them in later models i wanted to do the same while at the same time making it so much easier to swap it out if ever needed. No more getting under the truck. And where im at cht's are kind of hard to come by without having to order them Anyway, it worked flawlessly! I only had to extend the wires by about 8", wrapped them and ran it along side the injectors for a clean factory look. Ill try to post pics soon...
View 1 Replies
2000 5.4l lariat. My cylinder 1 for 2 years has been poping p0301code and has a rough idle at start for about 30 seconds. It also has a little white smoke for that 30seconds. new cop, new spark plug, new spark plug pig tail, swapped injectors to different cylinders multiple times to change code no luck. Compression dry and wet are at 200 and all cylinders are within10%. I had a dorman intake manifold installed 4 years ago and the code came a few years after. Im thinking intake manifold gasket is bad between cylinder 1 and the heater bypass tube allowing coolant to slowly leak down into the cylinder causing my rough start. I looked through the injector hole but could not tell. With all the info I have given is there any other places or things that it could be before I do a gasket replacement or is all my tests leading to the intake manifold gasket...
View 5 Replies
1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L. So I've replaced my thermostat thinking that would fix the coolant vanishing problem, turns out it did not. Make tank became dry once again and my temp gauge keeps going back and forth from cold to hot.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
View 14 Replies
I recently bought a 4.2L V6 2003 F150 with only 20,350 original miles. This car belonged to an older gent who barely used it, then passed on about 3 years ago, and truck sat around barely used by anyone. When I picked it up I ran some Seafoam through the first two gas tanks as it was occasionally running rough and losing power. Since then truck has been running incredibly smooth, but in the last few days it is getting harder to start. If I pumped it two or three times it would start OK, but today I have had to pump it while cranking it to get it to start. ( the pumping may have nothing to do with it starting)
I am replacing the fuel filter in the next couple of days, as any accumulated junk that was in the tank or lines is now probably in the filter, but it seems that a badly clogged filter would also give me some problems running, and it runs really smooth once it starts. I get a pressure gauge, (I understand the rails have a pressure test port) what pressures should I expect at what moments?
Turn key on :
Crank engine :
I am brand new to the F150 and trucks in general.
View 6 Replies
1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
View 2 Replies
I haven't really gotten under it to check this out, but my truck (see signature) has a slight vibration on take off. It only does it when the wheels are turned to the right or left. They don't have to be turned very far either. It doesn't do it on straight line take offs, or on a take off from a rolling stop. ONLY when pulling off from a dead stop and the front wheels are turned any degree to the right or left. I'm running mostly bald all terrain tires, the wheels are not bent. My current wheels are new to the truck, and the problem was there with the previous rim/tire combination. The rear end doesn't seem to have any slack in it. The transmission shifts like a top. There are no other clanks or vibrations anywhere in the drivetrain and it drives good.
View 9 Replies
I have a 99 F350 with a V10. I just replaced all the spark plugs and a bad coil which solved the very bad misfire I had going on. I also just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter.
When I start the truck, it idles just fine, nice and smooth. After sitting there for a short bit, maybe a couple minutes, it starts to idle rough, not so rough that it's about to shut off, just a little rough. This lasts maybe a minute and then goes back to nice and smooth and stays that way.
I've thought maybe the EGR valve or Idle air control valve but I'm not sure if I'm way off or sort of close.
View 1 Replies
Acquired a 1997 Subaru Legacy a few weeks ago. Drive it for a prolonged time in the heat, at speed, and you can smell warm coolant from the engine compartment. And the temperature gauge hovers in the middle of the dial, no matter what.
My wife explained the smell away by guessing she'd spilled coolant when she topped it up. But it's been weeks since she did that. Also - this sucker drinks coolant. I'm guessing every 2-3 days I'm adding another gallon.
It occurs to me that ... maybe .. a leak on top of a pipe so the coolant doesn't drip out, but the loss of pressure (from the hole) causes the fluid to boil and flash out? This might explain the 'higher than I'd like to see' operating temperature.
View 5 Replies
