Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Lights Will Dim Momentarily And Brighten Right Back Up When Driving Under 2000 RPM
Aug 6, 2013
I have a 2000 F-150 5.4. The lights will dim very momentarily and brighten right back up when driving under 2000 rpm. It is barely noticeable except on the small back roads at night. It is actual the most noticeable on the dome light. I replaced a failing alternator probably a month or so ago and I don't remember it before I replaced the alternator. What could be involved with the new part to cause the flicker. Could it be bad ground connection or what? I don't have any voltage readouts or anything. I can get those tomorrow.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
View 11 Replies
1997 Expedition ... I've looked through quite a few 4X4 issue threads and haven't seen my issue described yet ..
When in 4X4 high most times all is well but every once in a while the lights on the dash will flash from 4X4 to 4Lo then 4AWD then settle right back where it should be at 4X4. I don't think that the front axle is being affected as the truck doesn't seem to fall out of and then back into front axle lock.
My guess is that this is an electrical issue but will get to the bottom of it and report back.
View 2 Replies
I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2000 F-150 XL with a 4.2 V-6, a 5 speed manual transmission and manual shift on the fly transfer case. The 4WD went out over a year ago. When it went out, I was driving at 65 MPH and heard what sounded like rapid relay chatter for several seconds (10 to 15 seconds) and it stopped. The sound seemed like it was coming from the dashboard area where the GEM is located, but may have been from the solenoids mounted on the engine compartment firewall. Actually could have been from both. When the 4WD tried to engage while driving at 65 MPH, the dash lights were flashing on and off and it sounded like the front differential was trying to engage. Of course I slowed down while this occurred to avoid damaging the truck should it succeeded to engage the front differential.
I have a Haynes manual but the wiring diagrams are some what ambiguous as my truck is not as common as those having ESOF. Even researching online I am not certain if the info pertains to my truck. The only diagram I found to be accurate is the vacuum control diagram. I believe I have either a wiring problem or the GEM is bad. When troubleshooting I like to isolate at the middle points to quickly eliminate one side or another when looking at a diagram/schematic.
Ford had a well-noted problem with the two solenoids that control the 4WD actuator and are mounted on the engine compartment firewall. So I started here, as this is a good halfway point and high failure area.Well, the solenoid power connectors had 12 volts on both connector pins (if I remember correctly as it was a year ago when I did some troubleshooting)regardless of transfer case shift position (2wd, 4wd high or low). I was able to manipulate the solenoids and verified they were operating, as I could feel and here the solenoids click when grounding the control side of the pin on each solenoid. I did check fuse 23 prior to checking the solenoids. Since 12 volts was present at the solenoids, it indicated power was getting to them.
So another common problem is the transfer case 4WDsensor. I removed, cleaned, and verified operation of the sensor. Reinstalled and check sensor state with transfer case in all 3 positions and it was working correctly. Also I have no 4WD indication on the dashboard when 4WD high or low is selected. Fuse 6 is good.
My main issue is not having confidence with the wiring diagrams I have found online. I am not sure if my truck has a MSOF relayor the transfer case 4WD sensor signal goes directly to the GEM.
I need to check:
1. Wiring from transfer case 4WD sensor to either GEM or MSOF relay, if there is a relay, will check it along with wiring to GEM,but don't believe it exists for my truck. (I need the wiring diagram to do this)
2. If the transfer case 4WD sensor output is getting to the GEM module, I would think the GEM module is bad. If possible, I would like to check the GEM module outputs to the solenoids, but since the GEM is buried behind the fuse panel, it probably is not feasible.
I plan to call the Ford service department in my area to determine what GEM I have and will buy a GEM online. Replacing the GEM does not look fun, so I have avoided it but wanted to be sure it was the problem.
So I want to know if I am tracking correctly and if there is anything else I should check, and would like the correct wiring diagram as indicated in item 1.
View 8 Replies
I was driving my f150 with the AC on, it has a 4 position fan switch. Lo, 1 , 2, and Hi. The fan only works on Hi. I don't think its a fuse, so what are the possibilities ?
View 3 Replies
I have a 1997 f-150, and the other week i was driving when my driving lights went out. My Day time running lights went out in the front (DRL) and my driving lights in the rear won't come on either. The dash back light wont come on, and neither with the lights behind the A/C panel. I checked all the fuses, and none were blown, and I still replaced some anyway. And I replaced the actual headlamp switch itself. I have no clue what to do next.
View 5 Replies
My truck is trying to start its self the lights flash and one of the relays makes a loud buzzing sound. I can take the relay out the sound stops but they truck still tries to start/lights flash.
My wife has been saying she's been hearing a clicking as she drives it coming from the drivers side somewhere she thinks under the dash. But at this point nothing happen. And it had not been raining any when this was happening not for a long time.
The first time anything mechanical happen was only the lights came on and stayed on and drained my battery about a week after wife heard the clicking noise. I recharged the battery and chalked it up to my wife maybe bumping the light switch slightly causing them to stay on and not auto on and off. truck ran fine for a couple of weeks then wife drove it again the other day and after she got home she called me at work saying it was making a bad buzzing sound lights were on and its trying to crank, while it was sitting in my driveway with no one in it (sacred her to death).
That day it was raining. Now I had a small drip coming from driverside window inside so I thought maybe went down on my fuse box. So today I tried to get it out but having a hard time getting cables to disconnect so i left it and inspected really well and it does not appear to have been wet at all. Dust on top no water trails or marks same from side bottom and in the fuse holder. So i really don't know whats going on. Maybe still is fuse box?
2000 f150 5.4l 4x4 ......
View 1 Replies
2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2000 f150 lariat. Mo problem started about 2 weeks ago. Around town its fine but when I go over 50 mph it feels like I'm driving down the rumble strips on the highway and after a couple miles it just smooths out and its fine! Yesterday I went on the interstate and it did the same but this time I ran up to 85 and the vibration stopped.
I had another motor put in about 2 months ago, #4, and he changed my rear u joint as well. I replaced the rear passenger side wheel bearing a couple months ago but there seemed like a little play in the axle still but not bad. I've been to the dealer and a few other mechanics but it doesn't do it all the time and they couldn't find what is wrong.
View 6 Replies
I just installed a new Bosch 125 Amp alternator about a week ago.
Puts out 13.9 to 14.0 at the battery with everything running at idle. When you rev the engine the head lights brighten for a moment then settle down to what might be considered normal. Battery holds at 12.6 volts over night and cranks no problem.
Only reason I replaced the alternator is because it is original and has traveled 280,000 kms already. Bearings were getting a little rough, although it seemed to be charging almost the same as the new one. (13.6 versus 14.0 for the new one).
Battery is 8 years old and has a 108 month 'life' to it, so should be replaced before winter sets in.
Could there be a problem with that screw on the back of the alternator referenced in a few posts, or is it possible that the battery is trying to say, 'I'm getting tired!'
View 1 Replies
I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
View 2 Replies
2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500... When slowing down for stop, when almost stopped, sometimes the brake pedal pushes back momentarily, makes a bit of a (errrr) noise, and for two or three seconds during the push back the brakes do not work. Mechanic has cleaned ABS wheel sensors. All brake pads are good. The truck computer shows all systems okay. All brake lines are new or one year old.
View 2 Replies
2005 Yesterday the ABS, VSC and (!) lights came on when I accelerated hard out of a right turn and momentarily lost traction from the back tires. In addition, the parking brake light came on and won't go out whether or not the parking brake is engaged. I had the car towed to the dealership, and I"m waiting for them to look at it.
View 2 Replies
My 2014 Super Duty, the accessory delay relay is starting to acted up. When driving my instrument cluster and heater/AC will cut-out momentarily once in awhile. I guess Ford has known about this problem for years and hasn't done anything to fix this known problem in their Super Duties. My truck is almost out of warranty and I guess to fix the accessory delay relay is to replace the whole instrument cluster with a new one with the same defective part. Of course, the accessory delay relay will never acted up a the dealership because it's totally random. Plus, I don't trust the incompetent people who work at my local dealership to do a good job on tearing out my trucks interior and to get it back together like factory. I'm at a loss.
View 10 Replies
I have "new to me" 2000 VW Passat GLX (station wagon). Intermittently at @ 30 mph it will make a thunk and momentarily "brake" as if it just hit a pot hole. I assume its transmission related, but what am I looking at to repair it?
View 3 Replies
2003 ranger xlt 4wd electrical - My radio lights up when driving lights are on but no clock display or anything else. My cigarette lighter and aux power outlet do not work and mym 4wd does not work. when i try to change from 2wd to 4wd no lights come on in the dash. I have checked all fuses and they are good. What to check next?
View 4 Replies
My passenger side front signal light works properly, but when I turn my hazard lights on it will not blink normally (the other 3 blink). Inside my truck when looking at my dash I see the small green blinking arrow for the left signal, but not for the right when the hazards are on. When using the signal normally, I see the small blinking green arrow for the right signal though.
1997 F150 Supercab, 4.6L V8
View 3 Replies
99 F-150 V-6, 125,000 miles: I repaired the odometer connection on the cluster mother board! It now works great but now have no running (parking) lights and no backlights for the instrument cluster. I think (!) they were working before I pulled the cluster to fix the odometer--not sure. Fuzes are all good--I metered each with ohmmeter for continuity, and also have 12V to the right fuzes with headlite switch in Park and Head. I replaced the headlight switch with a new one but still the same problem. Have I messed up something in the cluster board or connections by soldering there? I don't know what role the cluster plays in feeding the running lites or the cluster backup lites. Stumped. What am I missing?
View 3 Replies
I've got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4 with the 4.6. I plugged in trailer lights and now I have no brake, turn signal, or hazard lights. I've checked fuses and none are blown.
View 8 Replies
I have had the PSD about 2 months. It's a 2000 Ext cab LXT.
If you open the door, no lights. If the key is in the ignition and you open the door it buzzes. If you have the light on, the light around the door locks and window controls stay on after you turn off the truck until you open the door. The dome light never comes on unless you use the switch on the light. What's up with the darkness! This truck is like a cave! No under dash lights, no door lights no dome light! As for those red lenses on the door, no wiring, no lights no nada! Do the lights com on when you open the door? Any light?
View 2 Replies
