Stays open all the time. I'm guessing there is a spring somewhere that closes it. Is there a parts breakdown I can look at? I've looked around some but haven't found anything that looks related to this. 1997 F150....
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 F150 XL. The lighter plugs stay on even with the key removed. I just bought this truck and this seems to be odd behavior to me, yet I can find no modified wiring.
View 4 RepliesHere are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
My E-brake light stays on all of the time. I have cleaned the sensor and adjusted the pads on the drum. Any reason why the light stays on? Its driving me crazy.
View 14 RepliesOn my Ex, the power point on the dash stays on even after the car turns off. This leaves anything plugged in powered on permanently. Is there a way to have it turn off with the ignition instead of always being hot?
View 7 RepliesEverything started with the typical lean bank 1 and bank 2 codes. I started at the basics change fuel filter PCV Hose & Valve clean the MAF changed air temp sensor(it was cheap). Still had same po171&po174 codes. Bought a obdll reader. After 3 weeks of nothing being accomplished I bit the bullet and took it to Ford for a diagnostic and they said it was definitely the intake gaskets.
I changed the gaskets and now this has gotten worse! I started the truck after reassembly and it ran like crap!
Checked everything and everywhere and could find nothing wrong. I then took off the vacuum line to the EGR and everything smoothed out. I didn't mess around and replaced the EGR the DPFE and the vacuum solenoid.
It still runs like crap especially at idle. I did the tests with my digital meter and found the vacuum solenoid is calling the EGR to be open all the time. I suspect that this would be the fault of the PCM? What should be my next course of action?
my 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 Super Cab and my son slammed the rear door shut on the passenger side and now it will not open. I can feel the cable flopping around up high in the door, but it is still attached at the mechanism inside the panel. Here's what I have done thus far:
- Pulled the panels off and checked the cables. All are attached at the door lever mechanism under the rear window.
- Pulled the rubber seal back at the top to expose the latch.
- Took a wire coat hanger bent straight and tried in vain to release the upper latch.
- Since it is shut, I can't remove both screws holding the latch in, thus I can't simply take it off and move it to a position where I might get to it easier.
I have a 2002 F-150 extended cab and the rear door(drivers side) quit opening a few days ago. No warning--worked one day and just stopped opening the next. Are there any tricks to getting the panel off to ck. for trouble spots?
View 13 RepliesEverything was fine with my 2000 F-150 until a few weeks ago when I went to open the driver's side pocket door and it would not open. Felt like the latch was releasing but would not open. I went around to the passenger's side pocket door to open it: SAME PROBLEM! This makes no sense; these two doors had worked fine, they operate independently, and I have confirmed with Ford dealers that there is no safety lock feature that may have been activated. Of course, the only remaining options appear to me either my tearing the doors apart, or worse yet paying someone else for the privilege.
View 3 RepliesI'm trying to get an F150/1997 started that's been sitting for about 2 years. After installing the battery, turning the key, nothing happens. No click, no turnover, nothing. The dash lights come on along with open door chime.
What to check first or troubleshoot this? The vehicle was running fine when parked, battery removed. I was thinking the brake pedal switch might be corroded, or maybe someone unplugged something under the hood or tampered with something.
1994 F150 4X 201,000mi ... Replaced clockspring, now have chime alert with door open and key NOT in ignition. Chime shuts off when the door is closed.
View 7 RepliesMy '03 F-150 passenger door "growls" every time the doors lock. Is there a gear on the lock solenoid that could be stripped out or something?
View 2 RepliesIt was working fine then I drove on a 2 hour highway trip and now it will not open. This is the Xtra cab where you open the front door and then the rear from the inside. The door ajar switch is out. I suspect one of the latches is stuck. There is one on the top and one on the bottom of the door.
View 2 Replieswhen i bough the car i went on a test drive and everything was fine, once i bough it and went home my fiance opened the passanger side door to get in, and every sense than the door ajar light is on and the inside lights will never turn off and its draining down the battery, we have tried slamming the door shut and we just dont know what to do, theres not even a sensor botton to check out theres no way to tell what it could be for me as when i open the door to check out the botton like most vehicles do, there isnt one, what could it be?
View 9 Repliesso i have opened and closed every door a million times and my open door light is staying on and when i lock it it doesn't beep like it should. i lock it and then whenever later my alarm/ panic horn goes off. it did this a few days ago but went away but now it won't. [URL]..............
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 F150 Supercrew 4.6L 2wd truck. Just added a set of 32" tires to it. Trucks runs and drives great, so thing I don't like is that around town in traffic it shifts into OD to so. Is there a way of changing the OD shift point?
View 4 RepliesRecently purchased a 2004 Toyota Camry with only 58,000 miles on it. Only one problem has showed up - the "door open" indicator stays lit - does get brighter when an actual door is open and shows which door but never goes all the way out. Sometimes it gets slightly brighter and dimmer, back and forth.
Sporadically when I start the car there is an audible clicking (cycling) back and forth that sounds like a turn signal coming from the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel. The only way I can get it to stop is by opening the door, closing again, open and close the locks, turn the engine on and off, etc.
Yesterday it continued while I was driving and eventually stopped on its own (and again today). Weird - I think it must be a fuse or a relay or something but I pulled all the fuses one by one and they all look good. Not sure where the relay is....The door open indicator never goes completely out though - sometimes it pulses all night long but doesn't seem to run the battery down or anything.
My new 2013 Ford Focus is a making a very, very strange noise every time I open the door. The Ford dealer said it's normal for the type of trans and handed me the following statement: " ....vehicles equipped with the Powershift DPS6 transmission may experience a clicking noise from the transmission after the doors are unlocked, opened and prior to the engine starting, for up to 3 min.
The noise is the shift motors waking up and preparing for startup. Attempts to eliminate the noise should not be made." To make it easier to understand the situation, the following link from a YouTube video explains EXACTLY what is occurring: [URL] .....
Hearing such a ridiculous sound/concept about waking up a transmission. Note, this noise even happens when you open the passenger door. Why does the transmission need to be waked up for someone getting in the passenger side. The car cannot be driven from here.
So my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
My driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?
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