Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Lack Of Power With High Miles - Code P1151
Jun 5, 2015
I just bought a 2000 expedition 4.6 EB.. Just like an f150 same principles apply. Here's the issue, it has 284k miles. I realize its probably just tired and worn out but it just doesn't have any torque it seems. If you punch it above 60 it barely creeps up the speedo, my 00 f150 4wd with the same engine about same mileage was way stronger. My only code currently is P1151 dealing with the o2. Plugs are new coils and most all else is probably old. Just wondering if something is wrong and not throwing code or if its just a tired engine in a heavy vehicle?
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I have a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 past few months it has been throwing a p1151 code meaning it is coming up lean on the driver side. I just changed the plugs and it didn't work, neither did changing the fuel and air filters. cant find any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Replaced a bad injector along with the spark plugs and its still coming up lean.
The truck also seems to bog down at about 50-60 mph if i let off the gas and coast it will drop about 300 rpms. It has me confused and annoyed, i have true duals with glass packs could that be causing it?
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I have a 2003, 4.6 F-150 with 201,500 miles
I am having some A/C issues. It's just too hot out there.
#1 The truck has a lack of power when I have the A/C on. It feels like it wants to stall out in the lower RPM's. I loose power when I go 65mph+. The truck actually stalled on me yesterday in the parking lot. I turned off the A/C and it ran fine.
#2 I have to go over a 5000ft pass daily, I turn off the A/C when I go over it. Below the pass, the A/C doesn't work well and it's not as cold. But when I get over the pass, the A/C turns very cold. The pass is like a 3-4 mile stretch.
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I am working on a 97 4.6 with 146k for a friend. It idles rough and seems to lack power (then again a 4.6 lacks power )
Has New:
plugs
wires
coil packs
fuel filter
sea foam intake
sea foam fuel
I have checked:
proper egr function
vacuum leaks
cleaned IAC
steady 17-18 in vac
clean air filter
cats do not seem to be getting too hot.
no codes
KOEO test ok
KOER test ok
The plugs worked some. Dirty MAF, clogged cats??
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My 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
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I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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corrected vaccum leak. Still high idle and obd2 code 1506???
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A few days days ago I noticed a check engine light and pulled an 1151 code. The truck runs great, like it always does. It's a '99 Eddie Bauer 5.0 with 275K. I turned the code off and a day later it came on again with no difference in the running.
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1998 Ranger 4x4 4.0 Ltr - Runs rough ever now and then and CEL giving P1151 code. Upper and lower intake gaskets have been replaced.
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
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Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't work in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be hard up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph.
At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor.
Regardless of which spring I put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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Picked up a second 7.3, just finished installing the new transmission last night, took it on a drive last night, everything was fine.
Went to bring it home last night- and found myself unable to maintain 50-55mph on back roads at 3500 rpm.
At first it almost seemed like I wasn't getting 3rd/4th gear, but upon taking it for a spin with torque pro, I am getting all gears, overdrive works, TC locks- all appears good there. Trans is getting really hot- but I believe I messed up the bypass lines or the bypass valve is not opening correctly- not the biggest concern.
I let the truck cool to more normal operating temps, took it for a spin, same story. I top out flooring it at about 55mph. No fault codes other than my faulty glow plug module. Everything I'm monitoring on torquepro looks fine with the exception of boost. When I floor my other 7.3, I get 15-20 psi, this, I get like.. 4. Unplugged MAP, nothing changed.
Turbo shot? Glogged pipes? These are my first initial thoughts. Let me know if I'm going in the right direction here, I can rebuild a gas motor in my sleep, but diesels are a newer animal to me, I've only had them about 2 months.
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I had a p1211 code when I first got Torque Pro hooked up. I figured it was just because I'd done a couple WOT runs and the HPOP just can't quite keep up with the injectors. I was told this might happen when I ordered the injectors from Gear head. I also noticed that my ICP peaked at around 3600 during one of these runs. I don't have it logged, but I'm certain it was up that high.
The code hasn't returned, but I haven't been running it too hard either. I don't quite know what to make of the ICPs actually being that high. From looking at a bunch of Rich's graphs his doesn't really get past 2800 or 2900. Is this an incorrect reading? Do I need to worry about anything?
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I have a 98 ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 it has 228,000miles standard tranny but I keep the truck running great. I did the plugs and wires about two weeks ago and it was running fine, actually great. This morning I got into the truck to start it this morning and it barely started. It fired up but barely stayed idling. I would get into the petal and it wouldn't raise rpms. I had to get to school so I headed out. I couldn't get any speed in gear the truck wouldn't gain speed. It would sputter and pop and then all of a sudden it would go ok but then start popping again. I took it to a buddy shop and his scanner showed p1131 and p1151 both codes. I don't know what to do?
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So I got an IDM code and then after running AE buzz test got a P1273 (#3 cylinder high low open).
Ohm'd out the 42 Pin - got 3 across the board. Only test 42 pin from valve cover to injectors.
Double checked UVHC
Swapped solenionds
Swapped injectors
Did ford wiggle test.
Ran Injector buzz between all those steps and still get P1273.
What's the next step? Ohm from IDM to 42pin? May actually be a bad IDM?
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Today I just installed a brand new IDM and after running the Injector Buzz Test test, I received codes: P1298 Injector Drive Module Failure, P1293 Injector High Side Open - Bank 1, and P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2. How a new IDM could throw these codes?
When running the KOEO test I received codes P0605 Injector Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error, P1298, P1293, & P1294.
My engine is still missing but the engine is running a heck of a lot better after replacing the IDM and injector 8 has a rotational velocity of about 3%
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Getting DTC Code P1271 - #1 Injector High -> Low Side Open.
The code tends to show up more during cold weather start up. Using AE-AutoEngenuity KOEO - Buzz Test returns the P1271 error
Troubleshooting performed:
- 42-Pin Connector @ Driver Side Valve Cover
- 9-pin VCH on Passenger side
- IDM Module under driver side wheel well
- All of these are testing within the 2.8 - 3.2 Ohm range
- (Used the GB Reman. Tech Bulletin 103) - TB 103: 1994-03 Ford 7.3L IDM Replacement & Diagnostics)
I was going to replace the solenoid, however, with the above readings I'm not convinced it's the solenoid. Before I tear into the valve covers I was looking for some add'l thoughts from the forum. Could it be the IDM ?....
Any add'l checks to perform using AE, or the IDM, other than replacing IDM.
01 Platinum 7.3 - BTS - PHP Hydra Tunes - 4" FloPro - Riff RaffWheel - Redhead Steering - Driven Diesel Hutch/Harpoon - Kenwood DVD w/ back up- 35"s - GloPro EGT/Pyro/Boost/Trans, Scan Gauge II, AE bundle
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So when I got this truck everything on the brakes were messed up. So long story short I got a new master cylinder new pads and all lines are bled. Now this hole time my ABS light has been on so I looked at all the sensors and i found one connector that goes to the rear axle but it has no where to plug into. But I also found some writing on the axle which tells me that is a different axle and may not have had ABS set up. But I am not sure. Now the problem I am having is when I hit the breaks i don't have much bite but if i push on them harder the rear will lock up and the front brakes are biting just a little like 50% power. So how can I get more stopping power to the front pads ? And if its that unconnected sensor is there anyway i can loop in out of the system ?.
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 243k. I think the injectors are shot but other people including a local mechanic say it's not the injectors. What the truck does is smoke white. Sometimes little puffs when accelerating. Sometimes clouds that make the people behind you drop back a 100 feet. I have a ts6 on the truck and that alone with the 243k miles is enough to think its bad injectors. It smoke white. The exhaust is moist to the touch with soot built up like crazy. It doesn't really smell sweet and it's not really blue at all. It's getting horrible mpg. And lacks power. I don't have a high enough psi gauge to test compression. All arrows pointing to injectors?
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