Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Lack Of Power / AC Stalling Out Truck
Aug 7, 2012
I have a 2003, 4.6 F-150 with 201,500 miles
I am having some A/C issues. It's just too hot out there.
#1 The truck has a lack of power when I have the A/C on. It feels like it wants to stall out in the lower RPM's. I loose power when I go 65mph+. The truck actually stalled on me yesterday in the parking lot. I turned off the A/C and it ran fine.
#2 I have to go over a 5000ft pass daily, I turn off the A/C when I go over it. Below the pass, the A/C doesn't work well and it's not as cold. But when I get over the pass, the A/C turns very cold. The pass is like a 3-4 mile stretch.
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my 97 f150 4.2L keeps stalling on acceleration. It ran fine this morning then my wife put 20 dollars of fuel in it and drove 30 miles to her destination with no problem. on her way back the truck started bucking bogging down and acting like there was a fuel problem but it didn't kill. I checked for codes there were none. I removed the fuel filter on the rail and replaced it with a new one. Now it will idle fine with no miss but if I give it gas it kills.
I checked the codes again there are none. I also checked to make sure there was fuel coming from the tank when I turned the key as well as making sure I heard the fuel pump kick on when I first turned the key.I am leaning towards water in the fuel,i didn't see any trash come out of the old filter, however I am not sure. I have a 175 mile commute to and from work.
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I am working on a 97 4.6 with 146k for a friend. It idles rough and seems to lack power (then again a 4.6 lacks power )
Has New:
plugs
wires
coil packs
fuel filter
sea foam intake
sea foam fuel
I have checked:
proper egr function
vacuum leaks
cleaned IAC
steady 17-18 in vac
clean air filter
cats do not seem to be getting too hot.
no codes
KOEO test ok
KOER test ok
The plugs worked some. Dirty MAF, clogged cats??
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I just bought a 2000 expedition 4.6 EB.. Just like an f150 same principles apply. Here's the issue, it has 284k miles. I realize its probably just tired and worn out but it just doesn't have any torque it seems. If you punch it above 60 it barely creeps up the speedo, my 00 f150 4wd with the same engine about same mileage was way stronger. My only code currently is P1151 dealing with the o2. Plugs are new coils and most all else is probably old. Just wondering if something is wrong and not throwing code or if its just a tired engine in a heavy vehicle?
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My 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
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I am perfectly capable of doing the repairs just short on time. the only shop in town is booked out 2 weeks, i need my truck sooner. 2006 f150 5.4v 3v 168k. I bought it with 150k and it was clean and ford maintained from the original owner. for a while it has been fluttering from time to time during acceleration. last week it started shuttering and missing around 45 trying to accel. no cel. I've read and actually fixed my freinds 08 but replacing cop and plugs. I bought motorcraft plugs and granatelli coils. friday morning it didn't want to start, cranked for a bit then locked up, as if hydrolocked.
I let it sit 5 minutes then cranked again and it fired but hesitating and missing like never before. anything passed 3k rpm it ran good no load. i had to drive it and it doesnt want to shift properly, revving way past normal shift points. smoking alot more than normal. hard to tell being 5 degrees out. finally got some codes. bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich 4 times lean twice. Saturday i changed the oil plugs. and coils plugs were not original but were worn enough to visually see. all of the passenger plugs were a nice brown color. all of the driver side were jet black of carbon which follows the o2 cel. i reset it with my glorifed code buddy and it took a while if at all to come back. so im thinking not an o2 sensor????
It runs rough and will stall from time to time, I am to the point where i wont drive it. i will be replacing the camshaft sensors and vct solenoids tonight, and that one 2 if i have time. from what I've read phazers will cause a rough idle but once under load at least have some performance. when i accel it the rpms stall out before a shift i cant get anymore power, say wont got over 3200rpm. when chains and guides need to be replaced whats the symptoms??
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This just started happening last week. When I put the truck into reverse, the engine lugs down and dies. It' as if the AT is fully engaging reverse gear with no clutching action. If give the truck a bit of pedal, I can put her in reverse and back up without issue. Going forward into Drive has no issues.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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I have a 2005 Durango. Started stalling out only a few days after I bought it (June 2010). Replaced EGR valve. Throttle body service. Back to the dealer several more times--couldn't find problem. Stalling, revving, hard shifting, hesitating, lack of power progressively worsened. Transmission rebuilt in Jan 2012, bell housing leak and repair in June 2012, torque converter clutch, water pump, idler pully, fuel injector, coil, vacuum sensor, air intake sensor, knock sensor, PCV valve, plugs and wires, and probably a few others I can't recall all addressed at one point or another. Continues to stall (often at shift changes, and at any speed from start up to 40 MPH), revs in park and at a stops, hesitates, hard/ delayed shifting, and doesn't like wet conditions. Am at a loss for a solution at this point and vehicle is just danged dangerous to drive as it stalls at the most inopportune times!!
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
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Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't work in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be hard up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph.
At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor.
Regardless of which spring I put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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Picked up a second 7.3, just finished installing the new transmission last night, took it on a drive last night, everything was fine.
Went to bring it home last night- and found myself unable to maintain 50-55mph on back roads at 3500 rpm.
At first it almost seemed like I wasn't getting 3rd/4th gear, but upon taking it for a spin with torque pro, I am getting all gears, overdrive works, TC locks- all appears good there. Trans is getting really hot- but I believe I messed up the bypass lines or the bypass valve is not opening correctly- not the biggest concern.
I let the truck cool to more normal operating temps, took it for a spin, same story. I top out flooring it at about 55mph. No fault codes other than my faulty glow plug module. Everything I'm monitoring on torquepro looks fine with the exception of boost. When I floor my other 7.3, I get 15-20 psi, this, I get like.. 4. Unplugged MAP, nothing changed.
Turbo shot? Glogged pipes? These are my first initial thoughts. Let me know if I'm going in the right direction here, I can rebuild a gas motor in my sleep, but diesels are a newer animal to me, I've only had them about 2 months.
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Fuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
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After/during the rain, every other time my truck loses considerable power to accelerate. It's not consistent but happens increasingly often. As I accelerate up to ~ 50km/h (also when I reverse), my engine will shake the entire truck. Past 50 it "appears" to go away. Typically this will last up to 10 mins and will disappear and run fine again. The last time it happened the check engine light came on and went away the next day. After reading online, I've heard about the "COP" connection??
2003 Ford F-150, 4.6L Triton V8 XL, 2WD
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I have a 2003 Excursion 4X4 V10 (6.8l) gas with 130K.
About six months ago, the truck started stalling at irregular intervals. The truck runs fine for weeks at a time, but will suddenly die. This happens at idle, and under power. After stalling, the truck usually starts back up, but there has been a few instances where I thought it sounded fuel starved. It has stalled as many as four times in a row (within 15 minutes), but shortly after it runs fine again.
I researched this board, and tried the following: cleaned the MAF, and replaced the IAC Valve.
But, it stalled again, so in late February I took it to the dealer; a AAA approved repair facility which means they guarantee the fix for two years.
The dealer claimed to have pulled a P0231 code. As a result, they replaced the fuel pump and assembly, along with the fuel filter.
The truck ran fine until two weeks ago, then it went thru a series of stalls again. In each instance, the truck started right up, and I drove it to the dealer.
The dealer took it in again and had it for six business days, but they could not replicate the issue. I suggested they test the PCM/fuel relay and the signal going to the fuel pump - they said everything checked out okay. No charge, the ticket remains open.
What could be causing this? I am not too good with electrical stuff; in fact, I know very little. Another member explained a way to test the signal at the time the truck stalls, but I am not sure if I could competently do it. I am thinking I need to start replacing part after part until it stops? I don't mind doing that, but would need to know which parts to focus on. Should I start with the MAF? I cleaned it, but do not know how to test it.
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 243k. I think the injectors are shot but other people including a local mechanic say it's not the injectors. What the truck does is smoke white. Sometimes little puffs when accelerating. Sometimes clouds that make the people behind you drop back a 100 feet. I have a ts6 on the truck and that alone with the 243k miles is enough to think its bad injectors. It smoke white. The exhaust is moist to the touch with soot built up like crazy. It doesn't really smell sweet and it's not really blue at all. It's getting horrible mpg. And lacks power. I don't have a high enough psi gauge to test compression. All arrows pointing to injectors?
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I have a 2003 f150 2WD crew cab with a 4.6 V8 engine it has 178,000 miles on it. The other day after I started it to leave work it died on me without hesitation almost like the ignition switch was turned off I tried to restart and it would turn over but wouldn't start so I switched the ignition all the way off and it started right up, going down the road it did it again.
If I try to restart without turning the ignition all the way off it won't start but if I turn it all the way off it will start up first try, it has done it a couple times since and its the same way every time, where to start. My check engine light has been on for some time for something else so I don't know if it picked up a code or not I don't have a code reader to see if it has a new code...
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I have a 2003 Grand AM GT 3.4 with 166,000 miles, its hard to explain but will try. When your first taken off the car seems like its holding back, but then once you hit 3,000 rpm's with the gas pedal still pressed the same amount the car takes right off like it has a power band. Same thing regardless happens all the time under 3,000rpm.
Going down the highway at 70 and you start to go up a slight incline, you give it a little gas and you can feel the car having lack of power, then you press a bit more on the gas and it kicks down a gear and goes. Then back in the same situation once back under 3,000 rpm.
The car idles normal, check engine light will come on once in a while, but goes back off before i have a chance to see what code it is. I do notice when the check engine light comes on, you can feel the car lack power for just a second. I just replaced the o2 sensor today thinking it was that.
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