Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Knocking At Startup / Screech On Acceleration
Aug 31, 2012
I am going to start from the beginning because oftens times we don't provide all of the information that may be pertinent to the correct diagnosis or repair. It'll be kind of lengthy! It all started about 3 days ago when my wife told me that my truck was "shaking." I said, "ok, just drive the car til' I can look at it" The next morning, the I was able to look at the truck. I had a cylinder 8 misfire detected. I drove it for about 1 hour that day to and from work. I did this so I could see what what the "shaking" was. It was actually what I describe as a "shudder."
Anyways, I done a fuel pressure check and all was well. I took of the coil, tested it, it was fine. So, I took out the plug to inspect it. It was wet! Not drinched, just mildly damp. I dried it off, cleaned it off with carb cleaner and it fired right up no hesitation no nothing. No CEL light, no shaking, no shuddering. It ran perfectly normal. I let it warm up to speed and took it for a test drive around about 6 city blocks. All was well. So I took it on the highway for about a 2 mile stretch. I was givin' her some juice pretty hard to see if it would misfire. Upon acceleration I heard a screech. Now this is where it get's interesting.
The screech that I hear, I just related it to the belt because it's done it ALL the time. When I first bought the truck it squalled like a whipped puppy cause of a cheap belt. The good ol' bar of soap trick fixed that! But, ever since then, it upon shifting, or under acceleration it would screech then stop. So anyways, on the highway run, it screeched while I was accelerating. It did this from about 60mph-80mph. I then, turned around and came back home. By the time I got to the stoplight to turn off towards my house my oil light was on and the engine was knocking. Not a tap, a knock.
I slowly coasted home not going over 20mph and pulling it out of drive as much as I could. I get home, and I check the oil and there is nothing on the dipstick! WTF!? I always run Mobil1 Full synthetic and put it 6qts. It doesn't smoke, doesn't leak or nothing! So I freaked out and went and bought 2 qts of Valvoline Hi-Mi and poured it in. It brought up the hash marks and quieted the deep knock. Later that night after work, I done a full oil change and flush and put back in my Mobil1 Fully synthetic 5w20. It now knocks at startup, and smooths out to a tic. Then at idle, it sounds like a light knock. It appears that it goes away upon acceleration.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 5.4l with 105k miles. I started it up today to go to lunch and it made a knocking sound on start up that lasted maybe 20 seconds. So i shut it off and checked oil. All ok. Started it up again and it knocked but not as long as it did previously. I started to drive and higher in the rpm range before the trans shifts it makes the same knocking sound. Left off the pedal it goes away then rev it again it doesn't make the knock till around 2000rpm mark it I remember correctly. It makes the noise in all gears, parked or driving. It runs great, no power loss or misfire. Could it be a spark plug on the verge of blowing out or is it time for a new motor? I am going to look at it more tonight when I get off work.
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2003 6.0 F350... Under full throttle from take off goes about 20 mph just revs at 2500 let off the throttle in feather it shifts and acts like it wants to go just not allot of power sometimes. In neutral won't rev past 2700 rpms I do hear a screech from the turbo on acceleration and declaration. Also if in tow haul the truck won't shift at all. I can get it up to speed but even the smallest incline drops to 50 mph then takes bout 2 miles to get it back up to 65 mph or if I go downhill.... turbo makes the noise the whole time sometimes goes into passing gear in have to let off in it kinda my the truck hop in this is at 60 +mph. Only thing I have really tired was fuel filters and checked at plugs and boots.
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I have a 4.2 with 330km (206k miles). Recently I have noticed some unfamiliar sounds that I'm trying to diagnose. First off, lately when starting the truck cold, it sometimes makes a metallic screech /clank-like noise. It just lasts for a moment when the engine catches, then disappears. Doesn't happen every time but has happened at least 1/2 dozen times the last couple of weeks. Sounds like metal gears colliding. Haven't noticed any drive-ability issues.
As well, I changed the oil a couple of days ago and when I stuck my head under the truck afterwards to check for leaks, I could hear a definite rattling / clattering noise from the area near the oil filter.
Does this sound like timing chain?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata which gets a sporadic high screech upon startup. I associate this sound the key left in the ignition after the car has already turned over. It will go away as soon as I shift into drive. Is this the problem with the ignition switch or starter? How difficult is this to diagnose as it only happens on occasion? Assuming it's the ignition switch, might I be damaging the starter if it continues?
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My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
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I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
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My 2000 F150 started knocking, it does this after I get up to speed and let off the gas a bit, it will know as I push on the gas again but if I push heavy on the gas it dose not knock, What could if be? By the way it is a hard knock not a pinging sound.
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1997 F150 4x4 210,000 4.6L Windsor 5 Speed. Engine totally rebuilt 15k ago (besides for timing chains and tensioners). No codes thrown.
This morning when i started my truck, it made a knocking sound (almost like metal slapping) that seemed to be coming from the bottom end of the engine. At first I thought it was a spun bearing, but then the sound went away after a minute or 2. I have Google'd the problem, and have found a few diagnoses such as: oil draining back from the filter (or something like that), or an exhaust manifold leak that stops when the metal warms up and expands, or even the starter motor not being aligned right and not disengaging properly...
This is the first time this truck has ever done this. I changed the oil and filter about 1000 miles ago with 10w-30 oil and I believe a WIX filter. Also, this is the first time using the WIX filter
The weather this morning was around 51*F, so not too cold (to me).
Also, a few weeks ago when I changed my oil, I noticed milky white stuff only on the bottom of the oil cap, and in the feed neck. The rest of my oil looked like perfect used oil. After I noticed the milky stuff, about 2-3 times a week I would clean the stuff out of the neck and off of the cap. Just recently, there hasn't been as much milky fluid. My coolant level has not changed since I marked it during the oil change. A few buddies have said it might be condensation, but it's never been like this before.
I guess my question is, is this something that could put my truck out of service if left untreated? I'm assuming it's not a spun bearing because the noise goes away, but is there a possibility coolant could be leaking into the case but stay the same level in the reservoir?
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My F150 at startup is reving real high, almost max rpm's, like the pedal is on the floor. What could be going on?
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I've got a 2003 ford f-150 with a 4.6l 150000 miles. when it is started the rpms are at 2000 for about a min. and a half then it drops to normal when its started cold. when started at operating temp. The rpms are at 2000 for about 30 to 45 sec then drop to normal. The iac, upper and lower intake gaskets, intake run controller valve, dfbe, low intake and shield, coolant temp. sensor, intake air temp. sensor, egr, egr regulator valve, maf, ecm have all been swapped out no vacuum leaks all line in good condition tps voltage reading of 0.84v...
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My 2003 F-150 knocks pretty bad on my early morning cold start ups. It only happens if it had set for a while. Its not a knock coming from the bottom end it sounds like its coming from the top end, cams cam followers... etc. I was wondering if I should be concerned. I am running 5-20 mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter. My truck always seems to use a half a quart to a quart between oil changes too. The truck only has 60,000 pretty mild miles on it.
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The other day I was driving down the freeway... My F150's heart started knocking... I am thinking of rebuilding it or I was thinking if I can find a good priced lightning 5.4 going with a swap.. If I did go with a swap what all would I need from the donor truck? I am guessing a rebuild would cost me around $2000.. Since I don't have the know how or the place to tempt it on my own.
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I have a 97' F150, 4x4, Auto trans, 5.4L Lariat. Power locks and windows. Auto locking hubs. It doesn't appear to have any theft deterrent system installed.
It has been sitting for some time. When I hook up the battery the headlights, dash lights, and wipers turn on and the horn starts blowing continuously.
Cycling the key in the ignition or door has no effect. Cycling the key to the start position does not engage the starter.
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So on a cold start I keep hearing this ticking noise. Not every time, but more often than not.
I have two thoughts:
1) Low oil pressure causing timing chain tensioners to allow slack in the timing chain. Oil pressure builds up after about 1 minute of driving.
2) Oil Restricter in the valve cover starving one side of the valve cover?
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I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L Triton. Despite being 10 yrs. old it's just passed the dealer warranty mileage about 80,000 miles. Due to a family situation it's been sitting idle for upwards of 2 or 3 weeks between startups.
When I do startup there's a puff of blue/geyish smoke, the engine idles rough for about 30 secs. and then everything smooths out and she runs normal.
I haven't noticed this issue before, I would add the temps here have been extremely cold the last few weeks. What direction do I point a mechanic in so he doesn't waste time or money on a diagnostic.
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New to owing a ford pickup. I bought a 2002 Ford F-150 lariat 4x4 as a project truck. I've always wanted a truck to mess around with, but once I got the truck home I noticed it had a knocking sound. It didn't sound like it came from the top of the engine so I checked the muffler first and found it had a 3" slit in it. I replaced it but the sound remains. I heard it could be lifters? Is that something I should mess with or not?
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97 f250 4.6l engine pegs the temp gauge after start-up. the oil pressure light comes on then after a few miles down the road anti-freeze blows out the pressure cap (15LB) then the temp goes down ,the oil light goes off and everything is normal. no its not the thermostat, i changed that and it still does it. whats up with that?
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I've recently begun experiencing a problem with my truck dying immediately upon start up. It's a 99 5.4 and it will act like it's starting normally but then will idle down and die. If I gas it to 4000-5000 rpm it will eventually return to normal idle and run fine. At first it was once a week and then every day, usually upon the second start of the day but today it happened twice and I suspect it will become more frequent. What to check that doesn't involve a Ford Dealer?
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We have a 2002 F-150 4.6L 4x4. The engine went bad and we bought a new engine (remanned ATK). Had this engine installed and a year later it was bad and was determined it was a manufacturer defect so they sent a replacement engine under warranty.
We had this new engine installed. The mechanic fired it up and it backfired through the intake. They claim that the compression is good, the fuel pressure is good, and the timing is correct. Can they check these things when the truck is not running? The mechanic is completely frustrated with the situation...
Everything I read leads to a timing issue but they say they checked it so before I go in there screaming I want to make sure it couldn't possibly be anything else...
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2003 Ranger develops a shrill chirp, then screech often but with little reason. Seems to happen most at speed. Belt looked good, idler pulley felt loose, changed idler, no luck. no drips at water pump, alternator seems fine. Could this be as sneaky as a fan clutch? If it could, how can I test it?
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