My 2000 F150 started knocking, it does this after I get up to speed and let off the gas a bit, it will know as I push on the gas again but if I push heavy on the gas it dose not knock, What could if be? By the way it is a hard knock not a pinging sound.
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 F-150 knocks pretty bad on my early morning cold start ups. It only happens if it had set for a while. Its not a knock coming from the bottom end it sounds like its coming from the top end, cams cam followers... etc. I was wondering if I should be concerned. I am running 5-20 mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter. My truck always seems to use a half a quart to a quart between oil changes too. The truck only has 60,000 pretty mild miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 4x4 5.4l with 105k miles. I started it up today to go to lunch and it made a knocking sound on start up that lasted maybe 20 seconds. So i shut it off and checked oil. All ok. Started it up again and it knocked but not as long as it did previously. I started to drive and higher in the rpm range before the trans shifts it makes the same knocking sound. Left off the pedal it goes away then rev it again it doesn't make the knock till around 2000rpm mark it I remember correctly. It makes the noise in all gears, parked or driving. It runs great, no power loss or misfire. Could it be a spark plug on the verge of blowing out or is it time for a new motor? I am going to look at it more tonight when I get off work.
View 2 RepliesThe other day I was driving down the freeway... My F150's heart started knocking... I am thinking of rebuilding it or I was thinking if I can find a good priced lightning 5.4 going with a swap.. If I did go with a swap what all would I need from the donor truck? I am guessing a rebuild would cost me around $2000.. Since I don't have the know how or the place to tempt it on my own.
View 3 RepliesNew to owing a ford pickup. I bought a 2002 Ford F-150 lariat 4x4 as a project truck. I've always wanted a truck to mess around with, but once I got the truck home I noticed it had a knocking sound. It didn't sound like it came from the top of the engine so I checked the muffler first and found it had a 3" slit in it. I replaced it but the sound remains. I heard it could be lifters? Is that something I should mess with or not?
View 8 RepliesI am going to start from the beginning because oftens times we don't provide all of the information that may be pertinent to the correct diagnosis or repair. It'll be kind of lengthy! It all started about 3 days ago when my wife told me that my truck was "shaking." I said, "ok, just drive the car til' I can look at it" The next morning, the I was able to look at the truck. I had a cylinder 8 misfire detected. I drove it for about 1 hour that day to and from work. I did this so I could see what what the "shaking" was. It was actually what I describe as a "shudder."
Anyways, I done a fuel pressure check and all was well. I took of the coil, tested it, it was fine. So, I took out the plug to inspect it. It was wet! Not drinched, just mildly damp. I dried it off, cleaned it off with carb cleaner and it fired right up no hesitation no nothing. No CEL light, no shaking, no shuddering. It ran perfectly normal. I let it warm up to speed and took it for a test drive around about 6 city blocks. All was well. So I took it on the highway for about a 2 mile stretch. I was givin' her some juice pretty hard to see if it would misfire. Upon acceleration I heard a screech. Now this is where it get's interesting.
The screech that I hear, I just related it to the belt because it's done it ALL the time. When I first bought the truck it squalled like a whipped puppy cause of a cheap belt. The good ol' bar of soap trick fixed that! But, ever since then, it upon shifting, or under acceleration it would screech then stop. So anyways, on the highway run, it screeched while I was accelerating. It did this from about 60mph-80mph. I then, turned around and came back home. By the time I got to the stoplight to turn off towards my house my oil light was on and the engine was knocking. Not a tap, a knock.
I slowly coasted home not going over 20mph and pulling it out of drive as much as I could. I get home, and I check the oil and there is nothing on the dipstick! WTF!? I always run Mobil1 Full synthetic and put it 6qts. It doesn't smoke, doesn't leak or nothing! So I freaked out and went and bought 2 qts of Valvoline Hi-Mi and poured it in. It brought up the hash marks and quieted the deep knock. Later that night after work, I done a full oil change and flush and put back in my Mobil1 Fully synthetic 5w20. It now knocks at startup, and smooths out to a tic. Then at idle, it sounds like a light knock. It appears that it goes away upon acceleration.
The knocking started very suddenly 2 days ago - but not after any unusual events, other work etc. Truck has 145 K, and otherwise starts & runs perfectly. Doesn't use oil.
I heard it from in the cab, windows closed. At first, thought it may be a rod bearing - but if so, not terribly loud. Didn't drive it any more after getting home. But starting it in the drive, the knocking was audible.
Then I discovered it * completely disappeared * several times, after shutting off engine, then restart a few seconds later. When that happens, absolutely no knocking at idle or reeving it up a bit. But it may return on the next 1 or 2 restarts, then disappear again.
Since the knocking * completely stopped * on some restarts, does that rule out a bad rod or main bearing?
I haven't seen oil gauge pressure fluctuation, whether it's knocking or not. The gauge is where it's always been - well above 1/2 way. But, the gauge also doesn't move when I rev it to around 2000 RPM (? may be normal not to move, after engine's already running?). When the knocking is happening, increasing RPMs also increases the knocking frequency.
Can't hear the knocking from top side of engine w/ hood open - even using rubber hose to my ear & moving it around. But (when) it knocks, can easily hear it inside the cab or under the truck.
From underneath, knocking is more in the center of truck, near the back of block / oil pan or tranny bell housing. I can't isolate the noise as more on one side of the block than the other.
Could the oil pump itself be making a knocking noise? The knocking is "similar to" a rod knocking, but doesn't seem quite as "hammer on metal" metallic.
There are no DTCs showing on my scanner. Only odd thing was, for "O2 Monitor Test," it showed "vehicle did not return data for any O2 monitor test." Though under the scanner "I/M Monitors," it shows O2 Sens Mon. "OK," and O2 Sens Htr "OK."
I have a 97 7.3 ... I've had it about 2 months now and now it wont start! It will start and idle for 2 seconds then start knocking and die! I had a buzz test ran on it and all is good. I also checked my Icp and checked my uvch harness with my multimeter. Before this it would run ok but seemed like it had a miss and a lack of power. On start up if i didn't have it plugged in it would smoke white smoke horribly. I am thinking maybe my IDM. I need my truck for work .... I had it hooked up to a scanner and it said faulty IDM.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 F-150 4.6 4X4. I had a knocking sound that sounded like a rod knocking but was coming from the bell housing. After some research, I found that it could be a cracked flex plate or bad torque converter. I bought and installed a new torque converter with no change. The flex plate didn't appear to have any damage but went ahead and replaced it with the same results. I actually started the engine by jumping the starter (with no transmission) and the sound was coming from the flex plate/dust cover. My question is do I need the dust cover? Or is it a bearing or something else inside the engine causing the flex plate to hit the dust cover?
View 3 Replies2001 F-150 4.2L automatic, 189k mikes. Gas pedal would do weird knocking/vibrating. It would do it at idle & under acceleration. Gas pedal would knock & sometimes slightly move or kick back at you. Felt like someone was lightly hitting it with a small hammer. Well there is not much to the gas pedal assembly; pedal, throttle cable & mounting bolts/plate. Looking under hood, a bracket from drivers side of motor was pushing back against firewall, which was pushing into gas pedal mounting bolts. I grabbed the bracket & it came off motor. Nothing else attached to bracket. Looks like it rusted off and was pinned between motor & firewall. Well, this fixed the gas pedal problems. But now i wonder what the bracket is & whats it suppose to hold??
View 3 RepliesI have had a noise in the front of the engine of my 2002 f150 4.6 for about 2 weeks. On my way home my oil light came on made a knocking noise and shut off. The engine would not start back starter would engage but not turn motor it was seized. i called a tow truck and had it towed home. The next day just out of curiosity I tried to start it. It fired up ran and built oil pressure. If the oil pump froze will that make it . Can the oil pump make the engine act seized up?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 4x4 4.6L Auto trans. 96,000 miles... I purchased it in Jan with 93,000. About a month ago it started making and occasional knocking noise coming from the engine, this noise was heard at idle in park and in drive. when I revved the motor it would go away but as the idle settle back down you could hear it again. the noise would go away as I was driving and come back with no rhyme or reason, I put a stethoscope on the engine and it seemed loudest under the oil pan. The oil gauge is up between 5/8 to 3/4. Fast forward to now, When I start it I hear a scraping almost grinding noise that resonated thru the cab it has the same intermittent characteristics. I think I am going to remove the serp belt, remove the trans inspection cover next and see what happens. Oh I did put a scan too on it, no codes but did notice 1 long term 02 sensor trim was staying around -.618 if I remember.
View 11 RepliesI have a 98 F-150 which has a loud knocking at the passenger side valve cover. I am not a mechanic but thought it was a rocker arm knocking. I dropped some oil from the oil pan and did not see and metal shavings. I added some mystery oil but the knocking continued.Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled to a mechanic to check for the problem. He said the oil ports are clogged and oil can not get to the cam shaft and the cam shaft bearings are probably causing the knocking. He said there is no way to fix this problem and I will have to replace the motor.
I called another mechanic and described what the other mechanic described. The 2nd mechanic said it would require a complete tear down of the motor and would be cheaper to replace the motor. I recently bought this truck just to use for hunting and around town since it already has 198k miles on it.
Is there any way to clean the gunk from the oil ports? The truck will still run but just has the loud knocking so I don't let it run for more that a couple minutes. I have been reading many opinions for sludge blocking the oil passages and am considering removing the valve cover gasket and filling with diesel and let sit for 24 hours then repeat then put in fresh oil and filter. Maybe this will clean the blocked passages.
The last couple days my truck (1997 f150 4.6l) has been having starting issues. At first it would just turn over and not start then the battery would die. So i bought a new battery and yesterday now its starts sometimes but when trying to start it while its ttuning over it stops then starts turning and starts up. Then i drive wherever I am going when i get back in to start there's nothing.
Its not turning over at all but when i turn the key there is a loud single knocking noise coming from behind the dash near the passenger floor vent. Actually there ate two noise from the same area, one when i initially trun the key and another when i release the key. But after just sitting there doing this it will finally turn over and start. What this is, there are no codes being thrown besides my dreaded P0401 which i cant seem to get rid of either. Ive changed every part that has to do with the egr system and cleaned the throttle body replaced vacuum lines and still the code.
I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
View 2 RepliesThis started about a month ago. The truck surges at any speed as long as the gas pedal is at a static position. There are no codes. I have replaced the fuel filter air cleaner cleaned the maf and did a ton of reading on this issue. Is it the tps? The tps voltage does not fluctuate any when it surges. Maf,? Should be throwing a code right? Same as the egr valve. What am I missing?
View 8 Replies2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
1999 F150 has a tremble or vibration between 27 and 40 MPH it does it in any gear but only between these speeds. I thought to begin with it might be a slight misfire, but seems like if that was the cause it would happen at any speed...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 f-150 4x4 that has only high fan speed for a/c heater. Speeds 1-2-3- no longer exist. Is it a switch or a control module? Also, the door code for the rear differential is 19; is that limited slip?
View 8 RepliesI have a 99 f150 with a 4.2 manual with four wheel drive I need to replace the speed sensor in the transfer case it looks a lot like the one in the rear end I've called the auto parts stores and they show nothing. What sensor I can use ? I did find one on rock auto that said it was for the transfer case but after looking into there part I found it was for a automatic ...
View 1 RepliesAbout 3 days ago I noticed my engine RPM was around 250 higher than usual. Usually my truck idles around 550-600 rpm (I know this is low). Anyway, yesterday it threw the P1506 "IAC over Speed Error" Code. It is idling very rough, shifting weird, but does crank up fine.
My truck is now at 93,000 miles and I just cleaned the IAC at 87,000 miles due to the common no start condition. I guess I am going to get a new IAC now since another code came up.
Well, my question is it came up with two other codes also:
P0171 - System too Lean, Bank No. 1
P0174 - System too Lean, Bank No. 2
Do you think the P1506 (IAC Code) made the O2 Sensor codes show up or is it really the O2 Sensors? I just changed my two upstream O2 Sensors around 90,000 miles. Should I get a new IAC or try to clean it again?