Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Keyhole Broken On Driver Side
Sep 11, 2006
So I went to the movies the other night and come back out to see that my truck was broken into. Nothing was taken, so what were they doing? Any ways they broke the keyhole on the drivers side. It has been pushed all the way into the door. Assuming I have to replace this, how much or what will be involved to do so?
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I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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Having an issue with my 97 f150 its a 4x4 with 4.6L engine the issue is my driver side window keeps going down by itself. I changed the switch and relay for the power windows and still doing same thing?
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I have a 97 expedition It started a month ago crossing the border, I stopped at customs booth drivers side window would not go down. During the next couple of days the drivers side window would go down by itself, and I would have to bring the window back up. I have done alot of research on line everyone was telling me it was the GEM Module.
The window switch is good and the window regulator is good. Brought to my neighborhood mechanic, he said he was 90% sure that it was the GEM Module, he even said that he was tapping on the GEM Module and the window would go down on it's own. I decided to order a GEM Module online to fit my vehicle, received it on Saturday, installed it. [found no moisture around module] Same Problem, window would not go down. Now I have the drivers side motor unplugged from the switch.
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1998 f150 4x4 the drivers window is stuck up. It clicks by the up button but not the down button. The pass window works fine by both buttons, the door locks work fine. Took out the switch it tests with a ohm meter fine. The switch has power to it. I took out the window motor jumpered it to the battery and it works in both directions. Manually ran the window up and down and it moves freely. I swapped the relays under the dash and everything operates the same. I'm not sure where to go next for trouble shooting this problem.
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So I have a 97 f150 with a 4.2. the driver side header has a hole in it. Any tip or trick on pulling that bad boy off without busting the studs? ow ya she has 352k on her, I am guessing those nuts wont want to move...
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I have a 2000 f150 4.6 that would not run on bank2 ( the drivers side), even though the injectors and coils are all firing.While I was troubleshooting the problem I notice if you unplug the camshaft sensor and restart the truck it would then run on bank2, but the idle is rough.Can the PCM be the problem here. The only dtc codes are p1000, there are no misfire code at all, and it dose not show a misfire on the scantool data so I am lost.
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Found a related thread but ....a year later and no update? [URL] .....
Anyhow, today my 97 F150 XLT became possessed and the DS window started coming down by itself at random. Make for an exciting ride when the weather is in the teens!
My first thought was the wires at the door but it's been too cold to dig into it today. Will look when it warms up a bit. I need to pull out the manuals but don't think the PW should go through the GEM?
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I have a 2002 F-150 SC and the drivers side window quit working yesterday. All the other windows work fine and I can't see where anything else is not working. The only other thing that quit prior to this window problem was the cruise control quit a while back.
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Everything was fine with my 2000 F-150 until a few weeks ago when I went to open the driver's side pocket door and it would not open. Felt like the latch was releasing but would not open. I went around to the passenger's side pocket door to open it: SAME PROBLEM! This makes no sense; these two doors had worked fine, they operate independently, and I have confirmed with Ford dealers that there is no safety lock feature that may have been activated. Of course, the only remaining options appear to me either my tearing the doors apart, or worse yet paying someone else for the privilege.
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I've got a 1997 F-250 that as soon as you put it in gear to go forward, the doors lock as is the norm on these "new" vehicles. My complaint is that when you stop an get out, the drivers side unlocks, BUT the passenger side doesn't. THEN invariably I go around to get something out of the passenger side and its LOCKED. That's when my blood pressure goes into orbit. A trip to my dealer yielded no cigar. He stated that some models could be tricked into unlocking, but not this one.
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I'm trying to figure out why my truck sits about an 1 1/4" lower on the driver's side. I went around with a tape measure and checked and both the front and back of the truck sit lower than the passenger side. I actually can feel it when driving, feels like it wants to tip over when I'm turning right. Could it just be worn shocks? What else should I look for? All four tires have the same pressure in them also.
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I have a 97 f150 4.6 and I recently noticed a lot of tranny fluid behind my driver side tire. It looks like its a line coming from just underneath my radiator. What line this could be/how to replace? I was hold it was my tranny coolant line I believe but I can't remember..
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower.
I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower. I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
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I had my front driver side wheel bearing blow on me, out of nowhere, while doing about 70mph on my '03 Supercrew 2wd. it really destroyed my spindle and rotor. i replaced everything from the spindle out (rotor,pad,caliper,caliper mounts, bearings,etc). I packed the bearing really good and put it all back together. Well, it happened again, same thing. Doing about 70 and it just blew out of nowhere. Why it could be happening??
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Driving home yesterday I noticed a grinding sound from the driver side rear of the truck. Had a look at the drum brake today and found that the cable to the adjusting lever had snapped and pieces had jammed making the grinding noise. I need to replace the cable and probably have that drum surfaced, but the pads look good.
On the passenger side the hardware is all intact but the shoes look as if they have "spider" cracks everywhere, still lots of shoe left though. What might be causing the cracks on the shoes, and do these need to be replaced? How to do rear drum brakes? (1997 4x4)
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I have a 2001 F-150 Supercab with the V-6. This past weekend it developed some strange noise best described as a rattle or vibration that sounds like it is coming from under the driver's side dash possibly somewhere right behind the instrument cluster. May even sounds a little like a "grinding" noise - like two plastic gears not agreeing with each other, but I don't know of anything under there that could make that noise. I have opened the hood and listened from there with my wife pressing the gas to make the noise start, but can't hear anything from outside the truck.
It is not constant, but starts as soon as I give it a little gas, even before I put it in drive. It's a little worse when it is in drive. I have turned the air on and off, turned the steering wheel, pressed the brake, etc, and it doesn't appear to be related to anything obvious. I have stuck my hand under the dash and can't find anything obviously loose.
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My wife is talking to someone about purchasing a 1998 4.6 4x4 EB Expedition. The owner says the only issue is a tick coming from the driver's side head. He claims the shop told him it was "just a cam stator". Now, say what you will, but I've dabbled just enough with mod motors (2v and 3v, 4.6's and 5.4's) to feel like I'd rather stick to old pushrods. I've never heard of a "cam stator" on a 2v 4.6. I also realize that stator is a word that gets tossed around a bit by people who don't fully understand what it is.
Now, this is a relatively high mileage engine (something like 220k I think) so I know it could be a whole slew of things from cracked/leaking exhaust mani, lifters, timing chain, etc. But, in all my searching, "2v 4.6 cam stator" keeps leading me to people troubleshooting pushrod distributors, 3v VVT troubleshooting, and alternator related posts. Is this such a thing, what this shop may have been trying to refer to? He claims it's done it for about 5 years now, and runs perfectly fine. I'm leaning towards lifter, but the truck is 3 hours away so I haven't got to check it out yet....
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