This happened about a year ago when I quickly started and shut it right off. I googled something and I found a sequence, procedure. Something about open door open switch wait etc, it worked started right up. Now I been stuck for 2 days looking and can't find it.All I have is regular metal key. 1997 f150....
View 6 RepliesBattery is fine, turn the key and nothing (no clicks, groans, nada). At first it only did this when the engine was warm, wait 30 min and it would struggle as if the battery was weak but it would start. Had battery tested and it was fine. Now, it will also do this when the engine is cold. If I remove the connections to the starter and reconnect them, it starts right up and works normally hot or cold but at some point, same problem.
View 8 RepliesOn my 97, just had a new engine installed. Suddenly the Lo presser AC switch died. Now the Start Solenoid (I think) just clicks sometimes. Is this Solenoid on the Firewall the Start Solenoid?
View 6 RepliesSo I 2003 6.0 F350 that is a Dually. Been sitting in my yard for about two years now. I turn the key it just clicks and it doesn't crank. The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the whit The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the wire on the engine bay. It cranked for a while and that started ran rough. Then it just died. I did not start again. I did this during winter so the engine have time to cool off it was about below freezing. Done this multiple times and drove up and down in my backyard but not on the road. What could be wrong with it. Either way I put in diesel 911 and more fuel but and I change the filters with Motorcraft OEM filters. Sure that the caps were right.
View 14 RepliesI got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
Just picked up a 1999 F-150 XL, 4.2L V6, 5-Speed. Spent half the day rewiring the headlights back to factory as a previous owner did a bunch of wiring that made absolutely no sense. (Foglights or KC lights?). Anyway, works great with the exception that the headlights turn on when I turn the selector to just parking lights. I removed all but the factory wires under the hood. I haven't been behind the dash yet to check the headlight switch and I was hoping to avoid doing so. A fuse or relay that may be causing the issue? I don't have a service manual yet so I haven't been able to identify all the fuses under the hood.
View 2 RepliesSometimes when I try to start it it clicks and I loose all power , but when quick tern key 2,3,4 times it will start but then I need to feather gas till I can get it to idle. This happens first start of the day or cold. I put a new starter in, alternated is two years old .
View 4 RepliesJust fixed the bad wheel bearing and a bad ball join on the passenger side. Now the only noise left is the clicks sound when I make sharp turn. Regular turns are normal. CV boots are good. What is wrong?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 f150 fx4. Drove it home and parked it. Next morning wouldn't turn over. When trying to start the starter relay clicks but no noise from starter. Battery light and wrench light are on. I thought maybe battery was low but when I hooked up charger gauge showed good battery. What do I do next? Also there is no "theft" light...at all not even when I first turn key on.
View 1 Replies2000 Ex 5.4 v8
Had 2 coils go bad last week. Got them replaced. Today I am on the turnpike doing 70 and my oil light comes on and oil pressure drops all the way. No engine noises and temp is OK so I coast to the next exit. Get off and go to the gas station in the corner. Turn the truck off...
Wait a few minutes, when I go turn it back on it wont start. The motor wont even turn. It just clicks.
I notice smoke coming from the wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter so my brother comes and gets me and we go to the nearest auto part store and buy a new relay.
Replace it and try to start it, same thing. Just clicks and smoke. My brother gets under the truck and taps the starter as I try to start it, no go. I am fearing the engine locked up. But no engine noises, clicks or clacks or anything. Battery is fine as well. Any thoughts on what else I can try?
Battery tested good, tried jumping it as well with cables and with portable pack.
I hear two clicks under the hood (NOT a continuous type click you hear when the battery is dead). The first seems to be up near the passenger fender well when the key is turn to the start position, the second click seems to be down under the motor near the passenger side (near the starter I assume, couldn't tell very well) when the key is RELEASED from the start position. The motor doesn't budge, I don't see any belts flinch or pulleys move to indicate that the starter is engaging. I don't hear anything that sounds like a starter engaging to me.
If not, where the starter solenoid is on this thing? is it separate like the other older ford's I've owned or is it now on the starter? Is there any fuse-able links that could cause this? Wiring diagram? Is there a way to jump the solenoid like in the old school days (e.g. with a screwdriver or wrench)? would like to get this home without towing it or fixing what is really wrong with it in the parking lot.
It's in negative to single digit temps here in Indy now, I fired it up in the morning in negative temps, drove it work. Came out to go home, and now this. So something happened between this morning and now and it's not the battery.
My starter clicks once when i turn the key, yet when i brought it in to have it tested it passed twice. I took one of the spark plugs out and pulled on the belt thinking maybe some antifreeze got in a cylinder and saw the piston moving up and down so i its not seized.
View 1 RepliesIt is a pretty simple problem, but on a few occasions the "clicking" noise that goes along with the turn signal blinking will not stop after turning off the signal. It does not click at the normal cadence. It erratically clicks on and off and will continue to do so for 3-5 minutes. Neither the turn signals nor the indicator lights blink, but the clicking continues in the dash. Turning the signals back on puts the clicking into normal speed, but once the signal is turned off it goes back to crazy speed. It only happens once every couple months, but it is really annoying.
View 4 RepliesMy 1997 F150 with the 5.4 engine has 167,300 miles. My wife drove it to work the other day and when she went to come home the truck would not turn over. The starter would engage the flywheel but would not turn the engine over. I had it towed home and I pulled the starter. Advance Auto bench checked it for me and said the starter was fine, only drawing 36 amps. I have also verified the cabling from the battery and starter relay is fine.
So here is some history up to this point. Over the past four months the battery light would come on and off. I had the battery (only 8 months old) and the alternator check and both tested fine. At one time the check engine light came on and the code indicated a miss fire on the #3 cylinder. I pulled the plug (new platium plugs at 120k miles) which looked fine and reconnected everything. Since I disconnected the neg. terminal of the battery the engine code cleared. Once in a while the engine would sputter and run rough at 40 - 45 mph, but run fine at slower or higher speeds.
Since I had the starter off I used a pry bar to try to manually turn the flywheel, seems to turn in one direction but not the other. I have also tried to turning the engine over by hand via the belt and putting a socket on crankshaft pully bolt. I can not get the engine to turn over. So in my reading on the internet it seems like I might have a hydrolock. I have not lost any antifreeze that I can detect and I have not seen any white smoke coming from the exhaust. From what I'm reading there are two types of hydrolocks, one caused by antifreeze and the other caused by a open fuel injector.
Does what I am describing sound like a hydrolock and what is the best way to diagnose if it is caused by a leaking gasket or injector? Should I pull a couple of plugs on each side and try to crank the truck?
Got this weird problem that the turn signal switch clicks by itself, randomly. And it gets worse these couple days. So I decide to take it apart to take a look.
Cleaned it up and it works like new now.
Took some photos .....
I have a 2000 Chevy S10 (4-cylinder, rear wheel drive, the most basic model). A few months ago, the truck wouldn't start. The starter clicked a single time when I turned the key, and the lights on the radio came on, but nothing else happened. Several hours later, I attempted to start the truck again, and it started just fine. I disconnected the battery and found some corrosion on the positive connection (not that bad), and I assumed it was because of a bad connection.
I cleaned it and haven't had any problems since....until last night. The truck once again wouldn't start at a gas station. One click from the starter but nothing else happened. I cleaned out the battery connection again, and the positive terminal was again slightly corroded, but it wasn't that bad. The truck started after I cleaned out the connection and it got me home, but wouldn't start again after I shut it off. Can a bad battery cause repeated corrosion or possibly be the problem? I'm hoping it's just the battery, but I don't want to get a new one until I'm sure...
A couple of weeks ago my truck wouldn't start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and when that didn't work I took it to a mechanic. At first it wouldn't start for him either. After move the truck inside he tried to crank it again and it fired right up. He said he didn't want to replace something if he wasn't sure what it was. Today it wouldn't start again. I bought some noid lights as suggested on line and tested one of the injector connectors and it did not light up. I realize that the injectors are not getting the needed "pulse". Whole thinking about what to do next I noticed that there was a broken wire. The wire is going to a really small looking box of some sort that is attached to the engine close to the injector at the front of the engine. What the wire is for and I am really not sure what to do next. I will try to upload a picture...
View 13 RepliesI'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
View 4 RepliesI have a 01 f150 with the 5.4. when it starts it takes a minute or two to do so.. After I shut it off and try to restart it won't unless I turn the key on and wait. I checked the pressure and when idling its running about 28 soon as the key is turned off it goes to 0. Is my pump bad??
View 8 RepliesIf I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
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