Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Judders Under Acceleration From Side To Side When Put It In 4WD
Mar 4, 2014
I have a 02 Screw 5.4 triton. When in 2 wheel drive its fine under acceleration but when I put it in 4by it judders under acceleration from side to side. Like when you have strong side wind. It doesn't pull to any side when it does this and doesn't do it in 2 wheel drive. Also it is on the fly 4by but I always park and change it in 'P', I had to drop it back into 2by on the fly and it didn't disconnect till I stopped and repeated the process.
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So today my 97 f150, 2wd 5.4L automatic has started giving me some troubles. The truck has 291k miles on it, i bought it with 260k miles on it. About a week ago the truck overheated due to a busted radiator side tank, it was promptly replaced the next day and i have had no problems with it since, till today. Sometimes when you start it it will stumble alive like its out of gas, give it a sec and it settles down. When you get going, its a little down on power, i know it has 291k miles on it but it pulled hard. Its OK till you get to about 35-40, when it just stops accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it barely went above 40, if you ease into it slowly it will slowly accelerate till about 45, drop down to 40 and then go like normal.
When i changed the radiator i lost about a cup maybe a cup and a half of transmission fluid, i have gotten time to replace it but i didn't think that small amount of fluid would dramatically change performance, the fluid also looked almost new. The only other things i have done to the truck is some brake work and replace the alternator. I have no knowledge of what the previous over did or did not do. It is not throwing any code, and the OD light/button is broken, i think on newer rangers the OD light would would brink indicating transmissions problems, not sure if its the same on these trucks.
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I know this might sound completely petty (so much so that I daren't ask the service centre about it!), but the air vent cover on the driver's side has started making a thnk and judders when opening. When closing, it also closes more slowly than the others.
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I've done a lot of front end replacement on my 99 this year and have it better than its been in a long time. The truck still seems to wander a bit, but that's going to be hard to nail down and it's not that bad really. But something that concerns me is it always feels more unstable over bumps- and I've noticed that going over a small hill at speed when the truck feels light, that the wheel pulls a little to the right, and then when the weight shifts back down the steering wheel turns to the left. If I hold the wheel lightly with my fingertips, the wheel will rock from side to side and back to normal. However in traffic when you have a firm grip and don't let the wheel move on its own then the truck shifts more on the road. Quick bumps don't have as much affect as small hills do.
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I have a 2000 Impala with 215000 miles and it keeps on running. It has developed a side-to-side shutter and only happens during accelleration. It smooths out once I stop accellerating. I have had a left rear wheel bearing replaced hoping this would solve it. Not so much. It feels like it is coming from the rear of the car. There is no movement in the steering wheel. Could this be motor mounts?
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I have a 97 ford explorer sport with new tierods ball jonts control arms sway bar end links and bushings n I am having an issue with the steering its been in for alignment too n it pulls side to side....
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 4x4 extended cab the passenger side head light is very dim try and turn on high beams and it does not react while on low beam the high beam indicator in the cab is on. Where can I look or what is the common problem for this.
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Its only on the right side. When i push down on the right side, its really loud but when i push on the left side it doesn't squeak. It sounds its really loud. When i turn the wheel it sounds like an old door in a scary movie being closed. Is it my ball joints?
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Having an issue with my 97 f150 its a 4x4 with 4.6L engine the issue is my driver side window keeps going down by itself. I changed the switch and relay for the power windows and still doing same thing?
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I have a 97 expedition It started a month ago crossing the border, I stopped at customs booth drivers side window would not go down. During the next couple of days the drivers side window would go down by itself, and I would have to bring the window back up. I have done alot of research on line everyone was telling me it was the GEM Module.
The window switch is good and the window regulator is good. Brought to my neighborhood mechanic, he said he was 90% sure that it was the GEM Module, he even said that he was tapping on the GEM Module and the window would go down on it's own. I decided to order a GEM Module online to fit my vehicle, received it on Saturday, installed it. [found no moisture around module] Same Problem, window would not go down. Now I have the drivers side motor unplugged from the switch.
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1998 f150 4x4 the drivers window is stuck up. It clicks by the up button but not the down button. The pass window works fine by both buttons, the door locks work fine. Took out the switch it tests with a ohm meter fine. The switch has power to it. I took out the window motor jumpered it to the battery and it works in both directions. Manually ran the window up and down and it moves freely. I swapped the relays under the dash and everything operates the same. I'm not sure where to go next for trouble shooting this problem.
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So I have a 97 f150 with a 4.2. the driver side header has a hole in it. Any tip or trick on pulling that bad boy off without busting the studs? ow ya she has 352k on her, I am guessing those nuts wont want to move...
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I tried to change my filter today and I couldn't get the outlet side off after removing the clip, is there a trick to it.
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So I went to the movies the other night and come back out to see that my truck was broken into. Nothing was taken, so what were they doing? Any ways they broke the keyhole on the drivers side. It has been pushed all the way into the door. Assuming I have to replace this, how much or what will be involved to do so?
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I'm trying to find out why my truck has a grinding noise on the passenger side when my truck first starts driving for the first 1/4 mile. It stops after that or when I apply the brakes. Do I have a brake sticking or something more serious?
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I have a 2000 f150 4.6 that would not run on bank2 ( the drivers side), even though the injectors and coils are all firing.While I was troubleshooting the problem I notice if you unplug the camshaft sensor and restart the truck it would then run on bank2, but the idle is rough.Can the PCM be the problem here. The only dtc codes are p1000, there are no misfire code at all, and it dose not show a misfire on the scantool data so I am lost.
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Found a related thread but ....a year later and no update? [URL] .....
Anyhow, today my 97 F150 XLT became possessed and the DS window started coming down by itself at random. Make for an exciting ride when the weather is in the teens!
My first thought was the wires at the door but it's been too cold to dig into it today. Will look when it warms up a bit. I need to pull out the manuals but don't think the PW should go through the GEM?
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I have a 2002 F-150 SC and the drivers side window quit working yesterday. All the other windows work fine and I can't see where anything else is not working. The only other thing that quit prior to this window problem was the cruise control quit a while back.
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The right side mirror on my 97 f150 kind of sticks a little when I adjust it. Are there some gears or something that I could use a dry lubricant on, before I replace it?
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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My 2001 F150 4.6 threw the #3 plug on the passenger side while going down the road at 65 mph. It threaded back in and tightened up to make it the last 7 miles home. I have read that Time serts are the best option but I need this truck daily at work. Has anyone tried using the Heli Coil system as a temporary fix? I am going to order the Time Set kit but since I need the truck now, I was wondering if it were possible to pick up a Heli Coil and insert it until my Time Sert kit arrives?
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