Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Intermittent No Start Gradually Became More Frequent
Jul 5, 2015
Its the 5.4 ....its been an ongoing problem...first it wiuld happen once a month starting maybe a year ago. Turn the key off and try again and it would start up easily. Gradually became more frequent...maybe a couple times a week now and sometimes taking more than one attempt. It died on me while driving last week...started easily again. Today after driving i parked it and a few minutes later it would not start even after 10 or so attempts....waited 10 or so minutes and started right...killed it and restarted 5 times easily. Brought it home killed it and it would not restart.
Now its starting again......so i cant troubleshoot something that is not working. I ruled out fuel pump/regulator because it is either running good or not at all and also it would not start immediately after killing it. There should be engage pressure in the lines to do something but its either a start or no start situation. Its not showing codes either....so I am guessing that rules out sensors....? ......so i guess something is causing a no spark or a no fuel inj. Pulse......... I have a cam sensor i bought a few weeks ago and never put on trying to aviid being stranded.
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The Truck...
1999 F-150 Supercab
170K miles
4.6 Litre
Automatic Trans
The Problem... About every other day, I try to start the truck, and it doesn't fire at all. It cranks fine, everything seems right, but no start.
What I've done...
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay.. (no luck)
Sprayed Starting Fluid In and Cranked... It Fires On Fluid.
Other info...
This problem never lasts long, and the problem mysteriously fixes itself after no more than an hour.
This problem has occurred both when the truck was warm and completely cold.
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01 supercrew 4.6. Have had intermittent no start. The first few times it did start with a jump. Cranks fine but I thought the battery was weak. Replaced battery, same issue. 40 psi gas pressure at the fuel rail with analog gage. Theft light blinks with battery inserted. Theft light not illuminated while cranking. Battery light flashes while cranking. Battery is brand-new and charged. Opened and closed inertia switch several times to check.
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I recently aquired an f150 from a tenant, it's an 2003 with 219k, v6. When you first start it all the dash lights and needles go berserk and it will only run for a second, if you press the trip button over and over until eventually the lights are solid it starts and runs fine. If you disconnect the battery for a while it will also start and run fine. What this is? Guy also said the intake runner control valve is stuck open, where is that at?
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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2002 Ranger XLT auto 3.0 will not start after it has run awhile, Was very intermittent at first sometimes six months would pass, sits for and hour or so and would start right up and run great. Lately it is becoming more frequent. Good fuel press, good spark, I have changed the coil pack, fuel relay, filter , am at a loss.
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I have a 2012 Camry Hybrid 4 cylinder. I like the car but it has a knock on cold start. I have around 12000 mi on the car. I noticed the knock after a few months of ownership. It does not do it every time. Usually happens after sitting overnight and in colder weather. I live in Minnesota so it gets cold. The car is always garaged. It started as a knock for around 15-20 seconds. Now it seems to be more frequent and lasts for a longer duration, but it eventually smooths out and runs fine. The noise does not sound good. Sounds like there is no oil in the motor and it vibrates and shakes some until it finally smooths out. I just think this sound should not be from a Toyota, with its advanced engine design.
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So, I've been having cold start issues for a couple of years now especially when temps get below 25 or so. It started with virtually no issues until temps got into the 20's but got to the point this year where it run a little rough at startup even in the summer. Once ECT gets up around 140* it runs pretty good.
I took it to a diesel shop last year and was told I had 1 bad injector and a bad glow plug. I couldn't afford to do the work, so I waited.
Now after researching this site, I'm more inclined to think it may just be the FICM. I've seen scangauge numbers in the low 20's up to 48.5. On cold morning FCM will usually start in the low 30's and gradually work up to upper 40's. The batteries were both replaced 2 years ago, but I probably should give them a load test. The alternator voltages vary from 11.0 to 12.5 when cold and 12.5 to 14 once warmed up. I have noticed that the AC blower will slow down a little when I sit at a red light, and then pick up again when taking off. I don't notice it with headlights or anything else.
According to Bismarc's spreadsheet, alternator numbers seem to be in the acceptable range, but I don't want to get a new FICM and fry it with a bad alternator. I can get the alternator or the FICM now, but if I need to do both at once I'll need to wait a bit longer.
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2001 F150 ... I'm having trouble with my truck starting after its been running for awhile and then I shut it off.... I have to let it sit for a few min. Before I can crank it again and it will start. I was driving down the road and it just died on me the other day that's what started all this...
The fuel pump and filter was already replaced and I just replaced the cam and crank sensors ... but its still acting up...... I'm not sure where to turn next... No check engine light ..... I have a scan tool and checked for soft codes but nothing.
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I have a 2001 F150 with the 4.6 engine. I get an intermittent drop in the idle from 700 RPM to about 500 RPM. The computer catches it quickly and brings the idle back up. It might drop several times and clear up or it might not happen at all. Seems only to happen on a hot engine, never when cold and in gear, if in park or neutral seems to idle ok. Changed the idle air control valve but no different. Runs fine except for the idle dropping when stopped.
Never get a check engine light, and no codes from the computer when I had it checked. Could this be the vapor management valve turning on?
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Ok I've been getting a intermittent misfire on my truck for soem time now. It ran great all winter but now its getting hotter it intermittently misses. Last summer I replaced all the coils. And the coil inquestion now was replaced since last summer with Motor Craft Coil. I have red the check Engine Codes a d here is the freeze Fram data
DTC :P0351
Fuel System I : Closed Loop
Calculated Load: 71.37%
Engine Coolent temp: 199.4 F
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 : 3.91%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 0.78%
Short term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 6.25%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 0.78%
Engine RPM :1613.25
Vehicle Speed Sensor: 4.35 MPH
What might be my problem? Since The Short Tem Fuel trim from bank 1 and Bank two are vastly different could that mean my fuel injector is not working correctly?
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Over the last few days my f150 has developed a really annoying squeal that's intermittent. I can never really predict when Ill hear it. Usually I first hear it when I am accelerating to a speed greater than 30 or 40 mph. And it will continue if i keep my foot on the gas or if i slowly hit the brakes. Usually the only way it will stop is if I slow down to under roughly 30 or if i hit the brakes. pretty hard.
But sometimes Ill hear it at various speeds just for a second or two, usually when I am turning or when I am decelerating by taking my foot off the gas and not braking. again its hard to predict. It sounds really similar to a car with squeaky brakes. and just like squeaky brakes, you can hear the noise slow down as the f150 slows down. but again it doesnt only happen when i hit the brakes. I dont know what it is.
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The knocking started very suddenly 2 days ago - but not after any unusual events, other work etc. Truck has 145 K, and otherwise starts & runs perfectly. Doesn't use oil.
I heard it from in the cab, windows closed. At first, thought it may be a rod bearing - but if so, not terribly loud. Didn't drive it any more after getting home. But starting it in the drive, the knocking was audible.
Then I discovered it * completely disappeared * several times, after shutting off engine, then restart a few seconds later. When that happens, absolutely no knocking at idle or reeving it up a bit. But it may return on the next 1 or 2 restarts, then disappear again.
Since the knocking * completely stopped * on some restarts, does that rule out a bad rod or main bearing?
I haven't seen oil gauge pressure fluctuation, whether it's knocking or not. The gauge is where it's always been - well above 1/2 way. But, the gauge also doesn't move when I rev it to around 2000 RPM (? may be normal not to move, after engine's already running?). When the knocking is happening, increasing RPMs also increases the knocking frequency.
Can't hear the knocking from top side of engine w/ hood open - even using rubber hose to my ear & moving it around. But (when) it knocks, can easily hear it inside the cab or under the truck.
From underneath, knocking is more in the center of truck, near the back of block / oil pan or tranny bell housing. I can't isolate the noise as more on one side of the block than the other.
Could the oil pump itself be making a knocking noise? The knocking is "similar to" a rod knocking, but doesn't seem quite as "hammer on metal" metallic.
There are no DTCs showing on my scanner. Only odd thing was, for "O2 Monitor Test," it showed "vehicle did not return data for any O2 monitor test." Though under the scanner "I/M Monitors," it shows O2 Sens Mon. "OK," and O2 Sens Htr "OK."
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So my truck started to intermittently misfire about a month ago . I changed the spark plugs wires at first and it seemed to get better but it still had a misfire . I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils and the misfire is still there . Up until the other day it was a noticeable issue but still drivable with . On my way home from work it got alot worse and started to misfire any time I tried to accelerate and now is noticeable at idle now as well.
I checked the fuel injectors resistance and they are about 14.8 ohms . I am not getting any codes for a misfire . I tried to pull the fuel injector connectors to try to find the source of the misfire but could noticeable change in engine rpm. Where to go from here and what I should check first? Would a clogged fuel filter cause something like this ?
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I found no heat last week in my 01 F150. The AC was cold but no blower. The heat was there but no blower. I replaced the blower motor resistor. Result: i believe a FEW of the speeds worked when turning the fan speed switch...but was intermittent. It would blow L, M, H, then nothing. I jiggled the know on the dash mounted switch and heard it on/off, on/off the motor as I jiggled. I DID notice that when I disco'd the connector off the resistor the HIGH speed worked. Is the switch on the dash perhaps crusty ? Or should I be looknig at the motor itself.
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1998 F150 4.6 automatic.
Had problems with battery light. Was intermittent. Battery cables wouldn't stay tight, replaced them, light stayed off. Light back on now, constant. Battery reads 12.5ish off, 14.3ish running under load (lights, AC, etc.).
When truck is started, even cold, it doesn't rev up the RPM's and then die down to idle speed. It just goes straight to around 550rpm and surges slightly up and down between there and 650ish. Can these be related?
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I have an '03 Screw which I've noticed now has an intermittent muted beep coming from somewhere in the interior of the vehicle. I've had the truck for 9 years, and this is the first time I've noticed it. It seems to come randomly but no more frequent than 2-3 minutes apart. As I am typically driving the vehicle, I cannot stop to locate the source. It reminds me of the low battery beep on my Blackberry, but like it's tucked away in the console or glove box (I checked - it's not the BB...).
I have a recurring SES light which is attributed to cylinders 1&4 misfire (discussed at length in a different thread), but I don't know what would cause this beep. I have read about the 5x5 "airbag light" beep, but this doesn't seem consistent with that. It does not seem like a repeating pattern - just a single beep, which sometimes varies slightly in length but is consistent in pitch and volume.
It's another thing in the growing list of gripes that are pushing me toward selling it. Just afraid of something big coming along unexpectedly... trying to manage the little things so they don't turn into that big one.
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1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
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I have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
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I have a Ford F150, 2003. I replaced the switch above the master brake cylinder just a few months ago soon after I bought the truck. I put 17" rims and new tires on my truck and now my cruise control works intermittently. It worked fine before then.
Can there be a connection between the intermittent failure of the Cruise and the larger rims and tires? I know my speedometer is off by about 4 MPH at 55 but I expected that.
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I have a 2000 f150 lariat. Mo problem started about 2 weeks ago. Around town its fine but when I go over 50 mph it feels like I'm driving down the rumble strips on the highway and after a couple miles it just smooths out and its fine! Yesterday I went on the interstate and it did the same but this time I ran up to 85 and the vibration stopped.
I had another motor put in about 2 months ago, #4, and he changed my rear u joint as well. I replaced the rear passenger side wheel bearing a couple months ago but there seemed like a little play in the axle still but not bad. I've been to the dealer and a few other mechanics but it doesn't do it all the time and they couldn't find what is wrong.
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