Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Intermittent Misfire When Weather Getting Hotter
May 8, 2013
Ok I've been getting a intermittent misfire on my truck for soem time now. It ran great all winter but now its getting hotter it intermittently misses. Last summer I replaced all the coils. And the coil inquestion now was replaced since last summer with Motor Craft Coil. I have red the check Engine Codes a d here is the freeze Fram data
DTC :P0351
Fuel System I : Closed Loop
Calculated Load: 71.37%
Engine Coolent temp: 199.4 F
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 : 3.91%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 0.78%
Short term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 6.25%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 0.78%
Engine RPM :1613.25
Vehicle Speed Sensor: 4.35 MPH
What might be my problem? Since The Short Tem Fuel trim from bank 1 and Bank two are vastly different could that mean my fuel injector is not working correctly?
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So my truck started to intermittently misfire about a month ago . I changed the spark plugs wires at first and it seemed to get better but it still had a misfire . I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils and the misfire is still there . Up until the other day it was a noticeable issue but still drivable with . On my way home from work it got alot worse and started to misfire any time I tried to accelerate and now is noticeable at idle now as well.
I checked the fuel injectors resistance and they are about 14.8 ohms . I am not getting any codes for a misfire . I tried to pull the fuel injector connectors to try to find the source of the misfire but could noticeable change in engine rpm. Where to go from here and what I should check first? Would a clogged fuel filter cause something like this ?
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I have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
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I have a new (to me) '97 Windstar with 128K +. C.E.L. is on and intermittently flashing. The code reads P0302 (Cylinder 2 Mis-fire). No other codes are set. Have cleared them many times and gone through multiple drive cycles.
Description of issue: After clearing the codes, and indeed upon each startup, the car starts and idles smoothly without hesitation or issue. It pulls away from parked position without issue. Appears to accelerate just fine. In stop-and-go traffic or directly onto the highway it seems to run smoothly without problem. After a period of time (I don't believe it to be consistent), it will start to misfire and the C.E.L. will be set. If it is still misfiring, the light will flash.
Here's the weird part...when stopping at a traffic light or just continuing to drive on the highway, the misfire will resolve and the car will run smoothly again. The C.E.L., trailing the condition by a bit, will go to solid from flashing and will remain that way until a little farther down the road. The misfire never seems to be more than one cylinder and the trouble code seems to bear that out. Just idling, the car will return to smooth operation and it seems to have smooth acceleration. In other words, the misfire seems to go away under acceleration.
What I've done: I've replaced plugs and wires. No change. Replaced Coil pack. No change.
Next steps: Next steps seem to be looking to fuel or air. My concern with that approach is the occasional nature of the problem. Compression problems would be consistent across the board, right? That cylinder would always be a problem. Same thing for fuel (fuel pump and/or filter). All cylinders would have the problem and it would have issues starting. OK, next thing--injector. Would an injector have spotty performance like this? Also, could it be related to the EGR ports on the intake on this vintage Windstar? (Once again, is an intermittent problem consistent?) Finally, since the primary circuit for spark is controlled by a PCM pin setting a ground for each cylinder, could the PCM, or wiring, be the culprit?
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I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gauge creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gauge shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (can not squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the water pump is working. Also the fan is running fast.
The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow.
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I have a 1999 Ford F-150 XLT, with the 5.4 and a 4spd auto. 172,XXX miles on the clock and i have owned it starting on April of 2014.
Tonight driving home from work, it took some time on the highway (4 miles) to shift into top gear. When you lift off the gas pedal after reaching the speed limit, normally the truck will shift from 3rd to 4th no problem. When I let off the pedal, there was no gear change.
It took sometime for it to shift up. When downshifting on the exit ramp, there was nothing abnormal. Where I live it is 19 Degrees Fahrenheit and this is the beginning of the cold snap that will last well into mid-January of next year.
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A problem with having a 12 volt battery maintainer hooked up to your truck when not being used for a few weeks? In this cold weather the new battery keeps drawing down while not in use and is slow to turn over after 1 1/2 weeks or so? I think the maintainers charge at about 1.5 amps. I wonder if that can keep up with all the parasitic draws: PCM, radio presets & clock, remote door lock system, and factory security system and keep the battery topped off as well?
Also, is there any problem with putting a charge on a battery when the cables are still hooked up to the trucks electrical system with either a maintainer or a full size charger, Example: screwing up the PCM?
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2001 F150! It does this weird little surge, burping and farting away...but only in ambient heat. The engine never gets hot, it never over heats. What have we done? A full tuneup with new plugs and boots, oil change, new air filter, gas filter. It did it again...took it back in and had the fuel pressure checked, fuel injectors are fine...it can't be the fuel pump, it runs great unless it is hot weather. It has twice blown the P0171 system lean bank 1 code and has gone away after the tuneup and again after the new o2 sensor. It runs great, except in hot weather, starts surging and losing power...
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I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gage creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gage shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (cannot squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the waterpump is working. Also the fan is running fast. The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow. Looking for solutions to my problem.
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I've got a 2001 F150 and lately, since the weather has warmed up, I've had a problem. After a few minutes on the road, the engine seems to be lacking power and is running hard. It also seems to shake a bit too. It's not overheating and the gauges don't show signs of high temp. My drive to work is 40 minutes and by the last 10 or 15 minutes it seems to be OK. ... A month or so ago when the weather was cold, I had problems keeping coolant due to leaks but that problem seems to have diminished. I don't know if any of that is connected to the original problem or not.
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Have a 2001 F150 FX4x4 and since the weather changed and started having days below 40 the truck has started running rough for about the first 15-20 miles. When you first start it starts like normal for first 3-5 min and then it starts loping real bad like it has a cam in it!
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I have a 1997 f-150, V-6 absolutely base model, a shade under 80,000 miles. I'm the second owner, and the truck was previously garaged most of the time but now sits out in the driveway. The truck has developed an issue where it will be increasingly hard to start (crank crank crank, intermittent cough) after it sits out in hot weather, which is a problem here in Southern California. When the problem is really bad, it can take all day to get it started (try, wait a bit, try again, etc.). When it does finally catch, it sometimes backfires, idles rough for a few seconds then runs like a champ. I can turn it off and restart it immediately, I can let it sit for an hour or three and restart it, but if it sits out in hot weather it gets increasingly hard to start.
I've scoured various forums, and I've tried every solution I can find. Cycling the key to get fuel in the rail, opening the hood to cool off the engine cavity, trying to start it before it gets hot outside, etc. The truck *is* throwing code p0443, and scouring other forums I think that's either the evap canister purge valve, which my last mechanic replaced, or possibly the charcoal canister, which has not been replaced, but I don't know if that could be contributing (the truck was throwing that code before the hard start developed).
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I have a 03 F150 with a bi-fuel 5.4 engine an it has 195000 miles. I have had trouble for some time now with misfires. I bought the truck in october of 2011 with 125000 miles and replaced all the coils and spark plugs because it was misfiring badly will running on CNG. It was fine on gasoline and never had any codes. After I replaced the plugs and coils it ran fine on CNG and gasoline.
This summer 2013 it began missing badly at highway speeds only when running on CNG. If I accelerated the miss would go away until I was light on the throttle again.I checked the misfire count and found the bad cylinder and replaced a coil. Then a day later same thing on another cylinder. I swapped a coil from another cylinder and problem went away for a day. Eventually I chased the misfire around all the cylinders on the engine until I had ended up either replacing a spark plug or swapping a coil on all the cylinders. And I still had a misfire. It seemed to be worse on days with temperatures above 90 degrees. Eventually I got it to stop misfiring.
So now 5 months later I am back again with a misfire. This time it is misfiring on both gasoline and CNG and under any throttle conditions, except coasting. I have no codes. And the misfire monitor is sending me around the engine again. I have replaced a spark plug in two cylinders and swapped 4 coils.
I'm ready to buy all new coils, but I want to be sure that it is not a waste of money since the old ones only have 70000 miles on them.
Two days ago I had the misfire monitor saying #4 in the evening and the next day without me having done any work on it it was saying #6. Later that same day it said #7 and I still hadn't done anything other than drive the truck.
I checked the connections at the firewall on the drivers side with the three large plugs that are held in with a 10mm bolt, they looked fine, no corrosion or burnt pins. I checked the connection at the ACFM which also looks good. I will check the connection at the PCM in the next day or so.
Some other problems that may be contributing:
1. I occasionally get a U1262 code (scp fault)
2. Sometimes when I check the misfire monitor it only shows 7 cylinders, sometime 9 cylinders. I am using an Innova 3160 scanner.
3. I have either a leaking valve cover gasket or leaking head gasket, because I have oil dripping from the rear bottom corner of the passenger side cylinder head right above the exhaust pipe.
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My 2003 Silverado 5.3 has an intermittent CEL. I plugged in the reader and found code P0304, misfire #4 cylinder. I changed the coil, swapped the spark plug and wire from #2 cylinder to see if the code would follow. Nope, didn't follow. I swapped the injector also, same results. My daughter decided to borrow the truck and drove it so low on fuel that the low fuel light came on in the drive way. I added about 4 gallons of fuel and now the light went off. I started the engine after a jump start, and the engine really runs rough and now won't stay running. I am thinking that the fuel filter is probably needing changed because of how low the fuel.
I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and will do that today. Now, what really puzzles me is the intermittent part. Sometimes it will run with no problem, but then the CEL will come on and the fun begins. The Chevrolet dealer says it's caused by the valves turning in the head and when it reaches a certain spot, it detects the misfiring #4 cylinder resulting in the CEL. If I pull in the driveway with the engine missing, go back out in a short time, start the engine and it runs fine. Same thing if it's running fine and I can start it and the CEL blinks and it begins missing, but may stop and run fine. I am stumped and not so sure about the turning valves.
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My 97 F-150 has 208,000 miles on the original engine. It started misfiring originally on just 2 cylinders, 1 and 8, after pulling the codes. I also get a P0420, catalyst system below threshhold bank code being thrown, but I think it is because of the misfires.
To remedy this I've done the following:
1. Spark plugs are relatively new and were changed completely a few months prior to issues.
2. Coil Packs were changed on both sides. Additionally, Cylinders 1 and 8 are on separate coil packs.
3. Spark Plug wires were changed
4. Did a resistance test on each fuel injector and they all passed.
None of this has worked. Am I missing something obvious? From my friends I've heard everything from my exhaust is plugged to I need to change all my injectors. Injectors are costly and I'm not even sure how to check if my exhaust is partially plugged, but it seemed to be flowing fine. Also, I pulled plug one since it was simple to get to and noticed it was slightly brown, like it had oil on it.
I got frustrated and continued driving my truck until the problem degenerated into severe misfiring and now I cannot get it started at all (Wrong move). I bought a car and haven't drove it since, and have it sitting behind my house. Now the cops want to tow it because the registration is has expired so I've decided to move it into my garage so I can work on it. Part of me wants to junk it, but I've put a lot of time, money, blood, sweat, tears, and curse words into this truck and am motivated to get it back up and running since the transmission and front suspension had been replaced recently.
What to do!?!?
1. Go to the Ford dealership and have them diagnose the issue and then try to fix it? (I have little confidence in them from the stories I've heard)
2. Pull the engine, tear it apart, and rebuild it?
3. Drop a used/rebuilt engine in?
4. Call me crazy and say junk the truck and buy a different one?
Currently leaning towards option 3...
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I have changed the COP and the injector as well as the spark plug. I am still having a misfire on #7 cylinder....
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I have a 1998 F150 4.6 that has a misfire with no CEL. I have already tried the following: checked fuel pressure, change cam shaft sensors, changed coil, checked MAf seems ok, spark plugs and wires. On my scan tool it wont show any misfires when obviously its misfiring. When driving it will run good for about 10 seconds and then misses for about 10 seconds and it just keep going in this loop.
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97 f250 5.4 L ............. In the torque app main screen hit menu, hit settings ,scroll down to manage extra PIDs/Sensors ,hit menu again , add predetermined set and I choose Ford (including power stroke ) ,now you see a big list of things you can test live ,hit cylinder misfire (whatever cylinder # you like to see) scroll down and hit test ... well you will see on the top results a live misfire count data constantly updating ....I know because I disconnected COP #1( it took 1-2 mins and started counting) ...
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Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors???
I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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My truck has developed a misfire on cylinders 1 and 5. The OBD2 scanner at autozone says code P0300, Po301 and P0305. I bought a new set of plugs and wires. Problem still there. I then replaced the both coils. Problem is still there. Is there a control module or something that could kill those 2 cylinders like on the older trucks with distributors?
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I got a 97 f150 4.2l from my neighbor. he takes good care of his vehicles. he sold it to me cuz it started to idle very rough like a misfire. it is hard to start when cold spits sputters and pops. once started idles like it wants to stall, then will idle normally then back to rough. back and forth like that. runs like a champ when going down the road . check engine light was on took it to auto store they checked codes . said bad o2 sensors so i changed them. still same issue. neighbor changed coil packs checked spark plugs and wire. every thing fires good. i changed iac. still didn't fix problem. could this be a bad egr valve or sensor? if so how can i diagnose this? he also thought was a clogged cat and bored it out. tight budget can't afford to take it to a mechanic. Was told spray carb cleaner spray around engine to check for leaks that did nothing at all...
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