Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Instrument Cluster Gauge Lights Not Showing And Alternator Is Not Consistently Charging
Aug 6, 2014
I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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99 F-150 V-6, 125,000 miles: I repaired the odometer connection on the cluster mother board! It now works great but now have no running (parking) lights and no backlights for the instrument cluster. I think (!) they were working before I pulled the cluster to fix the odometer--not sure. Fuzes are all good--I metered each with ohmmeter for continuity, and also have 12V to the right fuzes with headlite switch in Park and Head. I replaced the headlight switch with a new one but still the same problem. Have I messed up something in the cluster board or connections by soldering there? I don't know what role the cluster plays in feeding the running lites or the cluster backup lites. Stumped. What am I missing?
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 minutes after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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2001 ranger with 4.0, alternator failed and new alternator is also not charging, showing very little output. i've installed 2 new ones with no fix. the regulator is in the alternator, correct? I'm stumped and not sure where to go with this.
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I just replaced all 5 of my instrument cluster bulbs in my 1998 f150. Everything looks nice and bright now that everything is replaced but around the top of the speedometer the light is dim. Is this normal for this instrument cluster or could there be a bad bulb or a light blockage? It's frustrating to go through effort to get to the cluster and find out after it's put back together that there's a bad bulb or something.
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The brake light in my instrument cluster on my 1997 F150 won't come on. I have put in 2 new bulbs.
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Town and all shops nearby have a week wait to get the truck in there. This happened once or twice a year ago but I'd pull over, shut it off and when I restarted it everything was fine. I'll be driving and all of a sudden the information display on the cluster will show a wrench signaling something's wrong(see image), then the speedometer will go to 0 and all information in center display will show flat lines. This started up yesterday but is now doing it after about 10min of driving every time I being driving. What's worse is the truck will randomly start shifting or shift extremely hard even when driving at a consistent speed. This was taken while truck was going about 45, but shows 0...
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So I noticed this is a common problem in several scenarios. Some are electric failures and key failures and computer failures....And other times they happen when you switch the cluster.
I had a blacked out cluster with a couple broken gauges and after spending an hour swapping the cluster I get a crank but no start. I tried switching the 301 and 304 fuses (fuel pump and PCM) as that was mentioned somewhere online but it did nothing. Any quick fixes or do I need to tow it to a dealership?
2001 Supercrew with 4.6L and 4x4
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I am really hoping that my instrument cluster in not working because my alternator went out at the same time. I really hope they are connected somehow. I really need a wiring diagram for this one. Just got the truck last week and have been taking care of the little things to get it fixed up and make it my own. my new rear step bumper came in today. I will be dropping off the the alternator for a rebuild tomorrow. So looking for a wiring diagram?
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I own a 2012 Toyota Camry LE (TCLE), and recently I've noticed that the "instrument cluster" shows "MAINT REQD" warning light on for more than a few seconds when I start the car. All other warning lights do turn off while the "MAINT REQD" is still ON for a few seconds more than I usually remember. This car has about 25K miles, and I bought it with 19K miles. Should I take it to a dealer for a check up? By the way, I was waiting until the end of February to take the car for a oil change, but I am now concerned with this stupid WARNING light
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My dad has a 97 f150 ext cab and the gauges are dead.... What would cause this? I've checked the faq but didn't see anything.
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I found a instrument gauge cluster out of a 2005 XLT that I would like to put into my 2005 XL. It has the tach that I miss. The mileage is less. Will I have any problems switching them - i.e.,: lights not working, etc? Will the onboard computer correct the mileage?
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1997 Explorer belonging to a friend who will show up complaining that his battery is dying. Of course, the problem is intermittent.
So far, tried 2 new alternators, (rebuilds), 3 batteries and several diagnostic sessions which have been inconclusive. What I do know is that when the charging system is not working, I still have full battery voltage on the Y/W and LG/R wires on the small wire plug at the alternator. The path from the alternator output through the megafuse to battery + does seem to be intact. Measures full battery voltage and even tried a test by using a battery booster cable to connect the alternator output directly to battery + when the system was not charging.
No change with this test. Visual inspection of the engine to firewall ground strap and the battery - to rad cradle ground wire seem to be OK. Have not had the opportunity to try the jumper cable trick to verify the alternator case to battery - circuit, (darn intermittent!). There did seem to be something intermittent related to a wiggle test in and around the power distribution fuseblock, but once again, this was inconclusive. I also was able to make the charging system fail, (once) by turning on the headlights and blower motor.Any specific failures that may cause this? Not much left to change or check!
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Was driving my truck I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L, btw. The heater started blowing cold air and I looked at the temp gauge but it was showing lower than it normally does and then, after a couple of miles or so I looked at the temp gauge again. By this time I was in my driveway. And it was overheating it might have been that way before I looked at the temp gauge again. But any way I opened the hood didn't see any leaks, all my hoses were hot except the top heater hose. Also checked the oil it was full and coolant was too, what this could be? Sounds like a t-stat to me? But could be worse. Also forgot to mention that the oil had no signs of water in there nor the expansion tank cap !
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For a while now, my coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster would bounce according to the bumps on the road, only when engine is fully warmed up. So I disconnected the ECT sensor to see if there's anything unusual. Nothing suspicious found, so I plugged it back in. Now my temp gauge is at "Cold" all the time. OBD reader shows normal coolant temp rise.
I shorted the ECT connector to simulate a hot condition--gauge still shows Cold. Checked the yellow/red wire against ground--5 ohm. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes--no change.
Now, it looks like I'll have to pull the instrument cluster, which is not something I want to do since I don't really have a place to work on the car, but I take this drastic measure.
Mine is a 2001, with the analog cluster.
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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I have 87 Ford Ranger. 2.9L 4x4. Before any tips, I have checked the fuses, I have changed the Switch for the lights and the instrument cluster. Still no luck. I don't know if there is something wrong with the wiring. But what I was plan on doing is finding out on one of the Wiring Harnesses on the back of the Cluster which wire turns on the back lights on the cluster. Everything else on the cluster works (Gauges, Highbeam indicator, all the warning sign lights). What wires are what on the wiring harnesses. I was going to just run the wire to its own switch.
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My instrument panel lights are out are they hard to change ? the truck is a 1997 f-150 4x4 /4.6 liter...
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0. I had a flickering Battery lt on the dash last week so I replaced the Alternator. People recommended I upgrade to the 2005 140 amp alt from my stock 110. I have a single alt system. So I did, today it died on way to work. Batteries were drained. Had new alt checked and its fine. So All I have is a wiring diagram from 99-2002 but it shows the plug on the alt with 2 wires, Lt grn/red from switched ign and Org/Lt Blu which goes to batteries. Org/Lt blu has 12v but Lt green/Red has nothing with ign sw on. I did check fuse 45 in Central J box and have power there. I did notice I have no battery Lt on dash when you turn Ign sw on, and never got the Lt this morning when it died. What Im confused about is do I have a PCM? my diagrams that only go up to 2002 model show it for a 2 alt sys but not for a single alt. I should have power on Lt Grn/red with ign sw on correct? Everyone said 2005 alt was plug and play, the elec connector is now pointed down, where it was pointed up on the orig alt, look to be wired the same.
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I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
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One of my bulbs sometimes doesn't come on when I turn my lights on. I actually have to hit the dashboard to get it to come on. Does it randomly. Ironically, it's been doing this ever since I pulled the instrument cluster out to change a different bulb. I don't know if I did something when taking it out or putting it back in. Anyway, what I can check to see why it's doing this? It's just one bulb that illuminates the right portion of the tachometer.
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