Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Ignition Cylinder Periodically Will Stick
Sep 27, 2014
2000 F150 5.4 engine. The truck was running great, but it's time to sale it. The ignition cylinder periodically will stick. So, my son the genius , took a pair of pliers to force it to turn. I get home from work to move it the front yard and the PATS theft is blinking fast as I try to start it. It cranks just not start. I hear the fuel pump come on. I removed the cover on the steering column and there is no damage to the ring around the key cylinder or anything I can see, just the cylinder itself . I tried disconnecting the battery, switching relays,etc.
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My boss gave me a 2002 f150 if i can get it started. No key and no paper work in order to get locksmith to replace key. The only way i have noticed to get it started is to drill through cylinder to get it out. Need to know how to get it going?
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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So I have a replacement steering column for my truck and need to swap out lock cylinders. My question is; since there is NO key, is there any way to avoid drilling out retaining pin. If I did drill it out am I entirely screwed'?
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I am driving a 4 cylinder 2003 Hyundai Sonata just at 130000 miles. The other day on the trip back home the car started shaking violently and the check engine light came on. I ran the code and it led me to a cylinder 1 misfire. Today I replaced my spark plugs, and wires. The number 1 plug had some deposits on it, but nothing that should cause a misfire.
Now when the car is in idle there is a spark that jumps from the boot of one of the new wires to the grounding on the corresponding coil. I have never noticed this spark before changing the plugs and wires. It does this with either set of wires. I have a picture below where the spark is jumping from. The car has a noticeable drop in idle when it sparks. Do I need to look into getting some new coils?
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A few days ago my ignition key would not budge when I tried to start my 2003 Santa Fe. I tried all the tricks like turning the wheel. dry lube, etc but no luck. All indications are that I need a new ignition lock cylinder but I can't figure out how to remove it. I removed all of the plastic and metal shrouding below the dash but can't seem to find a hole to release the cylinder. I have also tried to remove the whole cylinder body assembly by disconnecting the wires and loosening the bolt that secures the "arm" from the ignition cylinder body to the steering column but that also seems to be secured in a way I can't figure out.
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Trucks throwing codes for cylinder 3 and 8 misfire. I pulled the plugs and both were covered in oil and cylinder 8s electrode was literally gone. so I replaced the plugs and within 5 miles it was missing again. so I replaced all plugs, all wires and coil packs. cylinder 8 plug had fouled out. Its a 4.6l 99. I have a mild exhaust leak where the manifold connects to the downpipe. but not bad enough I feel it should matter. it runs rough until about 3k rpm and then it kinda straightens out.
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I have changed the COP and the injector as well as the spark plug. I am still having a misfire on #7 cylinder....
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Which cylinder is #3 on 2003 150 4.6. ...
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99 F 250LD 240k miles. I think I know the answer but hope I'm wrong. Started noticing the blower fan staying on when left in the panel position, even with key out. This morning I walked by my truck and noticed the radio on. Opened the door and the door chime started beeping. Is this a case of a leaky windshield and water running down the a-pillar and getting the GEM wet? Hope not but I think that's it. I haven't seen any water leaks yet. Could it be a stuck ignition relay? I've never heard of a relay staying open. Could it be a corroded fuse panel. i also heard a clicking coming from the area of the PCM recently but it stopped.
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I recently purchased my 1998 F150 Lariat, and it came with a small silver key (I haven't figured out what it's for yet), and a key for the ignition, plus the remote door lock control on the key chain.
Naturally, for the first several weeks I had been locking and unlocking the doors with the remote. I had assumed that the ignition key would also lock/unlock the doors and tailgate. Well, it fits into the locks, but doesn't turn.
Could it be that a different key is required for doors, or, maybe the door lock cylinders are seized?
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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1999 f250 ld, 5.4.
Started running rough, checked codes. Initially got po300, po304. Reset, and when I checked again, had po171.
Checked the PCV lines, and found a split right near the throttle body. Of course. broke the plastic tube trying to pull it off. Replaced the short piece of hose with a longer piece to make up for the broken plastic tube.
Now, po171 is gone, but the others remain.
Cylinder # 4 looks impossible to get to. I would like to swap COPs to see if the code moves.
A. does this make sense?
B. how the hell to I get back there?
At a minimum, it looks like I have to disconnect a bunch of hoses, and maybe even remove the fuel rail.
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whats the best way to clean a 97 f150 5.4 cyl head
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My truck has developed a misfire on cylinders 1 and 5. The OBD2 scanner at autozone says code P0300, Po301 and P0305. I bought a new set of plugs and wires. Problem still there. I then replaced the both coils. Problem is still there. Is there a control module or something that could kill those 2 cylinders like on the older trucks with distributors?
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Got myself into a tight situation with a truck I recently purchased and seeing if any of you have experienced the same thing or know what may be going on. I bought a 1998 F-150 with 213,000 miles and a 4.2 engine. When I test drove the truck it had a small chugging vibration, for lack of a better term, but the check engine light was not on and it seemed to run great while driving. No problem at highway speeds nor below.
On my way home the check engine light turned on which turned into a blinking check engine light and I knew I had been taken by a person with a diagnostic computer who cleared the codes. He made a comment about it turning on before but his "buddy" fixed the issue but I took his word because he seemed like a decent person.
I took it to a local shop and, if I remember correctly, error code 302 came up for misfire on cylinder #2. He changed the plugs and wires and it seemed to run a lot better. About 5 miles later on my way home the check engine light turned back on, but it still seemed to run smoothly by the time I got home.
The next day I took it back to him and this time we got the same error code plus (again going of my poor memory) error 174 which he said was cylinder #2 running lean. Earlier today he called and said he checked over everything and couldn't figure out anything wrong until he checked the compression. He said the other 5 cylinders were around 130 psi and cylinder #2 was at 75 psi.
Now this mechanic runs more of a brake and exhaust shop so his next statements are why I'm coming to all of you for your opinions.
He said the cylinder was shot and everything inside was shot including the piston, rings, and everything else associated with #2. (I don't think he got in there to really check it out) After scouring the forums I hear more people talk about the valves may not be sealing correctly and what sound to me, to be smaller issues than the entire #2 cylinder being toast.
I'm not sure if I am going to go after the person who sold it to me or not yet but I would like to see what others may think is going on before I light this guy up. I plan on taking it to a more proficient mechanic to do the work, if deemed worthy of work, but would like to kmow where I stand.
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I have a '98 F150 with 4.6L Triton with low compression in cyl # 4 @ approx. 30#; all other cyl are at 140# or so. Would it be a burnt valve, bent valve, cam? Any harm if I drive it like that? I have not have it on the road yet.
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I have 97 150 it has a misfire on cylinder 4 and 6. I put new coil packs on and new plug wires. Spark plugs are only a year old. what else it could be?
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Ok 210k truck runs great except I am loosing coolant into #1 cyl. Ive owned the truck since 120k and it has NEVER ran hot not even above normal. I guess due to expansion it will even fill up the cyl nearly hydro locking it, no oil in water/radiator and no water residue in the oil either. I had the intake gaskets replaced thinking it may have been it but it came soon back. I really dont think its an head gasket, has there ever been reported problems with the intakes on these trucks? oh btw 97 2wd with 4.6. Even with coolant getting into the cyl it still runs great just a little white smoke.... I really don't want to replace the engine I think it has a lot of life still in it.
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I recently took a 4.6 from a 98 e-150 van and put in a 1997 f 150. put new oil pump, bearings, and rings. Got everything hooked up and ready to roll. turn over but no spark to any cyl. What it might be?
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I have an 01 5.4 Triton with engine light on I put it on the scanner and it read miss fire on cylinder 6 and 1 I changed the cops and plugs boots and spring erased the codes but the check light is back on and scanner is say miss fire on same two cylinders u can hear it in the exhaust u can smell gas when sitting at an idle around 40 MPH has a slight engine shake goes away when u accelerate I am not sure what else to do some one told me to check for vac leaks and fuel pressure.
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