Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Ignition Coil Stripped While Another Snapped - Intake Manifold?
Oct 1, 2016
I was replacing my spark plugs and one screw holding the ignition coil stripped while another snapped. I have change 3 plugs (the easy one) and could have more problems. I spent half a day trying to drill the screws out to no avail and also noticed the intake manifold is plastic. I was thinking of swapping it out. This would alleviate the broken screw problem and make pulling the plugs easier. It also looks like it's just 8 bolts. Would swapping a new intake manifold in add any performance gains? Is there a manifold others recommend?
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I've got a 1997 F150 with the 4.2L V6. Before I got it last summer I did some research, but apparently missed the issue with the intake manifold gasket leaks on these early engines. It seems to be a very slow leak, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I called Ford to see if it had had the recall work done on it, but all they could tell me is that there wasn't an open recall on my truck (with the exception of the recent fuel tank strap recall). Their system apparently only goes back 10 years, so they couldn't even see the freakin' recall. So, I've got a few questions:
1) I know I didn't post much info, but does this seem like an intake manifold leak?
2) Are there any special tools needed to change out the gasket myself?
3) Can you all recommend any replacement gaskets? I found a few different manufacturers of gaskets, but I'm sure some are better than others.
4) Can this issue cause the computer to throw the loose gas cap code (P0455 if I recall correctly).
5) Would it be worth it to just get a new truck? I really wanted a diesel in the first place, but I also hate to give up on a nice truck with only 115,000 miles.
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Replaced head gaskets on 2003 f-150 5.4. Now I can hear a ticking noise in middle of intake by #5 port. Maybe timing is off 1 link?
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I am about to replace the intake manifold and gaskets. I know all of that process, but first question is if there is anything i should do whilst in there. Second question; what can I do with my intake to get more power? Mainly just kind of wondering before I get my parts ordered.
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so new motor new intake , rear passenger side decides to leak when roughly about 10 degrese or lower and being -13 yesterday and-18 this morning.
last year it did this n i put a nother hose clamp on that rear tube and just happened to stop . n now back but the ting is that its not wet at all at the hose but at top of head bottom intake hmm . this is all just during the initial start of truck stops even before truck really gets warm
if i tke it off n its messed up i hope its warrentied even though i painted it. if fine i guess add some gasket maker ?
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just got finished putting her back together from a blown intake manifold gasket and run for a few miles to get rid of any cob webs and then my battery light comes on. just replaced the battery last week. and I tested the alternator and it charging at 14.5 volts bat reads when disconnected 12.9 volts so I am not sure why my battery light will come on.
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I have been having some issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter, started out running rough, then hydrolocked with no serious damage, blown intake manifold gasket, fixed that, alternator over charging do to bad voltage regulator, fixed that. and airbag code 52, still working on that, as well as failure to connect when trying to do diagnostic scan. now I am wondering if the engine diagnostic is still even working. still running good just a very slight vibration when warms up. I am not getting any code. or my check engine light is not showing any codes. What I want to do is force a code. What would be the safest way to force a code or force engine light to give a code?
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I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
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I have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
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1999 Ford F-150 4WD
5.4L Triton V8
114k miles
So my check engine light came on a few days ago and I went down to Autozone to check it out with the code reader. The result was "Cylinder 4 Misfire" (the guy said that was as far as the diagnosis would go...) and since I just replaced the spark plugs under 1,000 miles ago, I figured it must be the ignition coil (I replaced coils 1, 7 and 8 about 100 miles ago too).
When I removed the coil, the outside was fully covered in rust, the spring had a tiny bit of rust, and it smelled a little like gasoline. After replacing the coil, the check engine light went off, however the engine still runs rough and doesn't sound much different than before.
What the issue might be? Would a compression test or a better code reader diagnosis give me more insight? I live in Louisiana where we get a decent amount of rain and humidity, so I'm worried there might be a moisture issue down around the spark plug. Also, the exhaust seems hotter than normal and the engine gets pretty hot in a short amount of time.
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I have a 77 bronco with a 5.0 efi engine from a 97 Ford Explorer. I noticed there is oil in the cold air intake area and upper intake manifold. I was checking on things and noticed oil around the PCV valve and on the outside of the cold air intake system. Should I be concerned about this? I have done some research. I checked the PCV valve and intake manifold gasket which appear to look fine.
The PCV valve rattles and the gasket is intact. Granted there isn't a lot of oil when I looked inside the upper intake manifold but thought I should write and ask if this is a problem or not. Should I just replace them pcv valve any ways and recheck it after driving it for a few miles? The explorer did have 110K on it but when we took it apart we thought the engine looked great for how many miles it had on it. We did change out the cam and timing chain but as far as the other parts, we did not replace.
I am also getting a unusual reading to not reading with my oil gauge. When driving for a about 30 minutes or so, My oil gauge goes down to zero when I'm stopped but when I'm drive off then the pressure comes back up. When I have it in park the gauge reads fine.
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'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
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I have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
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I have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
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I've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
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With the many discussions on F150 spark plug blow outs, is there any consistency in which Cylinders usually go or is it completely random. In my 2003 F150, 4.6, 2wd, I've replaced #3 cylinder with insert and now #2. Currently I'm at 154,000 miles but want to travel cross country with a load. I don't want to stall out on the hwy, would it be wise to go and insert the remaining cylinders - not cheap. My mechanic is willing to inspect with a bore scope the threads and re-torque. Is there a point at which if it hasn't been a problem it won't be. Truck is used primarily for commuting and to pull a single jet ski in the summer. Both blow-outs happened at a stop-light about 20,000 miles apart with no load.
Follow-up. Did inspection, found cylinder #7 nearly stripped out - it was actually pushing up the coil. Funny thing is, this plug had already the small insert which was coming out with the plug. I bought the vehicle new. Was this a factory repair? or did my previous mechanic strip-it when replacing all my plugs at 95,000 miles? Lucking the large inserts my current mechanic uses was able to find some metal and make a good repair. Looking at the cylinder order, I have now replaced 3 of the inter four cylinders (2,3,7) should have I done #6 too, this is probably the next high risk cylinder or not?
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My friend and I are working on her '03 1.8t and I noticed a huge oil leak under the intake manifold. It looks like there's a tube that has broken off and is now just spewing oil all over the place. I tried to get pics the best I could, so here they are....
I'd imagine its something that needs to be fixed asap.
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I stripped the MAF sensor hole on my intake. Any recommendations on how to fix this? Do they make tread inserts that small for that type of thread? I was thinking about jamming some JB weld in there and drilling/tapping that.
I know that unmetered air can get in there if it's not tight so I tried to carefully seal it up with some rtv for now.
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I took my Monte in for the annual Missouri Safety Inspection. Note: I had no known problems with my 2003 Monte SS 117K Miles. After the inspection, which passed, I was informed of a variety of problems: Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, Valve Cover Gasket w/Intake replacement, Thermostat w/Intake Removal, Fuel Injector O-Rings w/Intake Removal.
My question is should I have all of this done? It's not cheap..roughly 1000 bucks. I know very little about this and I don't want to just tell my mechanic to do it without some research. Are these common problems with Monte's of this age/mileage and just part of the cost of owning this car. I am the original owner and have avoiding costly repairs/maintenance..it's been a great car.
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Drove 97 LHS home from work back at the end of June on a 100 plus day, it seemed fine, no indication of any problem. Got in it the next morning to go to work and it would not start. Cranks fine, hear fuel pump. So a few days pass before my husband can look at it. He did get codes. He replaced the ignition coil, put on a new fuel filter, and replaced a couple of modules. It would still not start. We towed it to a service station that we have used for years.
They replaced the camshaft sensor (and fixed the AC). I drove it for 8 days, no problems. Then on the morning of the 9th day, it would not start!! Exact same symptoms. So towed it again back to the service station. Then they said it was the PCM (control module). Husband went to junk yard to get one (much cheaper). Service shop put it in and then said that was not the problem and replaced the crankshaft sensor instead. Say it was ready to pick up. I went and paid again! Got key and came back later with husband to pick it up. IT would not start!!!
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the car drives normally.
I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] .....
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