Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Ignition And Accessories Work With Key Out
Dec 28, 2016
99 F 250LD 240k miles. I think I know the answer but hope I'm wrong. Started noticing the blower fan staying on when left in the panel position, even with key out. This morning I walked by my truck and noticed the radio on. Opened the door and the door chime started beeping. Is this a case of a leaky windshield and water running down the a-pillar and getting the GEM wet? Hope not but I think that's it. I haven't seen any water leaks yet. Could it be a stuck ignition relay? I've never heard of a relay staying open. Could it be a corroded fuse panel. i also heard a clicking coming from the area of the PCM recently but it stopped.
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Have a 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. when i turn the key and pull it out the accessories stay on. What could be wrong and what can i do to fix so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery?
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Okay, I've done a few topic searches and see some variations on this, but not this specific scenario. 2001 F-250 (5.4L, 4x4, auto). My daughter's truck and I wasn't home so this is the best info I have as relayed by her.
She turned the key off, the engine shut off, but all the "electrics" stayed on -- radio and a/c fan to be specific. She said that morning the truck had a dead battery so she got a jump start, leading one to suspect that the electrics stayed on the previous night as well. (?)
I had her disconnect the battery and let it sit until I got home. Of course, when I got home and reconnected the battery, everything works normally as it should. And has worked normally for a few days.
So.. any words of wisdom out there while we wait for "the next" occurrence?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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97 Explorer XLT ... All lights , radio, etc. work, so not battery. When turning key to start, there is silence. No click, no stutter, nuttin. Starter?? Where should I start?
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I have a 95 Jeep Cherokee that has a strange electrical problem. When I first turn the car on after it has been sitting for several hours, the following accessories do not work:- Air conditioner/Ventilation- Wipers- Cigarette lighter
There are two really odd things going on here: The first is that the radio will not work if any of the above three things are turned on, but it WILL work if they are all turned off. For example, with the wipers and AC off, and cell charger unplugged from the lighter, the radio will turn on. As soon as I plug the charger in, or turn on the wipers or AC, the radio goes off. None of these accessories actually turn on, but simply being putting them in the "on" position kills the radio until they are switched off.
The second weird thing is that after a few minutes of driving, everything will return to working as normal - radio, AC, lighter, etc. They continue to work until the next time the car has been sitting for several hours, at which point the same problem repeats.
FYI, I recently replaced the alternator to address an unrelated issue, but it did not make a difference with this one.
I searched the car talk forums for similar issues, but did not have any luck - while it does look like there are some other Chrysler vehicles that have electrical problems, I couldn't find anything dealing with an intermittent problem.
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My 02 F250 periodically has no acccesories like electric windows, radio, and AC do not work for a minute or so. It has been doing this for awhile and seems to be getting more frequent and I am concerned that it might go out on a trip. It runs OK when this is going on and usually happens on the first start on the day. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch?
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I recently purchased my 1998 F150 Lariat, and it came with a small silver key (I haven't figured out what it's for yet), and a key for the ignition, plus the remote door lock control on the key chain.
Naturally, for the first several weeks I had been locking and unlocking the doors with the remote. I had assumed that the ignition key would also lock/unlock the doors and tailgate. Well, it fits into the locks, but doesn't turn.
Could it be that a different key is required for doors, or, maybe the door lock cylinders are seized?
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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2000 F150 5.4 engine. The truck was running great, but it's time to sale it. The ignition cylinder periodically will stick. So, my son the genius , took a pair of pliers to force it to turn. I get home from work to move it the front yard and the PATS theft is blinking fast as I try to start it. It cranks just not start. I hear the fuel pump come on. I removed the cover on the steering column and there is no damage to the ring around the key cylinder or anything I can see, just the cylinder itself . I tried disconnecting the battery, switching relays,etc.
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When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
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So yesterday i got my windshield tinted at a shop and now im having issues. My ac stays on when the key is out of the ignition i can use all settings from low to high. My windshield wipers only work in neutral and park. Im calling them when they open but i think the water they spray on the tint got down in the dash and fried something.
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Have 2000 Ford XLT Extended Cab 4x4 with 5.4. It will not start. Put the ignition in on position and can't hear the fuel pump running. Fuse Okay, Relay OK. Does this year have A Fuel Pump Driver Module? If so, where is it located? I know where they are located on 2004 and up but not mine. If I have to change out Fuel pump, is it easier to pull the tank or the Bed?
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I have been looking around on here for an answer and I can't find exactly what I am looking for. My key is worn down and will not easily move. My spare key is like new and works great. I have a spare that doesn't have a chip in it and it will turn over the engine but not fire it up. Even with the old key and the non chip key touching together at the switch, the truck will not fire up. How does this set up work and can I remove the chip from the old key and attach it to the no chip key.
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Vehicle will start when put in drive and when put in reverse starter engages and also the ignition wont start vehicle sometimes and the o/d light blinks when driving down the road...
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My boss gave me a 2002 f150 if i can get it started. No key and no paper work in order to get locksmith to replace key. The only way i have noticed to get it started is to drill through cylinder to get it out. Need to know how to get it going?
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1997 Ford F-150 4X4 ignition Actuator Rod. Looking for instructions on how to replace a broken Actuator Rod? I know the rod is broken because the upper part moves and the lower part connected to the switch does not move.
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Ok, so I got a really wierd problem with headlights. 2001 F150, Supercrew, 4x4, 5.4L Auto lights and fog lights. Sitting with ignition off, light switch in "off" position, doors not locked - lights will occasionally blink off and on(more of a flicker). Symptoms go away if I lock with remote.
With engine running, lights "on" position. Turned lights to "park", they started to flicker, back to on, still flickering. Switched to off, still flickering. Switched to "auto", lights stayed on with no flickering.
When lights flicker, I can hear a rapid clicking under the dash somewhere(relay of some sort?). Headlight is a bit wobbly. But when I wiggle it, it has no effect on flickering. From what I remember, likely culprit is the GEM module.
Question: does a new module have to be programmed in any way or is it plug and go? I have a new headlight switch coming.
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So, I'm wondering if there is a way of disabling my ignition manually by taking something out from under the hood?
I've read somewhere that taking the fuel pump out works? I'm wondering if there is a chip or something small in the power distribution box that I can take out so if someone breaks in to my truck, they can't start it.
I have some pictures of my power distribution box with all the chips...
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I have a 2003 Ford F150 XLT 5.4 V8 with about 131,000 on it. The 4wd does not work at all. You move the electronic switch no light in the dash no click at the actuator motor no nothing. I took the switch on the dash off and from the dark blue wire I am getting 11.5 volts from there constant.
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1999 Ford F-150 4WD
5.4L Triton V8
114k miles
So my check engine light came on a few days ago and I went down to Autozone to check it out with the code reader. The result was "Cylinder 4 Misfire" (the guy said that was as far as the diagnosis would go...) and since I just replaced the spark plugs under 1,000 miles ago, I figured it must be the ignition coil (I replaced coils 1, 7 and 8 about 100 miles ago too).
When I removed the coil, the outside was fully covered in rust, the spring had a tiny bit of rust, and it smelled a little like gasoline. After replacing the coil, the check engine light went off, however the engine still runs rough and doesn't sound much different than before.
What the issue might be? Would a compression test or a better code reader diagnosis give me more insight? I live in Louisiana where we get a decent amount of rain and humidity, so I'm worried there might be a moisture issue down around the spark plug. Also, the exhaust seems hotter than normal and the engine gets pretty hot in a short amount of time.
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