97 F150 4.2 auto with Simple trans pan gasket change because it was leaking and now the ignition fuse blows every time I turn the key to the on position. Ran fine before now what? can't pull code with reader with key on or off.
View 4 RepliesGot a 2001 F150 XLT 4x4,4.6L, When you start the vehicle it seems to run a little rough you can drive around with it OK. Soon as you put it in reverse,It starts to really run rough..touch the gas pedal and fuse position #30 blows.
This fuse is for : Passive Anti theft Transceiver, Cluster Ignition Coils, Powertrain Control Module, Relay Coil on Plugs, Radio noise Capacitor, ECC Diode.
I have checked cables and connections, all seem ok...Relays are fine. Nothing seems burnt on the cable running from the engine to the exhaust. I don't see any wire breakage in the tilt Column.
Cant find a short if it is one.. Even removed the aftermarket Remote starter from the circuit ... still blowing that darn fuse.... What to check now, or what it could be?
Have 2000 Ford XLT Extended Cab 4x4 with 5.4. It will not start. Put the ignition in on position and can't hear the fuel pump running. Fuse Okay, Relay OK. Does this year have A Fuel Pump Driver Module? If so, where is it located? I know where they are located on 2004 and up but not mine. If I have to change out Fuel pump, is it easier to pull the tank or the Bed?
View 6 RepliesRecently got a 2003 f 250 6.0 that has had a little work done on it. Absolutely love it with 1 exception. When I turn on the ac or heat It blows a 10 amp fuse that goes to the blower relay. It was occasionally now it's all the time.Blower ok, fan speed resistor ok. What or where to look.
View 8 RepliesMy 2002 f150 blows the overdrive fuse (#29) every time the overdrive tries to engage. Could it be the overdrive switch? Where is that switch? Could it be a speed sensor? Truck has an automatic transmission and a 5.4 engine.
View 14 RepliesSo I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
I recently bought an 02 F-150 FX4. Have not had a lot of time to go thru it yet, as it will be a work truck when I get it set up. I notice when I turn the key to the run position it sounds like a CD player under the dash "whirring" for about 5-8 seconds then it stops. It does have some kind of electric brake controller mounted near the bottom of the dash, but the noise is further behind that. If it ever stops snowing or being way below zero I'll get it out of the garage and see if I can figure it out... All runs good...all options work OK....and it doesn't appear to be related to the factory CD -radio.
View 7 RepliesSon has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
View 3 RepliesI'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and every time I step on the brake pedal, it blows my STOP fuse under the hood (which takes out my ability to shift out of park, use my horn and the brake lights also go out.) When I replace my fuse, the horn does not blow the fuse, it is stepping on the brake pedal one time, even when in park before turning the key over.
Things I have tried: Changing all of my bulbs and inspecting the socket areas, inspecting most of the wiring and taping areas that seemed fine but might have been touching metal, replacing my brake light switch.
What could be doing this?! I have figured out that I can manually shift out of park using the override slot, but no brake lights is not good.
When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
Ok I have recently bought a 1998 Ford F-150 V6 4.2L 2WD and when the guy sold it to me the check engine light was on and he told me that randomly when you turn the key to the on position you will not hear the fuel pump buzzing sound and he knew it wouldn't start, he said you would have to turn the key from the on and off position many times until you hear this sound and then the truck will start and run fine.
First off I got the codes read and there were three of them P0171, P0174, and P1537 some things to note are that the drivers air bag looks like it had deployed, the cover is loose and when I pulled it back the air bag looks duct taped up inside there that would cause the air bag light to continuously flash while driving. I noticed the battery leads were corroded so I replaced the battery and put new battery clamps on both wires, after that the problem did not happen for a week and I though it was over but it happened again.
Next is that the truck has the PATS system and it did not come with a remote which I have also read that the PATS system can cause the fuel pump not to turn on but not sure if this would cause it to not start randomly because sometimes it starts right up. When I started to look at the simple things to fix I noticed it did not have an air filter in the housing. so I thought the MAF sensor could be dirty so I cleaned it with the special cleaner, I put sea foam into the intake via a vacuum hose and also have put a fuel system cleaner in a full tank and have driven most of the gas out. After putting in an air filter, cleaning the MAF sensor, and sea foaming the intake, it seems to run a bit better but I am still having the random fuel pump issue.
I have checked the fuses and the and the fuel pump and ECM relays both are fine. Today I put new exhaust on it because it had some bad exhaust leaks and the truck did not start again, so the guy trying to put my exhaust on, hit the fuel tank with a hammer and it didn't work then hit it again and it finally worked. Im not sure if the hitting it did it or if it just randomly turned on like always from turning the key on and off. The new exhaust has made a huge difference in driving it feels and sounds much better.
Also to note is that when I am stopped at stop lights it will idle at about 1500 and then it drops down to 500 and back up and back down again and it does this at most stop lights, and it is not an abrupt drop it just slowly idles down and back up again. Again once the truck is started it runs perfectly fine with no issues, and there are no specific times when it has the problem it seems to be randomly. I know that many people will tell me to change the fuel pump out and I am already prepared for this but if there is any easy things I haven't thought of yet...
I have a 1999 f-150 and am having a problem that I cannot pin down . After starting the truck and running it for 10 min or so I shut it off and it will not restart again for approx. 3-4 hrs . When you turn the key there is a clicking noise coming from behind the fuse panel . Also the truck will not start if temp outside rises above 80 degrees . Is there a replaceable relay under there or is it the computer module ? Battery is new .
View 9 RepliesOk so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
View 10 RepliesI was having intermittent fuel pressure problems. I replaced fuel pump and relay and was still having the problem. A figured out that wiggling the 20 amp fuse would cause the intermittent. Looking at the connections for the fuse, I can see one side was damaged. I figured I could pull the connector out from the back and fix the connector, but when I took the back off (see picture) I have a purple wire (labeled 1) going to one side of the fuse and a multi-connector (labeled 2) from one wire going to the other side. My luck, it's the multi-connector side that is damaged.
It Looks like the multi-connector goes to the Black and yellow wire. Instead of replacing the box, I figured I could just create an inline fuse for the fuel pump with the purple wire and splice it into the Black/yellow wire.
I can't see any problem with this, just looking for a second opinion. And I'm not sure how it would effect the relay. I can't find a fuse panel wiring diagram anywhere.
On my class C motor home, 1999 with V10 engine when I turn the ignition key to the start position I get absolute silence, when I release the key and turn it to the start position again it always starts. I have fitted a new starter motor, new solenoid and new battery but still the problem persists. I'm scared that one time it will not crank over on the second attempt.
View 10 RepliesI just got a new-to-me 2007 4.0L Explorer . When I turn the ignition to the on position, I get a message that says "Check charging system"...
Once I start the engine it goes away. Is this normal?
My battery reads 12.6 with the engine off and 13.8 with it on.
What would cause the air bag fuse to blow as soon as I turn on the ignition?
Have tried replacing the fuse and this happens (fuse blows out) each time.
95 3.8L... nearly fully rebuilt.
The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
View 5 RepliesIt's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
View 4 Replies