Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Idles Rough And Seems To Lack Power
Dec 28, 2014
I am working on a 97 4.6 with 146k for a friend. It idles rough and seems to lack power (then again a 4.6 lacks power )
Has New:
plugs
wires
coil packs
fuel filter
sea foam intake
sea foam fuel
I have checked:
proper egr function
vacuum leaks
cleaned IAC
steady 17-18 in vac
clean air filter
cats do not seem to be getting too hot.
no codes
KOEO test ok
KOER test ok
The plugs worked some. Dirty MAF, clogged cats??
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
View 9 Replies
I have a 2003, 4.6 F-150 with 201,500 miles
I am having some A/C issues. It's just too hot out there.
#1 The truck has a lack of power when I have the A/C on. It feels like it wants to stall out in the lower RPM's. I loose power when I go 65mph+. The truck actually stalled on me yesterday in the parking lot. I turned off the A/C and it ran fine.
#2 I have to go over a 5000ft pass daily, I turn off the A/C when I go over it. Below the pass, the A/C doesn't work well and it's not as cold. But when I get over the pass, the A/C turns very cold. The pass is like a 3-4 mile stretch.
View 2 Replies
So my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
View 9 Replies
2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
View 1 Replies
I just bought a 2000 expedition 4.6 EB.. Just like an f150 same principles apply. Here's the issue, it has 284k miles. I realize its probably just tired and worn out but it just doesn't have any torque it seems. If you punch it above 60 it barely creeps up the speedo, my 00 f150 4wd with the same engine about same mileage was way stronger. My only code currently is P1151 dealing with the o2. Plugs are new coils and most all else is probably old. Just wondering if something is wrong and not throwing code or if its just a tired engine in a heavy vehicle?
View 8 Replies
My 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 MCV36R Camry SPortivo, Australian spec. Have owned it for 12 months. Have had power issues.
Replaced:
plugs
fuel filter
O2 sensors (engine)
MAF sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Have checker EGR valve - all looks good
Have coded OBD II, no codes coming up
Current issues are:
Flat spots from 1000rpm to approx 3000 rpm (esp on gear change from 1st to second)
Once flat spot stop, it powers up enough to throw you back in your seat.
Also, rough running when sitting on constant speed, esp bad between 65-85 Km/h.
Have recently done a 800km trip. half way through, isolated the EGR valve. Running probs have improved greatly, but still lacks power.
View 5 Replies
I've got an 03 f250 superduty and a few weeks ago i was driving home pulled to the side of the road to get a phone call and my truck sounded like it was misfiring and started to shake very rough so i quickly got it home and it barely made it up hills with no power at all, took it to the mechanic and he said it was my wiring harness, so i replaced it and it took weeks to get here and i finally get it in and my truck still seems to be misfiring ad idling very rough, I replaced my oil less then 1000km ago and I've had 2 injectors replaced. I've talked to a few diesel mechs and he recommended to put some hot shots in it.
View 14 Replies
So this is reason #345 why I should never have let my wife drive my F-350. I am in the Army, and I got a frantic call from my wife (I missed the first 7) saying that the truck died and won't start. I drive all the way to the truck, pop the hood and discover:
1) there is no coolant; and
2) there is no oil (actually just EXTREMELY low on both).
So, I do what any good Soldier does, I push the truck all the way back home (downhill mostly), buy 5 quarts of oil and a jug of 50/50 coolant, fill up both and try to start the engine.
The last time it ran out of oil (small leak on a seal that I didn't know about) in 2006, all I had to do was fill the oil, turn the key, and press the gas until it kicked over (don't judge me, I was a dumb LT). I did this again this time (now, I am a dumb CPT) but now it: 1) idles very rough; and 2) won't start unless I press down on the gas when I turn the key. There is no gauge light when it does this. I read the thread on the UVCH, but I am concerned I might have done something horrible to my truck.
2003 Ford F-350 7.3L
View 6 Replies
2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
View 6 Replies
2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
View 14 Replies
On Tuesday morning I was watching an auction on my computer and saw a 2003 Ford F350 Super Duty Crew Cab Fx4 with 200K on it. It had an inspection report which is *supposed* to note every cosmetic and mechanical issue. It had nothing listed wrong with it for mechanical. I "won" and for my prize I get a rough-running 6.0 diesel delivered.
I just got off the phone with the transporter who picked it up today and he said there are no check engine lights but it is running rough with no power. So I am having him drop it off at a diesel repair shop.
Hopefully it is just something with the wiring harness but I have a feeling it's got at least a few bad injectors so I am probably screwed.
View 14 Replies
Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
View 14 Replies
My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
View 5 Replies
Well today I have moved on to the next project on my 02 v6 4X4 Santa Fe, which is the rough running. When I got the car, it had CEL with codes for misfire #5 and lean condition codes. I noticed the wires were in need of replacement (one had black tape wrapped around it) so changed the plugs and wires. The 2 hoses, one that goes between the valve covers on the pass side and the hose between the valve cover and throttle body on driver side were both cracked so replaced them along with a few other vacuum lines, just because I had access to them. Cleared the codes and it still runs like crap, but after 112 miles, town and highway driving, there are no CEL codes. When its first started it idles at 1500 and sounds like its missing and has very little power going down the road. When it warms up seems to run a bit better but still nowhere close to what it should. Equal compression on all 6 cylinders and has power to all 6 injectors and tested to be sure there was a pulse to them as well. Coil packs all tested well. the exhaust is in bad shape and don't know if that would have any effect on how its running.
View 6 Replies
I have a 97 grandam 3.1 The engine idles rough but runs fine when you give it the gas. It shows no codes.
View 6 Replies
My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
View 14 Replies
I have a 06 sonata 3.3L v6. I have been having misfire problems and lack of power under 2000 rpms and at idle when I am either a stop or just warming the car. What is happening I feel it shake and feel the misfire but after it gets up after 2000 rpm at highway speeds its completely fine. It struggles getting up to speed if i press on the accelerator. I have changed the spark plugs and all the ignition coils maybe about 2 months ago, I have also have changed the camshaft position sensor for the rear bank. I believe that it could be the crankshaft position sensor but I want to make sure....
Obd2 codes: p300,301, 303, p0012, p0011, p0014,
View 1 Replies
Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't work in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be hard up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph.
At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor.
Regardless of which spring I put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.
View 14 Replies
