I have a 2002 F150 super cab with the 5.4 liter v8. I hit a large water puddle on my way to work Tuesday. I was going faster than I probably should have been. After hitting the puddle the truck lost power. It idles fine but as soon as I put it in gear it sputters and has no power. Also, the O/D drive light is now flashing. What might be going on with it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 01 f-150, 4.6L, with 160k miles on it. Symptoms: It idles fine with an occasional surge. It sputters in all gears like a misfire (all plugs and COPS replaced 2 months ago). Sometimes it stalls out going down highway or as I turn in my driveway. It also seems like its slipping a little without the "hard jerking into gear". Occasionally the rpm meter will peg low and then return to normal.
The only code that I received was P1451. I changed the canister vent solenoid but the symptoms remain. I've checked voltage on the TPS (the variable voltage checked out but I didn't get the 5V ref. voltage). I've cleaned the MAF sensor. I've also changed the fuel filter. I've resistance checked the connector to the PCM and found several pins that are at ground. I'm not sure what to do next.
1999 f150 5.4 it's been over 3 months since It happened I hit a pretty big mud hole and right after it starts bogging and running rough and won't drive I made it home and second and I've been driving it around town in second gear since. I've been trying different things since it happened, It runs rough in drive, reverse, neutral, and first (towing gear) but revs up just fine in second (towing gear).
So far I've
- Checked all fuses
- Changed plugs checks coil packs
- Dropped pan changed tranny fluid and filter
I broke a heater core line so I replaced the intake manifold and got a good look at everything and cleaned it out
- Cleaned throttle body
- Checked all connections
- Checked all vacuum hoses
- Replaced maf sensor
- Pulled the codes but I don't have them handy.
1999 Olds Alero with 2.4 L engine...
Everyday when I back out of my parking spot, there is a large puddle of antifreeze under the car, mid point near the firewall. I have to add 1 liter of antifreeze a week/100 kms. I am thinking it is a "low pressure" leak, cause when it is running, there is no major spray noticeable. Weird. So I have done some reading and can only guess that it is my water pump that is shot.
After getting the estimate from the local garage of $ 700.00 (mostly labour) for a $ 100.00 water pump, I am going to tackle this one myself. Can't believe Oldsmobile did just a crazy thing like hiding the water pump so deep into the caverns on a 2.4L.
I am not overly concerned with this bigger puzzle, but want to be sure before I get it all apart and tie up the prime spot in the garage called the "wife's parking spot". Got to get it in and out quick. Will I need any specialty tools, for things like removing the timing gears or anything else that is goofy on this repair job.
I have a large puddle of water under the spare tire. This happened a couple of months ago and I took the car to the dealership. They said it was a seam above the rear tail light that wasn't properly sealed. They re-sealed. I checked it every couple of weeks and no water but heavy rain over the past few days (car sitting) I decided to check again and there is more water than previously noticed. It looks like it's dripping down the side of the spare-wheel area.
First noticed at 1300KM now again @ 17000 KM Elantra 2013 GT GLS....
I have a 2005 Prius. I came home the other day and parked the car in the garage. I came back out the next morning to find a large puddle of water in the garage and the car still dripping. The drip is from the PS front bumper area just ahead of the front PS wheel. This is not the typical AC water puddle; we have two Prius so I am familiar with that one. I searched here and found a few threads on water pump issue but the description did not quite match what I have going on.
View 7 RepliesSo my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
View 9 RepliesMy 1999 F150 Supercab has developed a water leak which I would like to ask your opinions on. Parked on a 20 degree incline during a pouring rain yesterday, I came out to find a small puddle in the driver's side rear floor corner and about an ounce of water pooled in a little lip at the bottom of the rear window in the right corner of the window! Haven't started tearing anything apart yet (and might not be able to myself), but it seems that it is possibly the rear window seal as the window and the outside body area appear to be in good shape otherwise (no visible rust, no seal obviously dislocated, etc).
Also, don't know if it's related, the other day I jacked up the truck with a floor jack under the front crossmember but a bit off center which caused the truck to twist a bit before both wheels came off the ground. While doing this, I heard and felt a loud bang like something broke in the frame! Couldn't see anything out of place and something similar has happened before where a lug of the jack cup had shifted slightly while jacking the vehicle and it caused a loud bang to be heard, but this time it didn't quite feel like it was at the jack but further back.
Could something have "broken" in the truck that I can't quite see and thus this leak has occurred which wasn't there previously or could it just be coincidence that the bang and leak occurred so close in time to each other. I know it's hard to diagnose something like this without seeing the vehicle or really know what happened but I just had to put it out there as part of the events that occurred within the timeline for this leak.
Hit a puddle-now car is stuck in 3rd gear... with parking brake fault light lit up. How to fix it? it happened on the highway on the way to work at 70mph . so now i either have to drive home with it the rpms at 4k or get it towed. Car is a 2006 passat with 35000 miles.
View 5 RepliesSo my aunt has a 2002 ford f150 king ranch 5.4l and a night ago it started this problem which when you put it in drive which she has to put it in 2nd for it when she pushs on the pedal it will rev up to 2500rpms than jerks and goes and its usely fine till she stops than goes and it does it again...
Than today it wouldn't even go in anything but reverse... So than we herd about the Range Sensor on the side of the transmission and it seems like it was it so I unplug it when it was running and when i push on the pedal and it revs up to 2500rpms it will go forward and have power. So we went to get a new range sensor after like 4 hours trying to get the dam thing off and another 2 to get it back on.. I started it up and only reverse works again... So I unplug the harness to it again and we got the gears but 1st and 2nd will just rev and go.
We at a lost right now i even tighten the shift screws under the dash cause our expedition was loose at one time and the gear shifter was loose like hers. But even tighten the bolts it still don't fix the looseness or even the gears.. Is this a transmission problem? OR even the torq covertor?
I'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
I have a 1988 accord LX with 225K miles. 2 or 3 days ago I noticed a very large puddle of tranny fluid under the car. Upon inspection, the fluid is coming out of the tranny case above the shift cable. The spot looks almost like something has punched through from the inside, but the car drives ok...
View 1 RepliesWife came home and said that her brake peddle went to the floor once. Truck is in the garage with a large leak of brake fluid on the ground. I ordered a new MC but not sure this is the issue. There is fluid on only the right side of the booster, all associated brake hoses and lines going into the ABS module. The module also has lots of brake fluid all over it. Looks like there has been a leak for a while. Only one flare nut coming from the MC was some what loose (I gave it about a quarter turn and it's tight now.
Booster has some rust on the front of it near the center of the MC bolt locations. Before I put this new MC on I want to be sure this is the issue. Do the ABS modules tend to leak OUT when they are failing? I see that's a common issue with the Hyundai but I don't see anything about fluid leaks externally.
The truck has about 180k miles on it. I was thinking of cleaning everything up the best I can adding some fluid and running it to see where the leak is coming from...
2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
My 03 Corolla S - 5 Speed has developed a sound while driving, only when giving it gas. The sound goes away when I press in the clutch. It doesn't make any unusual sounds while parked and idling.
The sound, sounds like a knocking noise. At least to me that's what it sounds like. My car has 156k miles on it.
The car idles fine, rpm's are good on while driving, temps good and still gets really good gas mileage.
Does it have something to do with my clutch, since the noise goes away when I take my foot off the gas, or press the clutch in?
Is there something I should be checking? All my fluids are good, brake/clutch, oil, transmission fluid, radiator, etc.
Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
I own a 98 f-150 5.4 with 70,000 miles. I get a check engine light (code p0455-large leak detected in evaporative emission control system).
Replaced the gas cap with an after market 'stant' ( I believe was the manufacturer) brand. The check engine light went away for 4 days then came on again.
No obvious vacuum line leaks.... Puzzled.
My 2007 V6 Escape 'sputters' at 30-40 MPH and sometimes at idle with moderate pressure on gas pedal. Only happens when car is warm, never in first 5 minutes. Check engine light is not on, no codes found. Thought it might be transmission, had it serviced to no avail. Tried Techron injector cleaner, no improvement. Increasing or decreasing pressure on gas pedal clears up problem momentarily.
View 2 RepliesMy Rodeo stalled after hitting a nice sized rain puddle on Friday. It was mainly on the passenger side. This happened to me about 10 months ago and I had it towed to a repair center and was told it was the timing belt. Few days and $600 later i got vehicle back. Ran fine till this puddle. Is it possible this could be the timing belt again? All the research I have done has not said this was an option. I need diagnosing this problem. The vehicle has been sitting for a few days and will crank but not turn over.
View 1 RepliesSo I am relatively new to diesel engines! I have a f250 6.0L, that every now and again sputters and idles rough, when the ac is off? Yes I did say off. It's only done this twice, but when I turn the ac on it goes away and runs fantastic. Not sure what could cause this, and think it's a little weird that it's not consistent. Sometimes I run it without ac and it's fine, but this has happened twice now, so I thought it might be worth figuring out.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 f150 5.4L that will drive normal and all of a sudden it will spit and sputter, the CEL comes on for a second or two, then it’s all over and its back to running normal. I changed the plugs, and fuel filter and it still does it periodically. Vacuum leak?
View 4 Replies